papajoe222

A tube with either an internal nose weight , or with a tube jig. That spiral fall is a kin to wacky rigging a Senko, the fish just can't resist it.

Heading out to a small lake that has some big bowfin tomorrow. We use big shiners, but if they're notmoving, the bite is slow I was thinking of doing some casting while bobber watching. What lures would you use for this?

The channel would likely only produce fish when they are on the move as it sounds like the only obvious structure. The lack of cover, however, will keep them from holding there. Any cover on the adjacent flat, as you've found, should hold fish thecloserto the reek, the better. Don't forget the other side of the creek bed and areas adjacent to any turns in the creek

Just make sure your hitch ball is high enough that the trailer is as level as possible. Too much tongue weight will put too much strain on your suspension and transmission.

I thought the topic was open water froggin? I'm confused.

Silly, that's a mattress and box spring not a bed.

A 9mm to my right temple. Seriously, why torture myself. I'd be throwing a jig and wishing I had a Spook, or throwing a Spook and wishing I had a Senko. The 9mm and I never have to go through the torture.

I make and use them in both cold water and finess situations. I tie them on a stout hook as many of the waters I fish contain pike and they can straighten a light wire hook. One of my most productive presentations is to suspend one under a slip bobber moving it frequently. Most hits occur as the jig falls back under the bobber.

They don't need to be black or dark colored. A bass' forage doesn't change colors at night and they have no trouble feeding then. Bass have excellent night vision up close, much better than humans. A dark color does let them perceive your offering at a greater distance, but their strike zone doesn't change because of it. If their strike zone is 3ft.,they are going to be able to see it no matter the color. Whatever lures you use during the day are just as productive at night, but if you have one in black, I'd use that one.

One of two things come to mind. The first was already noted; the worm isn't rigged straight. The second involves a question; Are you using spinning gear? Either way, it isn't the line. Something is causing line twist.

Rather than replace your line, you can just replace the 60yrds. or so that is used. Fill the base of your spool with cheap mono and the rest with your favorite fluorocarbon. When it comes time to replace it, you'll only need 60yrds. Depending on the size of the spool you purchase, you should be able to do this at least two times.

My guess is your hook-set, or your equipment. The minimum I use for frogs in heavy cover is a M/H rod and 30lb. braid and that's only if I don't have my frog rod on board. It's a 7'6" Heavy action and my baitcaster is spooled with 60lb. braid. I work my frogs with the rod tip down. When a bass takes the frog, as soon as I can feel it, that rod tip comes up with a snap. If she still has it when I do that, my rod never gets past the 10:00 position. Do I still miss fish? Yep, but there are times when I get my frog back and the hooks are imbeded in the body and other times the fish has a mouthful of junk along with the frog. Missed fish are a part of frog fishing, but one for twelve means something is wrong. A decent average would be 6 or 7 out of 10 in heavy cover.

Devils Horse. Used to be the only prop bait in my tackle box. Now I only have one and it hasn't been wet for a few seasons. A WoodChopper and Torpedo are my most often used prop baits now.

If the roller bearing on the bail of your reel isn't spinning freely, you'll end up with line twist after just a few casts. Check it by sliding your finger over it. If not, a simple removal, cleaning and lube of the bearing will Dix the problem. BTW, changing lines is not a solution.

I think you'll find that sport fishermen, as a group, are far less likely to consume alcohol while operating their boats than pleasure boaters. I, for one, would be interested to discover differently. Anyone know of any surveys that ask specifically that?

Most often I have two jig rods on deck. One (a 7'6" M/H) will always have an Arkie style jig, either 3/8oz. or1/2oz. tied on. The other could have a swim jig, shakey head, football, or stand up style depending on my game plan for the day. I'm not brand loyal, but when it comes to a plastic trailer Rage Tails have taken honors the past few seasons.

White man known by many names. Chief Long in the Nose never hear this one.

Is that why people look at me funny when I tell them I'll be right back, I gotta paahk the kah?Misused, affect....misspelled, trailer 'jig trailor color?'

I wouldn't put too much faith in the negative reviews on a topwater rod. A six footer is a good length regardless of where you're fishing from. Fast, or mod.fast on the tip depending on your choices in topwaters.

The presence or lack of current makes a big difference in your plan when fishing bridges. Many guys will go directly to the pilings on either side of the creek bed,which is a good starting point for active fish when there is current. You can then work the other pilings and out to the riprap banks. The lack of current may be the reason the locals ignore the bridges and that's a mistake. Would you avoid a major piece of cover on a creek bed that wasn't visible above the surface? Choose a presentation you have confidence in and don't forget to target the up current side of the pilings current or not. Debris will collect there adding a different form of cover. A systematic approach will keep you focused.

To answer your second question, no the length and weight of the rod you use doesn't cause the affliction. It can, however amplify the strain put on your forearm. A rod that is tip heavy will put more strain on the forearm than one that is heavy in the butt section or balanced. In an effort to reduce the strain using your current combos, you could move your hand up the grip (I like to rest my little finger on the trigger of my casting rods when cranking), or you could add some weight to the butt of the rod. Depending on the diameter of the rear grip, taping nickles or quarters to it will give you an idea of how much additional weight is necessary to balance it.

Thanks for the info guys. Old dog here. I just always assumed that a charger charged at a set voltage, never considered that them and the amps varied. Auto charge to me meant the charger would shut down on its own. Glad to learn something AND know there isn't a problem with my system.

Oh. I can think of a couple that would fit the description he gave. Why does it seem like most of (all) the bass fishing magazines have taken a nose dive?

On one of the lakes I fish, there is only one submerged bridge and the creek bottom there is 22ft. It gets a lot of pressure with jigs and C-rigs, so I fish it with a Norman Thin N on a 1/2oz. Booyah Boo Rig. The fish rarely if ever, see a small crank that deep and I've left that old bridge with five or six nice keepers brought to my net on more than one occasion. I used to fish a crappie sized crank on a C-rig there, but with all the chunk rock , I'd get hung up on every third cast or so. The Boo Rig lets you keep the nose of the rig up out of harm's way and I've even run a Bomber Model A on a 2ft. leader behind one.

So I just read my long awaited March issue of this magazine. It's been on the store shelves for over a month, but I have a subscription so I don't expect to receive it in a timely matter. It took all of fourteen minutes to read. What a rip off! Twenty full page ads, another dozen with a third or more if the page containing ads, four full page photos plus the full page photos with the lead in half paragraph and it only contained 48 pages! Guess who isn't renewing his subscription?