TotalNoob

Seeking the highest quality spinning rod for <$100 whose primary purpose would be to keep treble-hooked fish pinned. Looking for as much bend as possible with as much sensitivity as possible at this price point. 6'8" to 6'10". What rods have met your needs on this level historically, even if you use higher end stuff now?

I was looking for the flyer and the dates for 2020 and can't seem to find either. I believe it started Feb 15th last year so figured there would be some info out there. Does anyone happen to have any info?

Exactly the same for me. A style box like this old shimano would seem to aid with that annoying problem, if not prevent it outright. This is basically my current system, especially for the long 3 trebled jerks. This molded tray seems like a substantial step up from a time perspective.

After starting the season with the standard, bulky vest, I switched over to an A/M 24 that BPS had on sale for $79 (I believe .. or $89) vs the ~$120 regular price. Mostly I found that the active type of fishing I do (lots of casting from lots of angles, manipulating the rod tip just so) was inhibited by the bulky vest. Think jerkbait fishing with the butt of the rod against the puffy vest vs being right next to my body. It felt very restricting. To each their own though. I should note that I fish out of a 10ft "pond prowler" plastic-style boat. I wouldn't get in that thing without wearing a life vest of some type at all times and the A/M 24 seemed to fit the bill for me as a compromise. I can fish comfortably with it on and honestly I don't even notice I'm wearing it anymore.

So I was watching a youtube vid the other day and noticed a guy had his jerkbaits stored in the neatest looking box I've ever seen for jerkbaits, I knew immediately I had to find some. After some digging, it turns out the box is a discontinued Shimano storage box available only on ebay for exorbitant prices, new or used. Pics below of the box I'm talking about. I don't know if anyone here is like me but most of my jerkbaits are long slender profile, often having three trebles vs two. That 3rd treble can create some true headaches if you go stuffing multiple jerkbaits into compartments. So this discontinued Shimano box style seems to be a no-brainer style, and clearly people are willing to pay ridiculous prices for the level of organization and convenience they bring to these kinds of lures. Looking at the d**n thing I'm half-tempted to throw my hat in the ring to spend $40+ bucks for one! ... but then I know I'd need to have several and then the idea becomes absurd. So, is there truly no manufacturer on the market currently with a common sense style box like this? Follow up questions would be, how are you guys storing your jerkbaits .. especially the 3-treble jerks? Do you use hook bonnets to help prevent nightmare tangles? Have you found a particular box you like exclusively for jerkbaits?

Picked up a vision 110 (first time handling one) first thing I wanted to see was its orientation/suspension in the water. I put it in my jerkbait "test bucket" if you will and I see that it has a very strong nose-down orientation. Can anyone with experience with these confirm or deny if this is the norm with the vision 110?

I was looking for a solution to your exact problem earlier this year (March-ish), I kept getting water inside my "regular" fishing boots trying to get my little pond prowler loaded up once it was at water's edge (see pics below). Went to Dick's and found exactly what you found - I think they were on sale for 29.99 or maybe 24.99 I can't remember, doesn't matter. Decided to pull the trigger and thus far I've been very happy. I've stayed 100% dry and these aren't uncomfortable at all. I initially was taking them off inside the little boat once launched and swapping for more traditional footwear, doing the reverse on my way back to shore from fishing. But honestly as the season progressed I found I didn't mind just keeping them on unless it was too hot/sun beating relentlessly - then the plastic can get extremely hot and very uncomfortable. This also allowed me some extra space inside the little boat, not having to find a place to hide these. Pros: -Easy enough to put on and take off -I stay 100% dry -Can stand and cast in them just fine, they are plenty comfortable -Can beach my little boat in some remote little spots that aren't even accessible from shore, these make getting in and out of the boat simple, quick, and dry -Wearing cargo pants underneath, the cut of the waders around the crotch area allows very easy access into side pockets and cargo pockets, where I keep a variety of things I use throughout the trip (sunblock, small & common terminal tackle, phone, bandanas, etc) -Soles provide good traction Cons: -If it's hot outside and the sun is on full blast, these will get very hot and I wouldn't recommend wearing them the whole trip -They can be a little bulky to store inside of a small vessel after launch (don't know what you're using) As far as durability I can't say a whole lot - I've had them out probably a dozen+ times this year. I use them in a reservoir with some unforgiving terrain, often launching around shale and rock. These have withstood the harsh terrain so far, which was my main concern initially. If you're launching around soft bottom exclusively then I wouldn't even hesitate recommending them. Regardless of the brand you decide on, I 100% agree with what others said above that the hip waders are a really good option for this type of situation. Hope this helps.

