Riazuli

I just started using both as well - they are great reels but the main factor for me is the feel of the Curado centrifugal brakes vs the SV magnetic ones. The magnetic ones are easier to adjust and more forgiving on backlashes, but I have to say that the Curado feels better on the cast. The SV is still very smooth, but it does have this mushy (I guess you could say magnetic) feel, where the curado feels more natural to me. It's hard to go wrong here, but I think if you're able to cast them both through a friend or something, you'll get a clearer picture of the difference. If I personally had to pick one, it would be the SV but only because I already have other Shimano reels and this is my first daiwa. If I did not have those reels, I'd say the Curado as I like the casting feel better. Both are very smooth on the retrieve. You already mentioned you're not a beginner... I would also say the SV is better suited for beginners given the ease of changing brake settings and forgiveness on backlashes. (just noticed you're going with the SV - Like I said before, can't really go wrong here). Enjoy!

Yes, definitely - I think what had me going with lighter on the Curado was that the rod is MF as opposed to the metanium rods being M/M and MH/F. Anyhow, once my settings were straight, the Curado casted the worm really well.

Hey everyone, I've been waiting forever to do this - finally took my new fishing kayak out (Feel Free Lure 11.5 which I am in love with!). It is what I was waiting for to break out my new setups purchased over the winter months. I've been an avid bass fisherman my whole life, but only carried one setup with me for a good 20 years - a quantum ac500pt baitcaster on a bps bionic blade (6'6" M/F). That setup is still going strong after some winter tlc but now gracefully retired. Only last summer after getting back into bass fishing full on, did I purchase a second setup - a used version of my quantum and a used bionic blade, this time a MH/F (I wanted the same models/years/style). Well, needless to say, I really embraced the sport as I did when I was a child, and moved on to purchase some nicer equipment this winter, during sales and plenty of online shopping around. Here's what I ended up with along with reviews from my outing today: 1. Shimano Metanium 100 on a Shimano Expride 170MGA - 7' Glass composite Cranker; What can I say, this thing is a dream upgrade. Definitely my smoothest reel, casts effortlessly, and just a joy to use. With fishing being one of my main past times and way I rejuvenate for work and school, this was an investment worth making, and I'm so glad I did! I'm a big fan of the centrifugal braking system that Shimano has - feels more natural and smooth. Definitely different than magnetic braking, and once it's tuned, it's super smooth. The rod and reel combo felt like my lightest setup, but that could have also had to do with the balance, which is amazing. Slung my the lipless cranks I was using (1/2oz) the furthest I've ever casted that lure in that weight. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have more questions about this combo. Strung up with sufix 832 #30, which is an excellent line that casts super smooth - was super windy today so had a couple backlashes due to liberal tuning but the line barely dug in and was easy to fix. I had been using original Power Pro #30 on my old setups which is a strong and durable line, but does dig in more than the sufix. 2. Shimano Metanium 100 on a BPS Johnny Morris Signature series 7'2" MH/F. Well I've already told you about the reel, but I'm also in love with this combo. I had to get the JMSS to stay true to the power hump I've used for almost 20 years on the bionic blade. The JMSS is a decent upgrade from that with better blanks, and it is super light and comfortable. I had to have one power hump rod in my lineup! This rod loads more like a Moderate Fast, which I am really happy about as I was using it with a heavier, 3/4 lipless - again, this combo casts and performs amazingly! 