papajoe222

I really want to use FC for more than just cranks, but I'm constantly breaking off at the knot when setting the hook on just about any single hook presentation. I love the sensitivity vs. mono, but I can't remember the last time mono failed me. I've tried different knots with the same results, along with various brands. Do you adjust your hook-set when using FC?

I do tend to use a swim jig more like a spinnerbait than a jig, letting it fall on a tight line just to give me an idea as to where it is in the water column. Unlike a spinnerbait, I like to keep them close to the bottom. A Kalin's Lunker Grub is my #1 choice with a RageTail Grub getting the call in murkier water.

90% of the time I don't use any trailer on a hair jig. I believe the subtlety of a hair jig is it's greatest asset and any trailer takes away from that. When I do add one, it's almost always a Berkley Power Grub and I do it more for the scent than the action.

If I were to venture a guess and that is what it would be, I'd say it had more to do with the size of the offering vs. the other offerings. I'd also venture a guess that conditions changed over the course of the afternoon and the fish became more aggressive. I'm just guessing though.

I'm a little confused with the topic as how it relates to your question. If you're asking if cranking that ledge when water temps are below 40 is an option, I'd attempt to discourage you even if they are suspending baits. If you're asking if you could use them instead of jerkbaits for pre-spawn conditions then the answer is a big yes. In fact, the closer it gets to spawning, they'd get the nod over the jerkbaits in my book.

I decided to give spinning equipment another chance and will be doing a build on a 7ft. blank. I know next to nothing about spinning reels as far as size vs. recommended line. I'm looking for something that can handle 8-12lb. line, but doesn't weigh 9oz. I'd like to keep within a $100 budget. Any recommendations? Thanks

I rarely yo-yo a lure with my reel. Most often I'll raise the rod tip and pick up slack on the fall. Other times I'll let it fall on slack line and a fish will just 'be there' when I go to raise the rod tip again. Lipless cranks are just like most any other lure in that the bass will prefer a particular retrieve at any given time. This is why it is so important to know what you were doing when a fish hits your lure. The majority of the time, if you can repeat that retrieve, you will repeat that success. This is also why, before switching lures when the bite dies, you should experiment with other retrieves. The fish's attitude may have changed, but that doesn't mean it's preference for a particular bait has

I use a free swinging trailer hook in all sorts of cover. The only cover I don't use that type is in brush, then I use one with shrink tubing that stays straight behind the bait. I proved to a friend the benefits of a trailer hook when I out fished him eight to one. Six of them were hooked on the trailer. He uses them now.

Hair jigs and blade baits. If they're still venturing to the shallows, a jerk bait or lipless crank. On the natural lakes around the Twin Cities, when that water temp gets to the mid 40's the majority of bass will have headed for their wintering spots, but you can still pick up some walleye from any green weeds close to a drop off. If you're into multi-species, a #3 Mepps.

I prefer softer tubes with internal jigs, but there is really nothing to back up that preference. I get more bites on TenderTubes and hand poured ones because I throw them more. If I'm Texas rigging, I'll go with something with a more solid head and thicker walls.

The clearer the better, but I've been known to throw them on a sunny day in water with 4ft. of visibility. Any murkier than that, I'd opt for something fatter that will move more water.

I have the jumbo and it isn't big enough for me. I would base your decision on how many bags of worms you plan to carry in it. You can always purchase more to fill up the bigger bag

It'd be great to have one around here. I've a bunch of gear I could possibly unload and maybe pick up a deal as a bonus.

Rarely on willow blades, but I do like them on a Colorado when I feel I need to attract more attention with more flash, or if I want the bait to ride a little higher or fall a little slower.

I think a lot of it has to do with the fish's forage preference one year vs. another. Bluegill had been the primary bass forage for a number of years on a local lake. I don't know how many lures I colored or changed skirts on to imitate bluegill. Early this year I only caught a handful of bass on that pattern. I found out sometime in June that 3"-4" perch had been stocked just after ice out. Perch patterns have been outproducing the old standby big time all season.

As long as the water isn't super clear, I'll go with standard or larger profile presentations, but they don't seem to produce as well in the clearer water. I've found that downsizing seems to work better under those conditions. For Night fishing, of course,it shouldn't make a difference and bigger baits would be my choice then.

Texas rigging a tube would be my choice for the pond as an internal jig gives the tube a spiraling fall and between that and the location of the line tie, you'll be bringing back weeds more often than not. On the other hand, the internal jig is a great option for the reservoir as that spiral action is what makes tubes a great choice for a soft plastic.

I'm a graduate of the school of 'Show Them Something Different' and quickly working a jerk bait in the fall is something guys in my neck of the woods don't do often. Soft or hard, I find them to be excellent producers until the water temp. drops below 50. I know I'm not the only one, but I thought I'd give the rest of you a heads up on a productive bait for the fall.

My recommendation is just the opposite of what everyone has told you (fish slow). I rely on cranks, spinnerbaits and fast moving topwaters when the water temp. drops under 70 until it gets into the low/middle 50's. If your best times are around sunrise and sunset (low light), you need to look at changing your tactics during those 'off times.' Not necessarily the baits you're using, but your presentation. The fish will still relate to cover and structure, but will hold tighter to them during the 'bright light' hours and you need to adjust accordingly.

If I'm able to choose a time, I prefer afternoon. More for light penetration because of the sun's angle than for the little effect it has on water temp. More reflection off my baits makes a difference in how many fish can see them and I believe that's a big benefit this time of year.

So what's the full title of this movie Signs you guys are talking about? I did a search on Netflix and came up with nada.

There are two ways that I attack fishing clear water. One is with fast/irratically moving baits and the other is with smaller, slow presentations. I lean on soft plastics almost exclusively. Curly tail grubs on a jig head and Flukes worked quickly should get some response presented above or along the sides of cover. Spinnerbaits with smaller willow blades and cranks with narrow lips can be worked fast also. Fish that show interest, but don't take those types of presentations will often times go for something slower or smaller. A Fluke can do double duty here, but keep some stick worms (Senkos) handy and don't forget wacky rigging when all else fails.

That is the wife's favorite. Big Trouble, though not what I'd call a horror movie, is a great flick. Think I'll wach it again.

Jeepers Creepers. Spooked me big time.

My guess is that they've always been there, but the presence of other predatory fish, scarcity and competition of and for the size and type of forage that is available has kept their numbers minimal. Those that survive do so by avoiding the areas where you likely fish for those other species and that could be the reason for the lack of your paths crossing.