Wayne P.

You got it. Spinnerbaits have large diameter wire hooks with large barbs, the lack of line stretch gives better hookups especially at the end of a long cast. I prefer a lower gear ratio (around 5:1) for the larger spinnerbaits.

It would be egeria or hydrilla, just the leaves are slighty different.

That would be interesting to see in action for on-the-water use.

I think that has already been covered here: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/forum-8/announcement-5-read-me-before-posting-this-is-critical/ I was referred to that once and just passing it on.

Since that has been discussed several times, you can do a topic search and read all those inputs.

I have a BB-1 also. Bought it new and registered it--(yes I'm old). Lew Childre sent me a set of weights to go on the spool brakes to better control backlash. The only parts I have replaced is the level wind pawl and anti-reverse dog. It is still in good condition.

Routes are planned travel with a series of waypoints. No unit can plan a travel route for you. Water does not have highways like a land based GPS unit with turn-by-turn directions.

Any hand-held that has a card slot can be used to export the unit's GPS data to install in another unit. I have loaded sonar/GPS unit data to my handhelds too. I have done it and still do with Lowrance hand-helds and Humminbird sonar units. The files have to be translated to the soanr unit's file type.

This twin color line is created by me with a Q-tip and softbait lure dye. Daiwa has a couple of multi-color superlines coded for some of their high end reels. Saltiga and Boat. I use the Saltiga as well as the Samurai. Ohero has a multicolor superline too, but it looses most of its color in a couple of days fishing.

Good point and one of the main reasons for using superlines--small diameter and high strength.

Red line does not disappear in water. The red color is the first to be filtered out and the line will appear brown to black as the depth increases.

That is 40# Daiwa Samurai tinted with red dye. That color combination is easier for me to see under most lighting conditions. It is the same as the line in my avatar.

Yep, it does matter to me. I want a line that I can see the best to detect subtle bites. The fish don't care what the line looks like.

That is what I did to power the backup lights on my trailer.

Yes I know some anglers that have done it. I have several times using weightless worms rigged weedless wacky like my avatar. It's the presentation that attracts the fish. They are not scared of fishing line in any color. Fish don't know what fishing line is. A crayfish's antennas look like superline, the bass don't run off to the other end of the lake when they see that "line".

Yes, the ball type mount is pretty much quick disconnect after you disconnect the cables. Just turn the big wing nut about 4 times. I use them on units with gimbal mounts for ease of removal as well as adjustabiltiy.

I put tractor flood lights on the trailer guide-ons and hooked them to the backup light circuit.

Which RAM mount are you considering?

Raising the transom makes a boat safer???? That make as much sense as football bat. Did you raise the gunnels too?

Any unit can be a portable unit. It only takes a power supply, transducer mounting, and a carrying case. I have 4 sonar units on my boat, and I remove them after I get off the boat ramp and they go back on just before launching.

The bottom of the transducer should be 3/8" below the bottom of the hull. When you drill the holes for mounting, have them in the middle of the height adjustment slots so you can reposition it higher or lower if needed. Most fiberglass bass boats have a stepped transom and the transducer has to be at the lowest level to have water contact when on plane. The 3/8" is a starting point to check for performance. You may get by with it parallel with the hull bottom instead of just below it. It depends on how the junction of the bottom and transom is formed and what the hull's attitude is at speed. Some metal hulls have a weld bead or rivets at the transom/bottom level and the whole transducer would have to be below the hull bottom to get below the aerated water created by those features.

I use 20# - 40# superline on all my spinning gear. Those are 3# to 8# mono equivelent diameters.

That is as it should be.

Odd that a boat of that quality doesn't have fuse panel somewhere.

Go to the Lowrance web site Click on Support Then Knowledge Base The article is the second one listed in the FAQ