Dirtyeggroll

Does anyone have a dock where I could leave the boat for a couple days while the trailer work is being done? Or does anyone have any other simple suggestions for getting the boat off of the trailer?

Great job! That new 250 Pro XS ought to bring that thing out of the water

Fortunately, I have a buddy with the same boat/trailer that has had it done somewhere else and gave me a bunch of pictures. Monte at Harrison said he could do it for a measly $250.

Whaaa???? Somehow, with some maneuvering it barely fits with no mods. I’m still going to take it over to Harrison so they can fabricate it for the swing tongue... but I figured I’d share.

My opinion is to pick a battery that can easily be replaced locally. If it fails, I want to replace it (under warranty), right now so I have the opportunity to salvage the day. Personally, I went with the Duracell 31AGM batteries due to price, availability (Sams and Batteries Plus), warranty 18-30 months and reputation of the manufacturer (East Penn/Deka). Optima batteries in general are easy to find (most auto parts stores/BPS/Cabelas). I know 10 years ago when I was really into minitrucks the Optima battery was the gold standard for running audio and other car electronics systems. When I purchased my boat 18 months ago it had 27AGM BlueTops with a stamp of 4/17 and one failed over the winter while on the charger in Spring of '18 (less than a year old). I can't speak to how the battery was maintenanced, but when I was looking to replace it (and the rest to match age). It seemed there were plenty of equal or better batteries for much less cost. If I weren't going with AGM batteries, I would go to Walmart or O'reilly's/Autozone/NAPA and pick the cheapest battery with the AH and RC that fit my needs. One of the most overlooked components in how long a battery will last is the charger maintenance. Even a "cheap" battery can last a long time (several years) if appropriately kept charged and not overly discharged.

You can get an amazing boat for that budget if you search around a bit. I'd keep it 1995 or newer... But thats just because thats the year my favorite boat maker started making more modern bass boats (bigger deck, better storage layouts, etc). As already stated, in general its best to stay away from wooden transoms, stringers and decks. A fiberglass boat that is truly that (and not partly wood) is going to be less likely to have the issues associated with wood in those places. That being said, there are probably partially wooden boats out there that are in great shape, but if it were me, I wouldn't even mess with it. As a matter of fact, about 18 months ago when I was looking for a boat, it was something I used to exclude boats. Just research whatever boat peaks your interest. As far as motors are concerned, my thought is that the older the motor you get, the more you want something that has generically available parts or manufacturer and is easy to work on. When I was approaching buying a 20 plus year old motor I went about it thinking as if I would eventually have to rebuild the entire thing (which has been the exact opposite case so far, knock on wood).

Put me in coach!

I can only fit about 75% of what I can fit in a normal 3700 box. I cannot fit more in the edge boxes.

I’m now one thin box away from having upgraded to all Plano Edge - darn you!

Unfortunately the design of my trailer doesn’t allow for a swing tongue without some serious fab work. I know a guy in Lincoln, NE that can do it but not before I move and I’m not sure how practical it’ll be to drive out there once I move. Anyone have any trailer fabrication shops they recommend in the area?

Thanks for the words for encouragement. I was just pouting. I’m over it now and have come up with a couple solutions to make the boat fit in the garage. Close on the house on June 2nd and move in on June 5th. Hoping to build a privacy fence in the time between closing and moving. Maybe doing some fishing the week after.

Make a friend with a bass boat.

I know for 100% that the line is getting damaged by being drug over and through rocks. I need something that will stand up to the rocks better. I’ve got some 12 lb Tatsu that ended up being lighter than I want for jigs. I might try that.

I haven’t tried Abrazx for squarebills yet. I did spool it up on one of my jig rods because I couldn’t get Tatsu locally. Any experience with it with squarebills?

I should have made it clear that I have been through several spools of Invizx during this time period. I respool about every month because I go through it so fast because I am retying or breaking off so often. Mostly I want something that sinks. Additionally, in my experience its harder to manage. I might give it a go.

That is a good thought. I go through all of my rods very thoroughly in the bitter-cold months here in Omaha and have never had any cotton snag on the my squarebill rod. But I will check again more thoroughly. Also, I was imprecise when I said “a couple of feet” when referring to where the break occurs. A better description would have been to say there is always line remaining and an in tact knot (sometimes it’s feet and sometimes it’s inches).

