bmadd

Like NBR said...my finesse fishing is light lures on light lines for catching wary bass. I use either a 6'6 or a 7' ML with a fast action. For my weightless soft plastic fishing I like a 6'6 MH. The shorter rod makes skipping under boat docks and other places easier and the MH helps with the hookset.

I'm fixing to try these hooks for fishing either 5" or 6" senkos wacky style. What is the adequate size hook to use for this?

When fishing a shaky head setup around rocks...what kind of jig head will excel at staying out of the rocks. I like to use a spot remover pro for my shaky head but the shape of the jig head gets easily stuck between rocks. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I've been reading a lot about people using o-rings to hold senkos in place when they are fishing wacky, what kind of o-rings are everybody using? Also, i saw on the FLW tournament this past weekend where the winner was using surgical tubing on the hook to hold the senko in place. Anybody ever try this?

What about these o rings...what diameter?

I've noticed a lot of companies have clear and opaque color choices in their lineups. What is this supposed to imitate and when are conditions right to use a clear bait?

Shinichi Fukae won a FLW tournament on Beaver Lake last April using them on a shakey head.

I'm a big fan of Fenwick rods. I have a 7 and a 6'6 MH baitcasting Techna AV and I also have a 7 ft MH spinning HMG. The 7 ft HMG has no problem tossing senkos or any other small lures. I'll second the advice on possibly getting a Revo. They're awesome. I don't think you'll be disappointed with the Fenwick rods.

GMan...my first thought about my problem was that I needed a shakey head with a wide gap hook. If you don't mind me asking what mold did you use?

I'm kind of surprised to see only two posts for Abu Garcia Cardinals. I think they are the best spinning reels for under $50.

I never really considered my set up. My shakey head setup is a 6'6 ML with 8 fluoro. Also, most of my problems have been with bigger plastics like flukes and lizards, the smaller ones.

Get any pair of Costas you want. Match the color lens to the type of water your going to be fishing. THEN make sure you order you a nice set of Costa Keepers to string them around your neck. The best investment you can buy besides the Costas.

Thanks. When you mold them in, do you just place it where the weedguard would go?

I've been using the Spot Remover pro jig heads. I like being able to screw on my lure but it seems like it keeps my plastic in the way of the hookset sometimes. If I added a hitchhiker coil to another jig head, would the ability of the lure to swing out of the way help with my hooksets?

I've been told that if a fish is hooked on the front of your crank it hit it from the side and was more likely a reaction strike. If it was hooked on the back then it had followed your bait before hitting it from behind. Kinda makes sense but could be nothing...

Posted by: gridiron Posted on: Today at 8:16am I tried to fish a Zoom Baby Bass fluke last night in one pond with murky water and another pond that is mostly clear with alot of bloom right now. I had no luck at all. Baby bass is my favorite color fluke to fish. I rig mine weightless on a gammy 4/0 and work it as slow as I can on top of the water occasionally letting it drop a little but only to about 6" before I bring it back to the top. This is killer in the shallows and on the edges of weeds. It also works well going across the top of weeds and letting it drop in pockets.

Hey Whittler...i tried your little project out and it was pretty easy to do. good detailed directions. my only problem now is whats the best way to fish one of these lures. im more of a soft plastic fisherman so i don't have much experience with these.

Spot Remover now offers a Pro model that has the same stand up design also with a spring to screw the worm onto...just another option

The trailer isn't rusted. Its just the paint looks faded.

My boat is a 1985 18' fiberglass Bumble Bee with a 150 hp Mariner outboard. For the trailer, i would like to repaint it and place a new jack and winch on it. The running boards look fine and and feel sturdy enough. thanks.

Hey guys, as the fishing season is fixing to start up, i want my rig to look good as i pull it up to the lake. anybody have any advice on a way to restore my trailer without having to take my boat off? if not, is there a way i can get my boat off without having water to put it in? thanks guys

I have an aluminum 14' 36" jon boat that i use in places where i cant get my bass boat into. I want to start a buildup on this jon boat to make it a little more comfortable and usable. My first major problem is that the boat leaks. It has a small puncture mark near the front of the boat and it also looks like the previous owner had either stepped on or dropped something heavy on the plug in the back and broke it off halfway at the seam from the boat. The best solution, i know, would be to have someone with a TIG welder take care of them for me. However, i would like to do most of the work myself. So my question is, do you think the Ultra Tuff polyurethane coating from Bass Pro or any other non-skid coating (like the bed liner materials) could be laid down over the whole inside of the boat to seal it ? This could also help keep any reactions from aluminum and wood from happening.