TigerBassAU

I have seen the same Loomis rods vary in weight as much as 5% in the same series. A good starting point would be that the GCX will weight 15-25% more than the same rod in an NRX. 15-20% for rods shorter than 7 foot and 20-25% for rods 7' and longer. I have/had some old E6x rods that the GCX replaced and found this to be true. You can find a lot of NRX weights by model # online to get a reference weight to start at. Tackle Tour has 19 pages of rod weights in their rod forum with NRX/Conquest weights. For example, my Gen 1 894 E6X weights 5.19 oz. Most NRX 894 are listed as 4.3 - 4.4oz.

853 matches your request but another more diverse option is the 843 mbr.

The 844 has a softer tip and deeper flex making it suitable for anything in its weight range. Some like it better for 1/2 oz football jigs due to it's loading ability vs JWR. I would say power wise the 844 and 854 are very similar. Spec wise the 844 weights more but balances better due to the full cork grip which is also slightly longer than split grip length of JWR. The 873 NRX is another popular option if you like something a little longer and more powerful than the 854 but not 894 power.

854 is a 3/8-1/2 jig rod. Great for skipping, big worms in cover, etc. 894 is a more powerful 1/2-3/4 jig rod. Great for pitching heavy cover, 5-6 inch plastic swimbaits, and even light A rigs. Very different rods although lure ratings are the same. If I wanted something a little more powerful than 853 with 3/8 jigs I would go 854. Most like 894 better with 853 as the 2 rods covers most jigs within 1/4-3/4 oz range.

I have both the Orochi Braillist and the E6X 894. The 894 is lighter weight and more powerful. Both would work but Braillist is better in open water/light cover up to 1/2 oz jig. 894 for 1/2 - 3/4 jigs and/or around cover. Of the 2, I would choose the Braillist based on your OP.

Standard Elite Mod Fast rod. Mileage will vary as to what people like for a chatterbait rod but the MH is plenty for me in most conditions. I will use braid when I feel I need more power, faster hook sets, or better lure control.

Hammer rods 7'3" MH. Amazing moving bait rod. Fishes more like a medium+. Very light weight (less than 4 oz), and USA made. Comes in either the elite or Jak series (same blank). Bonus: it will also sling a 6xd in a pinch.

Guide: Lonnie Cochran is great. Hotels: Scottsboro: Comfort Inn or Guntersville: Hampton Inn are boat friendly with parking/charging. Cabins: Jackson County Park or Waterfront Bay. A lot of fishing cabins are now available on Vrbo or airbnb. I would recommend staying around scottsboro or goosepond area just to be more centered around the lakes most popular fishing areas.

At the console, SI without a doubt but it would be a sad day if I did not have both!

Pro: It is the jack of all trades rod for lures in its weight range. Con: it is not the best rod for every technique it can do. IMO it is a great single hook moving bait rod but also a good treble or bottom contact rod. It can do it all unlike most rods made just for bottom contact or moving treble baits.

894 is a great 1/2 - 3/4 jig rid for dragging, pitching, and heavy cover but you said you already had a rod for that and it is not what I would want for skipping. If you want the loomis 1/2 jig skipping rod get the 854. If you want a multipurpose rod get the 844. If you can handle longer rods for skipping try the NRX 873 as a compromise between the 854 and 894. I find the stiffer tipped jwr are much more accurate than the mbr when casting with the correct weight for the rod. Casting accuracy is key for me when skipping a jig!

If you are linking 2 units and i-pilot link you will need the an ethernet switch when adding a third ethernet item (i-pilot link) to the network. Each item will also need its own ethernet cord to the switch. Once the i-pilot link is networked, you can choose the ultrex gps for the the helix units or use their built in gps. I would use the ultrex gps for the bow unit since it has a directional compass and is at the bow transducer for best accuracy. Your console unit would be more accurate if you had a separate gps puck near the transom transducer. If no transom gps, I would use the console's internal gps before using the ultrex gps for better accuracy. Your previous waypoints will be based on the unit you created it with. If you were using the console unit, any waypoint created with sonar data will be off by the distance from the transducer and gps device.

