BrackishBassin

Pad Crasher all day. But I’ve only tried the pad crashers, Spros, and LiveTarget.

I fish my frogs with a MH rod with no issues, but I do throw them on 50lb braid. I don’t think I could get away with throwing them on mono where I fish.

Check out Sierra Trading Post for backpacks. If price is a concern, avoid things that are sold as ‘fishing’ backpacks. As soon as it gets that label, the price jumps 20%. I’m currently looking to replace my backpack. Like you, I’m a bank beater. I appreciate the reviews! Let’s me know to avoid these two and go with something not meant for fishing. It’ll be cheaper, and I’ll have more flexibility to make it my own.

Started out fishing saltwater from the shore/piers and always required two hands when casting to achieve the distance I wanted and avoid smacking bystanders in the head with large chunks of lead. Habit stuck with me going to freshwater. Even if it’s a really short cast, I always have two hands on the rod (spinning or casting).

Check out this post from another forum. Has some information about those older Shakespeare reels and their model numbers. https://www.fishingtalks.com/shakespeare-criterion-level-winding-no.1960-model-26-37217.html Saw some on sale online for $12 - $20, if the value is what you're looking for. Pretty cool conversation piece imo. I'd clean it up and keep it.

Did a quick search and couldn't really find the information I was looking for. If you're setting up a baitcasting reel to pitch/flip (more important for pitching I suppose), how do you set the spool tension and brakes? I kind of assume you would want the spool tension and brakes lower than you would normally have them for casting. Or am I completely off the mark here? Thanks!

PowerPro, hands down. My brother bought some of that Spidewire stealth braid and had me spool his spinning reels for him. I told him how to do it, but once I started talking about backing and line/line knots he said, "I'm bringing it over." Anyways, I spooled up three reels for him with the Spiderwire. I don't know why, but something just felt 'wrong' with it. I don't know if I'm used to PowerPro because it's what I've always used for saltwater, so I used it for freshwater too. Or there really is something different about it that makes me think it wouldn't be as effective. Anyways, long story short - PowerPro.

Believe it or not, I’ve done a similar test with a gallon of water and my MH GX2. Did fine. My point was that once you exceed the recommended line for that rod, then you can’t blame the rod if it fails.

Exactly my point. Using line way over the recommended is asking for trouble. What I was talking about had absolutely nothing to do with line diameter. It was about the breaking strength.

Eh, I wouldn’t go quite that far. For example, if you’re fishing a rod rated for 8-15lb line with 65lb braid and the rod breaks, it’s not the rod’s fault. It’s yours. Seen guys break a rod and then go around thinking X brand has crappy rods. If you exceed the line rating for that rod (as freshwater guys often do), just keep in mind that the weak link in your set up is now the rod (depending on your drag settings). If it breaks, it’s on you.

This topic coming up caused me to pay pretty close attention to the most recent MLF event (just got the chance to watch it today). Not one of the guys actually flipped (that I saw), but every single one of them that was pitching referred to it as “flipping”. Every one. While maintaining the meaning of words is important to a language’s ability to clearly communicate thoughts/ideas, people need to remember that the only languages that aren’t in a constant state of change are dead. The meaning and usage of words are constantly changing as the culture using the language changes. It’s quite possible that the culture of bass fishing is seeing one of those shifts right now when it comes to pitching/flipping. Whether or not it’s good or bad is really a matter of personal opinion. If the professionals are making the switch, I’d argue that the change in meaning has already been made. You can adapt to it, or you can fight it. In the end, it’s not really going to matter one way or another.

Yes, quite well. Regularly completed the mile swim in Boy Scouts and spent lots of time swimming in the ocean and larger lakes growing up. Swimming really should be a part of the elementary school curriculum everywhere. It’s a safety issue. Not everyone needs to be an Olympic swimmer, but everyone needs to be able to at least float on their back comfortably. I say, take the classes. If someone wants to laugh at you for learning something that could save your life, they’re probably not worth the oxygen they’re using on a daily basis.

I’ve owned a few multi-piece rods and the only con I can really come up with is a result of my own forgetfulness. In the past, I’ve forgotten which rods were more than 1 piece and grabbed them by the tip to lift them up. Ended up bouncing one of my Battle 2s off the pavement multiple times before I learned my lesson. Now I mark them with some red nail polish on the tip.

That’s a little bit different. Almost all of those guys have the rod in a holder on the boat and/or in a harness. They aren’t keeping tension on the fish with their arm, the holder/harness is doing it for them. They also aren’t casting with those rods. That’s an apples and oranges comparison, in my opinion.

Only one way to guarantee your beer is cold - drink it before it has a chance to warm up.

Not exactly the same question, but the discussion that followed definitely applies.

I wear a regular ball cap. No hat out there (don’t care who makes it) beats a buff pulled out of a cooler full of ice. Went out this past summer for 4 hours. It was 103 by 9am and only got hotter. The buff soaked in ice water was the ticket. I’d never done that before, but done it plenty since then.

Asked this same question a while back, in a slightly different way. I can link it if you would like to see the replies for that thread.

Don’t have that specific rod you’re trying to match, but I use a Fierce 2 in the 2000 size on my 7’ ML spinning rod and it matches up well. Going with a 300/3000 size seems a little large, especially for a L rod. Just a waste of spool space for freshwater.

If only we could get insurance to cover it...

Only the freshwater ones though.

I use amber and/or green mirror (amber base) exclusively. Haven’t seen a need for anything else. They work until it’s too dark to need glasses, and they also work in full sun. I don’t fish open water, so I’ve never even tried a pair of blue mirror (gray base). Never been a fan of gray spectrum (gray, black) lenses in sunglasses. I lose too much contrast.

I think he was asking what the name of the jig itself was.

I always go with plastic lenses for fishing specific sunglasses due to the safety aspect, so I’d be no help to you here.

I’ll definitely keep an eye on this as well. Would love to pick up at least one more, especially if it’s on clearance.