Riazuli

Thanks for clarifying, I get all of that - that doesn't mean that gears can't get burned, even quality ones and even from an experienced fisherman. The thread I referenced is a perfect example of that...Daiwa tatula with a guy who seems like he knows what he's doing (but was admittedly under pressure at the time too). The point is, it can happen, and for some cases, the lower gears are a better option. In my case, for my preference and the fish and conditions I'm working with, a lower gear suits me. It's all about being comfortable and having confidence in what you're working with - for some that's high gears in some situations, and for others it's low gears in some situations.

No point in discussing further if you can't acknowledge simple laws of physics. And no one said this was being done at an alarming rate...I simply used an experience from another user as a reference, and in my personal case, the lower gears apply. you say that as if the reel isn't doing any work at times, with no force or friction places upon the gears...

That statement is somewhat flawed, given the physics of gear ratios...lower gear ratio means bigger teeth and more torque vs smaller/thinner teeth (fragile might be a strong word here, but they simply aren't as strong as the gears in a lower ratio gear) and lower torque/more speed with a higher gear - sure, a quality reel with the right approach shouldn't be burning gears easily, but it happens.

The main reason I'm taking multiple setups is so I have multiple power/action rods for versatility and not have to re-tie as much. However, most of my reels are ~6.2 or 3 to 1 ratio. One is a ~7.1 and one is 5.4 for frogging. Now that I think of it though, I wouldn't mind have a high gear/low gear frogging reel so I could bring big fish in with low gear and bring back a frog over mats that are too thick with the high gear.

To each his own. There are mixed opinions in the thread I posted, the guy said he was using his rod but also under pressure for a tourney so who knows. He was using a Daiwa Tatula, so the components were "quality".

I agree with fighting the fish with the rod and not just cranking away without doing that, but I guess my concern is more around what I mentioned before - It's not uncommon that I come across 10+ pound snakehead while frogging where I'm at. The guy in the thread did say he did this catching a bass while using his rod (but also under tourney pressure), but again it's just a perspective to consider. If If I didn't think I'd likely have better chance of catching a snakehead than a bass while frogging where I'm at, I likely would have gone with a higher ratio.

By the way, thought I would post this thread that was part of what led me to go with a low gear ratio vs high for froggin:

Yeah, I did the coupe version - it was 2008-12 and not 06-12. Not sure which version the OP has. There is no rack for the coupe version. The OP did say new car (but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a 2017 or 2018 model or unused). OP, can you specify exact specs for your car? year, model (2dr vs 4dr), etc 2018 shows no rack available (which like someone said could just be because it's new) 2017 does show racks available for both coupe and 4dr versions

If this is only for smaller crankbaits (up to 1/2 oz) and shallow diving, along with your concerns over some of the rods being stiff, I would go with a M/moderate glass composite rod designed for cranking. My main cranker is exactly that, and I love it. The mh/mf may be better suited for a wider range of applications, including heavier lures and tackling vegetation, but for more open water and mainly cranking, the m/m is the way to go. The glass allows for a parabolic bend that will help prevent lures from getting ripped out on a hook set and it helps with casting, while the graphite portion allows for backbone for bringing the catch in. Again, this is primarily for what you mentioned you wanted... With it being your first setup, I personally would suggest something more all around in terms of application (like a M/F given your stiffness concerns or a mh/F depending on what your throwing - such as jigs and spinnerbaits). Mh/mf is well geared for spinner and chatterbaits and heavier cranks, but every rod mentioned can be used for all applications (provided the lure weight stays within the weight range for the most part) - depends on the individual and fishing conditions.

Check out my recent thread asking about this. Lots of great info in there. Disregard the top one... That went to a single comment on the 2nd page and won't delete. You can see I ended up going with 50.

Yeah, I used pool noodles for my sit in kayak that only weighs 50 pounds and ordered the boat roller for my new sit on kayak that is 75 pounds - I will not be using it for that, as I found out about the boat loader for my yakima system afterwards (also the Jaylow system for yakima has a "ramp" for loading the kayak sideways, and not rolling it up the back of the car). The boat roller with be used for my sit in if I decide to use that for something or for a partner. I also would not trust the boat roller (not to be confused with boat loader) with my heavier and newer/nicer kayak. When I looked up Thule racks, it mentioned 2006-2012 accord and had nothing for it, but perhaps we put in different specs or something. @Crankin4Bass Just thoroughly check and make sure whatever you get is compatible with your car. A direct call to confirm is a good idea.

I went the opposite route for a frog reel in terms of gear ratio - I got a revo x winch at 5.4:1 for muscling fish out of heavy vegetation and slop. Some or most are actually likely to be snakehead where I'm mainly kayak fishing, so the 5.4 made sense to me as I've heard horror stories of people burning gears on high ratio reels while try to rip fish out of heavy cover. Seeing as some of the snakehead I'm catching are not unlikely to go over 10 pounds, the low gear ratio was a no brainer. Hope the rod you're making turns out nicely. With the price of blanks you mentioned and your 250 budget, you might be able to find a revo winch (higher end version) on sale and possibly go a little over your budget. The revo x version will surely keep you within your budget - just got mine for 70 on eBay with a coupon (paired with Okuma TCS frog rod). I might have gone higher end if I was thinking I'd be catching more bass on the rod, but with more snakehead on the line this is more of a beat up setup that I'll likely upgrade if it doesn't hold up to the task. Mind you, I'm also a fan of the tatula sv, and recently purchased that for another setup, but I think the revo and revo x winch (along with some other Abu reels) are some of the only freshwater low profile baitcasters with that low of a gear ratio - Saltwater baitcasters tend to offer low ratios. I went with 50 lb braid as I've heard it's better for cutting through pads and such than 65. I wouldn't go under 50 for frogging. H/F (or mag heavy /extra fast) is the way to go for frogging.

