Mobasser

Topwater weedless spoons. Most folks have gone to toads and frogs to fish over thick weeds. I still like the Johnson Silver Minnow, and a white Heddon Moss Boss.

The trailer I like is 4" long. I just thread it onto the hook, and use it like that.

I use the Silver Minnow. I like it in the hottest part of summer, when weeds are the thickest. I like the chrome model, with a Zoom twin tail trailer.

These pics are cool. The removed weedgaurds model is basically a shakey head, from.1966. Great info! It goes to show that as much as we think something is new in bass fishing, it's probably not. It's more than likely been done before. Sometimes, years before.

I actually know where the old Mar Lynn building is in Blue Springs Mo, a suburb of Kansas City. Agree they made several jigworms. I have a few, with a plastic Y werdgaurd. Our modern shakey heads are hot rodded versions of these old baits. I've also seen this type of Y weedgaurds on some small " Catch Am Quick " worms made in Indiana.

I've been doing some expermenting with shakey head jigs, switching between those, and my standard t rig. I've got four different heads, Owner screw lock, Big Bite Baits screw lock, Strike King Pro heads, and Big Bite baits, standard round heads. What I've found since trying these styles is its made no difference in numbers caught between screw lock or standard style. Both hold the worm on well. Another thing, it's also made no difference in using a floating worm, as opposed to one that lays over when the jig is at rest on the bottom. Most all the fish strike on the fall, after a slight lift off the bottom. I've also caught very few bass by " shaking " the worm in place or during the retrieve. All have been caught with a slow, lift drop retrieve. I have caught more bass on heads with a forward line tie, and, it seems like a size 3/0 hook is best for 4" and 6" worms and 3" craw baits. A 4/0 hook works also, but I can't see ever needing a bigger hook. With baits like a Zoom Trick or Finesse worm, I've been cutting back the head around 1/8" to give a flat surface to snug up against the jig head. The Strike King heads have a bigger barb on the hookshank. With some baits, this may cause the worm to swell when you slide it over the barb. A pair of sidecut pliers will trim back the barb slightly if this looks wrong, but I havnt noticed that it makes a difference in fish caught. What I've found that makes the most difference is rigging the worm as straight as possible, and when inserting the hook, push the hook through to form a small channel, then back it out a little, and reinsert the hook again. This seems to make hook setting a little easier, especially with some thicker plastics. All these heads have a good quality Gama hook, and most fish stay hooked well. When shakey head fishing became popular years ago, I remember thinking" what's the big deal"? With different shaped heads, and top quality hooks sized for bass, it's an improved version of a jigworm, which was popular years ago here in the Missouri Ozarks, and Im sure other parts of the country also. Shakey heads can be deadly at times, and along with a t rig, are a great way to fish plastic baits along the bottom. What shakey jigs are you throwing these days, and, have you found any of my own observations to be true for your shakey head fishing?

Light t rig with 4" or 6" plastic worm

I love all classic country music. I heard it a lot growing up, from my parents and grandparents. J Cash, Hank Sr, Bill Monroe, Glasser Bros, early Waylon, all are favourites. I still listen to all of them.

You'll be fine with the Black Max and the rod you bought. Should work good. Good luck in your tournament!

I've used the Bitsy Bug for years. I.like them in fall, cooler water, with a small zoom chunk or trimmed down 3" craw as a trailer. Blk/blue has been my best color.

True. We've all had a fish pick up a plastic bait, then just sit there. You don't feelanything, or see any line movement. It the fish starts to swim away, a strike becomes obvious. The tricky thing is, we never know how they'll react on any given day This is why I think fishing a plastic craw or jig/craw style bait is more tiring than say, casting a spinnerbait or trap. It becomes tiring with all the focus you need to be good at it. Staring at your line where it enters the water, and trying to feel the really light hits can ware you out after a few hours. This is why I think fishing a plastic craw or jig/craw style bait is more tiring than say, casting a spinnerbait or trap. It becomes tiring with all the focus you need to be good at it. Staring at your line where it enters the water, and trying to feel the really light hits can ware you out after a few hours.

I've had the best luck with the larger Flukes by fishing them weightless. Cast, let them sink slowly, and give them a snap. Most of the strikes have come after the snap, while the lure is falling. Think helpless dying baitfish- an easy target for the bass.

