Boomstick

I should add that this is not his first casting rod.He has an Ugly Stik he learned to cast on which is usable as a most moving bait stick, so MH/F seems like it would be the way to go but should I go with a M/F rod I can get a shock for $22 right now too. We also as a group don't currently have a true M/F casting rod either, so there's that. I'm open to any brands, probably in the $100-150 range. I have mostly Tatula casting rods and those are the ones that usually make it into the car with me, so I probably will get something different just to tell them apart. I was considering a Fenwick HMG M/F which is like a solid MH/F from any other brand. That seems like a decent rod for $100, but I would say it's at least as strong as the Elite Tech Bass MH/F. I also found a great deal on a Shimano Zodias, but that's a serious almost heavy rod right there, not sure if it'll be a little too heavy.

I am looking to get my oldest son a rod for his birthday for soft plastics and paddle tail swimbaits and torn between a M/F, M/XF and MH/F myself. All three will work, it's just what else you can use it for. As far as spinning vs casting, it's total preference. I have used a M/F spinning rod for texas rigs, and I have used a MH/F casting rod as well. The spinning rod is often easier in a small boat like a canoe where you can get above your target and want a vertical presentation, but if I am casting it out, I'd prefer a casting rod. At the end of the day, having both available for different presentations and different times of the day is nice.

That combo is definitely a great price and the Shock rods are actually pretty decent rods as well and I would imagine the Trion is at least a passable reel as well knowing Pflueger. I'm considering picking one up now just as a second rod to throw jigs, soft plastics, spinnerbaits, paddle tails etc with, or maybe I'll spool that up with braid and put some heavier fluorocarbon line on my current MH/F. The Shock rods do tend to lean towards the heavier side as well, so I think you'll be fine to spool it up with braid and fish a frog on it. I use my MH/F Tatula for frogs, and in the average vegetation it has enough backbone for the job, but I plan to pick up the Tatula frog rod someday. The Shock rods are a little bit heavier but they've never bothered me to be honest.

For my casting rods, 15lb or 17lb gets most use from me. I don't own a boat, so I'm usually fishing in shallow water and the extra strength to pull a fish out of weeds and grass is often beneficial. For finesse I will use 6lb or 8lb, often braid to leader.

For similar baits, I go with 40. It's a little bit light for frogs, but not too bad.

Around 6'9" - 7' is good for bottom contact lures where distance is less of an issue. I like a slightly longer rod, maybe 7'2" to 7'4" for moving baits for extra distance where I really want to get into the target zone but I feel the really long cranking rods are a little bit overkill. Try casting that from the shore and hitting a tree. If I owned a kayak or canoe, I may prefer rods even shorter as they're often easier to manage.

The strengths of the SV spool lie in any bait under 2/5oz. Baits like smaller spinnerbaits, many crankbaits, jerkbaits, non weighted plastics, light jigs, etc all fall within its strengths. That said, you can also use it for heavier baits as well, but if I'm only using heavier baits, I'd save some money and get a CT.

I'm going with a ultra light setup for trout fishing.

5.8:1 might be the perfect speed for a cranking reel, but I've never had a problem with a 6.3:1. I use a SV and I think you will like it. It's particularly great with those lighter lures, and 3/8oz is really the start of the sweet spot on that reel. Given that a lot of crankbaits are around 3/8 or 2/5oz, it's a great choice for a cranking reel.

I picked up a Daiwa BG 2000 for $74 and some change on Amazon. The other reel that is worth considering is the Pflueger Supreme, which can be had right around the same price point on the right day. If you can't find either for $75 and can't spend a little bit more, a Pflueger President should do nicely.

You can try to hold the line in the area it won't catch the bail too, but it's such a finite area (at least on the pro which I think has the same shaped bail) that it's something I really have to pay strict attention to or I'll snag the bail and the line cones up coming off the reel. You can visibly see where the line has to come off to get around the bail on the reel, which wasn't the greatest design. Still, the reel is incredibly smooth for the price point, and works much better with braided line so I'm not complaining.

The great thing about a leader is you can change it out for what you plan to use on any given day! No need to settle for just one leader. If you think you might use a topwater, but also plan to use jigs, tie on a 15 or 17lb mono leader, something strong enough for jig fishing and it'll still float for the topwater. If you plan to be doing mostly spinnerbaits and topwater in clearer water, try 12lb mono, or spinnerbaits and jigs then try 14lb fluorocarbon. You get the idea.

The washer should do it for you. I have a Mitchell 300 Pro, and it has a small line lay issue as well but not major. I think it's in the design or something. The other thing I will mention (which the washer would not fix) is that I seem to lose a lot of loops on my Mitchell and after several casts, the line does seem to creep forward in the process, much worse than with other reels. I only picked it up last year, and my friend's is the same way. The main culprit is the design of the bail leaves a very small gap to hold the line, and without having tiny hands I always rend to hold it forward which pulls the line out at an angle. The other factor is that a larger diameter spool would help. What does help is running braid greatly reduces the number of problems and when you spool it up, always leave at least 1/8" of space on the spool. With some reels, you can give a few extra turns and not have an issue, but this is one where less line is better than more line. I may be off the mark as to the exact nature of the problem you are having, but that is a problem that I have with mine and I find it best to use braid and a leader -- also because of the size of the reel, it gives it superior versatility this way.