It’s been a problem the whole time. I’ve been through several spoils of Invizx. At first I thought it was because I wasn’t checking my line enough, then I thought it was because I was using 10 lb (upped to 12lb) line. It my just be something I have to accept due to the way I fish a squarebill, but I want to explore some other options first.

I did not intend to put forth the idea that I NEVER backlash. As for broaching the idea that someone is a liar, that's something that you might think, but should not say. Couching your replies in an antagonistic manner benefits no one. jj Well if you didn’t say it then I wasn’t calling you a liar ;P. Oh jeez guys - I didn’t mean to offend you, the “liar” comment was somewhat in jest. I’ll do better leave the humor to the face to face interactions where body language and facial expressions can cue such. Please forgive me. It wasn’t meant to be antagonistic per se. In all seriousness, I’m sorry that it came across the wrong way. Yes I agree that I also have few backlashes with good equipment and some practice.

If you say you never backlash or overrun you are either a liar, not taking enough chances with casts in the wind, or not getting enough distance on your casts (haha) I am also running a Curado 70. I don’t have a problem with my knot breaking (uni knot) and with Invizx I don’t have much of a problem with kinking on backlashes. The line always breaks within a couple feet of the knot (based on crankbaits that have floated up after snapping off). It really seems like an abrasion issue.

In my experience Red Label turns to junk with the slightest overrun or backlash. As soon as it gets a chance to kink a weak spot forms and it breaks. Ive tried braid for my finesse/light weight cranks to try to increase casting distance. It just doesn’t stand up to the rocks in my hands. I’m using a Dobyns Champion 705cB. Loading up/give is not the issue. Hmm tried going up from 10-lb and maybe made a difference. Not really too keen on increasing the weight/diameter of line but it might be the only option.

Been using 12 lb Seaguar Invizx for squarebills for about the last 2 years. After snapping off numerous crankbaits with minimal force I am ready to try something new. Yes, I check my line and very often. I liked Invizx because it sinks, has good stretch and is easy to manage. I am not really interested in switching to mono. Anyone have a suggestion for a less fragile fluoro that I can use for squarebills?

Here are my thoughts having just purchased my first boat about 18 months ago. These suggestions are in order of my opinion of priority. 1. Get the biggest boat (longest/widest) you will want/can afford/will fit in the garage or whatever. You can't change this once you buy it. If I were to do it again and had $5k extra to spend on a foot of boat or on electronics, I would pick the foot of boat. You can always add electronics, and they will just get out of date and become cheaper as time goes on. 2. Get the biggest motor the boat is rated for. No one ever complains about having too much power. Its much cheaper to just start with the biggest rather than thinking about repowering in the future. You will unlikely every think "I wish I had gone with the smaller motor." More likely you will at least occasionally think "I wonder what the bigger motor would do." Again, money on motor vs. electronics, I go with motor. 3. Get a trolling motor with spot lock/anchor function. It doesn't appear that the boat you are looking at comes with the option to add a trolling motor with the spot lock/anchor function from the factory. In that case, buy the absolute cheapest trolling motor (or without a trolling motor) and buy a Ghost/Force/Ultrex to have put on it instead. 4. Electronics - if its a must that it comes from the factory with them, then go with the biggest available from the factory (Helix 9 MSI G3N). If not, save the money and get the biggest graph you can afford to add - also, consider what trolling motor you are buying and match manufacturer for integration features. The rest of the information I would follow as suggested by Slonezp. I would say to also prioritize the following: - Swing tongue on trailer - A lot of people swear by a Hot Foot (but its a bout a 50/50 split on opinions), go read about them and determine if its something you want - if it is then also add the Blinker Trim. The Hot Foot is probably the safer option if you get the bigger motor. Happy to help explain any more of my thoughts on the matter if you have questions. Good luck

I do not fish a t-rig with much confidence, but I fish it just like a jig. Maybe thats why. What have you learned thats different?

What exactly was the hypothesis of the experiment? That if you fished 12 hours you would be sore?