ejtaylor822

Very nice! Yes, that SC4 is great blank.

These work well too.... http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_66598_100004000_100000000_100004000_100-4-0 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_58449_100002007_100000000_100002000?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT I keep a bag or two of these around and like the best. Simple and easy and have available for customers who don't want a hook keeper on the rod, but then decide might be nice to have something. Keeps the hook held and out of the way. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44434_100010010_100000000_100010000?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT

Very, very nice. Love the work between the splits. Guarantee he will love it. Even more so because its from his Dad.

Was great night. One of the best UFC's in a while. I don't have a problem with Hendo's last hit. Don't like it when guys get pounded like that, but I go back to when I started playing football and one of the first things you learn is go 100% until the whistle blows. Or in this case, until the ref stops it. Just the nature of contact sports. How many times have we seen guys that look like they are out, only to damage the other guy - I'll give it though, Bisping was OUT! As far as Lesnar, I understand he was still amped up, but that was very low class getting back in Mir's face. Reminds me of something Tyson would do towards the end. Totally low class. However, I had more of a problem with Lesnar not touching gloves at the beginning. That's just a showing of respect to your opponent. To turn your back is beyond a lack of class. Do I like Lesnar? Don't know. He makes it hard to like and respect him. I think he has a ton of God given athletic ability. To me he is as much a gifted athlete as GSP - not saying they are the same - just both have extraordinary athletic ability. I just wish Lesnar would drop the WWE crap and focus on being a competitor instead of an "entertainer". Don't know what's ahead for GSP in his class. Man that guy is amazing. He and Silva would be good. I might have to lean towards Silva though.

Been a great one so far. Hendo put it on Bisping. I don't think Bisping still knows what happened. Best UFC have seen in forever and the Main event is just now starting.....

Just saw where Kimbo was going to be on TUF next season. http://mmacity.com/2009/06/16/tuf-10-fighters-confirmed/ THAT should be interesting! The guy is brutal and a natural born fighter, but, the MMA events I have seen of him he just does not seem to have the endurance or "skills" needed for MMA. Toe to toe he's one of the best, but, on the ground is weak. Should be interesting. He might be the only one that could eventually challenge Lesnar.

Sure this has happened to others but was a first for me. Couple of evenings ago was out throwing a big Sammy. The dragon flies were out, some big whopper flies at that, buzzing around as usual but not getting too close or being a nuisance. I go to side arm a long cast, and at about 20 feet out - BAM - mid-air collision with a huge dragon fly. The Sammy slows down but continues on course. The dragon fly drops like a rock. It laid on top of the water and didn't move. After a min or two started twitching and making a little racket - this was a big one. Figured it might call some up so I let it twitch a while and then started casting out past and walking the Sammy back. A few attempted to hit the fly but never got it. After several casts finally got a hit on a pretty nice 2 lb'r. Just wish I had called it Got me thinking. Anyone else want to share what they've knocked out of the air? Eddie

Chuck - that is very cool. So, the video is for a real tourny? That sounds like fun. Very creative.

The best way I have found to remove a tip-top is to get a paper clip and bend out the ends so you have the "bends/hooks" on each end. Put one bend through the ring in the tip-top and the other ring through a rubber band. Attach the rubber band to something to hold it - I have a hook in the wall in my shop. Put the rod on something so that it is elevated and can be moved easily; I use my V-blocks. Now, pull on the blank with one hand so you have good strong tension on the tip-top and stretching the rubber band. With the other hand, apply heat - I use either a lighter or my alcohol burner. Put the flame right under the ring - don't need to heat the tube. This way you heat only the metal tip top and not the blank. As soon as the tip-top/glue is warm enough, the tip-top slides right off as slick as can be. Only takes a few seconds and the beauty is the tip-top and glue take all the heat and the blank never gets heated. It's simple and works perfectly every single time. Be sure to crimp the ends of the paper clip and wear eye protection. I have never had a top go flying, just usually slaps the wall, but all it takes is once to mess up your eyes - better safe than sorry. Eddie

