govallis

Being a car-top only, the Porta Bote is way over priced. The First Strike is the in-car solution, but not available here in the states. From above comments, it is obviously why things like the First Strike has no market here. So I had to make one. https://iq-files.livejournal.com/50508.html

It might be doable, but not so practical, especially by a single person.

It is 100 lb, you can't even lift it onto the top of your car, no need to mention into a car. It might be too small to you, but not necessarily to others. I can mount a 30lb motor at the stern. Could you tell me a boat, regardless price, that's not too small but can still be inserted into a car?

I have searched and searched for a boat that fits into my small car and still stable enough to stand up fishing. Nothing exists and I hate inflatables. So I spent a day to figure out one. Take it out my small car and I can fish within one minute. No pumping, no screw. Total cost $150.11, all locally available. Nothing to build, no any tool required. Everybody can have one, easily. Only 28.5 lbs.

I have Yo-zuri hybrid 10#, its measured diameter is perfect, 0.32 mm, but it is somehow not so strong and not so abrasion resistant. The 12# has a measured diameter of 0.35 mm, not 0.338.

The 10# line has a measured diameter of 0.305 mm and the 12# 0.36, respectively. The gap is too large and I have found that the one-line-for-all happens to be about 0.32-0.33 mm, which is strong enough to horse a fish or bend a snagged Aberdeen hook, but not too strong to cause line management and casting issues. Right now I have to use 8# PLine CXX (0.32 mm) which is a little too stiffer than Izorline Platinum while stronger.

Sportsmans Warehouse has the lowest price for C21, $3.99. Also consider the 10# (0.31 mm) version that breaks at 12# and higher and it casts better than its 12# brother.

Never say something like "15#", It is meaningless. If you really want 15#, then try the 10# Izorline, It is actually 15#. If you get a 15# Izorline, It'll be far more than 15# and way too thick for you to cast far. Other lines are similar, such as CXX. If casting distance is your main concern, then you should look for the right line and diameter. I suggest Izorline 10# (0.31 mm) or 12# (0.35 mm), don't go any thicker. They are actually 15# and 20#. I have done lots of tests to come to the conclusion. I bank fishing only, so I need distance too. You can go with other lines or thinner, but you'll lose more lures; you can go thicker, but you won't cast far. 0.36 mm is the thickest I'd go and 0.31 is already adequate for most cases, at least for Izorline. If you can't find Izorline in your neck of the woods, then go to walmart and grab a 12# C21. It is cheap, but good, a couple pounds stronger than 12#, about 16#. I have used It for 2 years now. It casts extremely well. It is a little thicker than the Izorline 10#, 0.34 vs. 0.31. You may also try 10# (0.32 mm) Yo-zuri Hybrid, It cast as well. It is supposed to be anti UV and water absorbtion, so you don't need to respool for a year or two. I need more time to verify these two characters with Yo-zuri and Izorline; other than those, Izorline already beats the Yo-zuri on all aspects, especially on abrasion resistance and/or under-water strength. I end up using the hi-vis Platinum of Izorline, because It is extremely supple and still extremely abrasion resistant and strong. Other colors are not as soft and XXX are actually stiffer with poor abrasion resistance and/or under-water strength. FWIW, I also tested CX Premium, Floroclear and others. They cast as well, but not as strong and abrasion resistant as the Izorline. You may try these lines If abrasion is not so big a deal to you, as they are widely available especially the Floroclear. Once you've found the right line, you might no longer need a long rod. That's what happened to me. I use 7' Shakespeare Micro light and Excursion medium.

Many 2500 are the same as 3000 except a larger "stem" for less line capacity, no any other difference, no any more challenge at all. This Daiwa 2500 is only 2 mm smaller than the Safina 35, 47.98 mm vs. 49.91, to be exact. As we all know, Okuma reels are smaller, a 35 is actually a 30 or even smaller, this SPa-35 is no exception, a really 30 reel.

