Way2slow

Yep, nice thing about these forums, you always have someone that "THINKS" they know it all, and give their expert advise, Even though their advise is totally opposite of what the manufactors and engineers say. We are so blessed to now have the guru of battery gurus to rely on, that's what he is here for. The Optima link was not to show the OP, it was for what they had to say about R C. That are just numbers that don't mean anything. Ok, I lied, I made one more post. This is why I try to stay out of battery questions, I keep getting myself in trouble, which I guess, I do that with motors, boats , props, electrical, you name it. This old dumb redneck should know better by now.

Most any sign company's can cut what ever you want and it's not very expensive. I have my reg numbers custom cut. Looks a whole lot better than those bought book kits. GA says they have to be contrasting, nothing about ugly blocks.

What ever turns your crank. There's always someone with a better answer, and I've never claimed to be a guru, that's why I usually shy away from a lot of topics, batteries being one. I am totally dumbfounded to find out that the reserve minutes on a battery means absolutely nothing, they are just numbers. Not sure what happened to manufactures having to test and prove the RC capacity before they put it on the lable, because most want that (just a number) to be as high as they can make it. That's why see some use less than 25 amps to test, which is considered the standard by most. Anyway, I'm glad you have your s***t together and can give them the facts. However, I hope you don't mind if I have reservations about those facts. Just to make sure this does not make this topic go in the wrong direction if I ruffled feathers, I'm Out of it. By the way, I don't think optima agrees with you euther.http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/power-source/battery-reserve-capacity/

I personally will not run AGM's for a couple of reasons. First, they are about 1/2 again the price of a quality flooded cell battery. They typically have much less capacity (reserve minutes) of a similar size flooded cell battery. Most engine charging system are not designed for them and can actually cause very expensive failures of the charging system. Yes, they can deliver huge cranking amps, way more than needed for your outboard, but you need more than big CA numbers for most bass boats. The reserve capacity is also a critical number you need to look at. AGMs were designed to be used in places where servicing the battery on a regular basis or in some conditions where it was not practice to use flooded cell batteries. I also run a 225 Evinrude and yes, you need a quality battery because of the fact that if the battery will not hold a good voltage when cranking, the injectors are not going to fire, and it's dang hard to start a motor that doesn't have gas going in it. For years I have run nothing but the Deka group 31 dual purpose (made by EastPenn) for my cranking battery, and will continue so. EastPenn also makes BPS AGM's. I can actually get AGM's for not much more than flooded cells. I'm parcel to Deka because for one, I think they are the best battery made, and two, I get them wholesale, But I still won't run AGMs Now there are those that think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread, and that's what all their advertising is designed to make you think. I just know enough about them to know better, and I will say they have improved over the years so the charging system you use is not as critical, but to get max life from one you still need to use a high quality charger designed for AGM's. Oh, by the way, I don't consider Walmart and othr discount batteries quality batteries. I replace the cranking batteries in my boats and vehicles every three to four yeas max. Batteries are just too cheap for the problems a weak one can cause, even though I buy the biggest baddest one I can fit in. If I was running a Walmart battery I would make that every year. My neighbor likes me though, I keep his equipment pretty well furnished with batteries where he runs them when I swap them out.

I would suggest you find a local club you would like to join to start with. Then check with them on what their requirements are. That's the best way to get your feet wet, as the old saying goes. Open tournaments tend to be a lot more restrictive and can have some pretty high entry fees, probably something you are not really ready for yet.

I don't think the fish are going to check out your boat to see if it's a bass boat or not to decide whether or not they should take your lure. Yea, from the personal macho/ego aspect you want to show up in your 20'+ $50,000 bass rig in full wrap, with twin power poles on the back, $10,000 worth of electronics and a 1/2 dozen $500 rod & reel combos. Then at the end of the day have your butt handed to you on a platter by some guy in his little low budget Carolina Skiff. As long as you meet tournament rules, the fish ain't gonna give a crap about what kind of boat you have. Go, have fun and learn. You learn by doing, it. It can actually make you better because you don't have a 75 mph boat you can chase all over a lake with and those high dollar electronics. You learn to read the conditions, find and catch fish in what you have available.

