govallis

Thank you all for the inputs. Let me ask it this way: can I use a 3 oz lure with rod A that has a 50lb line rating?

I have two similar saltwater rods here, same length 7': Rod A: Heavy, 12-50lb, 3/8 - 1 oz. Rod B: Medium heavy, 12-20lb, 1-3 oz. Why A, with a much higher line weight (50 vs. 20lb), is limited to 1 oz lure only while B is 3 oz?

That was not the concern. My question was: a much thinner braid vs. mono, 0.1 mm vs. 0.2 mm, which is more visible to fish? Maybe I should change the title of the original post.

I don't mind it breaks at the knots, what I hate is somewhere in the middle of the main line.

Can be any. I always use a weaker leader because I never want my mainly to break. As I'll use it only as a leader, I can replace it as frequently as needed. For this purpose, 4 strands and cheap ones like Spiderwire EZ braid and Powerpro should do. 4 strands is more abrasion resistant than 8.

I know, all people say braid is too visible compared to mono, but it is much thinner. Mono 6# is about 0.20 mm, braid 6# is 0.10 mm, about half of the diameter of mono. So, which is really easier for the fish to see? When the line goes thicker, say 50 lb braid, I guess an invisible fluoro leader makes more sense.

Try use a Shimano reel instead of a Daiwa.

Went to the store but did not buy it. The handle is too long, about 2-3" longer than that of Celilo. The rod is also too soft, more like ultra light than light. I weighed it to be 4.80 oz - an oz heavier than Celilo! Man, what's the point of using IM8? The manufacturer's suggested price is $99.99, the store was selling it at 64.99, with $20 off on sale. Now it is $46.99 everyday, still nobody's buying. Now I know why - the handle is way too long (especially for a light rod), too soft for a light rod and too heavy for IM8. Looks durable though.

The followings are available in my local stores and the diameters are actual, in the order of strength/(mm x mm) and abrasion: CXX 10#: 0.38 Izorline Platinum or XXX 12#: 0.35-0.36 Yo-Zuri Hybrid 12#: 0.35

Thank you, NOC 1. I have been using a light 7'6" Okuma Celilo for several months now and love it, seems very durable but cannot find this rod anymore. I might give this IM8 a try.

It is attachable/detachable/replaceable. The two yellow rings are rubber bands, cut from rubber tube. The foam is cut from a pair of flip flops from DollarTree.

My father has been using such a simple solution for more than 20 years:

I am looking for a light spinning rod and saw this one in my local store. I'm doing a research before I buy it but found 0 information and review about it. Is it too new? It is IM8, I feel its power is between ultra light and light. Is it durable and is $46 a good price? There was a $20 discount early this year for all Okuma rods in this store.

10# CXX is already MUCH thicker and stronger than 12# Yo-Zuri. So, never treat 12# CXX and Yo-Zuri in the same class. If 12# Yo-Zuri is the strength you need, then you should get 10# CXX, not 12# which is a hell lot thicker and stronger than you need.

I only use 8# (0.32 mm actually 16#) and 6# (0.25 actually 10#), no memory or any line management or casting issue. 4# is not that strong, about 5-6# to break at 0.20 mm (quite thin).

Yeah, after some more searching, nowhere to find this line anymore. I guess CXX is still the strongest line widely available today? I have done lots of tests recently, CXX beats all other lines at the same or larger measured diameter, including Izorline Platinum and Yo-Zuri Hybrid. One special thing about CXX: it still holds its full strength after been overly stretched to break, which means this line won't give unexpected breakages. Or put it this way: you don't need to worry about the line's strength weaken by excessive stretching after a pull out of snag or a fight with a big fish, just keep fishing. Yeah, after some more searching, nowhere to find this line anymore. Still strange though that never any talk about it here. I guess CXX is still the strongest line widely available today? I have done lots of tests recently, CXX beats all other lines at the same or larger measured diameter, including Izorline Platinum and Yo-Zuri Hybrid. One special thing about CXX: it still holds its full strength after been overly stretched to break, which means this line won't give unexpected breakages. Or put it this way: you don't need to worry about the line's strength weaken by excessive stretching after a pull out of snag or a fight with a big fish, just keep fishing.

Many talks about CXX, and its memory/stiffness. Then why nobody's interested in the Stren Brute Strength, supposed to be CXX without memory? It is even stupidly underrated its pounds exactly like the CXX, for example, 8# is really a 16# line.

Yes, but it is a customized ordering process, no idea how many years for him to build one and how to deliver it from coast to coast. I would never go through that kind of hassle. This is about a simple nice small fishing boat, not a Tesla.

For such perfect fishing boats that are very popular in all other countries such as UK, Europe, India and China etc., even Canada, the #1 problem is not the price. Nowhere to buy one in USA. If I have to pay $$$$ for someone to build one for me, plus years of waiting, I'd rather DIY.

Maxima Ultragreen is MUCH thicker than what's claimed. For example, the 12# is 0.015", not 0.013"; 10# is 0.014", instead of 0.012"! So, the #6 your buddy were using must be as thick as a normal #15 line which is impossible to get a bite from trout.

I have been thinking of this question since day one and the followings are the latest. Fluorocarbon lines are significantly weaker than co-polymer lines. I.e., for the same strength, one must use a thicker Fluorocarbon line. Based on my experiments, 0.010" copolymer line can easily beat 0.012" Fluorocarbon. And, knots can make Fluorocarbon even weaker. In very clear shallow water or when fish is on top water, the fish can see the line above water. In this case, thin clear line can help, avoid thick dark or hi-vis lines. Fluorocarbon does not help in this situation, because the line is not in the water and the line is thicker. For under water, the real question is: can a less visible but thicker line get you more bites than a more visible but thinner line? To the first post: use a clear leader to your hi-vis main line.

Has anybody tried this new line from Berkley? Recently it won the ICAST award. From the description, it is like the Yozuri Hybrid and similarly priced.

I don't know other jugs, these I use are made in USA, very steady and durable. Two of them are 20-years-old, still like new.

I have already learned a few things, in the wet way?

Thank you for all your concerns, but for what it is now, it fits my needs perfectly well. I think almost all your concerns have been addressed by the First Strike video from which I got the idea. I think it is the very best idea for a portable boat that's also stable, I simply realized the idea in an extremely easy way with locally available stuff and minimum effort. As you can see in above video, the Japanese fisherman use it on the sea, no problem at all. There may be more room to improve, but, again, so far so good. Without the water bottles, the sled itself is too unstable to be safe by any means, even if I sit down all the time without standing up. Actually that was my original plan after watched the video below. Then I saw the First Strike video and the water jar came to my mind and did the trick. Gasoline containers might be more steady and durable, but more expensive.