This issue is not about the normal cone shape, nor the overfill. This is the latest result. Like most reels, the Daiwa RG2500H-AB uses a 1 mm washer. It is too thick, resulting a fat bottom. Not a normally designed cone, way too fat bottom as you see in the photo. I changed the washer to 0.5 mm, then It was too thin and shifted to the other side. Recently, I added a 0.25 mm washer, making It 0.75 mm total. Now It seems perfect, even and uniform, no bird nest so far. Seems this washer is extremely sensitive, a 0.01 inch makes a world difference. As about overfill, I have been doing it with the SPa-35 for almost a year now without a single problem. And I use 0.33 - 0.35 mm lines (cheap 12 - 15# C21). Now with the Daiwa too, 0.31 mm (10#) Izorline Platinum hi-viz.

Very good question, the only answer is this chart I found couple years ago: http://home.earthlink.net/~jimlux/hv/monofil.htm I only use 8-15# lines and the mode numbers in this chart match quite close to what I have measured: 8# 0.28 mm 10# 0.30 mm 12# 0.33 mm 14# 0.36 mm Again, it is the measured diameters that match these numbers. For example, the Pline C21 matches these numbers exactly when I measured, but what you see on the packages are thinner: 10# 0.27 mm 12# 0.29 mm 15# 0.34 mm This is what makes me angry at fishing line companies, what a mess, they write whatever numbers they want on the packages. They always lie like this - their lines are thinner and stronger, but in reality they are all the same strength as long as the diameters measured the same. There are a few honest lines, such as Pline Floroclear, Halo and Zebco Omniflex. The only line that also lie but still really stronger is Yo-Zuri Hybrid. For example, the 10# Hybrid is measured to be 0.32 mm, so is the 12# Seaguar STS, but the former beat the latter, easily and always. Whether the reel industry uses this chart as the reference? I don't know. All I can say is: the mode numbers in this chart is indeed quite typical about measured diameters.

I have done enough tests, I have not seen any variation or tolerance. If a line is measured to be 0.32 mm, it is always that, no matter when or which part of the line I measured. The Super Natural might be close enough to be within the tolerance, but the Sniper is certainly marked much smaller on purpose.

Measured some Sunline today and their actual diameters are much larger too! Super Natural 10# .27 .010 .260 12# .30 .011 .285 14# .32 .012 .310 16# .35 .013 .330 Snipper 8# .26 .0093 .235 10# .29 .0102 .260 12# .31 .0112 .285 14# .33 .0122 .310 So, there is no so called "honest" fishing line company on this planet! Once the very 1st company lied and earned a "strong" line title, other companies must follow or their line would become "weak" ones. There are a few lines that have accurate diammeters printed on the package, like pline floroclear and halo, but its cxx is outrageous: cxx 8# .32 .012 .3 10# .38 .014 .35 As you see, the 8# is at least a doubly stronger line, at least 15# being .34 mm. Most 8# lines are .28 or less, which is actually 12# already. No wonder why people all say how strong the cxx is because fishermen are all too old to hold steadily and/or read a micrometer. Note: above numbers are in this order - measured in mm, printed on package in in and mm

Pline and Yo-Zuri are from Japan too and they lie about diameters and pounds on CX Premium, C21 and Hybrid, except the Floroclear. German companies like Maxima and Izorline are even worse on this regard. I might give Sunline a try, because their listed pounds and diameters do look quite realistic. What I learned in the past couple years is: the actual diameter pretty much defines the actual strength of mono, co-polymer and fluorocarbon. I have done numerous comparison tests, even 0.01 mm make a difference on breaking force.

Tom, are these really (actually) 0.013? Also, 0.013 could mean anywhere from 0.32 to 0.34 mm. Beside the 12# SB and Omniflex, the Yo-Zuri 10# is also measured to be 0.32. The 12# CX Premium, Floroclear and 10# Izorline are 0.31, a little too thin, and the 12# C21 is 0.34, a little too thick.