854jwr. It is also a fast action but tip is not as soft as 844mbr. IMO makes a better skipping rod but either would work. 844 is the better all purpose rod. 854 for 3/8 - 1/2 jig and big worm rod for me.

I think the key current change is you having to register the rod within 30 days of purchase. As it currently reads your "registered" product has warranty and qualifies for the Xpeditor service. Now I have heard only one rod replacement is coming. If you are grandfathered in, your new rod will be registered and not qualify for replacement. Again, this what I have heard and can not say it is fact. I have not registered a rod since the change so I am unaware if your name will be linked with the process. If so I would think the Xpeditor may one day be tied with the original owner too? But in their defense, with the covid supply issues, I am sure the replacements are killing what inventory they have and bottom line something has to change. They have been increasing prices for years on both cost and replacement fees so I would assume to stay "as is" would require a hefty price increase. Option 2 would be to reduce costs by changing replacement/warranty policies. In the end it may a be a combo of both. Since they now put serial numbers on the rods, it is in my opinion option 2 is only starting and more like stated above will be coming later. It would be in their best interest to slowly make the changes to prevent sudden backlash! I know a lot of folks are already mad due to the current replacement waits. Some have been waiting for more than 1/2 a year.

Yes it can be updated to use it, but you must have Lakemaster HD lakes to follow contours, etc. Also will need 5 port ethernet switch if your 1198 unit will be linked with another unit and a total of 3 ethernet cords to connect both units and i-pilot link to 5 port switch! Depending in the second unit, may need a dongle for the ethernet cable also. Humminbird list.

Gen 3 has faster processer and will receive updates longer. Some things may come out later like bluetooth and other options but in a nutshell that is the major differences. Both gen 2 and 3 solix units will do all things mega!

Advice: if you are financing the entire deal then getting everything installed by manufacture/dealer is probably a must but you can save a lot of money by taking a different rout. My must have list: SI at the console with a linked unit at the bow of the same brand (waypoint sharing) with a minimum 2d sonar and lake mapping. Trolling motor with spot lock that will meet my fishing needs. A good onboard battery charger! My biggest regret: powerpoles. They are nice but I could live without them. My best advice would be figure out where you hope to be one day, what budget you have, and buy things that will get you there instead of having to replace what you have later. Humminbird has lake master maps of my lakes, only one that has 360, and will soon have mega live to compete with Garmin. If you want more than just the basics they are the best way to go presently. The larger sized units makes seeing thing much easier. I run 12 inch on console and 9 at bow. When I upgrade to to 360 I will want a 12 inch unit for it! But you could get by with only 9 inch units if you had too!

What features do you want? SI, DI, maps, networking units to share waypoints, etc? If all things are equal humminbird has the lakemaster maps advantage along with using navionics also. I chose humminbird because most of my lakes were available and in HD. Just make sure the units you get can do what you need and want! They make various models in 5 and 7 inch and they are not all the same. Then you can apples to apples and make the best choice for you!

You can buy the sonar cable adaptor to use 2d sonar from minn kota to garmin unit. Make sure you get the correct one with correct pins for your garmin. I assume you are referring to using the touch screen remote for the minn kota, then yes it will control all independent (non-link) commands for the trolling motor (spot lock, jog, etc).

