Travlin_Man

Kipawa

Avid the plywood goes between the bottom of the seat and the top of the bracket to raise the seat up for a more comfortable fishing position. I used short lengths of copper tubing between the wingnut and the bracket so I wouldn't pinch my fingers when tightening the bracket. Also a drop of oil on the threads makes for easier tightening and a tighter fit.

Before you panic, take the prop or whats left of it off the prop shaft and see if there are pieces of shear pin or broken prop causing the shaft to bind up.

Avid, Consider the removeable swivel brackets that clamp on to the boat with L shaped arms tightened up with wingnuts. You can add blocking ( I use three layers of 3/4" plywood) between the bracket and the bottom of the seat to obtain a comfortable elevation. I have had these on my Gheenoe for over twenty years and they are amazingly secure even @ 70 + mph on the road. I got some padded seats with folding backs @ BPS.

Avid , If you think about it it makes sense. The longer the anchor line the closer to horizontal will be the pull on the anchor, thus more holding power. Light winds and a light boat, canoe etc. normally can get away with less anchor line. Also Florida lakes tend to be relatively shallow.

The folding anchor works very well in soft bottoms. The trick with any anchor is to use enough line . I believe the ratio should be at least 6 to 1 i.e. anchor rope length is at least six times the depth of water.

I use a lightweight folding canoe anchor. It has four flukes that extend out like a grapnel . The whole thing doesn't weigh more than 3 or 4 lbs. yet it does a good job of holding the boat on windy days.

So much for Triton Quality.

Sash weights are cylinder shaped approximately 1 1/2" in diameter and are made of cast iron with a hole in one end to tie the sash cord. The length varies according to the size of the window sash the weight is made for. Any house with old wood frame double hung ( slide up and down) windows has sash weights. They counterbalance the weight of the sash so it will stay where you put it, open or partially so.

It sounds like you are overloaded before you even start. Your son is going to get bigger and a canoe is a very unstable boat. Ask Avid.

Are there gators or snakes where you plan to use this boat?

Avid, Take the prop off and then it will be easy to see what the shear pin is. Also check for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft.

Sorry Guys I haven't been on in a while . Gheenoe makes several models from a 13 footer to one that is rated for a 40 hp. outboard. The one I have had since 1980 looks like a 16 ft. square stern canoe that is slighly flaired out amidships. It weighs about 100 lbs. and is rated for 10 hp. However I use an MK. trolling motor only and it works very well. Stability?? The boat is almost impossible to capsize. I am 6'3" and weigh 185 and I can sit on the gunnel with out getting a wet axxxs. The shape of the boat, long and narrow' gives more speed and battery life with a trolling motor than a beamier blunt nosed hull. In case you haven't guessed, I love my Gheenoe.

One word GHEENOE

Marine plywood's advantage is that there are no voids between the plys. It will rot just like any other wood when not properly sealed. Any exterior grade plywood should be suitable for your deck. Just be sure that you seal both sides and the edges with a product intended for exterior use.

Check out the local Wal-Marts for fish finders. The portable units use a suction cup transducer. I bought a new Eagle unit a few years ago for $ 75. The store manager wanted to clear it to make room for other merchandise.

On dry land put the Kipawa prop back on and turn it by hand, see if anything is rubbing , scraping etc. Also check for any wobble.

Kipawa

This all depends on what your plan is for the deck. A good grade of 1/2" plywood should be ample if properly supported with stringers underneath. Remember the more plys the better. Some good straight grained 1x3 or 1x4 poplar will probably work.A slight crown of the lumber can work to your advantage. When turned up , the crown in the lumber will prestress the assembly. Remember that it is not only possible but also desirable to make the construction light weight. This can be done while still providing ample strength and durability for the intended use Consider the constuction of a hollow core door, very light weight for it's strength and rigidity .

RR You are welcome. My point was not so much the capicity of the roof rack, but @ 175lbs. how are you going to lift it and put it on top of the vehicle unless of course you are big enough to go bear hunting with a switch.

How much does the boat weigh? If you are going to put it on top of your van , the weight is very important unless you are big enough to go bear hunting with a switch.

The next time you have the boat off the trailer, spray the carpet on the bunks with silicon spray and let it dry while you are fishing. This will make the boat slide easier.

Put the oil in the gas tank (empty) first, then shoot the gas in rapidly until it is close to full then eze up until full. The force of the rapidly incoming gas will mix with the oil.

Use a product called "Goof Off" availble at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. in the paint dept.

The thickness of plywood you use depends on the quality/grade and the number of plys. Of more concern to you should be the pt. lumber resting against the aluminum hull. This can cause corrosion of the metal over the long run. Stainless steel fasteners are always a good choice.Send for a McFeely's Catalog of fastners. They are good poeple to deal with and there is good information as to scew applications and the various grades of stainless fastners. Is the boat to be used in salt water, or is it strictly a fresh water set up? I see too many pictures of decks built out of cdx or other low grade pine plywood. Once again the more plys the better strength to weight ratio. When you seal the plywood be extra carefull to seal the edges.