papajoe222

I like your choice of optics dtux. My next purchase will be a Vortex with the zero set. What the magnification on that one? Now, Way2slow is the kind of shooter that really knows how to get the most out of his weapons. What is it they say? A good gun will shoot well no matter the shooter, but it takes a good shooter to determine what is a good gun.

After six weeks of trial and error, I believe I've finally found the Rx for my rifle. Brass is LC, TTL 1.750, 68gr Hornady Match BTHP, 23.5g Varget and the length from the ogive is 1.770 Using H4895 produced a slightly larger group with two rounds almost touching, but the Varget was most consistent. Temp. was 58 and there was little to no wind. Rifle is a Savage Model 25 Lightweight Varmint 1.9 twist 24in. barrel and the scope is a Weaver 6X24X50mm (I think). From a bench with a sandbag rest. Of the three groups, 11/16in. was the best.15/16in. the worst and the third was a shade under 3/4in. Needless to say, I'm a little pumped! If anyone has a recipe they'd like to share, please do. Now I just need to figure out how to attach a pic

I've attempted to repair both a SS Jr and a Super Spook, both of which cracked above the line tie. For some reason, super glue sealed the cracked area, but the body began separating along the seam above the repair. I don't know if there was some interaction between it and whatever glue was used when making them. I ended up using rod building two part epoxy finish on the entire lure. No more leaking.

I've already started reorganizing some of my tackle and was surprised to learn that the one style of bait I have the most of are crankbaits. Between, wake baits, shallow medium and deep runners, flat sided and fat bodied, not to mention suspending and silent versions, they outnumber all my other hard baits combined. I half expected my jig collection to come out on top, but the only baits that come close in numbers are my tubes, only because I don't count them individually, but by the bags. As you can easily guess, I have a lot of tubes. So what lure type dominates your tackle? If it's a soft plastic, what type (worms, craws, frogs, etc.)?

I just recently started using duolock snaps with my cranks for the same reason Goose does, but I've been removing the split ring on the baits. Not that I'm lazy (truth be told, I am), but I don't have bi-focal sunglasses and retying requires removing them. I constantly check my line and knots. My only regret is that I didn't use them in my tourney days as I likely wasted 20-30min. over the course of a day, cutting off and tying on different cranks.

Most of the lures I've found have been entangled on one of mine when I retrieved it. My telescopic lure retriever has not only saved me many times its cost, but added a good number of cranks to my collection.

One of the many joys in my life that I can repeat on a regular basis, is to see a child"s face light up with joy. Seeing their face light up when they catch their first fish is one way I can do that.

My favorite Spook, for most of the last decade, was a Super Spook Jr that was one of the few I've owned that would walk easily with a feathered treble on the back. It was one of those 'one in a hundred' lures that just seemed to out catch other identical ones I have. I was fishing the downwind side of a cut between two islands and had just released my second brute in five minutes. In my haste to get that puppy back out there, I never checked my line. The knot popped just as I released and that awesome lure sailed over the tree line of the island never to be seen. I even offered a reward for anyone finding and returning it.

I'm done fishing for the year, put the boat away until next March. Depending on the season and time of day when I'm after numbersI'll either work shallow to deep, or deep to shallow. Where I begin is determined prior to launching. Once I contact fish, I'll stick to whatever structure I'm on until the bite dies and then search deeper/shallower. On lakes having pike and Muskie, I may start mid depth. I learned this lesson a long time ago; Never abandon active fish. I rarely run my T/M constantly the only exception is in the early pre-spawn and fall migration periods when the fish are on the move,

I like a bait that gets through the canopy easily, but offers a slower fall without appendages that, although slow the fall, tend to catch the vegetation. For that reason a creature tube like Big Bite Baits is what I reach for. That, or just a big tube. There's not a lot of plastic to hinder a good hook set either.

Just a heads up. High modulus blanks on sale for 75% off. Just in time for my birthday.It's awesome when you can pick out your own gifts........I ordered two

I would say; Forget the large mouth and target the smallies for the same reason WIGuide mentioned. Low and slow if you do go after the LM. I'm assuming you'll be targeting a natural lake, so look for faster tapering drop offs. The smallies should be suspending just off the drop and the LM most likely will be close to the base along the drop.