My 2 high end rods to meet your needs would be both casting rods. Although I may have concerns if the hard baits are truly 1oz. GLX 842c MBR GLX 843c MBR If I was dead set on 1 being a spinning rod I would swap the 842c for the GLX 842s SJR, which I am told is the same rod blank. These rods also have a 6'6" option if you want shorter and cork handles. And less expensive options in IMX Pro and E6X. NOW if I was on a kayak and there was a chance I could turn over and loss my gear, I would not use my glx rods but would choose my less costly option. Hammer Rods in MH and H, which fishes more like M+ and MH+. They are very parabolic rods which allows them to be even more versatile rods to me than the Loomis MBR. Hammer rods come in 6'9" and 7' options BUT they have winn grips. If you want cork you could get the Hammer JAK series in 7' with same blanks and still under less than 1/2 of your budget. I would not recommend the 852 jwr rod and loomis still makes the 842 MBR's. I have the glx 852s and all of the rods I recommended above. I love my 852 jwr but for single hook lures only due to the xf tip! The 842 blank is slower, thus more versatile and would handle those crankbaits, jerkbaits, and topwater lures a lot better! Pretty much any standard Medium Fast and MH Fast rod should cover what you need! At a $500 price point, is is hard to beat the GLX MBR for versatility, sensitivity, and warranty!

It is different animal without a doubt! Some like it, some hate it, and some learn how to adjust for it. Unfortunately, you will have to make that determination! I personally adjusted and it works for me! Answers will vary since it is an individual experience issue! I will also add the reel you use could make a difference due to shape and size!

A transducer on stern (back) will not be in the water when on plane so you will not have any depth/sonar reading. Only way to have depth reading while on plane is by having an in-hull transducer. Typically you can use a transducer y cable for you brand to connect 2 transducer to the unit and use you in-hull transducer for depth. Some of the older boats came with a in-hull transducer already glassed into the boat. Look for it and its cable in your battery compartment floor in front of the motor. If you have one you may also need an adaptor to connect it to your y cable. If not you will have to add one if you want depth reading on plane.

Unfortunately no! I was told they had an official announcement for something at I-Cast but have pushed it back later this year. I was told gen4 Helix is coming and with a 15 inch option (my guess for next announcement following the 2 year release trend). I was told they have 360 Live now but not how close they are in a finalized product for release. Dual processors in the units will be key for 360 Live due to processing power needed (gen3 +??) After fishing the mega 360 last week I am also looking to upgrade but will wait for gen4 units to be released to see how much more powerful they are over the gen3 +. Since they just released mega 360 I do not think they will release Live until late 2021 or 2022 based on their 2 year release trends if it is a new hardware upgrade BUT if it is software/add-on for mega 360 it could come sooner! Again, this is only my speculation but it would seem only sonar speed and processing power is holding live 360 back. The real question is if humminbird will milk it by only releasing non mega 360 live first and drag it out over more time to sell more products. I hope the competition Garmin brings will speed up it's release and hopefully it will be mega quality on day 1!

360 Live is coming. But Garmin has a lot of advanced technology and they are only slowly releasing what to have to max their profits.

Looking at picture it appears your line is not tight on spool and you have loops (see several on front of spool in pic) and maybe overfilled (hard to tell). Do the following: Then look at line on spool. Your line should be below the height of the edges of your reel spool around 1/8 inch. If you have too much, pull off line until you have it correct and cut off extra. Your lure appears to be weightless. I would recommend to get a lead sinker similar to a teardrop with swivel in around 3/8+ ounce weight and practice yard casting. It will not get hung up in grass as often and you can easily pull it free while learning to cast. Lastly, anytime you press the thumb bar and release the spool you must control (hold) the spool with your thumb if there is a chance the spool can turn! I think you missed that point! If you do not it can free spool and cause issues. While walking the line off you need to apply slight pressure with thumb to keep the spoil from spinning to fast, when you are removing line from the spool you need to make sure you are controlling the spool etc. When the thumb bar has been engaged, the only time you should release the spool completely is at the point in the cast that you want the lure to be casted, assuming you have the brakes set safely and correctly. Think throwing a baseball! Keep at it and do not give up! You will get it with practice! Just make sure you fix your line after every backlash! Remove any loops or kinks and keep your line tight on the spool!