Travlin_Man

Avid, Thanks for sharing I need to try drop shotting on some of the finicky ponds that I fish.

See if you can find a friend with a cordless impact driver. Make sure you have a bit that fits the screw head securely, put the tool in reverse , keep firm downward pressure and hang on. I have found that an impact driver will remove screws that otherwise seem hopeless.

Avid, If the water heater is more than 5 or 6 yrs. old, bite the bullet call a plumber and get a new one installed. The hard water in this part of the country leaves mineral deposits inside the heater and shortens the usefull life. You will be ahead and not have to worry when it will stop heating and start leaking.

361 is right, Fl. State certified Contractor and Certified Building Inspector

Regular sheathing plywood is usually know as CDX and made from pine , not very strong and relatively heavy compared to fir ie. AB, AC. If you have a cabinet supply near you check with them on some five or seven ply exterior grade. The more plys the smaller the voids and the the stronger and more stable the plywood.

Guys , these props are not like buying a new ss unit for a 200 hp. in $. If you need a new tm prop buy one and see for yourself, not a lot of $$$.

Sorry but I don't have a gps. The boat is powered by the MK trolling motor only. The long narrow shape gives me more speed and less wind resistance than a more beamy blunt nosed vessel. This and the extreme stability are the major reasons that I bought the boat in 1980.

M.K. Endura transom mount 44lb. thrust. I usually don't do the same run on any two consecative trips, however as far as battery life , I can fish five or six hours with no problem. This is with a Delco deep cycle battery that I bought in Oct. 1999. The Kipawa is a three blade prop vs. the oe. two blade It is just as durable as far as hitting wood etc. is concerned.

I have been using one on my Gheenoe for about two years and I'll never go back to a stock prop. I fish a lot of "electric only" lakes and the Kipawa prop gives me a little more speed and is just as weedless or more so than the "weedless wedge" that is the standard prop on my M.K. My impression is that this product is designed for smaller lighter boats.Although I have no facts or figures, it seems like it has a slightly steeper pitch than a stock prop. This would explain the faster speed on a jonboat Gheenoe etc.

Your welcome guys. Just remember they are not stainless, so a little silicon spray etc. every once in a while. T. M.

Lightninrod, the d-barb pliers have carbide cutters and a magnet to cut the end off of the hook so you can back it out without tearing up the fish. The magnet holds the cut off barb. The long handles give lots of leverage so it's easy to cut the hook. I don't remember how I found out about them , but they work quite well.

A lot cheaper than $78 and they work great, I've had a pair for a few years www.dbarb.com

I agree with those that say smaller number of fisherman = nicer day on the water Also the fact that you can't buy fishing success.

Did I detect a yellow tint to the wake on the first video??

Briggs electric outboard no longer being made?? It's still on the Briggs& S. web site???

Avid that $800 price ??? Who do you kiss?

Mud motors can do remarkable things in shallow water, but check out the weight. There is no free lunch.

Don't get stuck in the Home Depot/Lowes rut when shopping for plywood. See if there is a good local lumber company or cabinet makers supply near you. Sometimes you can find a little better grade of plywood in such a place and sometimes it's cheaper than the big box stores. Always look for exterior grade with an odd number of plys, ie 5,7,9 .

Avid , are you taking blood thinner?

Either type of PT plywood could cause a reaction when fastened against the metal. This has to do with the "salts" in the preservative. Also PT plywood is usually not as a good a grade = less plys, more knot holes, = less strength per pound. Trust me on this, use a good five or seven ply plywood and coat both sides and the edges with some clear polyurethane or other sealer. T. M. licensed contractor and building inspector

I have a 15' 6" model called a lowsider. This is the same boat as the current highsider except for a little less freeboard. The bare hull weighs approx. 100 lbs. and I use a Performance trailer that is designed for gheenoes. When I first bought the boat and for several years thereafter, I would slide it on top of my topper on my pickup truck. Alas those days are gone. The trailer is better as I can leave my swivel seats attached and keep things in the middle seat/dry storage area. I don't clamp on the tm until I get to where I will fish. The battery is placed in the bow to offset my weight in the stern.

Avid, I have been fishing from a Gheenoe for over twenty five years. I have used a 9.9 hp. outboard in the past, but for the last several years it's been an electric trolling motor . I get more speed and battery distance than a jonboat because of the long slender shape. These boats are unbelievably stable and I can stand up and fish or even sit on the gunwhale with no problems. Check out www.customgheenoe.com Go to the "forum" there are usually some 13ft. gheenoes for sale. However I think that you would be better served with a standard highsider or even an older lowsider which is what I have. Feel free to p m me if you have any ???

Thanks for sharing. So what's a few potholes or a little slow traffic in the USA? This makes me appreciate what we have here.

I would say you need Pan Am, as in flying boat. Sikorsky , Boeing, etc.

If you can find the pipe, fill it with expanding foam before you cap it. Leave off both ends, fill with foam cut off the excess and then cap it. Hoever you realize that pvc caps are flat on the end, doesn't make for a very speedy pontoon.