Lead Head

I'm not seeing how I would need to replace the main gear for a worm gear swap. Maybe I'm calling the part the wrong name. Its the gear that the pawl rides on. Either way I'm pretty sure its good I was just looking into replacing it because the pawl was so bad. I was able to salvage 2 frame screws (actually side plate screws) and the washer from a junk reel. All I really need is the pawl, but I would really like to have the screw that goes behind the spool. If anyone knows where I could find a pawl that will fit it would be greatly appreciated. All the advice to sell/replace/scrap the reel is appreciated, but I understand what I'm working with here and that is not what I'm trying to do.

I'm trying to get this reel up and running for a buddy. I definitely need a pawl (possibly a worm gear), the flat washer that goes above the curved washers (spring washers?), and all 3 frame screws. Specifically the frame screw that goes behind the spool. I don't have a schematic and can't find one anywhere online. I have tried calling outdoor world reel repair but 5 attempts have only gotten me to a voice mail with no return call. I know this reel has a lot of parts that are interchangeable with reels I might actually be able to find a schematic for and order parts. Can any of you guys help me out?

Lol, as insistent as the Bait Monkey is, he don't have anything on the Gear Gorilla. He comes busting through walls like the Kool-aid Man and starts beating his chest like King Kong. My wife has given up trying to chase him away with sticks and knives, she has taken up firearms now...

Just a thought here... Fat cork on the handle shouldn't impact how a reel palms at all. When you palm the reel, you aren't in contact with the handle, you are holding the reel and reel seat. That's how it is for me anyway.

When using a leader on a casting setup, I keep my leader at about 6'. I never want it "inside" my reel. In my opinion, thats just asking for problems. The T-wing is notoriously unfriendly when it comes to leaders. Having said all that, perhaps you can get it to work. What works for you is all that really matters. Plenty of people dislike the very thought of leaders on baitcasters, but I have had great success fishing that way for awhile now.

It is unlikely you will be able to notice a significant difference in those reels when actually fishing. Maybe the 7 compared to the 8s but still probably not much. I would use the 7 for the rod that would see the most moving baits, and match the 8s up based on fit/feel (or even cosmetics) and fish.

It can certainly be addictive when its just for personal use.

There is ALWAYS something else out there that you want to try. If you really want to get your mind blown by possibilities start building your own rods. Near limitless possibilities for blanks combined with the ability to customize to your personal preferences leaves you wanting to try everything. It did me anyway...

I typically use braid about 2 years, turn it around and use it 2 more before replacing it. Occasionally ill get into some rocks or up against some metal that will force me to turn or replace it sooner. Doesn't happen all that often because ill use a leader if I know I'm going to get into rocks. I don't use straight FC or mono very much, but when I do I'm quick to change it if I feel cover or a backlash has compromised it in any way. I did keep FC (14lb sniper) on a crankbait rod for 2 years before replacing it one time. KvD line conditioner solved all my line memory issues.

How I fish bottom contact (jig/t-rig).

When you are "pinching" the line in front of the reel, make sure your pinch point is centered with the reel. I would be willing to bet your pinch point is slightly to the left when you get the uneven line lay (as MN Fisher was suggesting). Nothing wrong with gently pinching line for extra sensitivity, but its really only going to be helpful when fishing bottom contact baits. In my experience, most strikes on moving baits aren't subtle enough that touching the line will make any difference. Look into Winn wrap if you want a beefier handle, its made for fishing rods.

In my experience most M and ML rods will have enough give that ripping hooks out of bass isn't a problem even with a fast action and braid. Not all rod manufacturers "mh" and "fast" are the same, so not knowing that, it is difficult to give accurate advice. For example, I would not hesitate to use braid for topwater on a mh/f dobyns, but I would on a mh/f st. croix. With the information given, I would suggest you use a quality mono and don't worry about the rest. You didn't say you were experiencing hooks ripping out, only that you heard it could happen. If these are spinning setups, that changes things. I would suggest braid to mono leader and don't worry about the rest.

Sounds like something Daiwa SV would be your best bet. 1. Top quality, but not shimano. 2. Handles wide range of lure weights well (including lighter stuff) and isn't BFS specific. 3. Wide range of aftermarket spools if you do want it to be more specific later on. The alphas is a great choice.

I have a lot of luck with a heddon spit-n-image. It can walk really fast and often produces when a slower "normal" walking bait don't.

For me, nothing beats a 5" grub, usually white, but sometimes black, chartreuse, or green pumpkin. I use a menace on occasion, but the big grubs have been more productive.

I find it far easier to speed up when needed than slow down. When using a 6 for t-rigs i notice it is slower than a 8, but its not much of a inconvenience. When I tried using a 7 or 8 for moving baits, the second I lost complete focus on my retrieve I would be screaming the bait way too fast. So for me, if I only had 1 reel and had to choose between spending a extra second getting my bottom contact lure back for another cast, and completely spoiling a good presentation, I would spend the extra second getting a lure in every time. Most of my bottom fishing is shorter casts anyway so I'm likely losing fractions of a second. For me, frog fishing is about the only presentation that would be annoying with a slower reel, even then it wouldn't spoil any casts, just annoy me get back the lure on long casts. This is all my personal experience, some people have no trouble slowing way down with fast reels... I'm not one of them.

7'2" ML fast rainshadow Immortal with microwave guides and winn grips. Have a 3000 Kastking Zephyr (its actually smaller than a Daiwa crossfire 2000) on it with 15lb 832 and a 14lb sniper leader. This thing handles a 1/15th ned weight with a standard TRD perfectly.

My best guess... at some point, that part of the leader is overlapping and coming into contact with your snap. Just a guess, but when you are trying to get down into pads (especially considering your wading and not up high) ill bet your setup falls at some pretty odd angles.

One of the biggest benefits of braid while frog fishing is the hookset. While not impossible, it is far more difficult to collapse a frog and get those giant hooks in a fish with stretchy line. I have talked to 2 people who claimed that "frogs aren't worth the trouble" because their hookup ratio was so bad. Both were using mono. I convinced 1 of them to try braid and now he loves frogs.

Coppertruse and Hot Snakes are by far my most successful colors. I have done really good with Hot Snakes when they are targeting bluegill.

Super fluke Heddon Spittin Image (can be walked FAST) Grub on a jighead

I was in a similar situation. I had 2 BPS extreme rods (green) that I loved. When I started building my own rods, I both wanted to replace them and didn't want to give them up. I ended up stripping them down to bare graphite and rebuilding them. I kinda miss the power hump, but they are much lighter and perform better now. I can now say that I built all the rods on my deck, and still get to use the old BPS rods I like so much. That won't solve your reel dilemma, and stripping a rod (especially one of those) is no small task, but it worked for me.

YES! Though I haven't had to cut one out in years, ill still end up with one that needs to be "picked" out nearly every trip (depending on what I'm focusing on).

Dobyns rods run almost a power light. Depending on the cover you fish and the rod you already purchased, you might want to adjust accordingly.

@Tatsu Dave I know you usually do your research, but since you mentioned you never use braid ill throw this out there. Not all knots will work with braid. Many good mono/floro knots will slip straight out with braid. I like a uni (twice through the eye) and many swear by the Palomar. In either case I don't think "burning" line is a issue with braid. Also consider a leader when in rocks or coming through wood. Braid is noisy coming over wood and while you can haul logs and sever fingers pulling straight with the stuff, a sharp rock will cut it like butter.