With whoever has the best price on what I'm looking for at the time or has the best sale going on. It shifts between BPS, Cabelas, TW, Academy, Dick's, Walmart, and Ebay for the most part.

More like a minute and the effort of cutting, tying, spitting, and then your line eventually getting too short and having to replace a perfectly good spool of braid cause it's too short. I swear by snaps My one recent concern is the strength of snaps. I downsized my snaps all small as I could find em just to at least try to be more covert with my presentation, but with that comes thinner Guage and seemingly flimsier construction. I just ordered a bunch of these from Academy, so I'm hoping they will alleviate some of my concerns: Also, to the OP again (person who made this post), use PUNCTUATION and proper grammar with conjunctions so we can clearly follow what you're saying...I see you're young, and I appreciate your enthusiasm with the sport, but if you want more help, you have to learn how to ask properly (at least close to properly).

I'm sure they made those frog rods just for you

This is what I use, and I love it: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/field-stream-pro-rod-bag-15fnsufsrdbg8ftxxfac/15fnsufsrdbg8ftxxfac

Rods that are labelled "frogging" rods or are specified for frogging by several brands generally range from Heavy to "Mag" heavy and fast to extra fast. I can see how moderate fast action might be better for a quick trigger finger, but the H/F and up is going to do a better job of yanking those fish out of cover (along with a solid hook set). Rule of thumb is to wait a couple of seconds before setting the hook after a hit.

I would make sure whatever rack you go with fits on the accord. Each brand has fit guides on their websites. I'm pretty sure that the Yakima system I got (q towers) was the only one that actually supports my vehicle (2011 scion tc). Thule racks say they don't support a 2006-2012 accord, but not sure about later years. Also as with anything with suction cups, make sure they are lightly wetted and secure before engaging in any strenuous task. But, like I was saying if you go the rack route with bar style boatloader, you won't have to worry about a boat roller - that's just a cheaper alternative.

I suggest Yakima racks based on their suggested fit through their website. They have J style racks (called Jaylow) that have a sort of ramp on each J rack (these get installed on the bar rack system). I agree with J francho that you will need to spend a decent amount for quality which seems to be what you're looking for. The Yakima racks also support a boat loader for easier loading... You're looking at around 500 dollars for everything.. West marine currently has a great sale offering the best prices on Yakima rack systems now, for a couple more weeks I think. Keep in mind, a lot of parts are required for this system. There are the q tower blocks, bars, base pads, q clips, the Jaylow, locks (if you want them), and the boatloader. If you're not willing to go this route, then you might as well go with foam blocks and a boat roller like the sherpa boat roller. Jaylow with racks and boatloader video: Boat roller (If you don't go the Jaylow and racks route)

The new lunkerhunt prop frogs look promising. I grew up on the jitterbug, but the whopper plopper has better action and is more versatile (you can buzz it, pop it, walk it, etc.) For fishing slop/pads, a hollow bodied frog is really the only way to go - aim for the pockets! As far as hook removal, I would invest in some good fishing pliers, and maybe one of those longer hook removal tools.

gotta wet that fuzz!

Thanks guys. I think the trailer hook will take care of what's going on here. Moving forward, I might pick up some chatterbaits without the weed guard for open water, just figured the weedless ones would be more versatile.

Ok, thank you all for your responses. I'm thinking about switching to grub or swimbait trailers, which I have on other colors. I forgot to mention this was a black and blue chatterbait and trailer which I currently only have craws for. That's changing today

Hey everyone, so I'm wondering if any of you feel like the claws on these things come off easily, or if it's fish that are swiping at the claws and ripping them off. I just purchased a load of trailer hooks, so I'm hoping to get rid of that "what if" there. I've gotten plenty of hits on chatterbaits with a grub or craw trailer, but not a single bass - just one monster catfish...go figure lol. I hesitated on the trailer hooks as I have all weedless chatterbaits and I figured the trailer hook would defeat the purpose there. I might use some think mono or thin wire to make the trailer end more weedless.

Yeah, just about everything has it nuances and no reel is going to be perfect for everyone. Part of my enjoyment is trying out different reels and seeing that each has it's strengths and weaknesses... I like tech and the T wing concept is pretty amazing, but where you gain somewhere, you may have to trade off elsewhere at times. I'm sure daiwa figured most of their T wing users wouldn't run line over their finger when reeling in... As for the metanium, I just tried mine today for the first time on the water... That thing is going to spoil me, I can tell. I kinda wish the met plate stayed on like the Curado K's as I don't want to lose it if it happens to fall out of my hand while kayak fishing... I likely won't be changing internal settings much that way, and if I do, it's near the deck! Small complaints for an otherwise amazing reel.