Jig Man

I can't see how that would be quieter passing through the guides on my rods.

Thanks. I'll give it a try. I have used uni to uni, Ablright and Stren knots and don't really like any of them. I take it that glue isn't necessary.

I am getting tired of hearing the knot go through the guides when I use a fluro leader on my braid. I really don't want to spend all day tying and measuring different knots. Can anyone tell me the smallest knot which will hold the two of them together.

I hope I understand the question. I assume that you mean that the jig head after being painted isn't nice and shiny. If that is what you mean then, yes, you don't have it hot enough. If, however, you are talking about the jig head before painting, it doesn't matter. Surely you are talking about fluffing up the powder. I shake the bottle a few times before I open it and it works most of the time.

I hate to hear about your problems. I have just the opposite feelings about the flatfoot which I have on my deck. It makes standing or sitting a lot more comfortable and is a lot easier on my knees and back since I am standing line a person instead of a dog taking a leek. I have had it for 2 years and wish I had done it a long time before that.

I go about half and half on trailers. I like a double curly tail or a single tail 5" grub when I am using trailers on spinnerbaits. However, if by trailers you mean chunks, I don't use them on spinnerbaits. For me, it makes a difference an night. I get more bites with than without a trailer.

Be sure to use that little inline fuse.

I'm not sure that you can get answers without motor specifications. If they all had the same amp draw then the 100 lb would only be running at 1/2 power and would draw a lot less amps than the 50 at full power. The 75 would fit somewhere in between. It also depends on whether the units are the same volt systems as 12v draws the most amps. You have to know the motor's amp draw and the battery's reserve amp capacity before you can estimate the length of running time. For example, if you had a tmotor that draws say 30 amps at full speed and a battery with 150 reserve amps it should run close to 5 hours on high. As you use slower speeds you use less amps. That tmotor may only use 10 amps on low and you battery might last 15 hours. I think I am confused now. ;D

Go to www.tackleunderground.com do some searches and read what those guys have to say. You will find some very good stuff and lots of options from which to choose. Good luck and good pouring.

The first thing I would do is loosen the bolts and drop the td as low as it will go and try it. Before you go drilling a bunch of new holes, you might want to find out how the transducer board works on a Lund. You mount the td to the board and never have holes below the water line. That would give you some margin for error and potential movement trying to find the perfect place. Very few alums have smooth enough water flow to read much past 30 mph when the water is calm.

Personally, I'd go for a 480X480 pixel unit. Right now I am saving my pennies for one myself.

You might try going to the mfg and see what they have to say. http://www.trackerboatcenter.com/contact_tracker_boat_center.asp?formtype=10&bvdid=5881& I wanted to modify a Ranger once and they sold me everything I needed and let me hang around the factory to see how it should be done.

I use short arm for my single spins but I use the long arm for tandems. Personal preference thingy.

Ztackle, Stamina Inc, and Barlows are component sources also.

I recommend that you pick a few proven baits (like plastics and jigs). What you get will depend on your rods and reels. Take the time to fish them and learn how to use them to catch fish. Don't get caught up in all the bait buying hype that is out there. As you learn a few and you confidence and catching improves, there will be time to buy all the extraneous stuff that the rest of us haul around with us.

One drop of oil on each bearing. Grease on the gears.

I use 3 different rods for three different spinnerbaits weights; MH 6.5' fast, MH 7.0' fast, H 7.0' fast. I don't even own a medium action rod any longer. I gave the last one away cause it felt like a wet noodle.

I have one in my rod closet. I sometimes use it with Zara Spooks but not often.

By looking at NADA I would say the boat was a couple of grand over priced unless it was a cream puff and most 12 yr old boats won't be.

I had a hand control for a while and learned to really hate that beast. I think I would go back to golf before I had another hand controlled one. I fished this last winter with a guy who had a hand controlled, he spent as much time diddling around with it as he did fishing. I am not very opionated either.

I'd still take it. I am running an X125 on the bow because of the amber back light. It is great for night fishing. A friend has the X135 and ******* about the light at night.

For that price, I'd grab the X135 and make a run for the door.

This is what the rod tip end looks like. The other end you fashion to suit what ever your needs are.

I tried the jig selling business for a few years. It got to be a drag so I increased my order size to 50 dozen to get rid of the bothersome (I want 6 of this and 3 of that and oh yes how about 2 in that size). It got down to a few good customers who would make the plunge. It wasn't bad after that until I got tired of deadlines and quit selling all together.

They don't go in but a few inches as you cut the tubes off to maybe a foot. I use them all the time for spinning rods up to 7' long with no problems what so ever.