Oklahoma Mike

I prefer the ones Seibert makes. A few others I like: Savage Gear Titanium Wire Jackall Super Eruption Damiki Gladiator Stanley Vibra-Wedge

I can and sometimes do use my spinnerbait rod for throwing jigs. The bigger issue for me is that I like to use both quite a bit and want to have one of each tied on. Also, I need the most sensitivity out of my jig rod whereas that isn't so important for me with spinnerbaits, so that comes into play when selecting a dedicated rod for each. Line choice is another issue... I prefer FC on my jig rod but like to use braid on my spinnerbait rod (which I also use for chatterbaits and buzzbaits).

On a typical outing I will use 4 casting rigs and 1 spinning rig. But there are also days when I do nothing but finesse fishing and will strictly use spinning gear, or if it's really windy and for whatever reason I'm not able to fish with the wind at my back.

The Tatula would be a good choice and what I'd pick out of those in your list. The AvidX is also a fine choice, but I would also recommend you check out Hammer Rods - I would go with the 7'H Micro for what you are describing.

Been my go-to topwater bait for quite a while now. More versatile than a buzzbait and more effective than a WP. I use both sizes (Pompadour and Pompadaur Jr.). Both are very effective, though I usually throw the larger size.

Plano 3700 boxes are $8 at Tackle Warehouse.

I'm currently using a Quantum Exo 300 on my swimbait setup. It's very light weight, which was one of the primary reasons I ended up going with that reel. Didn't hurt that I found it on sale for $100 either

I decided to go out and the garage and see what I can actually cram into one box. I'm assuming it needs to include terminal tackle and plastics. Would vary by season and location, but it would generally look something like this:

I usually fish them weightless, but on the occasions when I do use a weight, I go with the Owner wacky jig head in 1/8 oz.

Pretty much everything I would recommend has been mentioned here - chatterbait, double Colorado blade spinnerbait, Pompadour, and I would add a buzzbait and a jig with rattles as well. Darker colors. When the visibaility is that low, you need to appeal to the lateral lines to help the fish locate your bait, so anything that creates vibration will increase your chances.

Palomar or SDJ will get the job done just fine if tied correctly. If using the Palomar, make sure you don't let the lines cross over one another when making your loops.

My thoughts exactly. I appreciate quality products and am willing to spend a little more money to get them, even for casual fishing and occasional tourney use. I d**n sure wouldn't be buying a cheapo $50 reel for that volume of tournament fishing.

This is what I use to clean my cork handles and it works like a charm.

Senko, Savage Gear Armor Tube Worm, or Biospawn Exostick.

For me the bait would depend on how much chop is on the water. If it's calm, I'm going to start with a something subtle like a popper. Mild chop and it'll be a walking bait. Heavy chop and I'll look for something that makes a lot more racket, like a buzz bait, Jackall Pompadaur, or Whopper Plopper. These last three I will also throw in all conditions if I've train but haven't had success with the other, more subtle baits. By the way... I will fish topwater any time of day and always have one tied on. Yes, dusk and dawn are typically the most productive, but that doesn't mean those are the only times surface lures are effective.

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Straight from Gary (I'd post a link to the article but it is blocked here): Weighted Flipping/Pitching - I flip and pitch a weighted Senko with 20 lb. Sugoi line around shallow shoreline cover, especially into brush or timber. Texas-rigged on a 4/0 to 5/0 straight-shank hook, with a screw-in sinker between 1/4 and 5/8-ounce, I overcast the target cover and allow the weighted bait to "swim" down toward the base of the brush, then employ the same swimming-and-gliding presentation if I didn't get bit on the initial drop says Gary. However, good cover such as this can be the obvious places for everyone to try, and can receive a lot of pressure from anglers who work flooded brush or trees from the "outside" as just described. However even with a lot of angling pressure, there can be bass tucked deep under the limbs near the base of a brush or tree are often unfished. Most anglers, their baits get hung up too high in the limbs to be effective or pendulum-fall too far out away from the base of the stem, says Gary. They will take some fish off the outside of the cover this way, but bass tucked under the limbs tight near the main trunk stem, these fish often won't come out to the edges. Envision it just like you'd tuck yourself under an umbrella during a downpour. You won't poke your head out from under the umbrella cover, and neither do these bass. So the weightless Senko becomes ineffective in this situation. A weightless Senko would not get down below the limbs but hang up too high in the brush to get a bite. So I ease the bow of the boat directly up to or over each bush, taking care not to hit the brush with the trolling motor. Then I drop the Senko over the side, work it through the center of the brush or tree until it hit bottom, shake it a little bit and they grab it. As hard as it can be to get the bait down through the brush, it is even harder to get the bass out. That's where the 20 lb Sugoi made the difference with its abrasion resistance. Also for flipping like this, the straight shank hook (without the offset bend in it) makes a difference as it slips through dense cover better. Lightweight Screw-in Rig - I also use a lightly-weighted Senko. A lot. On breaklines, points, steep bluff walls, main channel bends, anywhere out away from shoreline cover, especially in mid-depths of 10 to 20 feet. I like to use either a 3/16 or 1/4-ounce screw-in sinker with a 4/0 or 5/0 straight shank wide gap hook, says Gary. I usually don't pitch it too far from the boat. I want it to fall onto prime structure I've located on the electronics. The screw-in weight causes the Senko to spiral as it falls. They say this spiral represents an injured or dying baitfish. But if you look at perfectly healthy baitfish, you see they too often swim in spirals, and the light screw-in sinker lets the Senko imitate this lively baitfish action. Once it settles on the bottom, just start shaking the rod tip, which will cause the Senko to jump one to two feet above the bottom. When you stop shaking, the Senko simply glides back down in a semi-circle. They strike it. By using a 3/16 to 1/4 oz. screw-in sinker to fish Senkos down to 20 feet deep, this is how I finished 13th at the Bassmaster Megabucks on Douglas Lake (Sevierville, TN) in May, 2001, thereby qualifying for the 2001 Bassmaster Classic. Weighted Senkos work says Gary.

Control it? HAAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAHAAHAAHAHAA! No.

I use both but will only go to the wacky rig if I'm not having success with it T-rigged. My reason for this preference is the increased chances of gut hooking them on the wacky rig.

For me it's gonna be a senko or a jig.

Ah, in that case I'd go with the Hammer. That is the rod I use for exactly what you mentioned and also throw some jigs on it. I cannot recommend that rod enough.

Just to be clear here, when you say spinning, are you saying a spinning rod? Or do you mean a baitcasting rod for spinnerbaits? If the former, I'd recommend this one http://stcroixrods.com/products/freshwater/avid-x/ I'd probably go with the 7' MH/F for the baits you mentioned. If the latter, I'd get a 7' H Micro Hammer http://www.hammerrods.com/products_results.php?Search=1&ProductCategoryID[]=10

Budget?

What size is the spinning reel and what is the rod you are using?