bassbassontherange

You, sir, are living the life.

I don't agree with that assessment. Most people I know with I series shimanos prefer them over their e's. The G's may not have been an improvement, but they did cost less. It seems to me Shimano listened to their customers and IMO really stepped their game up. Their newer reels cost more, but I think they're worth it.

Very true that you can catch huge fish with spinning gear. I can't say for sure because I don't know, but I'd guess he uses spinning setups because he's most comfortable with them. To each they're own and no argument from me about what someone's happiest with or has the most confidence in. However, for someone who is curious why to try casting gear, I wouldn't factor one lunker specialist in my decision. Look at the people making their living catching lmb and smb. They use almost all casting gear because it offers advantages over spinning. That doesn't mean you'll like it better though. For me, fishing is about enjoyment. If you're the same, do what you get the most fun out of, and continue to have an open mind about new methodologies. Getting better also means having more fun for me.

For me, and I use both baitcasters and spinning reels, I couldn't imagine doing a majority of my fishing with a spinning setup. The added control you have by thumbing a baitcaster on casts makes all the difference in the world to making the right cast, especially under difficult conditions. You also have more control fighting fish by thumbing. In addition, there's much added sensitivity by palming a baitcaster and/or having a finger on the line coming into the reel. Some people say spinning gear is best for light presentations. I think there are more spinning reels geared towards that simply because baitcasters get expensive for finesse applications, but you can find heavier duty spinning gear as well. Typically though, you'll have more cranking power with casting gear. These may all seem like small things, but to me they're huge. I really only use spinning gear when I have to, which if I had to guess I'd estimate at around 1-2% of the time. If you're committing to trying to use a baitcaster, don't get a "cheap" reel! This is in my opinion the primary reason some people try it out and don't get the hang of it. If I was starting out, I'd pick up at least something like an Abu Black Max or a Lew's Laser. They're decent and not bad for getting the hang of things. A good reel will have a better brake system and bearings, which will make learning to cast soooo much easier. I'd use a reel like that (or better if you can afford it) on a decent MH or M rod. I'd start with mono 12lb ish line with a heavier, aerodynamic lure at first. You'll get the hang of it in no time. I learned to bass fish on spinning gear, like you, but made the switch when I was about 10. I'm sure that made things easier on me, but I could never ever go back knowing what I know now. Some people are perfectly fine with spinning setups. They really can do anything you want them to do. But it's kind of like tightening a bolt with a crescent wrench. A socket set would make your job a lot easier. To me, a good baitcaster is the best tool for the job.

I haven't owned an sx, but I hear they're pretty decent reels. I've owned a couple MGX's and I really enjoy them. I think if DVT were to chime in he'd probably tell you they're pretty decent reels, and that they're very similar to the reels at similar price points from many other popular manufacturers not named Shimano or Daiwa. That's because Lew's, Abu, Quantum, some BPS stuff among others all fall under the Doyo umbrella... same parts, similar schematics, same factory and assembly lines. That's not to say they're bad reels, just similar. I'll say based on my own personal experiences I really like some of the high end reels from Doyo manufacturers (like the MGX) and I like a couple one offs like the Tournament MB from Lew's. Also based on my experiences, I think Shimano and Daiwa are pretty much guaranteed to give you excellent long term performance. I'm not sure about how the other brands will hold up in comparison, but so far so good on some of the newer stuff. Older reels, like 1st generation revo's, have poor reputations depending on who you talk to. I find myself trying everything I can, and usually sticking with Shimano in the end for almost every single price point. Daiwa is very good as well, I just prefer Shimano. Just one man's opinion.

The tmb is a nice little reel (I love its small profile), but the tolerances and build quality seem more solid on the Tatula. Both are very good reels. Go with what feels best on the rod you plan on using. For what it's worth though, if you're looking for an all purpose reel, I'd also consider either a Curado or Citica I. In my opinion, either will slightly out perform the other two you're considering.

