papajoe222

I’ve been slowly filling a box car with reloads for my .223 and making mental notes of southern stops along the rail line. Take heart in the fact that I’m an excellent shot at ranges under 600yrds. And that my only magazine holds four rounds.

Why do I allow myself to be tortured winter after winter? I mean, isn’t the definition of insanity doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results? Why do I force myself to endure four months of not being able to present a lure to my favorite species of fish? It’s either brain damage, or a genetic disorder.. Maybe that genetic disorder is the cause of said brain damage. I have proof that my brain is damaged: I got excited when I realized that the power plant lakes around here will be opening in four weeks. FOUR FRIGGIN MORE WEEKS BEFORE I CAN EVEN CONSIDER HOOKING UP THE BOAT AND HEADING OUT..........AND I’M EXCITED????? Okay,I’ve admitted I have a problem. That’s the first steep. What’s the second step? Removing the obstacle? What if someone figures out what I’ve done with her.? Insanity defense, right? No, wait.....I’d have to plead guilty and that means doing time. More than the four weeks that started my realization. This could take a while to figure out. Luckily I have another bottle of Patr’on and four weeks to find a solution................If your don’t hear from ne in the next 24hrs. Don’t be concerned,I’ve likely just passed out. I’ve heard that helps.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a like new TD Sol. 6.3:1 gears had been installed in it and I not only love the faster gears, but the smoothness of that reel over my other Sols. My question is; Who offers gears for Daiwa reels? I’ve done bearing and drag washer upgrades on many of my Daiwas along with adding swept star drags and carbon fiber handles to a number of my queens, but gear swaps weren’t offered by the companies I dealt with.

You can have a logo phrase, or artwork added to any shirt. I use a local guy that adds players names to the back or front of little league shirts, T’s and hats. It’s inexpensive an is a great alternative to sewing on patches. A couple of bait and tackle shops sell. T’s advertising their business and you can always purchase apparel from any number of companies in the industry.

I replace terminal tackle and lures as the need arises. Rod, reels, boat accessories, I purchase prior to the season opener.

Stanley Vibrashaft and Northlake tackle Reef Runner.

They can be anywhere. That is why you need a system of eliminating areas where they aren’t. By blindly casting any one bait you’ll only be targeting one part of the water column and even if you luck into the right area, your presentation may be wrong for their activity level. Generally speaking, they will gravitate to the warmer water which should be the upper part of the water column. Just after ice out, they will move up from their winter locations rather than toward the shallows, which will occur once there is a steady warming trend. Hope that helps.

I don’t limit myself to any particular bait. I go through basically the same process I do the rest of the season. I keep my bait selection small; blade baits. Jig/pig (pork), suspending cranks and jerkbaits. With that handful, I can target any part of the water column and any activity level the fish may be in.

Congrats on both a job well done and seeing your efforts being recognized.

I use three different jig rods. One for working clean/rocky bottoms. One for fishing timber and one for heavy vegetation. None are extra fast.

I’m partially color blind and until I purchased a pair of 580G’s with green lenses I would have never given an opinion one way or another. Now the only time I don’t wear them is when I’m indoors and even then, many times I’ll leave them on.

I haven’t found one better than my Tracker, at least one I can afford.

This will be no surprise to many, but I prefer a big (5in.+) tube. Lube it up with an oil based scent and you can get below the mat with a smaller weight. There’s plenty of action when it hits bottom, or is banged up against the underside of the mat. You can add an internal rattle, or scent ball. In a word versatile.

Keep a buzz bait tied on. A jig will get you more fish with some big ones mixed in and a swim bait may produce a big girl, but a buzzer will produce more quality fish on a given outing.

Many an angler has started out with one of these three soft plastic baits progressing on to any (or all) of the vast offerings available. Most of the latter fill a specific need for something different, but many are just variations of worms, grubs, or tubes and that just proves how versatile those three are. My only fishing resolution for this upcoming season is to abandon all the new comers, the stick baits, swim baits, craw worms, etc. and limit myself to those three. I’m confident that my catch numbers won’t decline and hopeful that the lack of tackle choices will not only simplify my decision making, but rekindle some of the pleasure derived from angling with artificial baits. The only question that remains is: What do I do with the multitude of other soft plastics I’ve accumulated?.

Not knowing your skills and just going by the information and question you gave; both BPS rods are decent and reliable. The PQ2 being a little heavier. I’ve only broken one rod in the last twenty years and it was a six year old MicroLite. Took it to Bass Pro and they replaced it on the spot. I’d never recommend purchasing a rod without mounting the reel you intend to pair it with and holding it in your hands. I’d find a local SG dealer and spend a few extra bucks to be able to do just that.

I’ve done spool bearing upgrades on almost all my baitcasters. Boca and Hedgehog. IMO, you won’t see a noticeable increase in casting distance vs. clean, lubed stock bearings. Upgrading all a reels bushings with bearings may make it feel smoother, but also won’t result in any noticeable difference. If increased casting distance is your priority, back off the tension knob and brakes. Then get a reputable reel guy to polish the spool shaft and get the gearing and metal drag washers done at the same time. You’ll end up with a reel that performs at its peak and you’ll feel the difference.

Now what you need are pics of those same hooks after considerable use. I have a feeling those would just show to you and us, that sharpening or replacing hooks is a sound practice (if you post them).

IL, IN, MI, WI, MN and MO. I only held full year licenses for IL and WI, But I'm considering getting one for IN this year as well.

Good to know. Now that I think about it, all the rakers come together at that point.

Trust me when I say this. If you're not catching anything on those SK spinnerbaits, changing to another brand isn't going to improve your success rate. Yes, I have a favorite, but if I throw it in the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong retrieve speed and depth, I guarantee it won't catch anything.

Good answer Croak. The swivel accomplishes two things. It makes connecting the two lines a breeze and adds just a touch of weight not to mention doing what a swivel is intended to do. Even using straight mono, or fluoro it's a good idea.

I've had fish bleed from nicking one of the gills and with a quick hook removal and release they took off no worse for wear. I even caught one of those released later the same day. Next time, if you can, keep the fish submerged and remove the hook. Their blood coagulates in the water and the bleeding will stop.

First you need to decide on the rod composition. Some prefer glass, some composite and some a light and sensitive graphite. Personally, I prefer one with a mix that’s heavy on the side of graphite. IMO, any decent reel with the IPT you’re looking for will serve you well. One deep cranking tip: use the reel to get the crank to running depth and then pump the rod down from 9:00 reeling up slack as you bring it back up. It’s a lot easier in the wrist and the reel. If you loose contact with the bottom or cover, crank away until you do and repeat.

I use a number of techniques where using 10lb. test or less not only gives the presentation more action, but helps reduce the possibility of line detection. A 4 lb. bass can break 10lb. mono if there isn’t some give somewhere. Ergo, the need for a rod with some flex and a reel with a smooth drag. As for greasing carbontex drag washers, I do for reels with mono, or fluoro, not for ones with straight braid.