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Yeah, that'll work. Just be sure that when you hook up the wires to the plug that they're not reversed. I'll also add to make sure that the charger isn't rated above the trolling motor. In other words, don't use a 50 amp charger with a 30 amp trolling motor plug. You'll likely blow the fuse and might melt the connector.

When I need strong, I go with an epoxy like JB Weld. The downside is, it's 24 hours to cure. But get the 24 hour curing type, as the stuff that cures in just a few hours or minutes doesn't hold as strong.

I know most of you follow the dogwoods, but around here, we have a ton of Bradford Pears, and their blooming generally marks the beginning of the prespawn (in my area). Sure enough, yesterday I noticed they were starting to bloom and today I caught a few up shallowish (around 4-6 FOW in lake that maxes out at 12-14 FOW)! I'm excited! I can't seem to catch a thing in the winter months, no matter what I try, but once the prespawn starts, it's on!

The heavier the spinnerbait the faster you can retrieve it while keeping it deeper in the water column. The blade size will play a bigger role in that, but the weight does have some effect. Also, casting distance, especially in the wind, will likely be greater with the heavier spinnerbait.

Sharpening is more about technique than tool. I typically use a Fiskars brand diamond file (about 600 grit) for general sharpening and an Arkansas whetstone (about 1000-2000 grit) for finishing. Both are about 4" long. Though I've also used various files, sandpaper, and the edge of the glass on my truck window quite a bit (works really well, surprisingly). Actually, some good aluminum oxide sandpaper is almost impossible to beat. It stows away anywhere and can be bought in multiple grits so you can not only have the sharpest hooks possible, but not spend forever sharpening them to get them there. And you don't have to worry about it wearing out. You just toss it and grab a new sliver. All you need is something to back it up. I've never thought much of those dedicated hook sharpeners. They're more gimmick than serious tool to me.

No. They brought it up before I could ask. Though I don't trust the bass that talk. They're not right in the head.

I'm of the opinion that the bass will bite whatever you throw at them, so long as you throw it at the right place, during the right time, and retrieve it the right way. Bass rarely care about action, color or profile, but care greatly about speed, timing and proximity. Then again, I'm also of the opinion that a chartreuse and black Norman Fat Boy is a magic squarebill that will catch bass with nothing else will. And lipless crankbaits work better without hooks, because they snag less grass while still catching an equal number of fish. The moral of this story is I have no idea of what I'm doing and am in no position to offer advice on tackle to anyone. And somehow knowing that hasn't stopped me from developing these deeply held yet self-contradictory beliefs.

Yeah, I turn mine off and pull it out when I'm going to be in water less than 2 feet. I've already had to replace my transducer once. It didn't stop working completely, but it got to the point where it was beat up enough that it lost its sensitivity and wouldn't pick up much more than the bottom. I could go over a tree that I could physically see, and it would just tell me the bottom was 15 ft. down and sloping. Useless for finding fish or cover.

I'd be fine with any of the above. I'd be thrilled with a 6.3 lb large mouth! But I'd probably pick that largemouth, just for the shear size. Oh, bring on the haters! I'm completely fine with that. If I cared what other people thought, I'd have never made it out of high school! So long as I have the love and respect of my family and a few close friends, the rest is just white noise.

Check the angle that the arms are splayed. If they're not all balanced correctly, it can cause them to spin.

Exactly what I was thinking. I mean a fish that wants to jump out of the water on command can't be THAT hard to control with a little investment and ingenuity.

BPS and Cabella's sell the Premier with split grips. It's an "exclusive" offering from them. However, the Premier has the SCII blank like the Bass X.

As long as it's not seriously ugly, I don't much care.

See, I would argue the opposite. That if it's that critical to you, then you shouldn't ever put yourself into a situation where you're having to monitor the charge. The reason being that there's no accurate way to know the charge in a lithium battery. The best you can do is measure the amount of current drawn over time from the battery, and make an estimate based on that. But that requires a consistent and predictable charge being put into the battery to begin with. And the charge and operating temperatures, cells' age and health, and variations from battery to battery from the factory will change all of that. So if it reads 25% full, it might actually be at 10% or 40%. That's partly why cell phones always seem to run for two days on the first 80% of a charge and only last a few minutes in the final 20% of a charge.