My order came yesterday. Faygo1979 was right, the trim rings appear to be on par with other suppliers. The reel handle looks awesome, but then I'm a sucker for bling. It's a little heavier than I anticipated, but I chalk that up to the burl wood knobs and the four bearings. BTW, it does measure 85mm which is how they listed it. Not overly impressed with price (plus shipping) and quality of the trim rings, the only thing that made it appealing was the free shipping they offered me. Unless you're ordering quantities, the long wait isn't worth saving a few pennies.

If it works, these are the trim rings I have ordered; They combine shipping on multiple items. The bottom link is for a carbon reel handle that I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rodcraft-Winding-Check-for-Rear-Grip-W-26M-Rod-Building-/191895335958?var=&hash=item2cadda7416:m:m1snqQsc-nnJ3CiqGhXuQfw http://www.ebay.com/itm/191833385826?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=490869401984&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

About the only two times I use a plastic trailer are in the spring to both slow the bait down and add bulk/size to the bait and when targeting pike and muskie for the same reasons. For bass in the spring my number one pick is a Kalin's Lunker Grub and for those toothy gals, it's a Fat Swing Impact or BPS Squirmin Shad. BTW, these are also my favorites for a swim jig trailer.

Just wondering if anyone has used any of their components? They're based in South Korea and have a large assortment of components for sale on the auction site. I ordered a number of winding checks and was happy with them.

If you only plan on changing out one or the other and the deepest crank you'll be throwing is a DT-16, it's a toss up IMO. A H/Mod. Fast composite rod will take some of the strain off as will a lower gear ratio reel. If you do go with changing out the rod, get one with a long handle that you can tuck under your arm. That will all but take your wrist out of the equation. I didn't use my deep cranking reel once this year after I started cranking this way.

Along with trreading on a smaller trailer, try trimming the skirt back to the hook bend. This will give the jig a much smaller look yet still transmit the information back to you.

That's because there aren't any bass in that state. He uses a green board when he makes his videos and just crops the images of him standing in his boat out in the driveway. ? He learned that trick from a former member.

If your cast control is set with zero tension on the spool shaft, a little spool play is normal on most baitcasters. Are you sure the noise you hear isn't from the handle knobs? If you're unable to locate the source of the noise, I'd return it for exchange prior to spooling line on it.

WOW! I think the most I've paid to ship a rod via USPS was $18. The only reason I can think of for that outrageous cost would be that the package was oversize. Length + Girth, but that may not be the case. Did you ask the clerk to break down the charges for you?

Rigging with a jig as pictured with the open hook, isn't a good presentation for cover. You will get hung up frequently. It is, however, the best rigging to get the most out of a tube's action. If cover is sparse or nonexistent, rig as pictured with light line (8lb. max) and if there's bass in the area, you should get bit. If there's grass or brush in the area, 'stupid' rigging with the same jig heads will preserve the action and eliminate the majority of hang ups. Tubes and wacky rigged Senkos are my go to finesse baits.

Over the years, I've tried some really weird things. The majority involved tinkering with existing baits,I even altered a cheap craw crank to run backwards. Two of the most productive things I've done is Carolina rigging an Original Rapala and subsequently just about every shallow running crankbait I've ever owned. The other is drop shotting a hair jig in cold water. I plan on trying that one out through the ice this winter.

Back in the 80's, I participated in a tagging program on my home waters. The lake is only 140 acres and only 100 fish were tagged. The following season, I caught four fish that I'd caught and released the previous year that had been tagged. By the 5th season (1990) I had caught 14 fish that I'd caught previously. By 1995 I only caught 3 fish total, that were tagged. That was the last year I recorded a tagged fish.

Seriously? Aren't you defeating the main purpose of using tungsten weights in the first place, sensitivity? Why not just dip lead weights in the rubber paint and save yourself a bunch of cash?