PhishLI

Dwight Hottie's amazing monsta donk could probably swallow this one, but she was a good one for me! Hooked her on a bomb cast down the bank using a spinning reel. Zoom Fluke Stick. Hit as soon as the lure dropped. Fought all the way in then wrapped around a branch for what felt like an eternity. About 20 feet down the bank and out of reach. 8 lb mono! Uhg. Was sure she was a gonna break me off, but somehow after a few jumps she freed herself and I got her in. I look stressed out because I was! I was smiling on the inside though. And once again, no scale. Sheesh. 3 pounder? ?

The tech is different. DC is an active feedback loop system that alters the magnetic force (control) in real time to preset parameters. The SV system, while it has moving parts, is passive and is calibrated mechanically. Think of it as a calibrated passive mechanical system. It's similar in some respects to a mechanical governor found in some small gasoline engines. The upside, if you're into tinkering, is that there're options available in the aftermarket to tune SV spools to your liking if you're so inclined. Personally, I stick to short range fishing with my Tatula SV. That's where it's strength lies and that's where it's best used, IMO.

If you're set on either one or the other I'd go with the BB1. I have 2 Pflueger Supreme XTs that are made in the same plant as the Lew's and share the simple and identical 6 pin centrifugal brake, metal frame, and price point. Both are quite similar. It's a trouble free caster with 2 pins on and adjustments to the spool tension when necessary. It's also a really good long caster. One of my favorites to fish with and if I were forced to choose between it and some other's I have I'd choose it. Not as smooth on the retrieve, but better to me nonetheless. That said, you should probably consider some of the newer Lew's with the P2 pinion, like the MP. There're are plenty of good and even great reels without a dual supported pinion, but there's no good reason, besides finding something else at a stupid low price, not to buy one with that if it's available. The MSB braking system on the MB worked well. The MP is it's replacement with a P2 pinion. It's worth a look. If you reel righty the Custom Black is on sale at Sportsmen's Outfitters for 119$.

First thing that came to mind when I saw her was Bubba from Forrest Gump. I was just playing with the 3 pounder remark. No scale that night, just a ruler, so I'll never know. It was a toad, so good enough for me. It's always so hard to say, so I avoid speculating and I don't when I post unweighed catches. I weighed a fat 20"er last year that clocked in at 5.63, and lasts night's 19 1/2 weighed 3 1/4, so I won't even try to guess an average weight.

No weight, but 23 1/2" on the Rapala fish ruler. 3 pounder? BOOM! Nice!

It's a good reel, and like BaitFinesse said, it's the same frame as the Tatula 150 I have one. It's just fine in my hand. Don't sweat it.

Yup. There are a bunch on sale from a particular seller. $119. I was checking them out last week. I wondered how they got a stockpile of old reels. Anyway, the SLX is quite a bit smaller.

I'm in it to win it, but at the same time I understand that just as in sports there will be losses in a season. These days I win way more than I lose, but even when the opposite was true I was cool with it. You win or you learn. Gotta keep your cool in order reflect honestly. I've always had the mindset that it's a marathon not a sprint, and always take it all in, the sounds and the silence.

