TotalNoob

If you mean, how do I know that mine weighs 1/2oz (17g)? Because I weighed it on a scale. It's actually closer to 3/5oz as 17g = 0.5997 oz. Okay I'm sure there's a reason why this is the case (doesn't make practical sense, or should at least be listed as such) ... but cutting to the chase, is there any way to figure out which one of the listed head weights might = the actual 3/5oz weight of the one I currently own?

Okay so, wait a minute. Do you guys own any of these? I weighed mine and it's 1/2oz (17g). The options I see available on TW, Amazon, ebay, etc etc only have the following much lower weights? Am I missing something here? Or is this 1/2oz that I own a discontinued weight? Size Stock Price Qty 1/8oz 5+ $3.69 3/16oz 5+ $4.19 5/16oz 5+ $4.19

Nailed it! Thank you so much guys

I seem to have finally found a topwater that might actually produce in my desert/gizzard shad reservoir. I've had this buzzbait in my tackle for awhile, it was my father's. These from yesterday evening. I can't say how old it is but I'm certain it isn't any newer than at least 8-10 years. I see no lettering or markings of any kind anywhere on it. I'm hoping perhaps the rivets and/or pattern on the prop is distinct enough to be identifiable by someone. I'd like to have at least one more of these. Any feedback appreciated.

OP did you get this figured out? If so, please advise how! In April, I bought the exact same reel from the exact same seller and am having the exact same problem. This was my first high end reel and it's left a bad taste in my mouth. Too late to return by the time I fully realized the problem (and that it wasn't related to me). Line piles heavily to the right of spool (handle side) regardless of line type and it's absolutely unrelated to how it's being spooled on ... I've since spooled other baitcasters and line spools on nice and evenly; this problem is exclusive to my Curado. My advice, send that thing back while you can. You aren't the only one with this exact issue.

Where does a Carbon Fiber blank fall in the fishing application category? Generally speaking, I know Graphite is for sensitivity (bottom applications) and Fiberglass is for moving baits w treble hooks where sensitivity isn't as important. What are the pros and cons of Carbon Fiber? Didn't mean to add any confusion with terminology. I just meant that the rod is meant to absorb some of the shock involved with keeping a fish pinned with treble hooks.

Yea that article from here on BR was literally the only info I could find on these rods prior to purchase. I actually made a thread a couple weeks ago asking if anyone had any experience with these rods. Again this may be a stupid question but is Carbon Fiber the same thing (or similar) to Fiberglass? At least for fishing applications? How comfortable would you feel throwing crankbaits on this rod, despite it's stated purpose?

I got this Okuma 6'8" M rod that's specific for "Topwater & Jerkbait". On the rod itself it states "Carbon" and on the attached tag it states "...carbon blank". I've attached a few pics for reference. I don't see the word "Graphite" anywhere. This may seem like a silly question but I would like to make sure I understand fully ... is this a fiberglass rod? I understand fiberglass is for the purpose of having more "flex" and leverage when fighting a treble-hooked fish, which would make sense here. I only see the word "Carbon", though. Additionally, if this is a fiberglass rod then can I assume it would also be good for throwing smaller (~1/4oz) crankbaits? The rod is rated for 1/8oz to 3/4oz (8-17lb line) and that's the exact range of topwaters and jerkbaits I'll be throwing. I just got a Daiwa Fuego CT to pair with this and I'm currently trying to determine the best line to put on it. I'm definitely using braid but where I get a little fuzzy is determining the lb test to match with what lb test leader (and whether leader should be mono or fluoro). I assume mono leader for topwater ... but what lb test? What lb braid would you spool and to what lb leader for the above applications? Any/all input appreciated.

Texas Rig, I believe, has to be the standard for bank anglers (like me). I mean, I can get multiple Bass just about every time I go out to my reservoir. The hotter it is, the more finesse I make my presentation. Most days anymore I'm just starting out with plastics and altogether skipping any faster presentations. It's just nice to be able to catch fish and the Texas Rig will get that done for you. I've never used a GY Senko, I haven't needed to. Strike King and Yum Dingers have caught me some nice fish. Just start with either of those imo and use them to catch fish/build confidence and also because your rigging will be awkward and crooked at first so why get the hang of rigging using expensive plastics? If you feel the need to upgrade to more expensive plastics do it after you've got the hang of the entire process, from rigging to thumb in fish's mouth. Only thing I'd say is to just spring for fluorocarbon line right off the bat. If you're totally new to Bass fishing I'd skip the braid for now until you've built some confidence. FC is strong and sensitive and abrasion resistant. You just can't go wrong with it. You'll appreciate it's sensitivity right off the bat. Good Luck and Have Fun!