Today saw this Cajun in Walmart, 650 yds for $8, still cheap but much more expensive than the Omniflex. Too bad, the lightest # is 20, would love to give its 8, 10 and 12# a try if available. I'm not looking for cheap lines, but 0.32 mm ones which I have concluded to be the optimal diameter for all species and conditions. 0.35 is too thick to cast small lures and might reduce bites (I use this diameter for jetty fishing only). Then I can use 0.30 leaders which will break before the 0.32 main line when snagged. Without a (thinner) leader, the main line will be stretched over its limit and is subjected to abrasion. This way I can simply swap leaders and keep the main line in good shape. 0.30 is strong enough to bend a soft hook from a snag, see the photo below. I have not lost a single fish yet due to a soft hook, while almost always free up from snags. With such a snag-free setup, I can get bites and land fish anywhere.

The South Bend 100 yds for $1 in Walmart stores is a shocking surprise! I bought some years ago for other purposes, never thought of using it as a main line, because it is too cheap. Recently I was looking hard for a 0.32 mm (0.013 in) line and the 12# SB happens to be exactly the diameter. The only other 0.32 mm line I can find, the 12# Zebco Omniflex, is also sold in Walmart stores for a whopping 700 yds for only $1! However, the Zebco 12# is too stiff to be used even as backing; the line keeps slip off the reel in coils. I tried the 12# (0.32 mm) SB on a spinning reel and it worked like a charm. No line management issue, very supple, no memory, casts like a dream. I can feel the bottoms and bites, easily. Abrasion resistance seems not bad at all. No ideal how long this line can last, but who cares if I can replace the first 100 yds for just $1? Made in Korea. Although these two lines are deadly cheap, they are accurate on diameters, unlike "premium" lines that almost always lie about diameters and test pounds. South Bend - 6# 0.24 mm 8# 0.26 mm 10# 0.30 mm 12# 0.32 mm Zebco - 8# 0.28 (0.011) 10# 0.30 (0.012) 12# 0.32 (0.013) 15# 0.39 (0.015)

I did untwist in a park, I did not like the way. This is what I do now: use an empty reel from a used spool; spool from the spinning reel to this used reel; every while, turn the used reel to untwist the line; once all line is on the used reel, spool the line back from the used reel to the spinning reel; turn the used reel to untwist the line every while. Worked well for mono line, I don't use braid.

I was hoping the fluorocarbon blend or coating to add low stretch, invisibility and water proof to the copolymer (C21). However, the 10# Hybrid, 12# CX and Floroclear, all 0.31 mm, are not as strong as the 0.33 mm C21 (12#). The next bigger size for the Hybrid is 0.35 mm (12#) and for the CX and Floroclear are 0.36 mm (15#), too thicker than 12# C21. Furthermore, the Hybrid is too weak to abrasion. The CX is too hard to find in stores and, although found in each and every stores, the Floroclear has only one color with a bad reputation here. So I give up on "copolymer + fluorocarbon". Went to a local store and the Izorline Platinum copolymer priced similarly low as C21 caught my eyes. The 12# is 0.35 mm, still too thicker than 12# C21, while the 10# might be too weak at 0.30 mm. They come in hi-viz color for only $1 more than clear C21, $6.5 vs. $4.8, so I still want to try and bought the 12#. It turns out to be very limp, no problem at all, even though I overly spooled the reel. It is exceptionally good on abrasion too! Fished the same rocky river for 3 hours and caught 3 fighters, the line still looks brand new, no kinks, no nicks, no frays while the two 18" leaders (12# red label) become rough. I pulled out of snags many times and lost one senko and two treble hooks (no hard baits loss), but this Izorline line is intact. It casts as far if not further, amazing, being 0.04 mm thicker! Anybody knows a similar good line that's 0.33 mm? Whenever I say "diameter", I mean measured, actual, which is almost always thicker than what manufacturers list.

Yes the 10# and 12# are in the small 275 yds packages. So are the one(s) used in the TackleTour review. The reviewer did say the abrasion tested in the lab for the 10# - only average, doesn't match his experience. I have been wondering, if these lines have no major problem, then why they are not in stores?

Fished twice for small mouth in a river with rocks and this 10# Hybrid showed frays and kinks after each trip. The line broke couple times on each trip while I was trying to pull out (not so hard) from snags. I'm disappointed on its abrasion resistance.

