papajoe222

I recently stopped keeping a log, mainly because I've been trying to simplify things. That, plus I like the challenge of trying to figure out what it takes on any particular day, to catch fish. That, plus the fact that I found myself relying too much on the info in my logs. Not because the info didn't help, it did. That is one of the main reasons I suggest keeping a log to anyone that is serious about becoming a better angler. At the end of the season, you also have documentation of how well you progressed throughout the season, conditions that you had difficulty addressing and, like myself, find that your confidence bait was #3 when it came down to numbers or size of fish caught with it.

Although I've never used a Pond Magic, I do use BeetleSpins as a finess presentation. Don't concern yourself with the hook size unless you'll be rising with braid. The same goes for the smaller blades. The whole idea behind this type bait is to offer the fish something smaller. Think of your plastic worms. If all you carry is 6-7in. worms, I'd venture to say you don't drop shot or use the Ned rig. Same principle.

Ask yourself what changed? While you were 'caught' up with catching something changed. Unless you lucked into a feeding school of bass, they're likely still in the area. I'd switch to a more subtle presentation that targets a different part of the water column. Still no action? Odds are they changed location. Check out the area you were catching from with your electronics and try to determine why they were there. You likely won't find that group, but if you look for similar areas, you may find others.

I'm seeing a lot of novice anglers on the forums and I think a thread that defines some terms that most of us use would help take eliminate some of the confusion that goes hand in hand with starting out. Please add one or two, or ask about one that you find confusing. Structure refers to changes in the bottom, or it's composition. Examples would be a point, drop off, bluff or hump Cover refers to things that fish can either hide in, or use to ambush their prey. Examples would be weeds, wood, boulders, or man made cover such as docks or brush piles T-rig- C-rig- Mojo rig- etc. These are different ways to rig soft plastic baits.

Welcome Yes, it is better to get comfortable with one or two techniques. Some good suggestions as to what to start with, but I'll add this; Reaction, fast moving baits, appeal to the aggressive nature of bass. That's one reason bass fishing is so popular. The downside to starting out with them is the bass aren't always cooperative. Starting with a presentation that will appeal to them no matter what mood they're in has a higher percentage of success. Soft plastics rigged weedless or T-rigged fit that bill perfectly. Gain confidence in that type of presentation and then add one that appeals to active fish and you'll have the basics down pat.

I bought into this reasoning for a long time: When a fish looks up, what does it see? The underside of the bait or its belly, so white or black are the only colors you need. I'll be the first to admit color is never my first consideration when choosing a bait. Although I agree with the belly color, what about the rest of the bait? How often is a bait positioned directly above a bass? More than likely the fish is off to the side, or at the very least, sees it approaching. A fast presentation like a buzzer, doesn't give the fish a good look, so white and black are great options. But often, with hard baits, a slower presentation is most productive. That's when body color can make a difference.

Don't focus on the lake. Although water clarity should be taken into account, it's a condition you'll be facing, just like wind, cold fronts, rising or falling water, etc. and adjust your presentations accordingly. Search 'clear water' for some suggestions. Focus on the fish and their location. What are the bass doing now? Fall migration, or summer locations. Locate the fish first and then concern yourself with what to catch them with.

I grew up across the street from the original Dad's Root Beer plant in Chicago and even though it isn't produced there any more, it's still my favorite. I've never heard of HEB, but then you've likely never heard of Dad's

I all but abandon bottom presentations, targeting the middle and upper parts of the water column. Crankbaits become my primary go to from early to mid-autumn. A white jig with a clear or white Kalin's Grub trailer will take over that spot once the temps drop into the mid 50's targeting the same depths. Once temps drop below 50, blade baits and hair jigs

I've heard comments that for the majority of fresh water species, building on the spline isn't important because the thinner blanks don't generate sufficient torque under load to be noticeable. What's your opinion? As long as I'm on the subject, when building a two piece rod, how do you find the spline?

