K1500

In addition to gear ratio and IPT, what no one has mentioned yet is the effect handle diameter has. Although changing handle diameter doesn’t change the stated ‘gear ratio’ or IPT, it changes how far you have to move to bring in a set amount of line. Functionally, the handle is the final gear in the system. Doubling the handle diameter doubles the distance your hand moves for a revolution. This is very similar to gearing down the reel by half. That being said, I think most low profile reels a that folks use for bass are fairly similar in spool diameter and handle diameter, which means comparing gear ratios is equivalent to comparing IPT.

I have an HDS live 7” and you can find fish just fine. Lots of the big screen sonar units people run split screen, which amounts to having 2-4 smaller screens. You may have to toggle between screens as opposed to running split screens, but you should be able to see the fish.

I use that line and tie a uni.

I like the self-inflatable butt pads they sell for hunting. They look like a mini Thermarest and they are nice because you can vary the inflation level to vary the feel. Over the course of the day you may add or subtract a bit of air to shift the ‘hot spots’ around. I have also used the bleacher seats and they work well. They do shift my center of gravity up just enough that it is noticeable. I am a big guy in a kayak that is nearly maxed out, so that may be part of it.

Your bilge discharge is below the waterline?

I don’t think you will be running your batteries in series or parallel. You need one for the TM and one for the electronics. If you run them in parallel, you will still have the possibility of interference issues. You only need two of the same age and capacity batteries of you are connecting them. If they are isolated from one another, age and capacity doesn’t matter. You can probably get by with a smaller and cheaper battery for electronics. As was already mentioned, on a bass boat the same battery runs the bilge, electronics, and starts the main motor.

I’ve had great service out of Yo-Zuri hybrid 12 pound on my baitcasters.

I figured, but I see references to folks switching mid-fish, which sounds like they aren’t also readjusting their drag, but perhaps they are.

You back reel guys realize the drag still works with the AR turned off, right? Unless you tighten the drag to lock it down more than you normally would. I don’t see how you can apply *more* pressure to a fish you are fighting on the drag by flipping the AR off. You can apply *less* force, by back reeling before the drag slips. I just set the drag where I want it and trust it. If you want more force, palm the spool as the drag slips (if you dare).

I have a handheld just in case I ever need it, but I fish inland lakes so I haven’t used it yet. I also bought it to be able to lock through on big rivers. Although any radio is better than no radio, if I was relying on it as a safety device I would want a hardwired unit with a good fixed antenna.

Although I don’t own them, I have heard good things about the cheaper Simms waders. They will likely be my next pair.

I’ve had 3 of those reels (2 plus a warranty replacement) and wasn’t too impressed with any of them. Perhaps I need to mess with the braking system on them more, but I never could get the distance out of them that I could with any other reels.

this.

I’ve got a trolling motor with anchor mode and no power poles/talons. I agree that for the fishing I do, anchor mode is sufficient. I can see how talons would be nice, but they are heavy and get in the way of a back seat angler, not to mention they are expensive.

Make sure your line roller on your bail is lubricated and spinning well. I’ve used yo-zuri 10# on 2500 sized reels no problem.

Glenn, you have had some bad fortune with your trailer lately. It is always good practice to to some PMCS on your gear. You probably trailer a lot more than most, but corrosion doesn’t really care about miles. I have an aluminum I beam based trailer, so I worry less about corrosion and more about fatigue. It is always good to post this, as lots of folks really neglect to look at their trailer. While we are at it, check your tires for age, pressure, and wear, and service your bearings.

I think it would be wise. The upcharge is pretty small and you get twice the power on high and twice the life at a given thrust. Don’t forget that you will need another battery and a three bank charger in the upgrade as well.

No need for more than a 24V trolling motor on that boat. I have a Lowe 20’ aluminum bay boat and get multiple days out of my Motorguide Xi5 24V. Be sure to get a motor with spot lock/anchor mode. And think about electronics, as it’s easier to do it right the first time. Also, just make sure the rated capacity of the boat is high enough for your use. I don’t know what the passenger weight capacity of that boat is, but I’m guessing you won’t really fit a family of four on it and be within the limit. most folks just fish 1 or 2 in a boat. I’m just throwing it out there in case you have visions of taking out a 4-5 person family. It looks like a nice boat.

I’m guessing you will love them. The 580g in blue mirror are great, and at that price you did good.

Those look like just what the OP needs.

Before I sunk a temporary and likely illegal mooring, I would just trailer it. Even moored you would be worried about it. We stay on a lake where I can rent a slip for $17 per day, but it would take longer to get from the campsite to the slip than it would to just launch the boat.

I chose the blue mirror on purpose. I don’t think it makes a huge difference relative to the other ‘dark’ colors.

Saltwater folks have this figured out. I would use some good fenders and make sure it is tied up properly. I don’t sweat a few rub marks on the boat rub rails, but everyone is different. One of the best thing about staying somewhere with a dock is just jumping on the boat and going. The video below is a bit long winded but the instructions are good. Tying up

Great post! I am detail oriented when it comes to trailer maintenance and I could see how this may slip by some folks. One other thing mentioned in the video relating to tires. If you intend to tow faster than 65, you need to check your trailer tires. The vast majority of ST tires are only rated to 65. There are a few (the Goodyear Endurance is one, Goodyear Marathon is not) that are rated faster. This is important if you want to tow faster than 65. Also, it isn’t the best idea to use car tires on trailers. Stick with a good ST rated tire and replace it every 4 years and your tire troubles should be minimal. When a tire lets go it can be dangerous and cause lots of damage to your trailer and possibly to your boat as well. Frequent inflation, wear, and age checks as well as obeying the speed rating will help minimize tire problems.

Most strippers are at least 100 pounds....