I feel ya .. I'd be sick to my stomach. As things currently stand I could never fathom myself spending that much for a rod ... but I also know I've had that exact feeling about a lot of other things in my life and they often came to fruition. Definitely not anytime soon that's for sure! Hope the new rod is awesome for ya ?

Yup, good point. I'm putting them in plastic bags.

Yes, I was quite upset when I saw the box it was shipped in. I worked at UPS last holiday season and I know how much they have to literally cram packages inside those trucks. The other rod came in exactly the type of packaging I expected. A reinforced, solid tube. This thing wasn't bent in any way whatsoever. It can't be bent under typical abuse! Well, I'll go ahead and keep this rod and use it for the first time later today or tomorrow morning probably. I know it "only" cost $72 but that isn't exactly nothing to me. A year and a half ago neither I nor the boss would have imaged me spending $72 on a single rod (and yes, I see what all is available out there). When I started to catch fish consistently and develop a true passion we both kind of became okay with stepping up in equipment. Point is, I just hope this rod is okay. I wonder if anyone would be interested in posting known sellers who ship rods in solid tubes, and/or known sellers who don't ship in solid tubes? UPS/Fedex charge by dimensional weight for shipping, so a formula based on the LxWxH of the package is how they charge. In other words, the actual weight of the item isn't relevant (unless actual weight exceeds the dimensional weight formula). For the purpose of shipping rods, it would cost a seller exactly the same to ship in a cheap box as it would to ship in a reinforced tube. My Experiences: SportsmansOutfitters: Reinforced tube Overstock: Flimsy cardboard box

In a bit of a pickle about the status of a rod I recently purchased online. I purchased 2 rods from eBay during the 20% coupon they had a week or so ago. One rod was from SportmansOutfitters and one was from Overstock. These are the first rods I've purchased online. The SportmansOutfitters rod came in a heavy duty reinforced tube (quite a bit longer than the rod itself even). This is obviously rock solid and I have zero hesitation about the integrity of the rod during shipping. This is basically how I assumed all rods shipped. The other rod came in a flimsy, triangle shaped, very simple cardboard box. It was obvious upon first glance that the box had multiple creases/folds in the middle. When I pushed on the end of the box I could see how much the box had to bend to create the creases and it seems like quite a bit. The rod itself shows no signs of damage but I feel unsure about how much stress it was under and for how long given the bending. I was reading in another thread where a company ships their rods this way but they weren't broken upon arrival so the poster felt fortunate about that. Below I've attached a couple pics of the box, one that shows the creasing in the middle (where it was obviously bent to fit in a UPS truck or otherwise bent somewhere along the line) and the other pic showing how much bending the box had to go through to create the existing creases. For those of you who have received rods in these kinds of boxes, what were your thoughts on the state of the rod? Have you seen boxes with this much creasing? I'm concerned about the structural integrity of the rod having been prematurely stressed (if that's a thing), but I'm not sure to what extent the rods are designed to be under stress and still function normally. I'd have zero hesitation about returning but my concern is the fact that the rod isn't visually broken; that after the rod is inspected and no obvious physical or visual damage is found to it (assuming it makes it back in one piece) that they'll put me on the hook for shipping before refunding. I feel like I'm in a pickle on this .. I want the rod but I'm worried about how it was transported. I'd send it back and find another one from another seller but I'm worried that if no damage is visible to the eye that it will be considered just a customer return ... and I bet the shipping on these is not cheap. I paid $72 for the rod total so if even 1/3 of that is shipping I feel like there's a cost-benefit thing to be considered here. Would appreciate any thoughts or feedback on this. At an absolute minimum, going forward I won't be purchasing rods from sellers who don't package them for appropriate protection during transit. Not sure if it actually bent this much (or for how long) but I'm not forcing this bend with my hand ... it folds fairly easily to about this point.