I would recommend doing a search for outboard motor salvage yards. It has been a few years since I've dealt with any but there where a couple large ones in Florida and one in NC I used to deal with. The 18 and 25 are the same motors so I would not think a tiller handle Assy would be that hard of an item to find. I'm not at home and won't be for a couple of months so I can't look up the companies I've dealt with. Have you tried this one http://www.marinepartsoutlet.com/outboard_parts.htm

Yep you can fry a water pump in a heartbeat. Totally not recommended to start one dry.

I personally ONLY run top tier brand gasolines in my vehicles and boats. If you knew what this junk some of these discount stations sell was doing to your engine, you would give second thoughts about using it also. In my neck of the woods, I don't know of a place that's sells non ethanol gas. if your motor was built to run 10% ethanol, which I think most were for the last 10-15 years. The earlier ones that thought the were have found problems like some gasket material was not and some fuel lines gave problemsI but I don't overly concerned about it. I would be much more concerned about running a higher octane than the motor is rated for. Doing that actually creates more problems than that little bit of ethanol. It can actually hurt performance and increase fuel consumption. The higher the octane, the slower it burns, meaning you won't be getting a full burn on each firing stroke. It's also burns cooler. This leads to faster and heavier carbon build up which can cause particles to break loose. You know how hard carbon is, what do you suppose it's goiing to do to that much softer aluminum piston and cast iron sleeve when it gets between them and is going up and down several thousand times a minute. I've seen motors with 500 hours on them that ran cheap oil and gas they had more wear on them than some with 2000 hours that were properly run and maintained. For those that don't know, you should do a web search on what "Top Tier" gasoline is. It meets very high standards for burning clean and a few other things. I think Cheveron was the first, then A number others, like BP, Exxon, Cosco (believe it or not) and several others. I had to pull the intake and heads off a 1998 Lincoln Town Car with 69,000 miles, and tear the heads down just to clean the heavy tar like crud in the whole intake track. It had actually made a couple of valves stick and the push rod came out from under the rocker arm. An elderly woman mostly just drove it in town, and used cheap gas gasoline.

Sounds like the float levels might be off. The was a very common problem for The early 92 to 95 Johnson 3.0. About the only way to get it to idle smoothly was to trim it level. However, there are several other things but will need a more detailed info.

If you can move it manually, and it has hydraulic tilt and trim, the bypass valve has been opened. You are sure the motor is not running, it should make enough noise to hear it. However it will not move the motor with the bypass valve open.

Oh, I forgot to mention, I do keep one critical spare part that I have had to use on several occasions in the waters I fish. That's why the channel locks and screw driver, so II can change it. A PROP.

Depending on the year model, the trim motor is going to be a two wire or a three wire and it might be bad. What you hear clicking is most likely the relays that operates it. Next depending on age, the trim relays are under the cowling or in a separate box mounted in the boat on the transom. Not knowing what you have, I can only be very general with help. Follow the wire from the trim motor to where the connector is. If it's a two wire, connect a volt meter by sliding the pointed tips or a T-pin into the connector going in beside the wire. Make sure you get it in enough to contact the metal terminals. If using pins, you can just stick them through the wire. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTOR. Without a load, you may get lied to and it shows you have 12 volts that will go away as soon as a load is applied. If two wire, you should have 12 volts between them when you press the trim button and it should reverse polarity when you try trimming the other way. If it's a three wire, you will have a common, an up wire and a down wire. You have to check for voltage between the common and each of the other two, based on which way the switch is pressed. If you have voltage with these test, the trim motor is bad or the wire to the motor has gotten cut or broken. If you don't have it, you need to make sure you have it to the relays. It could just be a blown fuse. Now, I'm talking about a large 12ga wire, that runs the motor. Not the small wires that the switch is energizing the relay with. That is if the relays are clicking like you said. If not you need to chase the voltage on the control side.