I would say it probably depends on how much grass you have to pull them through. If you are looking to fish open waters with 10-12lb line max, the 704cb is probably a good bet. If you might load it up with heavier line when the grass and weeds get thick, get the 705CB. If you want the ultimate cranking experience, get both. I also gather the Dobyns rods run light, so the medium heavy 705CB is probably more like a good solid medium or maybe slightly on the heavier side.

Vanish really is a pretty crappy fluorocarbon. I have used it successfully when I had nothing else and was able to pick it up on the cheap at Walmart by tying it on as a leader and using it for not much more than a day's worth of fishing, but it seems that the line gets brittle as it gets bent with each cast, and after enough casts even in open water it just frays and breaks. If you want a decent good value Fluorocarbon, try the Seaguar InvisX (or even Red Label) or the Berkley Trilene professional grade fluorocarbon. Speaking of which you can get Berkley Trilene Fluorocarbon at Bass Pro Shops buy one get one free right now. That's a much better line and you wouldn't even know it's from the same company.

I do not, but I will say I picked up a St. Croix Mojo Bass Spinnerbait rod, which is MH/MF and it feels almost identical in power and action. I would say it is more of a spinnerbait, deep diver or heavy grass rod, but there is some initial play in the tip which makes it work. Plus since I usually fish shallow, I usually use mono and it's good with the extra stretch. Tackletour did a pretty good review of it. http://tackletour.com/reviewdaiwatat721mhrbg.html They do make a 7'7" M/R model that I have a feeling would be a better fit for crankbaits in open water. I specifically wanted the 7'2" MH/R rod because my intent was to use it for all moving baits since I can only fit so many one piece rods in my car.

My thought is if that setup is in your price range, go for it. Other than maybe the price, I doubt you are going to have any complaints. I doubt you will be able to get a better rod anywhere. If you fish in heavier grass/weeds or prefer weighted soft plastics, you may want to consider a MH/F, but weightless or with light weights, M/XF should be perfect. I use my Tatula 6'10" MH/F rod for soft plastics. I would like to eventually add a M/F or M/XF rod for weightless soft plastics down the road, but I have other fishing gear I want to get first (dropshot rod, heavy frog/jig rod, bass boat).

I use a Daiwa Tatula 7'2" MH/R glass cranking rod for pretty much all of my moving baits. I have also used a M/F rods for moving baits and that works just as well. Both rods have enough power to pull a big fish out of the grass but is not too stiff where you lose the fish. If you only fish cranks in open water, you may want to consider a M/MF rod but I find M/F or MH/MF to be the more universal rod personally. It also lets me rig up something like a jig or soft plastics on one rod, and a spinnerbait or crankbait on the other rod so I can switch quickly as well.

The Tatula SV is definitely worthwhile. I'd also look at the Shimano Curado and the Pflueger Supreme XT as well.

Oh yeah, here is a very detailed tackletour review of the Tatula MH/R glass cranking rod if you're interested. Almost forgot about this. As you see it runs on the stiffer side so is perfect for a spinnerbait. http://tackletour.com/reviewdaiwatat721mhrbg.html

I've noticed most Dobyns cranking rods are rated fast for example although I gather they aren't quite as stiff as they are rated... then there's medium fast rods as well that a lot of people use for cranking rods.

Shimano makes some great reels too. I would probably go Daiwa for the SV spool, but if you decide you are only throwing heavier baits then you may want to consider Shimano as well. You can get a Curado K on ebay for as low as $135 shipped though, which is a few models up so I would personally go that route if I went Shimano.

The Tatula rods are pretty well made and it's going to be extremely hard to beat one for the price, especially the $110-120 you can get them for on Amazon at the right time of the day. As far as a reel I should add that if you ever throw a 3/8oz or smaller spinnerbait which I imagine would be a staple on the new rod, you will like the Tatula SV as the SV spool helps with braking and will minimize backlashes. If you expect to be throwing only baits larger than 3/8oz, then I'd save some money and go with the Tatula CT. Also I run a similar setup as to what I recommended to you. I have the glass MH/R Tatula which I will use 14-17lb mono or fluorocarbon on depending on the season and depth I expect to be fishing and then a 6'10" MH/F Tatula with usually 40lb braid as I use it for frogs, jigs and soft plastics, which I can tie on an appropriate sized leader. Then add a spinning rod and you have most baits covered pretty decently.

It's just a matter of training your thumb to feather the line properly. Also if you are fairly new to the baitcaster, you might want to consider using heavier line until you get the hang of it. Start with some heavy mono, at least 15lbs and work your way down from there. 30lb braid is like using 8lb mono, which is pretty thin. 50lb braid is the equivalent of using 12lb mono, which imo casts pretty well on most baitcasters. Might be a good bet to start with 50lb and work your way down to 40lb. I tend to stick to 40lb line because in colder weather, 30lb braid may dig into the spool and the 40lb line still casts better.

I have the glass version of the Tatula 7'2" MH/R rod paired with a Tatula SV reel. It's a great rod for all moving baits -- actually perfect for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits up to 1/2oz, but isn't too stiff for a crankbait either. I got the rod for around $110 on Amazon and the reel for $135 on ebay and I would buy it again. I would not use it for frogs, jigs and soft plastics and what but Josh said he has a MH/F rod too, so what I would do is load that up with 40lb braid and an appropriate sized leader and use that frogs, jigs and soft plastics (and fish spinnerbaits over 1/2oz on the MH/F rod as well).