I noticed you have a semi-seasonal breakdown between early Spring and Summer. Just out of curiosity (and semi-off topic), is that difference because of wind piling up warmer water in a particular area in the early Spring, thus (potentially) attracting fish to the warmer water temps?

Yea that's something I think about when trying to piece this together, junction & terminal knot compounds knot strength vulnerability. Thanks for the info WRB.

15lb invisX @ .013 Any higher diameter it seems to adversely affect the action of the 168, just in my opinion. I'm fond of fluoro because I'm not throwing these exclusively for bass or wipers. There's another freshwater species I intend to target at certain times of day/year, a typically line shy species, from shore a good bit. It doesn't seem like fluoro is a popular leader option in this category. I assume knot strength is the primary reason.

Yea, looking at that. I was able to handle a 795sb at sportsman's warehouse yesterday while traveling, I feel like it feels stiff, like a single jig hook rod. Can anyone say if the irod 7'8" jr has a softer action than the 795sb?

Yes, exactly, I'm looking for recommendations for a soft to very soft rod I can't see using 20lb line on the swaver 168 ... it's not that heavy and I want as fluid action as possible. I'm looking at using a leader with 12lb diameter (15lb strength) coming off of 30lb braid. It doesn't have to be 7'2". Really I'm looking for non-swimbait rod options. Aren't there moderate action rods out there that can throw and fold up nicely on this class of treble hook lures that isn't a swimbait rod?

Is this a good rod to run braid to leader for treble hooks lures specifically?

@Hammer 4 So are you picking up the 7'8" jr swimbait rod? Curious about the taper of this rod for 1 to 2.5oz treble hook baits. Looking for a soft rod for this application. Look forward to hearing what you think of it

I'm considering is a setup dedicated to the following types of "heavier" treble hook lures: -Smaller glides (swaver 168, shine glide 185) -WP 130 I'm looking for a rod that can appropriately handle the load of these types of lures, both in casting and very critically in that it have a very good bend/moderate taper to truly absorb the treble hook load on the other end. I'm likely going the route of braid to leader (as all my setups now are, varying in leader length) so probably looking to truly err on the softer side for the rod. Ideal length is 7'2" or shorter. I'm still very green in terms of the different brands of rods on the market and their actions/tapers etc. All but one of my current rods are BPS rods (mostly pro qualifier). I have zero cares about brands/image etc etc. I'm looking for the right tool for the job, preferably a tool that doesn't break the bank, though I would like to hear any/all suggestions and experiences. As far as the reel, I'm hoping to get the job done with a standard 100 size reel (fuego ct, braid to leader) but I'm also open to any feedback/suggestions here as well.

I posited this same question to the community back in February. Lots of good information in that thread if you're looking for more good info: Been throwing a fluke the last couple times out when they get schooled up on bait. Usage of the fluke will only increase as we get into Fall. Just thinking about the fluke makes me smile ? Edit: I'll just add that I throw them as follows: 1) Traditional rig (4/O weightless) on a 6'9" MH/XF casting (soft-ish tip for distance) with 30lb braid to a 10lb hard fluoro. That length rod also happens to be great to work it from shore or boat I've found. 2) Nose rigged w a 3/64 weight on either a 6'6" or 6'10" M/F spinning (15 or 20lb braid to a softer fluoro leader (invisx) in 12 or 10lb. Again, rod length is great for either shore or boat and the braid main to fluoro leader really aids in making the fluke dance just how you want it. @fishwizzard nailed for me in my mind when I asked about this back in Feb when he said the trick is a soft enough tip to cast/twitch with but enough backbone to set the hook. I feel the line type(s) is an important factor for this type of setup.

I have to admit I'm not very clear on some of the characteristics of treble hooks. As a base starting point, can someone clarify exactly what type of hook is stock on the WP (short shank, round bend, etc??) I'm literally just looking for identical type/size hook, just don't have need for that thick of gauge hook. My fishery is mostly Smallmouths ranging 12-17". 12-14" fish probably make up 80% of the population, 15" fish make up maybe 10-15%, and the other 5-10% might be 16s and 17s. I've heard of the occasional 17.5 or 18 being caught but it's rare. I've sort of come to accept that about this fishery and am looking to swap hooks appropriately. Is the ST-36 the exact same style hook as the stock hooks you replaced, just thinner?