Some guys still like the E's, and I don't blame them. They are fantastic reels, but the I's are better. Not necessarily smoother, but they're better casters in my hands, have more cranking power, and seem more solidly built. I also really like the knobs they use on the Curado I's. I wish Shimano would use those with all their reels. I consider myself an enthusiast, so I own reels from most manufacturers from the highest end to around the $100 price point. For my money the Citica/Curado I's are one of the best values you can find. On the 70 Curado, I don't see any real difference in performance between them and the 200's. I think for a smaller, lighter profile they're nice, but not necessarily a better reel. There's definitely not as much difference between the 70i's and 200i's as there was between the 50e's and 200e's to me. Part of that is all the aftermarket support the e's had, and that's probably coming for the i's, so I may change my mind later. It would be great to see what a 70 could do as a finesse platform with a shallower, lighter spool. All in all though, buy one if you don't have one. They're fantastic reels for their price point.

I'd one up this and say any plastic where you depend on a good falling action from the lure. If you use weightless braid OR mono or a combo of both, it doesn't matter. The bait will just fall backwards, looking completely unnatural. FC, when I started using it for this application, greatly increased the number of finesse bites I got.

Wichita probably has more good neighborhood ponds than any city I know of. For a shore fisherman who had friends in the suburban neighborhoods, Wichita is excellent. The public waters are average at best... Watson, kdot, and zoo (s co) parks have some decent bass but they can be hard to get to. The neighborhood ponds are where it's at. They're almost all loaded, and this time of year into post spawn you can find them on the beds with ease. Another place that I've caught some really nice bass, up to five pounds, is wading in the "big ditch". I always parked on the central street bridge and moved north for about a half mile. There's a nice channel on the west side that gets about five to six feet deep when the flow is normal. It's right next to the weeds and trees. Some nice fish there. I had to move away about ten years ago, and didn't realize at the time how great Wichita actually was for bass fishing. Look at Google maps sometime. There are more ponds in Wichita than ANYWHERE within 300 miles. Based on my experience though, you should really find a way in to the neighborhood ponds. That's where the best fish are.

I noticed that and called ebay. They said if the item isn't as stated, the customer doesn't have to pay return shipping and ebay will refund you the cost of shipping and purchase price. There's really no risk from what I can tell other than it being a pain in the butt when it in all probability isn't what's listed. EDIT: The listing was just removed. That can't be good haha.

I already feel less intelligent for taking a flyer on this... we'll see. If it's rice, I hope it's some darn good rice. Only thing they've ever sold, and a bunch have already sold at this point. Seems calculated to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252354925648?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT $30 for a $700 unit? It's from China... second red flag. No feedback on seller, third red flag. I can't imagine this is real, but doesn't paypal protect you if it isn't? I can't see how someone could benefit from trying to scam here.

I'm late here but I'll chime in anyway. 1st, return that reel. You paid way too much for that reel unless it's in outstanding condition. 2nd, I haven't seen anyone else say this yet, but your problems with a Curado I... I'm going to take a shot in the dark here and guess that your were getting a lot of noise while casting? The only people I've talked to that have had problems, they stem from noise. That's an easy one to fix and the reels even come with a little pamphlet telling you to oil the brake drum once in awhile. If this was your problem, get a Curado I. It's not actually a problem. Or get a Citica... I own both. They're identical in performance. If that wasn't your problem, tell us what it was. Excellent resources on this site. Good luck.

If I can add a #4... Better action on baits--I started using fluoro originally for weightless plastics. I think if you're going to get a fall action right on something like a wacky rigged senko, fluoro is a MUST. I definitely noticed more bites on weightless plastics once I made the switch. Eventually, I moved over to fluoro for almost all my fishing, save fishing heavy grass/pads, topwater, and fishing jigs in heavy cover. I leave that stuff to braid or mono. Everything else fluoro just seems to excel. Better depth, better action, great abrasion resistance, less stretch, more confidence for me, and I truly believe more fish caught in most cases. That's not to say you can't do it with the other lines. Obviously, you can, I just believe fluro is the best tool for the job in a lot of cases. It's your Mitre saw for angled cuts. You could use a table or circular saw, you're just going to get it right (or acute, or obtuse... okay not funny) more easily with the best tool.

