fin

I've been using one for the past couple weeks and like it a lot more than my President. Very light and smooth. I got the HX which has a faster retrieve. LGLT2500D-XH 5 BB, 1RB 6.2:1 34.5”

Even once you've found the right location, you still have to find the right depth, which might require different bait. I throw a lot of different baits when I start getting desperate, or just bored. I think you give your best presentations when you only throw one thing a lot, and really get 'in-tune' with the bait. It varies a lot for me. Some days I only throw one thing, and that thing will be something I've recently had luck with. Other days I might throw 10 things, and that's usually just one rod, using speed clips where possible.

It's not the same, it's very different. The pressure is distributed across the surface of the thickness of weight (where the line touches the weight), which is much difference than the pressure being focused on one specific point. The smaller that point is, the less weight the line can hold. But it does show the line might not be defective. When it comes down to it, a different knot is your only option, unless you want to buy some new line. You'll probably never know exactly why the line is breaking. You could buy a new spool to test and compare, and then return it, but even if you learn that the new is better than the old, what good does that do you? Personally, I gave up on FC and switched to mono. Try tying a different type of knot on each end of a one foot long piece of line, tying something like a keyring on each end. Use the same thing on each end to make it a fair test. Pull each end and see which knot breaks. Repeat several times, because you might get different results depending on how you tie the knot. I've learned that tiny changes in the way you tie a knot can make all the difference. Changes that you might not even notice you're making. Knot instructions don't always cover all the fine points.

It might be interesting to test the line itself instead of the knot. Run the line through the hole in the weight and then wrap both ends around the gloved hand.

That's a nice selection of products at decent prices. Your description doesn't do it justice. My wallet is sore, but you're really tempting me.

I don't think lead can really cut line unless you're using really light line. It might damage it though, like add a kink or curl. I use Eagle Claw mostly, and have noticed the molding has gotten worse over the last couple of years. They're also using a different mold that is longer and skinnier than I like, and I've taken to filing or shaving with an Xacto knife many times. I use a small nail to reshape the hole. It's a pain for something that shouldn't have to be.

There are plenty of good reels in that price range that I wouldn't have to buy a set of drivers for. It increases the price of the reel in my case. That's what I plan to do. I like the reel so far. There was an older thread about Daiwa using soft metal screws where people were saying you need to use quality drivers. Nobody has voiced that concern in this thread, so I feel a little better about buying a cheap set. https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/211806-screwdrivers-for-reel-maintenance/

I guess it depends on your definition of 'special'. I couldn't say what percentage of mechanics have a full set (24?) of torx, but I think it's safe to say that most households don't have a set of torx. Most households do have a phillips and a flathead screwdriver. Most households don't have a set of hex keys, but more households have hex keys than torx drivers. I think we all could agree on that much.

I don't know anything about them. I think twice about visiting small unknown websites these days though. I'd hate to get hit with ransomware. Even the big web sites are getting hacked. The little guys can't really afford to spend a lot on security. If someone hacks your credit card, it's really not that big of a deal - the credit card company deals with it and you get a new card the next day (I know from experience - twice), but that ransomware is a real nightmare. Sorry to go off on a bit of a tangent, but it's something to keep in mind.

I suspect the reason for their use is to prevent customers from servicing their reels. I don't believe they are used because of their 'superior' design. The screw used on the bail arm lever is one of those common/phillips screws, where you can use either type of screwdriver. They should use the same type of screws throughout and use the same size wherever possible to reduce the amount of tools required. I guess these manufacturers think customers are going to send their reels to an authorized repair facility to have them oiled? Or do they think a reel can go a year without being serviced? I wonder what goes on in the heads of some of these decision-makers. It's special in my shop. I know they do on some at least, because I was interested in one of their reels until I noticed it had torx. Thanks. There are several sizes used on the outside, I don't know about the inside. I kind of doubt they are used inside.

I know plenty about cheap. This is a high-dollar reel to me. It replaces a reel that I had shimmed up with a piece of copper foil to keep it going - a $25 Shimano Sienna that I fished with regularly for 5 years.

I got this one from Academy, 25% off one day online flash sale a couple days ago. I've been waiting for something like that for a while.

Definitely not hex. I wish. Is that not torx?

This is my first Daiwa. I've tried Shimano and Pflueger spinning reels, so I wanted to try the other big player. Maybe I should just call Daiwa and ask them about the sizes. If they can't tell me, that will seal the deal.

My new Daiwa Legalis LGLT2500D-XH just arrived via FedEx and I was surprised to see it has torx screws. I clean and oil my reels, and have precision screwdrivers, but I don’t have a set of torx screwdrivers. Parts diagram doesn’t list sizes of screws. Does anyone know the sizes required, inside and outside? Also, I don’t want to spend $50 on a set of Wiha screwdrivers for a $55 reel. I’ve made it through most of life without ever needing a set of torx screwdrivers, and I doubt I’ll need them for anything else. I’m kind of considering returning/exchanging the reel, but if I could get by with spending a few bucks on a set I’d keep the reel. Everyone talks like anything cheaper than the best will booger the screws?

I finally got the email. It came about 7pm. I got snail email, I guess.

That reel is $79 everywhere else. If you got it for $45, that's more like 45% off. It says "Shipping Not Available" for me though, like it's sold out, but their website has never worked right for me.

How did you hear about this? I'm on their spam list and didn't get anything about it. When I saw they did a 25% off all rods last week, I assumed the reels would be going on sale, but I expected it to be the normal one week sale, not a one day sale. Thanks for the heads-up!

FYI: online only. I just called my local store and they won't match price.

It seems like Academy only restocks fishing supplies once a year. They have new products come in throughout the year, but I think they only restock in the early spring. They used to have a deal where they would ship an out of stock item to your home with no shipping charge. I don't know if they still do that. The future of local retail is bleak. People are really going to regret killing off their option to buy local.

I keep a pair of 2" needlenose in my pocket and a pair of 8" hemostats in my backpack. I walk the banks, so that is the lowest weight, smallest space option I could come up with. I can't recommend those tiny needlenose enough, they are awesome. Not easy to find though. I’m probably the only person that uses such small needlenose, but I tell ya, there’s something about them that makes them perfect. For one, when you have a fish in one hand and your rod in the other, it’s nice to be able to reach in your pocket rather than dig around for them. Longer needlenose sometimes tend to have weak pressure at the tip. These are so short, that’s not a problem. Being able to get your hand right next to the hook instead of several inches away makes a big difference too. The only thing they aren’t good for is getting down the throat on smaller fish, so that’s why I have the hemostats, but it’s very rare that I need them. 99% of the time I need pliers, it’s because I’m hooked into the tough part of the mouth, not because it’s down their throat.

Judging by the rest of the hardware, that line tie is fine. There was probably a snap swivel or something like that rusted off. That rust will come off the lip. I'd be replacing the hooks and throwing that lure.

This is off-season for me. I find most of mine in during fall/winter. I haven't found anything for a while now, I've lost more than I've found recently. What I really want to find now is a wireless sonar fish finder. That would be like finding the holy grail.

Looks like a terrible idea to me. Maybe they are trying to ruin their own lures so you'll have to buy more lures to replace them?

And never let it sink to begin with. Start retrieving before it hits the water. I think it's safe to say heavier spinnerbaits are generally less likely to roll. I guess if the blades and/or skirts are big enough, it will still roll, and if you've got a paddle trailer, who knows. It's not a simple question, there are several factors at play.