3. Shimano Curado HGK on Shimano Curado rod - 6'10" MF. I had to pair these two together - how could you go wrong here? At first, I was concerned that I would be spoiled by my Metaniums and not end up liking this reel, but it is somewhat different. It is still smooth - not as smooth as the Metanium of course, but it's a great reel nonetheless. I'm really at odds between which one I like more, this or my Daiwa Tatula SV 103H that I'll review in a bit. I like that the side plate stays connected...definitely felt more comfortable adjusting it while on my kayak on a windy day than my Metaniums - talk about nerve wrecking lol. With it being so windy, I had to move my internal breaks to 3 versus my Metaniums which were on 2; however, I was also using a plastic worm with a weighted hook, so it was lighter and had more drag for the wind to carry. I was back lashing at first, but after setting internal brakes to 3, I was good to go. I think it can be said that the Metanium is an upgraded version of the Curado - both are very similar in look and feel with the Metanium being smoother and with better performance - and rightfully so. Am I glad I got the Curado? You bet I am...especially along side its counterpart rod. It's hard to compare to the looks of the Metanium and Expride combo, but the Curado combo is one of the best looking setups in my opinion. Super light setup (maybe not as balanced and as light as my Met combo's, but for the price it performs well). Hard to be disappointed with this one. 4. Daiwa Tatula SV 103H on a Dobyns Fury 705CB - so glad I got this setup! I feel like these two are a great match. I wanted a MH/MF setup (7') for chatterbaits/spinnerbaits mainly (and heavier cranks if need be) and with the SV in the mix, this fit the bill perfectly. Casted my chatterbait well with wind over 10mph and gusts up to 20mph. Granted, I wasn't casting into the wind, but I wasn't always casting with the wind either. The reel setup is super easy with just an outside dial to work with. I will say, as I mentioned before, the magnetic brakes on this are definitely different from the centrifugal ones on the Shimanos. They have more of a mushy or spongy (magnetic) feel, which is the best way I can describe it. Regardless, this setup was super smooth, and just ideal for chatterbaits. I paired the SV here, because I figured the SV braking system would be a good match for the higher drag baits I planned to use. I don't think I back lashed once with this setup, but I was also playing it conservatively with this one given I was using a skirted bait in high winds. When the wind dropped I was able to go down to 6 on the brakes, and averaged around 8. I might have been able to go lower, but didn't want to push it too much with the conditions. I've heard so many good things about Dobyns rods, I had to have at least one in my new lineup - they make amazing rods - light, sensitive, and high quality. Again, very happy with this purchase. 5. Abu Garcia Revo X Winch on an Okuma TCS Frog/Swimbait rod (7'3" H/F). This is my dedicated frogging setup and also reserved for punching mats. Spooled with original Power Pro #50. This one surprised me, guys. I wasn't sure how this one would perform, given the price difference from my other setups, but it casted just as far as my other setups today - this was with a 3/4 jig, however. Still though, it casted very well with no backlashes and I feel confident with this setup for heavy vegetation and pulling big ones out of it. A lot of people might wonder why I went with such a low gear ratio - I feel more confident with this setup as it is more likely I'm catching 10+ lb snakehead on this in heavy vegetation, and I just wanted a very low gear setup in my arsenal (will double as a deep cranker). The heavy rod performed well, and slung the 3/4 oz jig effortlessly. The reel wasn't as smooth as the others, but for the price, it did just fine. Happy with this setup as well! Well, that's what I have for now. I may edit this later as I try them some more, and might add some calm weather comments. If anyone has any specific questions for a reel, rod, combo, or comparison, please do not hesitate to ask!