Looking to replace stock Whopper Plopper trebles (sizes 110 and 130) with quality hooks but that are a little thinner diameter than the stock hooks. Will the Owner ST-36 fit the bill here? I'm also looking at the STX-38 and like what I'm seeing (thinner diameter with plenty of strength) but my concern is that they look like the hooks bend back in a little - tackle warehouse describes them as having a "deep V-bend". Not sure this is the best style for topwater. Can anyone provide any feedback on this? Additionally, looking to replace trebles on walking baits, want to make sure I'm on the right track as far the style of hook that's appropriate. I believe I want to stick with wide gap round bends, correct? I'm getting good (great!) hook up ratios on my walking topwaters as they currently are (they are Heddon Spooks), I just want to make sure I have quality hooks on everything. Any input/feedback appreciated.

That's terrific! Well, I'm planning ahead for Fall and I intend to use the 168s (in conjunction with jerkbaits) on a walleye fishery known to hold some sizeable walleyes. My hope is that the 168s help to keep the smaller fish away while simultaneously (hopefully) drawing in larger fish for at least a look. But even a big walleye doesn't need these beefy stock hooks. Their mouth skin isn't as thick as a bass and they just stay down and shake their heads when hooked, they aren't running all around the water column during the fight. I really do need to find an appropriate lighter gauge alternative treble hook for this little Fall experiment of mine. I'm open to suggestions??

@Smokinal Wanted to follow up on this thread, I am looking for lighter wire hooks for the 168 as well. Did you find the #1 ST-36 hooks to be lighter gauge and more appropriate for your needs?

Get out early early AM. I mean eeeearly. There are varying degrees of light that the sun puts out a couple hours before sunrise and even civil twilight/first light. I find targeting the Astronomical Twilight window to be the best producer, though higher quality fish still hit in early Civil Twilight for me. After that Civil Twilight window, I'll still get hits sometimes but quality of fish drops precipitously for me. Essentially, my thought process is to plan on being there and ready to cast at least a half hour (if not a full hour) before "first light"/civil twilight. Any decent weather app will tell you when that is in your area. Also, don't underestimate the power the moonlight can have. Even a small moon low on the horizon can make a big difference in helping higher quality fish find and track it.

Found a topwater Wiper walking a Heddon Spook Jr, blast of a catch. Just 19" but very healthy/girthy. I love smallmouths lb for lb but these things attack and fight with seemingly unnatural power. Let that "hybrid vigor" rain down as far as I'm concerned.

Sometimes I think I'd be lost in fishing without this site. This explains my issues with a Daiwa Regal I bought from BPS a couple months ago on a sale. I lost two big wads of seaguar invisX exactly the same way as the OP described ?. I assumed it was an issue with the particular reel so I exchanged it. I actually haven't had this issue with the replacement BUT I spooled a lot less line on it (to be on the safe side and because I thought perhaps that might have been the problem) so perhaps that's why it isn't doing it (yet)?. It does indeed lay line on the spool in a way I've never seen a spinning reel lay line. I got this reel as an "upgrade" from Pfleugar President but mostly because of the 6.2:1 gear ratio for picking up slack faster using jerkbaits. It's already been costly in terms of premium line and my time to exchange it. I can see how it might be an advantage to be able to modify the line lay for particular lines BUT how do you know which way you need to adjust until you have an issue like we had? When I spooled the reel up initially I didn't observe the line bunching on either the top or bottom nor did I observe any line trying to lay above or below the spool. If I had seen either of those things I clearly would have stopped spooling line and saved myself $$/headache/semi-ruined fishing trip. The problem only began to occur AFTER a cast. Using jerkbaits I have many pauses in my line pickup per retrieve - I'm literally never just continuously reeling. I don't understand how you're supposed to confidently spool up line on a reel like this not knowing if you'll waste a bunch of line/time/headache BEFORE having to make some type of adjustment?

It doesn't look like much. This is one of the vids on it (they're all basically the same), it's a little unnecessarily lengthy IMO but he does actually provide a fairly neat little trick toward the end for checking that both sides of the joint open up to the same angle. Do you feel like the added range of motion resulted in more followers and/or more strikes?

I've seen several youtube vids where guys take and file down the front edge of the joint on each side, the idea being this creates space to provide a wider glide. What I haven't seen is a before-and-after type vid showing the difference this modification makes. Has anyone tried this mod or can anyone speak to whether or not they found it to actually increase either their follower rates or strike/catch rates? Also interested if anyone has found any good/proven mods for the 168 that they're confident in recommending? I'm wondering if adding a feathered treble or smearing a gel-based scent might help seal the deal and convert a few followers into eaters?