I heard of the Hybrid long ago but never got one to try because no store carries them except ebay and Amazon via 3rd-party sellers that I cannot trust. Somehow I tired P-Line CX Premium recently and loved it, which got me more interested in co-polymer + fluorocarbon combo and Yo-Zuri is the only other option. So I searched hard and found the Hybrid in a Cabela's store but 15# only which is too thick. Then found it online of Sportsman's Warehouse (one of my favorite fishing stores), ordered 10# and 12# and picked them up in my local store. The 10# has pretty much the same diameter of 12# CX, 0.32 mm vs. 0.31, but it feels more like fluorocarbon than CX does. They both cast far, very far, now I can reach the fish hole that I wasn't able to. The hybrid hangs on the rod tip and falls down to the water like a thin, heavy, straight and very visible rope; I can easily watch and feel the line to know what's going on with the lure under the water and adjust my retrieving accordingly. Subtle bites are more pronounced than with the CX which is already very good and hook-sets are guaranteed, thanking to low stretch. With the moss green CX, it's like fishing in dark; I will not use it again just because of this and will never buy any moss green again. The Hybrid is extremely smooth and slick. My cheap rod, 7' light Shakespeare Micro, has cheap stainless guides which scratch lines but they feel like ceramic ones with this Hybrid. Although my reel spool is overly filled as you see in the photo, there is 0 issue about line management, absolutely no twist. The Hybrid feels significantly better on line management, twist and memory, to the point that it seems no more concern about such issues. The Hybrid simply feels like a sturdy rope, but thin and supple meanwhile. I used it as both main line and 18" leaders, all perfect, caught and landed 3 smallmouth about 3 pound each and they were fighters. The main line and one of the two leaders still look like new; the first 1" of the other leader shows a sign of some abrasion. For freshwater, I see no reason to go heavier from 10# to 12# and even 8# might be well enough. According to the diameter, the 8# is really a 12# line, the 10# a 14# and 12# a 16#, at least. This 10# might be strong for jetty fishing as well, although the 12#, measured to be 0.35 mm, is certainly more adequate. The CX 12# is not durable enough for jetty fishing as a leader, OK as main line. I always use leader(s) after a swivel to keep the main line from shortening, twisting and abrasion. It is hard to understand why such great lines, the Hybrid and CX, are not found in stores. The Hybrid is better than CX, on all aspects. It is not a compromise between fluorocarbon and mono; it is better than both. It is a joy fishing with the Hybrid. The only downside is that Yo-zuri patented It so there is no alternative, but the good part is Yo-zuri doesn't charge a premium, even cheaper than CX.

The 12# CX has worked like a charm in freshwater (no rocks). Went jetty fishing today and used the 12# CX as the main line and a leader. It is no Seaguar that I have used for a year without a single break. Learned it the hard way. Hooked up a lingcod that's more than 2 feet long and the leader broke. Switched leader back to Seaguar, no more break.

Shimano Sienna twists line and causes bird nest a lot. Get a Safina Pro SPa-35 instead, if you don't want a new fisherman be frustrated with endless bird nests. Note: not the SPa-25 that still bird nests. Go to Walmart and get both Shakespeare Excursion and Micro for less than $40 total and get all species and lures covered. With the extra dollars left, buy a bag of Eagle Claw 4/0 hooks for $2.50 and couple bags of Creme senko for $1/ea.

The 10 lb at .012/0.308 is actually as thin as the 10/12 lb CX Premium that's claimed to be a thin line. Well, whether 0.012 is too thick for a spinning reel, is another consideration. To me, I use up to 0.36 mm C21 (15 lb) on my spinning reels without management issues. The key is to find the right reel that always spools line evenly. So far the Safina Pro SPa-35 is the only one I've found. Anyway, I have scaled down to .30 - 0.31 mm, because I think it is the optimal diameter for all purposes - still strong enough to pull out snagged hooks and not too thick for panfish. I now use soft hooks only such as Eagle Claw Aberdeen.