Wow I literally came here to start a thread for basically this exact thing and found this right off the bat. Looks like a 2012 thread was recently resurrected on this. A lot of the solutions shown here are look pretty viable and I guess it's more of a "what works for you" kinda thing as far as organization goes. At home, I keep my plastics in original bags and sort similar style plastics into large freezer ziplock bags. These go into a plastic container or a small plastic organizer with pull-out drawers. No problems at home. What about bank anglers though? I've been trying one thing after another this year trying to get a workable method of carrying soft plastics/tackle efficiently and effectively without trying to carry too much or too little. Thus far not much success. I've tried everything from the obvious backpack to a fly fishing vest to a fanny pack snap-on around the waist (falls down slowly while walking) ... to a large, over-the-shoulder sling type deal that holds rods (but not really tackle in any organized way). None of these are really efficient or comfortable or stable while fishing/moving from spot to spot. I've finally recently settled on this modest over-the-shoulder bag. Not sure if this is the ultimate solution but it's what I found to work the best thus far. As far as plastics go, I still struggle. I recently put some of my creature type baits in this little organizer. It helps as far as not having to sort through multiple plastics bags within the pouch while standing on the hot shore of the reservoir, but 1) I feel like I might be losing scent in the plastics (due to non airtight storage) and 2) This is only efficient for smaller creature baits. I'd really like to do this (or something like this) with worms/senko-type (longer) baits but the carrying pouch won't hold containers that are long enough to hold them in any meaningful quantity. What methods/solutions are you bank-angling guys out there using?

Curious what thoughts there are on using a BPS Bionic Blade 7'6" H/F to throw Swimbaits up to 2oz (it's rated 3/8 to 2oz)? Would this rod significantly under perform dedicated swimbait rods out there? Would it be a good (or at least acceptable) starting point?

Yea .. not to derail my original issue here but regarding the FG knot... I'm not exactly sure what classifies as "lighter" leaders but I've been using the FG to go from 20lb braid to 10 and 8lb FC. Literally not one single issue, it's almost unbelievable. When I snag and have to break, 100% of the time the palomar knot at the end of my leader is the failure point. On one amazing late April night earlier this year I landed 2 wiper, a couple dozen 16-17" walleye, and a 9lb/30" walleye using the same FG knot. I have zero doubt that FG knot would have been good for multiple sessions but I like to retie for confidence every session. As far as the half hitches coming loose, that did concern me as well when I was first tying it. My paranoia led me to do two half hitches and then a small uni to finish it off. The uni's thickness did stand out against the slimness of the rest of the knot but I otherwise had no issues with it. When I got comfortable with the knot and my confidence in it was solid, I stopped adding the small uni at the end (but continued doing 30-35 wraps). But this is for the above stated line applications, I couldn't speak at all to throwing heavy swimbaits and what not. Edit: Here's my tied 35 wrap FG from 30lb braid to 10lb fluoro. Goes right down into the spool (and out) with zero issues. We have finicky Walleye in this res in addition to Bass so learning a solid junction knot to connect fluoro to braid was important to me once I started taking fishing more seriously. I guess so much for not derailing my own thread ha ?

Mostly I'm referring to the potential for the rod to possibly break or weaken the line cast after cast after cast OR on a hookset that loads the rod abruptly (or a cast that loads the rod a abruptly). But I guess the braid wouldn't be at risk of breaking regardless of the load to the rod. I wouldn't have concerns moving to a 12lb leader and feeling better except that the suspending jerkbaits I mostly throw (main purpose of this setup) suspend differently (or move to a slow sink) with even the bump in line from just 10 to 12lb. Honestly, even 10lb isn't ideal (8lb is) but 10lb does seem to be okay as far as the suspension effect the line has on the jerkbaits. On the FG knot wraps is just because I read that for smaller diameter lines some extra wraps are recommended beyond 20. So I was was doing 30 and then one time I was thinking to myself "well I'm already at 30 on this thing might as well add a few more while I'm here". I don't have any reason to think the extra wraps make a difference I just typically tie it once prior to heading out and figure adding some extra wraps can't hurt.

