Jig Man

If it were mine, I wouldn't want the hassel of draining the lube each time. If you fish very much, your oil would cost more than a fix in a short time. I would take it to a repair shop and have the problem fixed right and be done with it.

My worn out knees have forced me to sit most of the day. I can only stand for a couple of hours at a time. I have learned to hold the rods differently when sitting to get a good hook set. I still think I miss more seated but the other alternative is to watch tv. ;D

If you had popped a few caps in their direction, they might have had a different outlook on life. ;D

totally *** backwards. fill from the bottom. Really..... yea did not read the post IF YOU DONT HAVE A PUMP. all the top hole is to vent while you pump from the bottom and to show it full after the oil drains out. But being the pro you are i am sure you knew that too. So in other words there is more way to skin a cat. Think before you post back some rude commit because if you dont you just my get schooled on how to turn some wrenches. I never claimed to be a wrench turner. I was a sales manager for a marine dealership and wrench turners worked for me. However, I have seen and done many many lower unit lube changes. I have done them with and without a pump. It is somewhat easier with the $7 pump.

For non electric I prefer the wood handled Rapala. Mine is over 20 years old. However, my favorite kinfe is a cordless electric which I got for Christmas 3 years ago. It is about as good as the Rapala and a whole lot faster.

Rubber

I don't think I have ever had the two the same color except for black/black. My rubber is not the same color of any trailers I can buy. Here are a couple of my favorites.

That may be true but it has to have some hardware which is not present.

I had some of that with Fireline. I got rid of it and went to Power Pro. I have it on 6 reels and have had very few problems.

We threw spinnerbaits, worms, jigs and tubes today. We caught 1 smallmouth on a jig/beaver and 17 on tubes. We were using 4" tubes with 1/8 and 1/4 oz heads. The tube color didn't matter.

It takes around a 20% profit to keep a dealership's doors open. The best time to buy a boat is in the dog days of summer. Customers are scarce then and boat deals are easier. Never buy one close to boat show time. The best deals can be made on NEW NONCURRENT units. They have been setting around while the interest payments keep on rolling. Many of them can be purchased at or below cost. When dealing for the boat it is good to keep an option you want secret; like a depthfinder or trolling motor upgrade. When the deal is as good as you can get it, spring the option on them as a deal breaker. If it is not outrageous, you will probably get it thrown in.

Champion, Bass Cat, or Ranger in that order

So does Stacy King, but those guys get them for free. I'd fish from a Nitro if they were free and I didn't have to eat the depreciation.

Working with fiberglass on the inside of stuff is basically a nobrainer. If you have room and a dremel tool, you should be able to cut away the old fiberglass and take the remaining wood out and redo the whole thing with new resin. You might be able to get a piece of aluminum or stainless to replace the wood.

I haven't checked the NADA guides lately but Nitro used to be the fastest depreciating boat on the market.

If you plan to fish big or windy water then go fiberglass. I have been in all kinds of alums. of sizes to over 20'. Some of them ride like glass boats when it isn't windy. When it is windy they beat your guts out. They are also hard to control when fishing in the wind. I have had some of both and don't plan to leave the glass world again for many years.

I run and gun after I find some type pattern. I start out in a good area hitting points, pockets, etc. When I find fish on a couple of like places, I start moving around to other places like them. I won't run over 15 or 20 miles to a new spot though.

This seems to be the slowest site on the net. Is it just me????

totally *** backwards. fill from the bottom.

I use a modified San Diego Jam for all types of lines including fluro.

I am not drilling holes in a $12000 motor. I am willing to try it out for the neighbor if I can find the proper connectors. I don't need a hole shot. Just helping out the guy next door, maybe.

There is a top screw and a bottom screw. Take the bottom one out first then the top one and let it drain into a container. It takes a small amount to refill it. Buy you a bottle of your oil and a pump. Screw the pump into the bottom hole and pump it till it comes out the top. Replace the top screw unhook the pump and replace the bottom screw. Wipe it down and you are done. You should do this at least twice a year. You should change your impellor every 3 years.

Yes they do!! I keep hearing that so I called 3 Wal-Mart Super Centers in 3 different towns. 1 of them had no deep cycle batteries at all and the other 2 had one choice each, a 160 reserve amp 27 series. That is not really a very big reserve battery IMO.

The guy next door has one he wants me to try out. It has no documentation and no mounting hardware. I wouldn't mind trying it out but don't see how I can keep it on my motor. Anyone got a clue??

The key thing to remember is reserve amps not cranking amps. Get a deep cycle of 185-200 reserve amps and you should be fine. I have used several brands and have very few complaints.