If it is sitting flush and the switch won't latch, then that's the issue...the switch is not catching whatever bracket it holds on to. Something may be bent there. When it is open and you move the switch, do you see like a blade or pin moving inside attached to the switch? If the problem isn't whatever is directly attached to the switch then it is where the switch latches on.

Seems like you've tried just about everything.. My guess is there is something bent or broken somewhere - although something could just be stuck. I would check to see where things connect and see if there is a spring or something out of place or in the way

The first frog I really liked was the booyah poppin pad crasher... I moved on to the lunkerhunt popping frog because it looks more natural, but might still buy the booyah...I've tried the new lunkerhunt prop frog, and I'm a fan of that as well - that would be used more in places where you'd use a whopper plopper as it has a trailer hook that is likely to get hung up around vegetation.

Thank you! At first some of it may seem like a hassle, but after some time it just becomes a natural part of your routine and second nature... Makes for a more enjoyable fishing experience

Yea it is, good suggestion - I definitely considered that. I know mine had nothing to do with my knots (which were uni), based on where the line broke and how the line dug in. The condensed version also great additional suggestions

I'm not really having the issues these days, thanks to following the steps I layed out, but I am curious about this high-speed level wind - never heard of it before. Pretty much all I use now is daiwa and shimano (along with one Abu winch). I'm not interested in modifying the Mets I have, but might consider the Curado K or Tatula SV if I notice something there (also now really considering for my older quantums, which I might still use now and then-and if the part is available) Will be looking into that some more - thanks for the suggestion!

was looking for a face palm, but that will do...just advice from someone who has been in your shoes before - slow down a little. In fishing and in life. The emoji is just a joke, but to be entirely honest with you, the way we present ourselves is often the way we are received. It doesn't take all that much effort to put some punctuation here and there so that what you're saying actually makes sense and doesn't just come off like some mumbo-jumbo from someone who has had too much caffeine. Practice makes perfect (and it doesn't need to be perfect, just reasonable enough to get your point clearly across)

Hey everyone, I had been having a lot of issues with braid since last summer and have come up with the following suggestions for anyone having similar issues related to: braid digging in and snapping on the cast or at least getting random backlash and the lure stopping dead in the air. - this an updated guide I posted before as I've seen a lot of people on different forums having these issues. Braid doesn't really stretch like mono or fluorocarbon line does. If there are any kinks or the braid has dug in to the spool from a previous backlash, lure getting snagged and pulling hard on the line, catching a large fish, etc., it can snap from too much force applied. This can send your lure flying...but with no line attached. I probably lost a handful of lures before making all of the proper adjustments, so I feel your pain if this is happening to you. This can even happen with 30lb+ braid, but the chances are slimmer than with thinner braids of course. Here are the steps to consider: 1. What kind of braid and what strength are you using? A lot of people recommend 30lb test and up to prevent digging in due to larger line diameter, but this all really depends on brand and type. I'm a big fan of original power pro 30lb, as it has been working well for me after switching from 15 lbs on two of my reels. My other two reels are being outfitted with sufix 832 at 30lb test, which I've heard a lot of good things about in terms of smoothness, strength, and durability. Some guys are happy with lower test braid, and I've seen a few guys say they use 20lb test comfortably. I'm perfectly happy with 30 lbs and might even go higher for my froggin/slop setup. 2. When you tie on a different lure, are you checking your line for dig in spots/kinks and are you readjusting or at least considering your brakes and tension knob? If you switch from a worm to a spinner bait and the wind just started to pick up, you just might get a backlash and lose that spinnerbait. I often start spinnerbaits at brakes set to 2 (especially if it's windy) and tension knob set to a slow fall. I think it's a good idea to readjust brakes and tension knob after any lure change - I usually keep the brakes on 1 and only set to two if it's windy or if I'm using a high wind drag lure like a spinnerbait/chatterbait/something else wide (and even just every so often without changing lures as your tension knob can get looser over time). 3. Check your line every so often. Pull out a few yards after casts every now and then to clear the line from any overrun. When reeling the extra line back in or loose line in general, it can help to hold the line in order to get a tight and even spooling. Pay attention to your spool every now and then before casts. This whole process doesn't have to become a nerve wrecking ordeal either - I've got a system down where it just feels to be a natural routine in my fishing and I can say I feel much better than having to fix backlashes all the time or watching $5-10 (more or less) fly into oblivion with a hopeless jaw drop. 4. Increase casting distance and power gradually from when you start and when you put on new lures, and just every so often. I'll start off with a short and easy cast of say 10 yards, and then gradually increase it to 15, 20, 30, etc. This helps to ensure that you're clearing the line effectively instead of going for a 30+ yard cast right away, only to run into a kink or dig in and lose a lure in the process. Also, general reel maintenance is key to smoothness and castability. Keep those reels cleaned and lubed as needed! Also, keep casts smooth and never swing it like you're trying to hit a home run - that's a good way to lose a lure. 5. An additional tip that is not absolutely necessary, but can help with smoothness, preventing backlash, and overall castability is using a line and lure conditioner the night before fishing. I use kvd L&L conditioner every now and then and this really helped me while I was getting into the groove of my routine. Now that I've got things down, I don't feel I need it as much, but is still nice to use every now and then. Using LLC the night before can be more forgiving if you forget to implement the above tips right away when starting your day. I hope that helps for anyone running into this issue. Tight lines and good luck out there!

Thanks for the tip, again. Luckily, I've got a wide selection of gear ratios to work with for whatever suits my particular needs. I hope yours works out well for you!