I am getting ready to tie a leader onto my braid main line which is backed by 12 lb mono (uni knot there) on my baitcaster. The braid is 30lb (.28mm diameter). I use a 35x wrapped FG junction knot. This is basically how I set up my main spinning combo this past Spring but I've been getting used to a baitcaster this year (using just mono) and am setting this one up with the above specs. I typically now will tie on a 10lb fluoro leader (.30mm diameter). For the FG knot (which I have found to be incredibly thin & smooth with zero failures) the line diameters should be similar. My two concerns are: 1) The line rating on the Rod. The rod is a 6'9" MH/F (Veritas) with a recommended line rating of 12-20. Rated for 1/4 to 1oz lures. 2) The "heft" of my leader line. I use a lot of jerkbaits and I've found using too heavy a line has an adverse effect on their suspension. I identified 10lb fluoro to be a great line for virtually of the main jerkbaits I throw. Now, the reason I chose the MH over M rod was because of it's rating to be able throw heavier/longer jerkbaits (and farther). I fish a reservoir from shore so I'm trying to put a setup together that will aid me in covering as much water as possible. But now it appears I'm in the pickle of having too light a line for the rod rating yet bumping up line ratings will have an adverse effect on my presentation. Being quite new to some of the finer details of rod/lure/line/reel specifications, I don't quite know what to do here. I've got the 30lb braid spooled up and when I went to grab the 10lb fluoro leader was when this issue dawned on me. Could the rod itself break the line on a hookset or a cast (or any event that loads the rod)? Is that the concern as far as the rod ratings go? I know that (from reading other threads and information out there) most semi-serious or serious anglers seem to view rod ratings as generally just a guide and a lot of folks are comfortable going out of bounds for whatever reason. Should I be okay putting this together as is or are there concerns I should consider? Any/all feedback appreciated.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewdaiwafuegoct.html I just read that, thank you. Don't want to get ahead of myself but a cursory view of that site seems like it could be a good source of unbiased (or largely unbiased) reviews. I make this statement in contrast to the countless youtube channels and articles out there with the sole intent of just mindlessly pushing you toward putting the item in your cart. The review process was structured and rated in several metrics yet simultaneously easy to follow and understand. Thanks for showing me that site. As an amateur angler trying to navigate the marketplace I very much appreciate that kind of information.

Good stuff here, just what I needed honestly. Feeling a lot better today and definitely less frustrated. Fascinating stuff on the braking system on the Tatula/Fuego. Given my still proneness to backlashing (when I'm feeling like I can back it off just a bit), I feel like I'm pretty well sold on the magforce z system (for now). Troubled by the Twing comments. I do know that for some early season/clear water applications I will need my junction knot (FG) down in the spool and the mere thought of not being able to cast/retrieve completely uninhibited is as much a turnoff as the magforce z brakes are a turn-on. Currently I'm running 30lb braid to 10-15lb fluoro or mono (which sounds like it would pass) but I don't know what applications I might incorporate in the future. Honestly, the Twing thing kind of has me leaning in the other price point direction toward the Fuego CT, though it seems like the Tatula is possibly a little more durable which is important to me. I'm definitely in the camp of spending a little more in the short run for the long run payoff (hence the initial curado K purchase). I'll be thinking about this trade-off as I await the next ebay coupon code. In regards to the Curado K I purchased, it came from what seems to be reputable seller on ebay, American legacy fishing. I did check the box and reel upon arrival (as I check everything arriving from amazon and ebay these days) for signs of prior use/opening but if there were any they slipped past me. When I finally clearly identified the spool pile-up issue it was a month too late for return. I was still acclimating to a baitcaster at the time and was largely more comfortable throwing on my spinning gear while the bite was hot in the Spring. The seller pointed me toward Shimano directly. I called them and there is a form online I can fill out and send in to them with the reel. I assume this is manufacturer defect - I am quite careful and particular with my gear. When researching this issue I found buried deep within the comments on a youtube vid about "how to spool line on a baitcaster ... yada yada yada" someone commented that their line piled up to the right on their new curado K. Their description is identical to my experience. Can anyone provide any insight into their experience with sending in their reel to Shimano? Would this be the recommended route in this situation?

Is this the Tatula CT I'd be looking to buy ($99/ebay)? The one with the same frame as the Fuego CT but has more ball bearings and is all aluminum? New 2016 Daiwa Tatula CT Baitcast Fishing Reel 100HS Right hand 7.3:1 TACT100HS Or would I be looking for the 2017 version (and what's the difference)? Also someone mentioned in another thread that the Twing system doesn't work with or is difficult with leader knots. Is there any validity to this because if so that would be a total deal breaker.

