MrBigFishSC

Making myself fish a jig. The technique is not so different than other bottom contact baits but I never seem to be able to fish one. I guess I'll have to go out with nothing else and throw my keys in the water so I can't leave.

A good BC reel and a good spinning reel are different. More attention has to be paid to a BC reel than spinning. There are lots of decent spinning reels available in the $60-$120 range while that isn't true for BC. Pflueger makes a good reel for minimum $60. Shimano makes a good reel for minimum $70. Below that you will find they just don't hold up. Of course you can go up from there based on your needs. My favorite and go to spinning reel is the Shimano Symetre which is $100. It casts well, is durable, and has a sufficient number of efficient bearings to deliver a smooth retrieve. Bail and handle are solid. You typically don't crank as much with spinning so you are looking for a smooth cast and retrieve with lighter line and weights.

To get back to the OP's question of how can I reduce the tag end line. You mention with larger baits you have more tag end with a Palomar knot. That's because you have to pull more tag end line through the eye based on the size of the bait. If you don't want that much tag end then switch to another knot. Since when is tag end length a sin?

I am not a statistician but your data should be converted into information a bit more thoroughly. First you should clearly define the knot tying process steps. Second you need at least 7 trials for all inputs. Third you should show the actual results with mean, median, and standard deviation. Fourth the outliers should be discarded and then the analysis in #3 ran again. Since there are no specifications you are just comparing one variable to another in this case the knot. From there you can determine which knot under your test conditions has the highest capability. Make sense?

Bingo... Go with a known brand if the price range is comparable. The Sahara is a good reel. I use one all the time with no problems. Private label sellers will change manufacturers to meet margin requirements. So they are basically disposable items. They just want the sale but no service or questions answered.

I get 3 types of bites with DS...loading up, loss of connectivity, and thumps. Thumps are not a big deal as this is similar to any worm presentation. Load ups and loss of connectivity are more common. Line sensitivity and paying attention are key for these two. I imagine he is getting better feel and thus can detect the bites sooner. once the fish inhales the bait you gotta react.

I use a 2500 Shimano Symetre reel. FC is either good to go or ready to scrap from the time of spooling. I spray line conditioner twice during the spooling. Spoil it tight and light (about 80% of capacity max). Pay attention to any problems and fix them right away. Of course the line must come off the line spool in the same direction as the reel spool rotation to prevent twisting. After spooling I spray lightly one more time and then it's good to go. Coiling or jumping off the reel spool is normally not a problem if spoiled right. I start of fishing it a bit easy for a few casts but once it's "trained" no worries. I don't find Sniper to be a problem at all.

That should read money can't buy fish but experience will pay dividends.

A perfect post to this thread. Good quality equipment will make it more fun and allow you to reach your potential. If you need more expensive then go for it. Money can't buy fish just experience. Same goes for most things in life.

Sniper 7# is also my favorite. I have to order from TW as its never stocked in SC anywhere I can find. If left to 6 or 8# I will use 8.

MLF Dobyns Savvy 6'9" is my weapon of choice for conventional drop shot. I only DS on this rod with a Shimano Symetre reel. If you don't have a setup yet I strongly suggest this.

Once you try a craw trailer you will be hooked so to speak. The craw creates an entirely different action because of the leg action and bulk. You can slow down the retrieve and still get the water displacement and wobble that you can't get with a slimmer profile trailer. In spring when the fish are fired up this isn't needed but at other times like dusk in summer around cover it's like fish crack.

Trailer is a must. For me the action is determined by the trailer. I'll use a speed craw, grub, or split tail and fish it faster with a steady retrieve in spring. Add a big craw trailer and slow it down to create a lot of action whether steady, rip and pause, or kinda yo-yo.

I also like and use the spin shot hooks to eliminate line twist. Mostly I use a #2 hook with a 1/4 oz tungsten weight. I think a #2 is the best overall size rather than a #1. I don't use a lot of minnow baits but have tried just about everything on a drop shot. I tend to go with 4" senkos or french fry worms but use the dream shot bait a lot as well. Prefer something that has good wiggle and action without a lot of shaking. I don't fish in 30 feet of water mostly 8-15 and the water has some color. Suggest picking up several types of baits and try them out. I always start by seeing the action in shallow water and then translating that to the deeper presentation.

In NC and SC fish between 1-3 lbs are common. 4-6 lb. fish are considered good. Anything 6-8lbs. is great and over 8lbs. is outstanding. There are always big fish you just gotta find them and get them to bite. They don't get big being stupid. Smaller BOWs in the spawn are key if you want to catch a PB.

I always get into trouble with line posts. Seems like I rub someone the wrong way every time. Anyway, mono is cheap and easy to spool. It doesn't have the abrasion resistance or sensitivity of fluoro but it's easier to cast. Use it for just about anything moving or surface. Just watch the wear if fishing around cover. Fluoro is stiffer and more dense than mono and sinks so it works well with deeper and bottom oriented presentations. Knots and castability are compromised somewhat so just pay attention to your knots and spooling. Braid is the most durable and casts well but you must tie leaders between it and most baits. It's the rage now so you can find any size and weight to accommodate. It floats so remember that when fishing bottom oriented presentations or deep cranking. I remember fishing a Creme worm on a spin cast 40 years ago slowly dragging it across the bottom. I didn't know line or anything then just how much fun it was to catch bass. Just have a good time and don't worry about your line.

I don't use house rods. That's not because I'm elitist just that I have good experience with certain makes and stick to them. You can always ask who makes the rod but rarely will you get a correct answer. There are a number of quality rods out there you just have to try and see. I can't stand to buy a rod then learn it doesn't fish the way I want or expect. Some people are junkies who need 20 setups. I prefer 6 that are top notch so I can enjoy fishing rather than compromising.

Thanks for the video. Mostly drop shot best practices were included. What key advantages do you see in the tube versus other baits and when do you reach for the tube?

Turkey Sandwich gave the same answers I would. I have found the drop shot to be very effective under these conditions. Fish tend to move deeper and want the bait in their face. These fish are catchable in my experience. I don't have the same success with fish holding tight to cover up shallow or around docks. They get lockjaw and it's very tedious to get a bite.

I have to agree that a couple of chatterbaits would be the first addition. Mix in a few jigs and a Spook.

Many of these are creek fed lakes. Look for the creek channel and where it runs. This is key structure especially during seasonal changes or in summer. Flats adjacent to the channel that contain cover are a bonus.

Shimano makes the best spinning reels IMO. The Symetre is a great reel for $100. The Sahara is a good reel for $80 have both and no complaints. Also have 2 Pfluegers that work well but I would buy Shimano.

Shimano makes the best spinning reels IMO. The Symetre is a great reel for $100. The Sahara is a good reel for $80 have both and no complaints. Also have 2 Pfluegers that work well but I would buy Shimano.

BPS PQ is a decent entry level reel. I have one on a M rod that I use quite a bit. It doesn't compare in cast ability and function to a Lews TSS. The cost difference is 20 bucks. Spend a little more and get the Lews.

Thanks for the polite rebuttal.I wasn't promoting FC so much as defending it against the OP's comment that it's out due to handling problems. If you spool it right and I think this is a problem for some people it's no more trouble than mono. I get good castability and better sensitivity and durability than mono. I don't fish braid as a rule and don't feel I am missing out on anything with finesse techniques. That said I might setup one rod with each and experiment. Line is so subjective that it's tough to make blanket statements. I would encourage the OP to try different types for himself and decide which he prefers.