Practice pitching, especially longer pitches to a target, with less brakes or spool tension than you're comfortable with. This will force a reaction from you at a pace that's different and slower than while overhead casting. An overrun is also less dramatic during pitching as everything is slowed down. You'll have more time in which to process what's happening. You'll find, rather quickly, that improvements here will translate during regular casting. All braking systems require the spool to be spinning to actuate them, or turn them on, but there are some important differences between how magnetic and centrifugal braking systems actually work. Understanding these differences may help to shortcut your learning curve which will allow you use less braking. Centrifugal braking, as found in most Shimano reels, relies on mechanical friction which is practically instantaneous. The moment the spool spins the brake arms are engaged with the braking surface. In some cases this is a brake drum or race, and in others it's a thrust plate. This is why it's generally understood that centrifugal brakes are more effective at the beginning of a cast. Magnetic brakes as employed in fishing reels are unusual in that while there are magnets present, the moving part, the spool, is not magnetic material. In other words, a magnet will not stick to your reel's spool. This system requires motion to generate a magnetic field. The faster the spool spins the greater the field, or more magnetic force. This is a simplified explanation for the purposes of this exercise. Looking up "Eddy current braking" will further your understanding here. The bottom line is this: Unlike centrifugal brakes, as found in Shimano reels and others, that "turn on" fast, magnetic brakes "turn on" slower. This is especially true when the spool is farther away from the magnets. The dial on your Daiwas moves the magnets either closer or farther away from the spool's inductor ring. The deeper the inductor ring is inserted into the magnetic gap the more magnetic force is present, but only when the spool begins spinning, and increases with spool speed. But, there's a slight "lag" before force is applied. There's very little magnetic force "present" at the beginning of the cast. It ramps up with increased spool revolutions. This is why an instantaneous backlash is likely if you whip a cast with a Daiwa reel. There are essentially no brakes "on" for a split second. The upside here here is that a harder cast is not necessary, and is actually counterproductive. Understand that you can cast hard with a Daiwa reel, but, there are subtleties involved in unloading the rod as you launch the lure. Any jerkiness during that process can result in a quick backlash or a mid cast fluff up just before the apex of the cast. Mono is more forgiving in this scenario and may self correct, or sort itself out. Braid will usually just wrap around the spool resulting in a backlash. This is why people describe a "lob' or a "sweep" cast when explaining transitioning from a spinning reel to a baitcaster, especially one with mag brakes. You'll have to learn what this feels like while your thumb control increases. As you get better at feeling the rod load then unload during launch without jerkiness or a bounce, you'll be able to go farther down on the dial which will increase your casting distance without incident. You'll also find out that not much thumbing, if at all, is required in the middle of the cast where the mag brakes are most effective, just slightly in the beginning on power casts. If fluffing does occur midcast your thumb will kick in automatically. However, a minor adjustment of the brake dial or a slight dash of spool tension should tame those without sacrificing much distance at all.

They're both centrifugal, but their braking mechanisms are constructed quite differently, therefore sound different.

X2

NV1204, Just throwing this out there. No reel at the $200 price point blows any of the others at the same price point out of the water. You won't experience a revelation choosing one over the other. If you tried them all you most certainly would rank them and end up with a preference. $400 reels don't blow $200 reels out of the water either. There are subtle differences, and those differences have value, but do not translate into anything earth shaking during a day of fishing. Companies across the board put out a pretty solid product in the $200 zone these days. Choose what you want.

It's probably normal. Mine doesn't sound like my white block Shimano SVS reels, or as zippy as the early gen SVS Infinity with the red blocks. Definitely different. My new Quantum Tour sounds way different than both. Sort of DC-ish sounding actually. My LFS's sound changed slightly as the blocks wore in. Still casts really great. They all employ one version or another of plastic tabs/blocks rubbing against metal, so it'll sound one way or the other. None are as quiet as a mag brake. As long as it doesn't sound like chuffing or chatter it's probably just fine.

You might be surprised by how many people with Shimanos have never oiled their brakes or would even have the first clue where to oil them. I'm not saying that's the case with the original poster, but the fact that he mentioned Daiwa in the same breath as Shimano regarding braking sounds...well.

Probably not. Probably just an opportunistic play against carbon emissions.

Update The winds in New York today were at times relentless. I'm quite close to the ocean, so they were really heavy. Where I stopped to fish it was blowing 18-22mph with much heavier gusts. I tied on an unweighted 5" Strike King Caffeine Shad, cranked up the brake dial to max, then casted hard into the wind. No problem, and I got decent distance. I was able to go several clicks lower, which gave me increased distance, without issue. I didn't need to undo an over run once. I'll admit that I haven't felt the need to try something this extreme with my other centrifugally braked reels because I've had enough blowups with them midcast in far lesser winds. Previously I'd only attempted this in a situation as described when I had the Tatula SV rigged up. I didn't explore every option regarding baits in the short time I had, just a 3/8 oz willowblade spinner. No issues with that either, and I started at the lower brake setting I'd used with the Caffeine Shad. I leave out my boring technical analysis based on the observable mechanical details of this braking system, but just say that it seems to work very well in other than ideal conditions with a limited sample of moderately light baits. While this tidbit might not be worthy of a marching band, it's encouraging, and another plus added to the positive column for this under the radar reel.

