Crow Horse

That's a brilliant idea!!!

Not ground breaking, but I cobbed this together. I fish from a yak and in shallow water. Hopefully I won't need to use it but I rarely get snagged where I fish. That said, I don't want to be tossing 110's and not have a method of retrieving one that might get snagged. I used a dive finger spool reel that connects to the weight. I PlastiDipped the weight.

Most budget sit in yaks are notorious for having really poor seats. Mine was no exception and I quickly upgraded the seat to a high back model which gave good back support but still lacked an adequate seat cushioning. I added a coccyx pillow which worked great and allowed my to fish in comfort for 8 hours or more without issue. The problem with the coccyx cushion is that the fabric cover is less than robust. I was gifted another cushion that was better but my cats decided to try their paws at upholstery work which didn't end well. I used Shoe Goo to fill all the holes they created and once cured, I sprayed the entire cushion cover with PlastiDip. It improved the appearance, provides some water resistance, and strengthens the fabric, I haven't tested it yet but I'm pretty confident that it will wear well.

This is so choice. It's a keeper. Thanks!

Here are several items I use to help my old fingers tie, serve or set knots.

Nailed it. I think this sums it up best.

Another variant to your example is that the worker in your example is an extraordinarily skilled worker and is head & shoulders above an average worker, and thus worth paying 50% more. Employers don't always recognize the skill level of an employee or better stated, recognize their true worth. Some do but in my experience that isn't the norm. It depends on the company's focus/business model - premium quality or production. They'll say they want both but that's a pipe dream......

It seems that there's a natural corporate evolution to a regression/reversion to mean. It occurs in many industries and mediocrity flourishes.

I always found it a bit odd when some anglers would complain about lure prices. Some will shell out $20K to $30K for a bass boat, then $50K-$60K for a ride to tow it with and then be price conscious when eyeing a $15 (or more) lure. I understand that everyone's discretionary income is different and have different priorities. I too try to find the best buys to save some loot but when I can't, I put my big boy pants on and shell it out. It's just the price to play. To be clear, I'm not criticizing those who have badass bass boats and the rigs to tow them. Whatever makes your boat float. Personally, it's not my style. However, I don't dwell on the cost of lures. I posted this in another thread and it give's a peek at how (presumably high end) lures are made. Mass Producing Lures In Japan

If at one point you decide to make a change in your rigging and have holes to fill, there are some simple options depending on where the hole(s) are. They make plastic button plugs that just push into the hole to fill it and give a neat appearance. Filling them with silicone works but doesn't look as clean. You can weld the holes, sealing them but that is a little more involved but works. I replaced my foot pegs with ones that had a different fastener pattern. I welded the vacant holes closed and all was well.

On your maiden voyage, take a roll of tape and a marker. You can mark where you wish to position any modifications more accurately than relying on memory when you get home. A third suggestion is to tell someone where you'll be and when you expect to return. I also suggest to allow for future upgrades. This is really difficult unless you have a crystal ball or know a psychic. Needs change and try if you can to anticipate them if possible.

Treat your environment with respect. Treat it as if it was the holiest of holy and know that you are a guest in it. Saturate your senses with all the messages that nature privies you to. Listen carefully and know that your time on the water is just an excuse to reconnect, recalibrate, and recharge. Leave wherever you are better than when you arrived. Always have gratitude and give thanks for the privileged of experiencing Creation to the higher power of your understanding. Learn and understand all the lessons presented. The thin veneer of obvious meaning has many deeper levels of understanding. Have fun. If that is difficult, just imagine if feathers tickled birds..... Duck when the lead flies.....

I found this video interesting because it conflicts with the scientific studies that have been presented. I'm not leaning that they are sensitive to UV & IR light until I see compelling evidence. **Edit - However, I'm leaving the door open to that possibility....

What Bass Can See - Part 2 (science, speculation, & ancedotal evidence)

I feel the same way but those wild colors don't always look as wild to a bass as they do to us. Chartreuse appears near white to a bass....

Adding to the mix (or confusion)....... Trichromatic vs (simulated) Dichromatic (blue blind - Tritanopia) Other variables to consider: water depth, water clarity, light source intensity, angle of light source......

I've been fascinated (more like hypnotized) by the vast array of Megabass paint options. This interest had me curious about what and how bass actually see in the water. Before I go any further, I make no pretense of being any kind of expert (on any subject ) but I am perpetually curious about things. Mr. Science mode on...... From my reading, we as humans have trichromatic vision (cones sensitive to red, blue, green) and bass are dichromatic (cones sensitive to red & green) yet the visual light spectrum for bass is wider than humans, extending into the UV & IR ranges. If the above is true, I was curious about if any of the paint finishes touch in those areas (UV & IR) and if so, then how much? What I do know is that the characteristics of the pigments used in paints do vary even from batch to batch comparisons of the same color. With that in mind, I had my wife, who works for a major paint manufacturer and is responsible for quality control, run 2 different Megabass 110's, one a GG Perch OB & a Mat Perch. on a X-Rite vs450 spectrophotometer. The results were disappointing. Unfortunately, this particular spectrophotometer (or it's software) is set up to plot only the visible light spectrum of humans (400-700nm) and I was hoping for a wider spread. Despite that, I though it was interesting to see the differences in the two similar but different finishes. For the record, I'm not suggesting that a spectrophotometer should be in everyone's tackle box. It was available and I thought, "why not"? Below is the resulting graph from the spectrophotometer....

They're sold under several names - low profile, Cobra, and safety tie raps. The small ones that you probably use are 18-22#'s & the larger ones are 50-60#'s. Like you mentioned the tag end is parallel with the main part. Flush cut, the tag end is smooth.

Cobra/low profile tie raps ??

Many times during a retrieve & pause, I'll hold the line in between my fingers & watch the line.

I'm using 2 Nocqua 10ah batteries. One is dedicated to a FF and Gopro & remote. The other just handles another Gopro. One of those batteries finished it's 7th season of use. I'm really glad that I got them. They are very light.

If the Carbon X II in the 1000 size performs (quality wise) like it's bigger brother in the 3000 size, I think you'll be very happy with it. It would be great if spare spools were easily available, but I'm told it will be several months for them, according to Piscifun. They used to be available for the Carbon X 3000 but not now.

Just arrived is a Piscifun Carbon X II 3000 spinner to add to my arsenal. I'm a fan of these reels and especially like that they are so light. This is #7 Carbon X (and II's) 3000. Very smooth and they have held up really well. The only drawback is parts availability, but for me that hasn't been an issue.

Why not a separate new purchase rod & reel monkey thread? It seems that this would be a simple solution and there wouldn't be any ambiguity.