That looks good! Keep up the good work! Eddie

Thanks all for the kind words and compliments on this. Was truly an honor for me. Eddie

Glad you like it. Was an honor for me to build. Thank you for defending this great country of ours for 22 years. Now, get off the computer and go fishing! Eddie

Like cidgrad96 said, start with Kirkman's book. It's about the best you can find. Also, there is a TON of great information on the web. Google "rod making" and enjoy - you will spend the next several hours going through just a portion of these. Also, I think it was Mudhole that may have some video tutorials on rod making on their site. For starting out you can make your own rod wrapper. I made mine literally from scrap lumber I stashed in the garage. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1204259464/0#0 I made it with the anticipation of being temporary and buying something nicer if I really got into rod building. I still use it and every rod I have ever built has been wrapped on it. Have no intention of replacing. The only modification is that I now use alligator clips for thread tension on the springs. You can get a dryer motor off ebay for about $20, or, I noticed recently that Mudhole now has a nice selection of motors. Adding to what cidgrad96 said, starting with a kit is a good idea. You get all the components and they are matched pretty good. However, what you usually get are the components and not a lot, if any instructions. Another option, that might save a few $$$ is to go with: - Mudhole OEM blank - Fuji Alconite guide set (BLNAG-129 (casting) or BYAG-309 (spinning) for 6'-7'rods) - BFAT top with a size 6 ring to match the guide set-tube size will have to be sized to match blank - Handles & reel seat (St. Croix has some nice ones where all you have to do is ream-otherwise select your cork grips and a Fuji TCSD-17 reel seat - my preference) - FlexCoat lite build kit (w/ syringes) for finishing guide wraps - 4 oz kit will work. Drill 5/32" hole (assuming have not changed) in the caps, insert syringes, turn the bottle upside down and load up. Keep the syringes in the cap for storage and get perfect measurements every time. - brushes for applying finish - hobby quality are fine - Size "A" thread for guide wraps - I prefer Gudebrod - razor for trimming thread wraps - good file for shaping guide feet - Medium size reamer - Devcon 2-ton or equivalent for attaching grips and reel seat to blank - can also use for tip top. (I prefer Rod Bond and flexcoat tiptop glue, but, 2-ton will work fine.) You can get by without a drying motor if you apply thin coats (yes multiple for best look) of finish. Once finish is applied, leave with the guides up (just my habit for a reference point) for 7 mins and wipe off excess on the bottom - lightly touching the "drooping" finish and not touching the blank - if I got it on too heavy. After that I turn a quarter turn every 4 minutes. After half hour or so, just have to watch and see how its setting up, can turn every 15 mins. After an hour to an hour and a half, can let sit, but, once again need to watch how it is drying. Hope this helps. Eddie

michaelkim_9582, whether you build with 2 extra micros or 3 (a difference of one guide and grams of weight), bottom line, order a couple extra AND as originally stated: The point to my statement is to order extra. if you order 9 and then determine you really need 10 (or 11, 12, etc.), well your shipping could cost more than the guide(s) and your build will be delayed - been there and done that. Once again, the blank will dictate how many are needed during stress and cast testing - following the curvature of the blank under stress (stress distribution) and straightest line during casting. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Eddie