To me, having a fish mount in my study keeps my spirits up, expectations of a bigger PB alive and memories of not only catching it, but those that were with me when I did. A photo on a frame just doesn't do that for me. That fish was caught back in '87 while fishing with two good friends that have since passed on. I've since bested that catch. Both times while fishing by myself. I considered having them mounted at the time,but couldn't convincce myself. Chances are, you'll catch something bigger and I hope you will. The question you need to ask yourself is how much does catching that fish mean to you and why do you want a mount.

Mine was: Study the fish you want to target and then study the forage they target. I got into bass fishing because I would occasionally catch a few when walleye fishing. I went out and bought a few 'bass' lures and spent many a day fishing those walleye hang outs in search of bass. Once I read up on seasonal movements, bass being ambush as well as schooling feeders and their preference in forage in northern, natural lakes, I began catching on a fairly regular basis. I still have fishless days 50 yrs. later, but it's not because I don't understand my quarry.

Shallow to deep; Mann's Baby 1-minus Norman Fat Boy Fat Free Fingerling Deep Little N and Fat Free Shad Norman DD22 and SK 6XD

Generally speaking, I like a rod under 7ft. Med. Mod.Fast. with a shorter handle. If I know I'll be sitting, I'll go longer as I'll be working it with the rod tip up.

Old, but good.

This is kind of like asking a hunter how close he can get to his prey without first asking him how long a shot he feels he can comfortably make. How close do you feel you can accurately pitch. If you can't pitch 30ft, the answer for you will be different. I know you're asking is how close can you get before spooking the fish, but the further away you stay the better your chance of not spooking the fish.

The area I live in influences wages. As an example, fast food, part time employees make as much as you and many never finished high school. You're still young and can still spend an hour or two of your free time on your education. I didn't finish college until I was 30 and had a family.

Yea, $20hr. Was good money back then, but the 15-20 hrs. overtime a week is what contributed to my retirement @ 58. That and not spending $99 on a Curado ?

I didn't see you list rigging backward (one of my favorites), or with an internal jig. I'm guessing you'll be fishing vegetation. If that is what you'll be fishing, don't count out punching with a tube. I haven't used anything but a tube for punching since I first tried a tube.

That $10 difference was a half hours wages for me in '94. If it were only that now, I'd likely be a Shimano guy........NOT, but it's a logical argument.

I do just the opposite of J F. I start slow and speed up if I'm not getting any reaction. Sometimes giving the fish a good look at your bait is a good thing, but like others, I switch up speed prior to changing color. When I really think about it, I'll change the size or type of bait before even considering color.

Ultra dink. I like that, especially because I fish for them on a regular basis. I have to admit though, that one is really impressive .

When fishing with soft plastics as well as jigs, you are going to experience many different types of bites bisides seeing your line move off to the side, or a profound bump. When you se your line moving off to the side, the fish already has the bait in its mouth, a solid bump on the other hand, could be a number of things including the fish sucking in your worm, but on the other hand she could have had it in her mouth and spit it out and that is what you felt. i always assume the fis has taken the bait and set the hook. How you set the hook is just as important as the equipment you use. Even with the best of both, you'll still miss fish if they don't have the bait and hook completely in their mouth. Give them a second or so after you feel that bump, drop your rod tip, reel in the slack and set the hook. oh yea. Welcome to the forums.

Like anything else, if taken care of your cork handles will last a long time without treatment. Cork sealer will prolong its life by sealing out the elements that can lead to dry and pitted cork. The added benefit is you get a better grip on the rod. My suggestion is to use the rod until you can get some U40 cork sealer and then do as WRB suggested. After applying it, if you prefer the feel of untreated cork, you can always wash it off.

LOL I haven't fished a Fluke in a few seasons. I recently broke out my box and the first thing I did was nose hook it. I couldn't remember who first showed that way of rigging to me. Come to find out it was someone on this site eight years ago.