I want to thank you guys for the responses. Regardless of how I made my feelings for this forum sound I just want to be 100% clear that I learn something every single time I'm here. Period. Reading through new and old threads is enlightening to say the least, even if some of it does lead to additional temporary frustration. This post has basically been boiling up inside in of me for probably the better part of 6 months now. It felt good to get it out honestly, and I'm thankful for the responses. I feel like the key question that needs defined is going to be something like "What is the best reel for my fishery?" As stated, we have the 3 black bass, eyes, and wiper. If I were dealing with bass and walleye only I don't believe I'd be diving too terribly deep into the fine detail of an $80 reel vs $120 vs $200 etc. Our Bass here (mostly smallmouth and spotted) aren't gigantic and there definitely aren't gorgeous 7, 8+ lb largemouths here. I believe my reservoir is what may be referred to as a desert reservoir - southern Colorado. There are some big Pike in some of the mountain lakes not too far from me, 2 hr drive tops. I've been there only once but I'm determined to land some big Pike as part of my fishing experiences. What I think about when I think about quality of a reel is that time in the future when I am definitely going to hook into a 15 to 20lb Wiper (gotta stay positive) - I don't want no stinking cheap reel in that moment of truth. But because that possibility exists primarily only in Spring and I guess maybe Fall, I probably don't need an arsenal of badass reels at my constant disposal. In April I purchased a Shimano Curado K because it was basically all the chatter. For really no other reason. The reviews looked great so I pulled the trigger on ebay with a coupon and paid like $134. I look back on it as an uninformed decision. I'm frustrated with the external brake dial as it seems to stick very heavily but mostly there seems to be something wrong with the level line guide. I've spooled mono, fluoro, and braid and regardless of line type there is always a "pile up" of line on the right side of the spool. The left side of spool is low but the right side is full. It's very consistent and specific. I have 2 other baitcasters and they don't this so I know it's not in the way I'm spooling. So I'm frustrated with that reel. It's been sitting in it's box for 3 months now and I'm not even sure what to do with it. Anyway, I feel like I need some basic "everyday" kind of equipment, for summer fishing but then in Spring and Fall I want something really solid (or solid enough) to handle a potential big wiper or pike.

Agreed. My broader point is that it feels an awful lot like the market is set up for an amateur to spend way too much money and be left with too much unused products before reaching that point. Thank you for the links. That's pretty much exactly what I'm doing, and that's exactly what I don't like about it.