Cork vs. EVA - depends on the application and use. All things being equal/negligible, well, IMHO, comes down to preference. Cork offers more of a traditional look and feel that most folks are use to. It is also much liter and easier to shape. However, good quality cork - without a lot of defect - is expensive and getting harder to find. Cork gets slippery when wet. EVA is a whole lot less expensive, has more options for a true custom look and to me is actually easier to shape. EVA is more dense so its heavier and can alter the sensitivity, but, this is typically negligible. Unlike cork, when EVA gets wet its actually easier to hold. Once again though, IMHO, have to look at application. When working with folks to build a rod the grip material is an important consideration. For fly rods and ultralites a good quality cork is hard to beat (except for foam but some can't get past the look of cork). For surf and boat rods its EVA. Outside of these it is all user preference - weight, look, feel, etc. A good option, and I use it on about 80% of my fresh water builds (non fly) is burl cork. You get the benefits for both cork and EVA in one material. The cost is reasonable, quality is consistent, easy to shape/work, lots of color and design choices, and easy to hold when wet. The down side is that is heavier than cork - closer to EVA - and very dense. For shaping EVA, I use an inverted belt sander in a jig with 120 grit paper. Just seems to shape better with a lateral motion than circular. I then smooth up by hand working my way up to 600 grit. I love working with grained EVA. Cutting split grips with/without a foregrip, shaping then matching up gives a rod a unique one of a kind look - picture attached below. Microguides, no question saves weight and adds to the function of the rod by allowing the line to more closely follow the action and curvature of the blank. But, once again, comes down to application and usage - including the line weight. If you will NEVER be using a leader and/or passing knots, micros are an advantage. However, if will be using leaders, or the blank has a very slow action, or a thick line, micros could work against you. Test casting will tell you how it will perform. Also, keep in mind that for micros to be REALLY effective you have to use more. The "rules" of thumb don't necessarily apply, need to tape up (tubing is easier though), stress test and get the line to follow the blank. The old adage about number of guides = len + one does not apply. It typically goes len + a min of three. The blank will dictate how many are needed. Eddie

flechero, that looks great. Thanks for taking the time to explain and sharing with everyone. Great idea . BTW, please post some pics of that rod when you are done. Eddie

Thanks guys. Was truly a privilege to build this one.

Hadn't posted in a while so though I would show a special rod just finished up. I had the privilege and honor of being asked to build a rod for a retirement gift. The rod was for a retiring Marine after 22 years of service to our country. Stuck with his favorite color - green - and used throughout the rod. The rod is built upon a Castaway 7' fast action med power blank. Used Fuji Alconite guides (black) and fuji reel seat. Wrapped in green and did not CP so the tread would go translucent and blend with the blank. Didn't go with a foregrip just to keep a sleek look. Made up the butt and rear grips with a very lite green burl in the middle and burnt (dark) burl on the edges. Wanted to do something special so added a tiger wrap in green to give it a special look and keep with the color theme. Sure hope he likes it.....

Krylon fusion. It's dry in an hour or so, but, I would give it a least a day before handling and flexing. Eddie

Looks good - great work! You have found one of the benefits of the micro-guides with the reduced weight. Love the look you have on those rods. Eddie

I haven't used the Batson's but a lot of people love them because of the higher ring is easier to work with finish and keeps the line off the blank better. However, I have used the fuji 4's quite a bit of late and found that as long as thin coats are used is not a problem. I like the longer foot of the fuji. My advice: try a couple a couple of each and see what you like, then, let us know your results . Eddie

That looks nice - very nice job. You should be proud of that.

As I've said, I'll throw a hook in a mud puddle if there is a chance of getting a bite. Love to fish for it all - bass, bluegill, trout, crappie, mullet, reds, flounder, mackerel, blues, cats, carp - whatever I can find in the rivers, lakes, ponds, streams and coast here in NC.

Love the show. !!!! SPOILER ALERT !!! kinda..... Liked it last night after Michael finished the hard negotiation and he looked at David and Charles and told them "Our b@ll$ are in your court." Another memorable Michael Scott quote.

Was this in a car, laying in the sun, etc., when this happened? Usually if the epoxy/adhesive melts there will be some leaks. Do you see any? Othewise, I might be thinking the reel seat is loose and has moved. Can you move it now at all now? If it has melted, moved and hardened, you can use a heat gun to soften it back up again and reposition. If it is loose, several things can do. Can remove reel seat (and of course grips) and re-glue, or, can get some syringes (http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Rod-Building-Supplies/Flexcoat-3CC-Color-Coded-Syringes-Set-of-2), drill holes in the reel seat to fit syringe tip and inject more epoxy in them. Obviously not as good as removing and reglueing, but will should stop it from moving and last a while. Eddie