Might be worth a lot more than two cents. Thanks for the advice.

They did, however it was sold out when you clicked on it. I guess I can call around. If anyone finds it someplace, I'd love to pick one up discounted.

I'm in the exact same boat as you, ksfishin. I don't really know what I'll gain or lose by the inclusion or exclusion of Chirp, but I'm also looking at the Striker and the Echomap 73sv. Bassman, that's a fantastic price. It's still $849.99 on their websites. I don't live near a store. Any idea where I can pick one up at that price?

IMO, the fewer rods you have, the more versatile your gear ratio should be. If you only have two or three rods, go with the 7.3.1. It'll allow you to do pretty much everything but deep cranking easily. Something like an 8.1.1 is what I'd more prefer for what you outlined, but you're going to have a harder time slowing down to throw slower baits, if you ever want to. Just depends on what you have already and your style of fishing. Both get the job done, but when you hook into that big bass running for the creek channel, you'll be glad you have a blazing fast reel to keep up.

Always fun picking up a new setup. Both about as solid as they come. Have fun on the water.

There's so much sarcasm in this thread I have no idea who's being honest and who's making a wise crack anymore.

There are a lot of offerings in JDM that can be had domestically as well. The Metanium is one of them, and I certainly endorse it. It's a phenomenal reel, but I'd go with the non DC to be honest. I think it's a slightly more versatile reel, definitely a longer caster, and the price difference makes it a no-brainer. However... to "dip your toe" I'd start with the Exsence DC from Digitaka. I am and most who own it are of the opinion that it's one of if not the best JDM value. It's basically a Chronarch D on DC steroids and some other modern tech upgrades like x-ship. For $250-260 you won't find a better reel, period. The Chronarch D, if you find one new, is 300-400 and used are going for just under that. This is the same platform, with faster gears and one of the best DC systems out there. I really hope others chime in on this who have owned this reel. It's something you can't buy domestically and embodies everything about JDM Shimano. It's cool, it's different than anything else out there, and it's an outstanding performer. If you don't like it, you can sell it for what you paid for it. Buy it soon though, they're about sold out from my understanding. Only downsides are it's only available in an 8.1.1 ratio and it's heaver than most new low profile reels. You'll get past that. I haven't met a soul who regretted buying one.

Haha. This is probably one of my favorite quotes on the forums. I can only imagine your thought process... "Wait, it's in... water? Like normal water? Umm... yeah it's fine."

Not trying to speak for everyone here, but the way I see it there are three main reasons to buy JDM. 1-Some reels aren't available in the USA, so if you want that reel, you have to buy it from Japan. 2-Some reels can be had cheaper if you buy from Japan because of the exchange rate. 3-Some models, like the US Curado and the JDM Scorpion are very similar, almost identical. BUT, the Scorpion sure looks cool, doesn't it? Enthusiasts, like myself, buy fishing stuff because it's just cool sometimes. There's no practical reason to buy a Scorpion over a Curado if they're both easily available, I just... want one, or five. As far as warranty goes, you're not going to be covered buy a warranty in the US if you buy JDM. That's fine with me since I take decent care of my stuff and have never had a single issue. If it's parts you need, you can still get them. Most Shimano reels are popular enough you won't have a problem with that.

That's just gorgeous. So many of those lakes in the Rockies, but not all of them have a glacier feeding them. Very pretty. The only thing I don't like is it's hard to find bass in any of them.

If you're ordering something under $200, your chances of paying a customs tax from Japan is zero. If you're ordering something under $2000, you're unlikely to pay customs unless it's an unusual item. Don't import some freaky Japanese doll with your reel and you'll be good. http://www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-import-export/internet-purchases From the US customs website.