Wayne P.

http://www.fishingworld.com/Slider/Details.tmpl?ID=95687337951554 I prefer the Spider Slider style of head because it is the most snagfree. It is one of the best post cold front presentations. Some use it just like any other regular jig head.

I friend of mine has a jon boat of similar length and it is somewhat narrower at the bow than the transom (a Tracker Grizzly). When he fishes alone, the back of his boat is at or very close to the surface. That may be your problem with getting a constant signal in disturbed water. Putting more weight in the back of your boat may be the best option. Add a spare battery, carry your anchor (if you carry one) in the rear. He weighs more than I and when we fish together in his boat, the front is still lower in the water than the rear. Is your trolling motor battery already at the back of the boat? If not move it there and just run wires to the front to a receptacle for the motor and electronics.

I have several of that style cap light ( black light, white light, and green light). The mosquitos really love them when used for night fishing. It only takes a couple of seconds for them to come to it after it is turned on.

I fished a Northern Va. lake yesterday near Fredericksburg. About mid-day a boat came by me headed back to the ramp and informed me that the fishing was tough, the cold front had them turned off, they hadn't caught anything. All I saw tied on their rods were large spinnerbaits and large worms. I quit fishing at 5:30 PM and had caught 102 bass and 2 bluegills, I wasn't using large worms and spinnerbaits-I wasn't using live bait either. Tidal water bass are not as affected by frontal conditions as much as lake bass. They are more influenced by the tides and use the tide flows to their advantage.

Where did you mount the transducer?

A better, cheaper, more readily available way. Use electrical shrink tubing, just cut a short piece of tubing (1/8"- 3/16"), slip it over the bait, apply a little heat if the fit is not tight, slip the hook under the tubing, fish. The 3/8" diameter fits 5"-7" Senkos and copies well. You can also just put your hook through the tubing and bait and you won't get the occasional sling-off when you cast. No special installation tool is necessary.

Nope, no difference in fishing results and baits, getting there is a lot more expensive though.

Sorry, I can't advise you on "good times" boat. All mine are for bass fishing and that one is not one.

Is the style of the boat suitable for what you want a boat for?

No, diameter has nothing to do with it, the braid strength is twice or more of the fluorocarbon. The fluorocarbon is the weakest link. Simple physics

I use regular 20# fluorocarbon line, not the leader material, with 20# and 30# braids with the uni-uni knot connection. I always use 6 turns on both sides. Never any knot failures. I also use the uni-knot for the terminal tackle. The connection flows easily through size 6 rod tips. I trim the tag ends flush with the knot. Simple, strong, and effective. Where your breakoffs occur is not a surprise- 30#-50# vs 15#

I have some custom make copies of that lure in a couple of lengths. They are hanging in a closet, out of sight, and will remain there.

OK, I have to make one more comment to let you know were I am coming from. BassXL, I am an old retied guy that has been serious bass fishing since the early 1970's. I volunteer to provide my boat and be a boat captain for the Jr. B.A.S.S. Federation Nation tournaments in Virginia. If you had been in my boat and caught that fish it would not have been put in my livewell. For you young folks, integrity is a whole lot more important than trying to get away with an illegal fish that you know is illegal when you caught it. Me as the boat owner/driver would be the recipient of a violation citation if caught with that fish in my boat and it was determined to be illegal by any fisheries agent. Not only that, I would be aiding and approving the dishonesty of a young person in my charge. The results of what was allowed at the weigh-in had no bearing on the decision to keep it. It was illegal at the time it was caught, measured and determined to be 1/4" too short.

I have the Kistler KCBCM66 rod and it functions quite well for small to medium cranks. I have the Kistler MgCBCGGM70 rod and it functions quite well for large cranks.

My guess is that they came from a battery maintenace change of a UPS system. Note the bolt torque instructions. They are just lead/acid batteries like most common deep cycle batteries. http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ The batteries are probably actually made in Japan http://www.atbatt.com/yuasa-batteries.asp I would also guess that their amp capactity to be quite low for trolling motor use. Google is as Google does

This one works fine-sporting goods at Walmart

Do a web search for Perko Latches. Several suppliers carry that brand and most bass boats have them in various styles. The "T" handle style is the most durable.

I guess it would depend on whether they had a flipping stick or an ultra light rod. LOL :

I've lost bass with 65# before and wished I had used at least 80#. Big bass in timber and or heavy vegetation in no place for wimpy line. Did you see the ESPN show about the Elite tournament on Falcon Lake?

My last words on this subject- your decision to keep it was contrary to the information you had at the time you caught it. A Poacher is a Poacher is a Poacher !!!!!!! If you don't know what a Poacher is, look up the definition.

An angler determines whether or not to keep a fish. If the fish is not a legal size it should be immediately released. By your own statement, you admitted it was 1/4" short. What happened later has no bearing on the decision you made to keep an illegal fish.

I wouldn't be been so proud of keeping a fish that I thought was not legal. Shame on you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree with Micro, the fish do to.

What I did to solve the line slipping out of the eye problem was to tie a knot with either mono or braid, cut the line leaving the knot. Slide the knot around to the gap that looks like it does not exist. Then tie your line on. I pretied several hooks before hand to lessen the retie time in case of a breakoff when tournament fishing.I tried to super glue the knot in place for a while but just about any tension would negate that process. You could go to a larger diameter braid and it may prevent it. I was using spinning gear for light weight flipping/pitching and Original Spiderwire 30# which had a 6# mono diameter. A knot change to keep your weight from even touching the knot or any slipping out is to use a uni-knot for a snell connection. That method works quite well if you use tungsten weights which are very hard and will destroy a knot when using the heavy ones.

Are you sure the line is breaking and not slipping out of the gap in the hook eye? I had that occur several times especially with 30# braid before I figured out what was going one. The knot is real small and you may have not noticed it was still there when you retied especially since you use the Palomar knot. Lead is probably not hard enough to cut the braid. Flipping in the pads on the Potomac is where I experienced that.