Mr.C in Texas

I'm born and raised in Salem so I'm very familiar with the fisheries. My advise is to keep it simple, quality over quanity and don't buy anything unless you know why you need it. Once you fish more you will understand when you need something more sensitive, reliable, stronger ect. More expensive gear can make the experience more enjoyable.

I’m using the Shimano SLX XT and I always have tension on the line when spooling. This problem is still there after a half day of fishing. I would think the natural tension of running chatterbaits and spinnerbaits would help work in the line.

I came in the black box and I fished with it for half a day.

Thanks for the input. I thought the Tatsu would be an upgrade. Seems like everyone likes it except for the price. It acts like it still has memory from the factory spool. I had to set the brakes hard to avoid "poofing" in the spool and the line had large line coils the size of the factory spool. It does not feel soft to the touch like Sniper. Could I have a bad role? Maybe line conditioner will solve this over time?

Hello all, I just bought my first spool of 15lb. Tatsu and it seems much stiffer and has more memory than the Sniper 14lb. I’m used to. I fished it for a couple hours and even tied my line to a pole and walked out until I emptied my reel and gave it a good long stretch. Is this normal. I could try line and lure conditioner but would I have to apply it the day before each time I fish?

I'm also an shore fisherman. I wade fish so I usually only have one rod but sometimes use a second. I'm using the custom inshore spinning setup for 1/8 to 1/2 (paddle tails) and a 703 for lures 1/2 to 3/4 (popping corks/Carolina rigs/Corky). I just ordered the 734 because I needed a little more backbone and I didn't want to bring the 735.

I spend a lot of time pond hopping. Every pond is a little different in approach and presentation. You need to know how to physically approach and move around a pond without spooking the fish with your footsteps and color of clothes do make a difference. Large or noisy presentations can spook and entire pond or activate feeding....just depends. I was out pounding ponds this morning and had a lot of success starting out with a subtle presentation (dark sleeper, Ned rig, Senko). Then I moved to frogging for topwater and chatterbait/spinnerbait for mid column presentations.

I use the Champion 703 XP for most of what your wanting to throw. I would recommend a 4 power for over 1/2 oz.

Also take a look at the SLX XT upgrade for a couple bucks more. It’s definitely worth it for its external breaking control, better brakes, extra bearing, nicer finnish and doesn’t have the huge SLX logo.

Dobyns 734 would be a great choice or a 703 if you want to go lighter. I use a custom ml spinning for finesse, 703 mid weight/bladed and 735 for frogs/jigs. I kayak, bank and inshore wade fish so I don’t want to cart around a bunch of rods.

I mostly kayak, bank or inshore wade. I sold off a bunch of rods I either I didn’t like or use often. I like to travel light and narrowed it down to 3 rods for now. A custom wading ml spinning rod with a stradic ci4+ (weighs 10.4 oz.) for neds/ds/paddle tails/finesse up to 1/2 oz. A Dobyns Champion 703C XP for mid column presentations and finesse jigs. A Dobyns Champion 735C XP for jigs and frogs. I use braid on all three and switch out the leader depending on the presentation and conditions. I do have to tie a lot of knots when I fish but I’m at a point I’d rather fish with equipment I like.

FC leader is typically larger in diameter, stiffer and more abrasion resistant. I use braid on all my spinning/casting/surf setups and change the FC or mono leader based in the situation. I have not had an issue with my connection knot being the failure spot (FG or Albright). Due to lack of abrasion resistance, there is no way I would fish straight braid over oysters/shells/rocks. Muddy water with a soft bottom and sticks I fish braid only. There is good data showing FC main line and mono almost have the same amount of stretch. It depends on the brand and line diameter. There is also some compelling info showing FC may not be more abrasion resistant.

I actually use a custom ml+ rod. It’s an inshore rod with a softer tip and a stout backbone for larger 10-20lb. fish. It’s meant to toss 1/8 to 1/2 oz. weights. I just watched a YouTube video and a guy had both the ml and medium zodias ( I’m looking at buying one) and he said the ml was a little to “wippy” and didn’t have much of a backbone. He loved the medium. As for the reel, 3000 size are more friendly to use than the smaller sizes. The ci4+ 2500 and 3000 are the same reel but different spools.

I’m on my 4th season with 30lb. 832 and wouldn’t go back. No backlash issues plus I can chose what kind of leader or not to use depending on the presentation/conditions.

3000 series, 10 lb. braid, 8 lb. invisx on the medium 7’ zodias. Killer Ned setup.

I’m keeping it simple this year. I sold a bunch of setups I don’t use. I mostly inshore wade/kayak or bank/kayak for bass. I travel as light as possible. Spinning -Custom Laguna inshore wade fishing 6’10 ML paired with a Stradic 3000 ci4+ (doubles as freshwater fineness) -Penn Battle II 7’ MH paired with Battle II 2500 (collecting dust) Casting -Dobyns Champion XP 703 paired with a Shimano SLX XT -Dobyns Champion XP 735 paired with another Shimano SLX XT

I have the champion xp in a 703 and 735 so I'm not opposed.

I'm open to other rod ideas. It seems like the Expride is the hot option right now but no one carries it in the Houston area. I'd like to keep in the $250-$300 range.

Hi, I'm not sure which rod to get for Ned rigs, weightless senkos, and drop shot. I'll be using my CI4+3000 so I'm also looking for balance. Currently I'm using my inshore custom med. light mag/mod fast. I prefer a rod with a softer tip to help load light baits but something with a good backbone. It would be nice if I could use it for 3/4oz. corky lures but I know that is a lot to ask. I'm thinking about the medium, medium light or light plus.

Unfortunately no one caries the Expride around me so I'm basing my thoughts off all the positive reviews. I just bought a champion 703 xp and a 735 xp. I like the 703xp but it's not super sensitive for bottom contact and the weight just feels off. I mostly wade, kayak or bank fish for bass and inshore. I only want to take 1-3 quality rods with me depending on what I'm going for. I love my custom inshore ML Mag with a Stradic CI4+ (combo only weighs 10.4 oz.)-great for almost everything up to 1/2 ounce. I've been impressed with the 735 for light frogging and punching (I don't fish in that nasty of stuff). So I'm looking for something in the middle for an all around rod. I also prefer something with more of a soft tip, shorter, light, and sensitive. I would like to error on a lighter rod and play the fish instead of waterskiing it in :). Is the upgrade noticeable and what rod would you recommend? I'm open to other ideas for rods in the $250-$300 price range.

And I had to go back for a second one yesterday. Unfortunately I bought there last two. Ended up with a 703 and 735.

6.48 lb. on a 3/8 fineness football head with a beaver style trailer slow crawlin....

Bought a Dobyns champion new for $139.

I own the champion 703 and this rod is incredibly versatile. I would say it’s like a mag medium with a soft tip. I’ve thrown Ned rigs up to 3/8 jigs with larger trailers-killer sensitivity. I took it out today to test different top waters (Spook/walking) vs my medium mod. Walking was easier with the 703 and added 15 plus yards on the cast. I’m going to try the 705 cb for cranks/chatter/top water. I have another medium xf but I’m not sure what to use it for besides jerk/twitch baits. For most 1/4, Ned, ds and spook jr. I prefer my custom mlf inshore rod. It’s a different taper with a Killer backbone but has a mod fast feel with soft tip.

I lost a ton of zman nedheads. I switched to lifted jig heads and rarely lose one. It’s a sweet ewg style...no hook to snag.