MN Fisher

Just think, Chris....a few years and you'll be re-living all those good times with your grand-daughter.

Another way to do it, retaining the size/readability and not taking up any of @Glenn 's precious drive space

Create a new document
Copy the one page from the old document to the new one
Save the new document to Google-Drive
Set the security to 'Any one with the link can view'
Get the share link
Post the link here.

Everyone gets a very readable view and can download the file if they want, and doesn't use more BR Server space than any other non-picture message.

Yearly quick clean - flush the bearings and put a couple drops of oil in them
Bi-yearly full clean - strip the reel down, clean the gears and bearings, new grease and oil

Grease - I've used Abu grease, it never let me down - higher price...jump right to Cals Tan.
Oil - I use 'sewing machine' oil. It's formulated for high speed, repetitive motions

Full strip-down is this far for me - This is one of my Tatula 100 reels.

Two of my panfish rigs correspond to yours....and here's what I have on them

Light rig - 1000 reel, L/F rod - 6# Revolve braid, 4# InvizX leader around 15'
Med-Light - 1000 reel - ML/MF rod, 8# Sufix 832 braid, 6# InvizX leader around 15'

Depends on the vendor. Back when de minimis was about to end, I got an email from Digitaka. They sent a coupon that takes 50% off the tariff that's good to the end of October.
 
Might only be for customers registered on their site at that point, but it's a good deal.
 
Also - JDM prices are low enough compared to USDM prices that the price+tariff is usually still lower when ordering from Japan than getting here in the States.

#1 - If it's truly a Lithium-Ion - get rid of it...those things are fire hazards waiting to blow. If it's a LiFePo4, then you're safe. No, they're not the same.
 
Far as charging....you can run the charge through the breaker so long as the charger current is less than the breaker's trip limit. Just make sure the charger is rated for Lithium batteries.

Find: mid depth areas (8'-12') near weedlines. They'll be near the edges or just inside...trying to hide from the bass/pike/etc
 
Techniques:
 1: Light jigs (1/16-1/32oz) under a bobber at a depth about midway to the bottom to near the bottom. Tip the hook with a number of plastics. 2"-2.5" minnows (Berkley Gulp, Big Bites Crappie Minnow, Bobby Garland Baby Shad), Creature baits (1.25" Berkley Gulp Stonefly, 2.25" Bobby Garland Mayfly), or the old reliable Mr Twister 2" Teenie Tail.
 
You can also use those same plastics on a Drop-Shot. #4 hook, 1/8oz weight about 2'-4' down from the hook...just jiggle it out there and SLOW drag.

When the warranty runs out, whether it seems to need replacing or not...and I pay the slight extra for 5-year batteries.

With a 1 behind and 3 in front of the stem, I've always used my forefinger to feather line when casting with my spinning reels.
 
Great job passing on good techniques, Sean....keep it going.

Except NOCO is a US company that designs their chargers in Ohio....made over in Asia, but US engineered.
 
Dakota Lithium's main manufacturing facility is in Grand Forks, ND, USA.

The two Aird-X rods I still have in my rotation are a 701HFB and a 701MHFB.
 
Compared to my St Croix and Dobyns, I think the line/lure ratings on the Airds are a bit higher. a Dobyns 704C is listed as a 'Heavy', but it's stats are the same as the Aird-X Medium Heavy. The St Croixs are closer, but still a little off of the Airds.
 
Far as action - I rate my Aird MH/F as more of a MF-F - not quite as slow as a Mod-Fast, but a bit slower than a true Fast....reason I use it for spinners/chatters. The H/F does respond like a true F...it's my frog rod.

Weighted plastic swimbaits (paddletail on a jig-head?) I classify as 'jigs'...so no
 
Hard swim/glidebaits - I think I answered that - the Bucca Baby line is just that. So long as the lure weight is in (or close to) the guideline of the rod, you should be okay. If it says 3/4oz max...1oz isn't out of the question, just don't try to cast it into the next county....1.5oz would be out of the question.

How about the Panfish 7'3" MLXF?
It has the SCII and SCVI blend for resin.
 
I have one, and it's actually a very good rod...and more budget friendly than the Victory.

Reels:
Daiwa Tatula 100 6.3:1
Shimano SLX-XT 6.3:1
 
Rods
Any M/M or MH/M from St Croix, Dobyns, Phenix, Daiwa, Shimano

I never go on the water without my Bob Smith gap filling CA

 
Some places order it in bulk and put their own home label on it. BSI CA is the best out there no matter what 'flavor' of it you get.

Lund (and Alumacraft) originated up here where the lakes are big and occasionally rough. If the hull appears to be in good condition, I'd have no problems buying that boat.
 
My own is a 1972 Alumacraft that I gutted and rebuilt the interior...it's still solid as a rock. A Lund hull was also on my list when I was looking for a boat.

My first fishing gear in the mid-60s was from exactly that...an ad on the back of a comic. Me and dad heading out with the 'Comic Gear' circa 1967

Your tree - your responsibility.
 
Had a similar situation here several years ago. Tree in the empty lot behind me got blown over in a storm, ended up in my yard. Took a bit to find out who the owner was, but after some back-and-forth, the city attorney informed him that as it came from his property, he was responsible for removing it from mine.

Between the bunks, the keel roller is just to help center the boat....so just touching. Beyond the bunks, it provides support for the boat...so a little more firm on the pressure there.

Cut off the alligator clips, crimp copper or even aluminum terminals onto the bare wire, bolt to battery.
 
If you want to be able to disconnect easily - put a set of these between the battery and the TM...make sure the wire gauge is correct for the amount of Amps you can pull at max....usually 6AWG or 8AWG. (Pictured is 6AWG)

 

Kansas Angler Catches New State-Record Crappie
Outdoor Life https://www.outdoorlife.com › ... › Crappie Fishing Feb 7, 2024 — It weighed 4.63 pounds and was 22 inches long. Angler Hazel Fey caught the crappie out of Woodson State Fishing Lake. For bait, Fey was ...

If you're dropping to 25% charge regularly - then go with Lithiums. Lead acid (Flooded, Gel, AGM) doesn't like going below 50% charge often - it shortens the lifespan.
 
The lithiums won't last longer per outing - you'll still drop to 25% charge - but they can handle going to 5% or less charge regularly without shortening the lifespan...so they are better in that respect.
 
If you get two batteries and connect them in parallel - then you'll have basically 200AH - or you can just get a single 200AH battery.

Marine Carpeting has pre-cut kits for quite a few Ranger boat models.
https://marinecarpeting.com/pre-cut-bass-boat-kits/ranger/

If you're using braid mainline - then the leader length is as long as the water is deep. Basic wacky is just a hook tied on the end (octopus is regularly suggested, I use Owner SSW hooks). Just cast and let it flutter to the bottom. 5" Yamamoto Senko is the 'base' worm to use here. Let it sit for a minute or two, then a quick 'yank' to pull it off the bottom and let it flutter down again...rinse and repeat until it's at the boat.
 
Certain other stickworms work better with a little weight - there are wacky jigs out there, and I use Reaction Tackle Tungsten Wacky Jigs in 1/16 & 1/8 oz. 5" Yum Dingers work well with the weighted wacky - the slightly faster fall gives them a Yama-Senko type flutter. Work it just like the weightless version.