rtwvumtneer6

All I use anymore.

Admittedly, I don't either. I have a few of the XT version but have used more than a couple of base SLX. Enough to say that it should be considered at the price point.

Shimano SLX and Falcon BuCoo

I'm really good at that! That's funny, I was actually in contact with them in regards to adding brakes to the factory trailer. ??

My father in law has a mini-van. He owned a floral shop and it was excellent for large deliveries. He sold the business and bought another van. He wants to haul his motor bike around with this one ?. It's a workhorse for sure?

My current driver won't handle the load. It's low mileage for it's age and I'd be silly not to take advantage of the current trade in value. I'd be looking at a new ride even if the boat wasn't in the picture. Crestliner Storm 1700. 20 Merc. Upgrading to a 24V TM (I fish a lot of restricted lakes) and a few other little extras. That weight came from the dealer after we discussed what I was looking for. Maybe it's high? But in this case I'd rather lean that direction.

I am. Looking at going up to the bigger Ascent with 5,000# tow but all Subarus are rated for just 1,000# unbraked.

Isn't that the truth. The real world experience being shared here has been helpful, and I'm glad to see we have a lot of responsible, safety minded members! Starting to think I should have just posted: "Need to tow 2,500# and the trailer is not equipped with brakes. What are you using?"

I don't have an answer, but I bet that particular frog has a terrible hook up percentage ?

It'll work out exactly how it's supposed to. ??

I saw a lot of that in my searching. I'm trying to solve for "What will do this, safely." And fit in my garage and budget, of course. So, I've identified the boat, now I'm trying to find the vehicle. That makes my question different, I think? I'm struggling in that the manufacturers, from a liability standpoint, can't tell me the true capability. Not that I want to push it, but I don't think it's going to take an F350 to tow safely and comfortably. However, the laws vary so much from state to state, and the owner manuals are generic, so they have to tell me anything over #1,000 requires trailer brakes to achieve the advertised capacity. I'm looking at a 17' aluminum, single axle trailer, 20HP, 3 batteries, 12 gallon tank, safety equipment, tools and gear. Really quite basic, if that's at all helpful. Best approximation is #2,400 total.

Grew up with Jeeps... Had a '96 Cherokee with the 4.0 and a tow package. It was bullet proof, and rugged. Rust got the best of it ?. Dad had a few of the newer ones, I think after Fiat got into the mix. Compass and Cherokee. They've... Evolved. Mom had an '01 Grand. It was nice. The ones they make today, I'd be afraid to use it for "work". Feel like they're moving into the luxury market. Anyway not sure I'll go that route, but I know it's a solid suggestion and a very capable vehicle.

Assuming you are not running brakes on the trailer? What boat did you get? I'm about as light as I can get without sacrificing what I would consider essential.

Really stuck in the mud here... Wanting to purchase my first boat and it's also looking like I'll need to upgrade my tow vehicle. The rig that I'm interested in is going to be roughly 2,400#. The vehicle I had intended to tow with -Forester Wilderness- is rated for 3,000# *with trailer brakes. In my shopping, trailer brakes were basically non-existent until you surpassed 3,000# trailer weight. The single axle trailer from the manufacturer does not have brakes - didn't even see it as an option. Started looking around at what tow capacities are for SUVs and midsize trucks w/o trailer brakes and a lot of them (i.e. Tacoma/4runner) were 1,000# (same as the Subaru.) Just trying to be safe, and not make a giant financial mistake here... I don't think I need an exceptionally beefy vehicle for the task, but my research is doing nothing but confusing the snot out of me. FWIW the SUV is overall more practical for me than a pickup. Looking for your experience and guidance to help me set a realistic expectation, and avoid learning the hard way... Thanks in advance.

Western PA stud. Spro poppin frog - Killer gill. 50# PP. Curado 200K XG. LowRider - Lizard dragger. 6# 9oz.

Check your state requirements. You may need to involve a notary for the governing body to accept the signature for titling purposes.

If I have a creature style bait, I replace it as soon as I lose a kicker. I know there are a lot of one clawed craws, but personally I can't stand it. Fun fishing, I'll make a plastic last until it no longer sits on the hook right, or it looks like it's to tear up completely. In a tournament situation it's every fish, or when the hook point becomes exposed and starts snagging vegetation. The exception is during a really hot bite. I'll give a quick visual and if it seems ok it's right back in.

1/8oz 1/0 is my go to for the 2.8 Fat Impact.

Welcome! Have been to Florida on two fishing adventures. What a great place you've got!

I guess "lubed" would be one way to say it. If you're talking about silt or vegetation I don't think you would see a difference. A solution there could be a lighter weight of you use one, a more streamlined bait and making sure your tags and knot aren't exposed.

One note after doing this, the baits came out of the bag slimy and snot covered. I believe some of the gel had congealed. Not sure if it was from heat, or if that's a normal reaction. Either way, it made me appreciate the lack of smell in this product. Wiped my hands off, threaded the bait on and caught a bunch of fish!

I'm sure you've thought of this, but be careful not to inhibit any weight transfer system the bait might have. I would tend to agree with @GRiver, many baits offer a silent version.

Welcome. Thank you for your service!

Welcome! I'm a big fan of Shimano reels. IMO you can't go wrong. As far as rods, I have a mix and match, and it's a work in progress!

Welcome!!