Agree. It seems like the slow" drop" on the initial cast or pitch with craw baits is when the bite will come. These also seem to be the lightest strikes. Sometimes you don't feel anything, and don't know you got bit untill you lift the rod slightly. So many guys probably miss a lot of these strikes over the course of a trip. By the time they realize they got bit, the bass has blown out the bait, gone.You really need to be on your toes. I'm sure I've missed many over the years myself. That one factor of strike detection, to me, is what separates the good jig fisherman from the rest. It's tough, and takes some time and practice to learn. That one factor of strike detection, to me, is what separates the good jig fisherman from the rest. It's tough, and takes some time and practice to learn.

I've never used any bobber stops, but have used a brass and glass rig. 8mm glass bead and painted brass sinker. I've used this rig mostly in off colored water, to add a click sound, with craw and plastic worms. Right now, my lake is pretty clear, so I havnt used it for a while.

A 4" plastic worm, or minnow shaped plastic bait. Rig them t rig or on a sharp ball head jig. Try to keep the weight light, count them down to depth, and retrieve slowly.

Loved the Guido Bug. If I could find a bunch I would buy them up. I used all of mine years ago Agree. Sometimes I think some baits have too many ribs, appendages, and all sorts of things to make them look good to fisherman, maybe not always the fish. The Guido Bug was simple looking compared to some of the newer baits.And, I always liked them because of Guido and Dion Hibdon. Heroes of mine

A- Jay, this is 100% true for me also. I don't remember ever catching a bass as I was slowly reeling the bait. 99% have hit on the pause, or, after my initial cast as the bait was sinking. Catts info is good also here. Be ready on that initial cast, because the bass thinks he's got an easy meal, before the crawfish goes on the defense.

My experience was similiar. I fished this lake for years, and did well always on plastic worms of different styles. One day, caught a 10" bass with a small crawfish in his throat. This was the clue. Now, I fish both craws and worms both. Everything I've ever read or heard over the years has said that if crawfish are available, bass will take them over other food sources first. So many larger fish have been caught on big crawbaits, jig/ craw combos, jig/ pig combos and live crawfish, that I tend to believe this.

Snake95, I chose the Critter Craw in 3" size because that was as close to the old Hibdon Guido Bug as I could get. The Guido Bug had longer thinner claws, and longer antannaes out front. It seems to work well, is reasonably priced, and I've caught more on this style than the craw baits with large flapping craws. I'm sure those would work at times also.

Nice outfit. I have two 1000 size Siennas I bought 6 or 7 yrs ago for crappie fishing. I've never opened them up, only put a drop of oil on any moving parts, and kept them clean. They both still work perfectly.

On a small quarry lake I bank fish, I've stood on the bank and watched crawfish sitting on rocks in shallow water. If I move very much, or cast a shadow over them, they glide two or three feet to the bottom, and usually sit there, unless spooked again. Years ago, when I first tried soft plastic craw baits, I fished them with a slow lift/drop retrieve, much the same as I do a t rig plastic worm. I caught very few bass hopping them off the bottom like this. I've read that crawfish can actually hop off the bottom, when fleeing from a fish, but I've never seen one do this. It's always been a slow glide, or a faster scurry motion, to protect themselves from predator fish. Here's what's worked best for me: Cast, let the bait hit bottom, and let it sit for a time, maybe up to one minute. Turn the reel two or three turns, and stop. Let it sit again, and repeat back to bank or boat. I've had the best luck with the rod tip lower, slightly to the right, as opposed to keeping the rod tip up, which I do for plastic worms. Lately, it's been the Zoom Critter Craw, and some generic craws I'm using up, t rigged, or on a Big Bite Baits screwlock shakey head. The t rig seems to work best with this retrieve style. With both rigs, turning the reel handle very slowly has worked the best, and pausing in between reeling. What's your favourite way to retrieve crawfish baits? Do you like to hop them, or keep them in constant contact with the bottom?

I don't worry about going to the dark side. It can be a good place to go....

I also like my casting tackle, but lately, the fish have been hard to catch on larger baits or topwater baits. I've been using a 1/8 slider head, rigged with a 4.5" Roboworm, and a 1/8 beetlespin. Not catching any large bass, but good numbers. It's fun to fight the " numbers " fish on a med spin rod too. Lots of fun.

Catt, that looks like a good craw right there. I always thought the long antenna were just as important as the size or shape of the claws.

I wish we could still get the Guido Bug. It used to be my favourite