I think I should clarify again, that it's possible I'm catching close to 15lb snakehead where I'll be using my only low (5.4) gear setup in a low profile freshwater baitcaster (in very heavy vegetation/slop at that). I've got higher gears for other setups.

Kvd LLC doesn't soften line, but rather bonds throughout and on it to form a protective water resistant layer. It's actually intended to use for pretty much all parts of rod, reel (not for lubrication but outside protection), and line. It seemed to work really well with the Eva foam handles I put it on. I plan to do that. I was thinking more along the lines of conditioning/protecting it. I think the KVD LLC fits the bill perfectly.

I went ahead and just used a little KVD line and lure conditioner - it soaked in a little (at least at the surface), which I'm content with.

Hey everyone, I'm conditioning the cork on all my rods, and it doesn't seem like it would be a good idea to use this stuff on the foam parts of some of my handles as the cork sealer is pretty thick... Would KVD line and lure conditioner be a good conditioner for foam handles? What do you all use?

I just recently bought a Curado K and a tatula sv, but haven't used them yet. I'll let you know in a week

I like your thought process here but just to play devil's advocate, there are some times where value (maybe more so than worth) could be considered - especially when you are looking at two reels within the same brand that are say 50 bucks apart with few significantly discernible differences, but where the lower priced reel might actually cast further but the higher priced reel is smoother on the retrieve and cast. Still involves a subjective approach, but I think in that case a lot of people could say it's not worth getting the more expensive reel. Still involves personal preference of course, but perhaps a bit different than wondering if a st. Croix avid is worth getting over a mojo bass (if money weren't a factor). I know that last part might seem like it doesn't make sense, like how can worth apply if money isn't a factor, but the reel example I gave I think fits that bill. Another aspect of value (again maybe more than worth) is comparing a reel that costs 200 dollars and has say a 90% performance rating, where a $500 reel has a 95% performance rating (just hypothetical). There might be a stronger argument on worth there, where many might say it's not worth getting the much more expensive reel for little gain, outside of cases where money isn't an object and someone who is a reel enthusiast, collector, etc. wants to try just about everything out. Not really trying to debate here, just adding my thoughts to a thought provoking subject.

I'll be pairing my recently purchased tatula sv with a dobyns FR 705cb when it comes in on Monday - can't wait! I considered going higher end on the rod, but this will be more of secondary rod to my main cranker. I'll likely use it more with spinnerbaits and chatterbaits, along with heavier cranks (over 1/2 oz).

Now, THERE is a response and explanation I can live with. Thank you! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for, and the picture diagram explains it perfectly - I actually did an admittedly short search for something like that with no luck. So, using a metanium 100 or really any other low profile baitcaster as an example - do the sizes of the reels actually vary within a series? Like does a met100 hg vary in overall reel frame size from a met100 xg? (I imagine the actual frame might not need to vary in size, but somehow they are able to vary the size of gears within the frame). Also, yes I am more referring to power, and as you can see I clarified several times that the torque was the main thing I was considering, with my thought about teeth just being an additional factor. I did think about gears varying in width, but then wondered about reel sizes changing within a single series of reels.

Try to be patient and don't get too frustrated...doing the opposite usually results in more issues. If you get a backlash, or other issue, figure out what's going on before you start fuming and make more errors. Slow down - yourself and your retrieve if you need to. Don't expect to catch a fish - always have the desire and intention, but not the expectation. The more you fish, the more likely it is you will catch a fish.

No need for name calling...your comment is also out of scope, so pretty ironic that you would say that. Your comment about what gear has more teeth also doesn't make a point that's relevant here. Can you explain the difference in a gear between the low, medium, and high gear ratio for a single series/model? I am not comparing microprecision gearing to regular gearing, but gears within the same series of reel for a reasonable comparison... For example a metanium 100 hg compared to the xg version, both with microprecision gears. Lower gear ratios (at least within the same reel series) are stronger for a reason...what is that reason, seeing as you seem to be educated about this?

School and work. Will get to go next week

Can you explain how you fit more or less teeth on to a gear without changing the size of them? I am comparing the same reel model with different ratios.

relative to the same reel it does - I was attributing torque more to the gear ratio and not the teeth necessarily - that was just an additional factor to consider.