govallis

Many thanks to both of you!

I have read couple posts saying they are the same reel except deeper spool, for some brands such as Daiwa and Shimano. Does the 3000 have a larger lip diameter? If so, I prefer 3000 for further casting. If the lip diameters are the same, just the slot is deeper, then 2500 is better, because they will cast the same far and I don't waste lots of line.

I know exactly what you mean - I too hate those floating guides. I have no problem with fixed guides and no problem to align them.

Thanks, but cannot take the risk of ebay and Amazon's 3rd party sellers, too many fake stuff.

Where to buy them?

HT-100 carbon fiber drag washers Size 2500 9.80 OZ 6.2:1 But, BB is no longer shielded? II is now $27.99! Walmart is shipping III for $36.86.

Bought these 3 reels from Walmart. They are priced closely around $30. Their line capacity are similar; Okuma is the smallest and Penn the largest, all are about right for general fishing. Okuma is the lightest at only 8.05 oz vs. 9.15 of Shimano and 11.75 of Penn. Shimano is made in Malasiya and the other two are made in China. I tend to keep the Shimano, except one thing: its line roller - made of brass with a chromium coating. I had a cheap reel with such a line roller and it was cut into two pieces by the line after 6 months. Does the roller in this Shimano use better brass and coating to last significantly longer? The Okuma has a stainless steel line roller. Not sure about the Penn; it is too heavy for me to like so I don't even want to open the package.

If you like scent, give the Shim E a try. It is the most productive, next to it is Dinger and Senko. I have all the three versions of Power Minnow, only one fish so far ever, while each and every time the Shim E can get me about 10 within an hour. I rig it with nose hooking and wacky; For texas, I use Dinger. Only $2.49 for 7 in Walmart.

Chinese are well known to make a product cheaper and cheaper, so I believe they now use cheaper material that melts. The package in photo was bought 10 years ago. I tried rubber band but I lost the senko when the fish bit the tail or head and I set hook. Are these Goody tougher than normal rubber bands? I'll give them a try because the new poly bands melt.

I use #6 for all, because Walmart had the Eagle Claw #6 for 25 pcs for $4.50. Never lose a fish. Too bad, Walmart no longer carry these, now they carry the 3x red ones. 3X is too strong for my 12 lb line to bend it when snagged.

I cannot see any of these to be the cause and the water could become clear again the next day. During the entire summer, no water goes in, no rain, no algae bloom. I don't know what do you mean "turn over". As for wind, if it blows strongly this afternoon but no more wind after 8PM, will the water still be opaque at 8AM? I've tried everything including these, never get a bass so far, but I can catch lots of crappie.

Jig works all year long, but the best? Probably no. Senko seems more like the best for bass, all seasons.

Yesterday morning (this Friday actually) the water was normally clear and I caught 5 largemouths. But when I got there this morning (Saturday actually), the water was opaque and, as expected, got no bite at all. This is not the first time I noticed such a thing. Among the 4 ponds I frequent, 3 of them can do this - the water turns into opaque for no reason (no heavy wind, no rain, no water level change). One day the water can see through 3 feet and more but then another day cannot see through even half foot. Anybody know why? I noticed that this Friday night the moon was full. Could it be that?

+1. I use medium action rod for everything including tiny perch. I can cast as far as a UL, thus no point to have a UL rod except for fighting fun.

I bought the polybands long time ago. It is perfect for 5" Senko including Dinger and Shim E, but too large for smaller Senko such as 3" ones. I tried recently some smaller polybands from local stores such as Walmart. The strange thing is, these smaller polybands all melt with Senko! So, as long as they won't melt with Senko, any polybands are fine. Even polybands will make cuts on Senko after some days of use, so I cut a piece of heat-shrink tube and wrap it on Senko, as showing in the attached photo. This should also solve the melting issue of smaller polybands.