If 90% of its use is going to be fishing, I would have make it a bass boat. I've skied, pulled skiers (even three at one time) pulled tubes and zip sleds behind mine. The only drawback is seating capacity. In Ga, you either have a spotter in the boat watching the skier, or a wide angle rear view mirror, not many places to mount a mirror. A fish and ski would be your next option. Never seen one of those the windshield wasn't in the way and have always thought they sucked as a fishing platform, but a bass boat can suck as a family boat. Also, you throw a couple of people in the boat and a big skier behind the boat, you might want a little more than a 100hp, or a spare, smaller pitch prop to use on the family fun trips. An 18.5-19' bass boat with a 150 can ride three in the boat, just not ideal seating, and pull a skier. A F&S will provide proper seating, but you might have to change your fishing some.

Being dry was either you were not checking them, or your charger is to high of voltage. If using an onboard or maintainer, make sure the float voltage (if it has afloat mode) is no higher than 13.2VDC. What does This mean for your current batteries, they are "junk".

I guess I know too much about them. I keep no parts, other than some tie wraps and maybe a role of tape. For tools, usually a pair of channel locks and a screw driver, and a pair of jumper cables. The only times I can remember using any of these is when helping someone else.

Besides charger, batteries,oil tank. I keep a gallon of oil, funnel, hand towel, SeaFoam, grease gun and jumper cables. Any tools are kept in storage compartments

If all else fails! Just stick a shotgun in there with a load a buck shot, it'll make a large enough hole to get anything you wat through there. Actually, if possible try to get some light in there and use a mirror to see what's blocking you. They may have a conduiit or opening that you may have to go through, and you could just be hitting a brace with your fish tape and need a better angle to get by it.

Glad to hear you got it. Hope we were more help than confusion. Hopefully you saved a few dollars and the boat didn't have to sit forever in someone's shop. I think you were smart to replace the helm also if he cranked on it hard enough to break the rack in the cable.

It's very easy to tell when you crossed the line. You start wondering why he doesn't invite you anymore. I personally would never get on the front deck or try to make long cast beyond the center of the boat, unless invited and was told there was no problems with it. Other than maybe when fishing for schooling fish breaking the water. Then you only have a short time to get a bait in front of them and you are not cutting the other person out. What is just as important is offering some gas money. It can cost big bucks hauling a large boat and feeding a big outboard.

The helm is what they all that whole piece mounted in the dash the steering wheel and cable is mounted to. If you knew for sure that was a telefflex SSC cable, you could just measure it. If I remeber right, the length is the last two digits of the PN. Probably a 12' or 13'

Size motor 50 vs 70 has no bearing on the cable, they are the. The thing is it has to be the cable for that helm and the proper length. Teleflex is on of the more popular units and they usually have the part number within a foot or two, of the helm, but it's very easy to overlook. I looked at that link since you said it looks just like your cable. It should have the numbers where I said. They are very small and my be fairly faint so look closely.

Yes. the steering wheel needs to come off. Take the center button out and take the nut off. IF it sheared the woodruff key, getting the nut off might be a problem without an impact wrench.

Did you check the woodruff key in helm shaft for the steering wheel? It's also very likely, if something broke at the helm, it was because the cable is bad, causing you to use a lot more effort to turn it.

Not as bad as it sounds, if you just go slow and pay attention to what you are doing. You need to see if you can find that part number, There are several different types and you need the cable length. Once you have it identified, do a search online. A number of places sell them, its just finding the best overall deal. shipping and cost, and if taxes are going to apply or not. If all else fails, you can remove the old one, just don't forget the rope and be sure to leave it to pull the new one, measure the cable and go picture shopping for one like it. You said it broke, it the cable itself broke, be careful on the measurement, the end may be pulled out some and make you measure it long.