Wayne P.

How about a bass about 3' long attacking a school of shad? No, I didn't catch it, but did try for about 1/2 hour.

I prefer to do the fishing, not let some creature do the fishing for me.

A DEEP CYCLE battery. The larger the size, the more run time you get.

I have Liberty Sport frames with prescription polarized bi-focals. It is the only wrap around frame style that will work with my prescription. With the seals on the frame, there is no light leakage to create back glare. Sort of like the Wiley X sunglasses.

Before you cut the plug off, check the boat for a receptacle that the plug fits. The boat may have been wired to use that plug. The motors don't come with plugs, just ring terminals. The plug is on the power cord for a reason.

Fight crime, shoot back !!!!!!!!!

Did you give up on seeing sideways? The PiranhaMax and Elite 4 cannot do that.

Research Gambler. The Sterling is a Gambler.

ONLY the trolling motor should be connected to the two trolling motor batteries. All the other stuff connects to the outboard starting (cranking) battery. Livewell pumps, lighting, engine harness, electronics, bilge pumps and any other accessories. If you have a fuse panel for accessories, that is connected to the cranking battery. If you add sofisticated electronics, you may have to upsize that battery to have more reserve capacity since it will be performing deep cycle duty when the outboard is not running.

Lipless crankbaits is one of them. Rattletrap, Redeye Shad, Spot, etc

Yes there are several group sizes, but not narrow. Something like that would not have the capacity for much heavy deep cycle use. I use the deep cycle batteries from Sams or Walmart in group 27 size. I get 5+ years use with them. There stock turnover is high enough to always have fresh batteries. You can sacrifice a storage compartment for battery/s and or charger.

8:1 is even better

6 gauge is plenty and is the standard size for quality bass boats. Tracker usually has 8 gauge since they go cheap on the standard trolling motor. I had 6 gauge installed in my Tracker before I took it home.

Modify your brush weed guards by dividing them in half left to right with your finger. Press down between the two halves so they stay separated with the hook visible between them. Problem solved.

3 X 12V = 36V 2 X 12V = 24V It is that simple.

Its been done several times, this is one of them: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/125691-post-your-personal-bests/

I don't tournament fish, but want my time on the water to be the most efficient. I use Side Imaging at the console and bow. I want to see "over there" no matter what location on the boat I am. I use SI at the bow a lot more than at the console since that is where I am most of the time and the SI view is the one I use 90% + of the time. I don't use Down Imaging for fishing at all and certainly not for searching due too the lack of coverage. I only turn it on to take screenshots for teaching purposes. I have four Side Imaging units on my boat

Look at the posted screenshots above. The Helix 5 and 7 series are not linkable, but the Helix 9, 10, and 12 series are. There are close out sales on Humminbird, Garmin, and Lowrance units now for discontinued models.

Default Sensitivity, 83/200 kHz, FishID on, Default FishID Sensitivity, chart speed at GPS speed in all the screen shots. Humminbird 1198c SI Combo with software version 6.490. The ones with no temp readout are snapshots taken when I was playing back a recording with the unit on my desk (Playback note at the top), so there is no temp sensor connected. I have about 30 minutes of that recording. I did the searching while recording, then went back and caught some of them with a blade bait. Basically I determine the pattern with my electronics before I start fishing.

Where I fish, cold water fish are mostly near the bottom when the surface water temp is freezing up to low 40's I look for active feeding in or near a creek channel like this: As the water temp gets to the mid 40's and slightly higher, they will be suspended and more difficult to catch:

IF you don't get max rpm with the stock prop, it should be changed so it does unless you just use it at idle speed. I put a standard instead of the Big Foot version 9.9 four stroke Merc on my Tracker PT 170 TX and the rpms would only get to about 4500 with the stock 9" prop. I changed the prop to a 6 1/2" and the motor is "happier".

If it is just the High Definition Survey, it is not accurate and is not done by Lakemaster. There are three levels of maps, only one is actually done by Lakemaster--Lakemaster High Definition Survey. Like other digital mapping software products, some locations are purchased from "other sources" to have more content than the data they have. Don't bet your life and property on the accuracy of any of them. Trust what your sonar is showing you. I purchased a High Definition Survey location via Chart Select and it is a joke. There are features that are physically impossible and certainly were not a result of any on-the-water surveys. Either Lakemaster created the fake details or they were purchased from another company like the Standard Survey locations are. Mapping companies have software that create contour lines based on nearby features, either a non-HD map with some contours or the shape of the shoreline. That is called Interpolation. Even their own surveys do not have 100% coverage as they do not collect data for every square foot of terrain. They collect data in intervals and the software fills in contours between the data points. All mapping is like that with either computer generated features or manually done.

BTW, you should get at least 10 FEET accuracy with the GPS. The map quality is probably your issue. I get 1' - 4' accuracy with my Humminbird units.

Is the location a Lakemaster High Definition Survey or one of the other two map sources?

There is no such thing as too much thrust. Get the most powerful one you can afford and have battery room for.