I've tried many and have been using the Quantum as my only rod for more than 6 months now. It is graphite (IM6), medium action, 6.6', very light (3.85 oz), normal handle length. The only down side is the crappy guides, but I replaced the tip guide (very easy for $2.5) to make this rod perfect. And it is widely available in many stores such as Cabela's and Sportsmanswarehouse, for only $20. Both spinning and baitcast are available. I only wish the collapsed length is 3" shorter. 19.5" is difficult to put in a bag and 16.5" will be much easier. There are many on ebay and amazon. But most of them are too stiff (very fast action), will loose fish for treble hooks. Most of them have a stupidly LONG handle. Most of them are still too long when collapsed, defeating all the purpose of a collapsible. This video has great info on the details about weight and length, although action info is missing and I don't agree with him on the long handle:

I bank fishing only and I don't like drop shot, because slip shot works far more smoothly and is more effective too. "Slip shot" is like a Carolina rig, but I use a light weight and I use a lift and drop retrieve. It is also very easy and convenient to switch between to/from other rigging methods by just removing/adding the weight. For soft baits that sink too slowly (such as finesse worms), I always use slip shot.

1 to 1/0.

All 5". The Shim E is watermelon red flack. Dinger is green pumpkin. Senko is green pumpkin+ watermelon. The Shim E had a very strong smell and I think fish love the smell.

Every knot has a little tag, this tag will grab weeds if facing up. For example, Orvis knot has a facing down tag, but Palomar facing up. So if you tie an Orvis knot above the swivel and tie a Palomar on the other end, you have both tags facing down. The bassresource youtube video about liplesss bait says don't use a swivel because it does nothing good but grabbing weeds. That's wrong, because he never get into above details. I agree that a knot always creates the weakest point. Let's say a knot can stand with 20lb; then for a 12lb line it has 100% strength but for a 25lb line it is not 100%. Some knots slipps out before breaks, the Homer Rhode loop knot is one of them. For the Non Slip loop knot, never pull the tag too hard, or the knot will break far more easily! For the Orvis knot, if the tag faces up, then you didn't do it right and it'll break easily. When I need the tag of the non slip loop knot to face up instead of down, I tie the tag an extra overhand knot. This is the case when I use this great knot at the bottom of a swivel, so the tag faces down. This is confusing, I know, the same knot is facing down when tied to a hook or the top side of a swivel, but becomes facing up when tied to the bottom of a swivel. Being at the hook, the top or bottom side of a swivel, all the tags of the knots must face down. Much less chance to grab weeds. Once a tag facing up, it's like a little plastic hook to weeds. You should not tie the same knot on a swivel, because one of them will face up.

I don't know why people so against swivel. I use Pline size 10 rolling swivel only, never a problem. As I said above, use the 100% strength knots only and all tags face down. Each knot must be tied properly to ensure 100% strength. I never moisturize when tie a knot; if a knot needs moisturizing, then it is not going to be a good one. Finding out the special trick for each good knot to ensure 100% strength is the key. I tried not to use a swivel, got line twist quite soon. Ever since I used a swivel, line twist and bird nest have been a thing of past.

Used STS leader for the whole morning and caught about a dozen LM (a lot more escaped). The first 1.5" did not become white nor rough, but there are two nicks. So, STS is more abrasion resistant but still needs to be replaced frequently. I'll keep both and use STS for tough conditions such as river. Although STS is priced higher than the Red Label, but in the end it may cost the same or even less because it needs to be replaced less frequently. Either way, no more reason to buy Vanish again, because it is actually priced higher than Red Label and only $1.5 less than STS. Note that 8# Vanish equals to 10# Seaguar on actual diameter and strength.

If you come to my state, you'll be lucky as long as not skunked, but I may help you to catch one or two. I bank fish only.

I don't care about over sensitivity, but I hate long handle. For pros who catch one fish after another, bigger and bigger ones, and they horse the fish to the boat ASAP, I can understand long handle. But, for most of us who cast and cast and catch only one or two for the day, why we need that long handle? And we enjoy the process of fighting with fish, why we need a long handle?

Then use a tiny rolling swivel, I always do and never line twist regardless what bait. You'll hate wind knot with braid, I don't want to use braid again. I always tie the swivel 18" above the bait, to eliminate potential side effect. Make sure to use the right knots, so the tags are all faced down and won't grab weeds.