Friction brakes (centrifugal) from different manufacturers make different sounds. They all benefit from periodic oiling. That period may be once a month or less depending upon use. Once you've oiled the brakes and use your reel you'll tune into when oiling is required. A bottle of oil came with your reel. Remove the side plate. Put 1 small drop of oil on the brass ring shown in the pic. Using a q-tip spread it out on the surface. Using the clean side of the q-tip proceed to wipe it clean. A small amount will remain and that's all that's necessary. If you hear the sound begin to change greatly then repeat. It's not a cause to panic though and doesn't require you stop fishing immediately. If you fish in the rain and the reel gets soaked you may need to repeat the process a bit earlier.

Managed to get in a few swings yesterday morning before hurricane winds and sideways rain drove me out. Only landed a few squeakers on this outing, but this little dude made my day. You've gotta admire the ambition.

The beard absorbs the corona then kills it instantly.

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This.

Hey now, those are some very very manly Grease Monkey Gorilla Grip 6 mil gloves, not some girly gloves! My left thumb split from the cold last winter, which is a special type of never ending hell, so...Picking off weeds and algae, and I hold fish in the water to make sure they're right before I release them, so hands get wet and freeze. Those very very manly gloves allow me to take the pain a just a little longer at night when temps are in the 30s with wind, Mr. Smarty Pants.?

Chunks! Congrats!

Here's a quick update on my new Tour S3 I finally got to fish today during daylight hours, which is rare. Since all of my outings up until today have been at night, I was chicken to test the lower limits of this reel. It's a bit of an effort to suit up in waders then trudge to the spots I like. Sorting out backlashes, or overuns, in the dark is unappealing. It's not the time for experimentation. Until today I've played it safe by primarily throwing 3/8oz chatterbaits with light trailers and The Champ Swimmer on an Owner 3/32oz weighted hook which both clock in at 5/8 oz, or 18 grams, and similarly weighted baits. The lightest bait I've thrown is the IMA Bill Lowen squarebill that weighs 3/8oz, and is something any reel can throw. The Tour is mounted on 13 Omen Black ll 7'1" MF and spooled with 15lb Trilene Big Game liberally splooshed with KVD L&L. It's not the ideal line for throwing very light stuff, but I was feeling brave having caught a few already and was about ready to wrap it up anyway. The lightest bait I had on hand was a No.3 Mepps that I'd just rescued from a tree branch down the shoreline and well out of reach of the poor soul who lost it whenever. They clock in at about 6 grams, or just a shad heavier than 3/16 oz. It's aerodynamic, but still rather light. I wasn't optimistic, but Big Game is cheap. I cranked up the brakes, added a dash of spool tension, then began to cast. Each click towards "Free" on the dial the father the lure would fly. By the time I got to the redline I was launching that spinner way out there. Pretty impressive for a deep spool reel loaded with heavy, wirey line. I'm curious to see how it'll do with lighter baits while spooled with a far smoother line like Sufix Advance having a diameter of .011"-.012". So the positives keep stacking up with this reel. It's very smooth on the retrieve. It's a supreme long caster with the baits I've tried. Very comfy to palm, and solid feeling. And here's a bonus: You can lay into a cast as you would with a spinning rod/reel. I'm often casting hard for distance, and make adjustments in my stroke for particular reels I have. This is a must when running zero spool tension and the lowest brake settings. Somehow I can get around this a bit with this reel. I can really lay into and whip the cast when settings are near the redline. Perhaps this accounts for the longer distances I'm getting. So far so good.

LOL! It's called a Tactical Angler Clip. https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/tactical-anglers-power-clips-25-pack-16ta2utctnglrpwrcter/16ta2utctnglrpwrcter