I haven't been on this forum for very long but I've been spending a lot of time reading through a lot of threads, old and new. I came here looking for answers and often find myself more lost after reading through the information I find. This post is essentially a cry for help. Too much of my time and too much money (for me) is being spent researching endless products until I'm blue in the face and on purchases I'm not confident in. This circle of confusion has to stop because I'm not even sure how much I enjoy actual fishing anymore. I want to be better, I am getting better, I want to take logical next steps but it is very difficult in the information overload world we live in now. I'm just flat STUNNED at how complex and overwhelming all the options are. I feel like I'm probably in the majority of folks who either recently started fishing semi-seriously or got back into fishing (I'm the latter) and have been 1) completely overwhelmed at the options on the market and 2) confused as to what all these different options are, what their best applications are, and what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product. Easy game if you've been in it for years, beyond overwhelming if you haven't. For example, here's a post from an April thread that I recently found while researching - hopefully this can help make clear where my "beginner" confusion is: Thread Title: Daiwa Fuego ct vs shimano caenan Response: "Between the caenan and fuego specifically I'd have to go fuego. It's feature limited compared to the tatula but those magforce Z brakes are hard to beat." My thought process is a common one: I want to get a quality reel that doesn't break the bank that simultaneously has some lasting power/durability. There are apparently multiples of these "lower" tier options on the market (what a shock). Based on what I've read on this forum, the Daiwa Fuego CT seems to be a good choice (I'm DEFINITELY not trying to start a debate here) but how can I understand WHY? In that above response, it's noted that the Fuego CT is "feature limited". Okay, I like that, some honest thoughts on a product (vs all the crap Youtube vids with affiliate links etc). But what does "feature limited" mean exactly? What features are missing? So I research further... Among the many threads I locate is this thread from Nov '17 (Titled: Fuego CT vs Tatula CT) with the following response: "Have both. No performance difference, but they do look a bit different As far as colors and finish goes. Either is a great choice. If you can swing the extra 30 bucks I say tatula." If there is no performance difference and COLOR is the most notable difference between them, why would you recommend spending the extra $30 for the Tatula? Feels like there has to be a better reason this individual would recommend spending the extra $30. And by the way, what the heck does "CT" and "XT" and "Type R" stand for? Are we buying cars here? The worst part for me is, that particular thread ends with the OP (who asked the initial question) posting literally: "Found a better deal and got a Gen 4 Revo Sx for $75." Boom. Thread ends. And so now I start to look up this Gen 4 Revo Sx to try to understand IT'S characteristics last night (how is it different/better, is it more durable, etc) but fall asleep on the couch with laptop in lap and 13 tabs open in my browser when I wake up. Okay now, having said ALL that, I do feel like I'm gradually understanding some of the nuances better (more so on the rods than reels) BUT there absolutely has to be a better way to learn these things without breaking the bank in the process and being left with tackle I may or may not ever use. I, like many others probably, just want to make good, informed decisions and feel confident about them. Specifically, I ordered two rods a few days ago - One rod is an Okuma 6'8" MMF "Topwater/Jerkbait" (obvious purposes, mostly topwater though and possibly lighter jerks) and one is a 6'9" MH/F Abu Garcia Veritas that I hopeto use to throw heavier jerkbaits in the Spring and Fall. This Spring I learned from many a night fishing under moons that jerkbaits work very well in my fishery which contains all three Black Bass, Walleye, and some Wiper. Anyway, I saved about $40 bucks total on these two rods using a 20% ebay coupon, so I spent $141 total for the two rods. I feel like that's a good deal, I'm very hopeful the rods work out for the purposes stated, I guess only time will tell. Now, I naturally need reels for these rods... so the research begins again. Those above threads I referenced (and many others I didn't) ARE generally helpful, please don't misunderstand. But is it easy to see how I still walk away from them scratching my head? I'm often times left more confused than when I started. Just when I thought I was starting to "figure out" rod selection, now I'm stuck in a rut trying to find reels that aren't crap but aren't expensive (not that I would know the differences anyway). Where is the clarity? The fishing market must be absolutely killing it in profits, driven by: 1) The endless supply of vague information out there leading to confusion and resulting in misguided purchases by amateur anglers and, to some degree, 2) The more I read it's beginning to seem like some folks are closer to being "collectors" than actual fisherman - or most likely a combination of the two. What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT? You'd think that for ALL the d**n youtube channels, forums, and marketing outlets that some good soul out there would have created a simple to follow Chart or Buying Guide for which reels match best with which techniques and which types of lines etc etc etc - and most importantly: WHY. Amateurs need to be able to connect the dots in this insane market where there's 10 products for every application. How about some kind of unbiased site where a fresh-faced angler (regardless of age... young, old, or exactly 36 .. you know, whatever) inputs certain general and specific criteria related to their fishery (target species), whether they fish from boat or shore, their experience level, budget, etc etc - then it spits out various information based on known techniques for targeted species, rod/reel/line options, and, most importantly, EXPLANATIONS ABOUT WHY EXACTLY THESE POTENTIAL PURCHASES ARE GOOD AND WHAT DISTINGUISHES THEM FROM COMPARABLE PRODUCTS. I understand this thread might seem silly to some - and definitely long to everyone. I know I'll be getting responses ranging the spectrum like "just find a fishing style you like and stick with it", "don't go crazy on tackle, just enjoy fishing and forget about all the hype", "check out such-and-such thread for buying guides" (btw I feel like these lack too much info, especially for reels). When you have been in the game for a long time and have an understanding of products and their specific functions, a door is naturally opened for higher levels of debate with your peers regarding specific products - as it should be. But what does one do who doesn't have all this experience and already recognizes the rabbit hole he has begun to go down, lacking the level of comfort and clarity in purchasing decisions? I feel like at some point I can definitely be at the level where I can distinguish the nuances in products and make good decisions... There just has to be a clearer, more reasonable way for amateurs to navigate this bloated fishing market we live in now so as to not go broke or crazy in the process. I don't have thousands to spend without consequence and I would like to know I'm purchasing products that will get the job done and provide a good level of durability. Is that really too much to ask?

Excellent, thank you. That's all I need to feel comfortable to pull the trigger.