I'm limited to six rods in my kayak, so if it can't pull multiple duties, I can't afford to bring it!

And that's why I DON'T carry. It's okay if you do. I won't judge. But if I'm unarmed and in a situation where a crazy person pulls a gun on me, I'm gonna smile and politely back down. I'm pretty good at talking my way out of a jam. But if I am armed, I might think it wise to defend myself against an unstable aggressor who already has me outdrawn.

The Mojo has the SCIII blank, which is more sensitive. But the Bass X's SCII isn't necessarily un-sensitive. Plus it's probably a bit more durable. And since you'll be using it for moving baits, sensitivity isn't super important. Either would be fine, but I'd probably go with the Mojo if I were you. Even when sensitivity isn't important, it's still appreciated. It'll make it easier to slow roll a spinnerbait or crankbait and feel the point at which is just starts to vibrate.

Used boats are just like used cars. They're always a gamble. It could be rotted beyond repair (or beyond being worth the cost of repair). Or it could be good as new, only much cheaper. See if the guy with the used boat will take you out in it, or let you borrow it for a day. That'll let you know a bit about how it runs and if it needs any major repairs up front. Better still, take along someone who knows boats and get their opinion. If it all checks out, that's the direction I'd lean.

For storing at home, I'd just leave your soft plastics in their original packages, or put them in ziploc bags if you've lost those. What to put those packages in, depends on how many you have. If it's not too many, then I recommend just something like a standard plastic storage bin. It's stackable and you can get them in the size that best fits whatever space you want to put the bin(s) in. If it's a good bit more, then maybe look into the binders, and put those in the storage bins. That'll help keep things organized so you can actually find what you're looking for. The 3700 style cases are kind of expensive for holding all of your unused soft plastics. Plus, they'll open you up to cross contamination (mainly color bleed) and cause your scented plastics to dry out faster. They're much better for organizing hard plastics and perhaps transporting a few soft plastics that you actually plan to use. The best thing with them is that you can set up specific cases for specific circumstances. So you might have one that's all the lure you could want for bank fishing one particular lake. And another might be for boat fishing during the prespawn. And another might be just deep crankbaits, or crankbaits for stained water. So you might get 15 different 3700 cases, but only take 2 or 3 with you. Or maybe 12-14. It's totally modular!

If someone asks for help, or if through our conversation I come to believe that they would appreciate it, sure I'll tell them everything I know. I don't believe in keeping secrets. Or maybe I just don't believe any of my secrets are worth keeping. Hmmm... Either way, I'm nice, but not friendly. I don't go fishing to make friends and meet strangers. But I also don't go out of my way to avoid people.

Thicker braid also doesn't dig into the spool as much as thinner braid. And if you get too much dig in, it can get caught on your next cast and snap the line and then you'll lose your bait. Plus, I find it easier to tie leaders to mainlines when the leader and mainline are around the same diameter. And if you do get a backlash, it's usually easier to dig out. I'd go for the braid to fluoro lead in your position. The reason being that braid is softer, more flexible, and doesn't have much memory, so it'll likely be easier to cast with. Plus it'll last forever. And the fluoro leader gives you the nearly invisible line, which might be important in clear water. I just go straight braid, myself. But I don't fish clear water.

Great... Now I just bought another because I'm worried that my problem all along was none of the seven I owned were good ones. Lucky no. 8?

Well, you don't need any qualifications to be published as a reviewer, you're free to lie about your experience without the threat of getting caught, some people are paid or compensated for their review, there are tons of bots out there spamming reviews, AND sometimes companies will upload one product and switch it out with another so that the reviews from the previous product carries over to the second. Add to that the different experiences and expectations of the reviewer, and it's almost amazing that any two reviews will align. So with all of that in mind, how can you trust any review? Personally, I just trust the reviews of people on forums like this. And even then, I have to take them with a grain of salt.

Go with the 100Ah. They're not that much more expensive, and you'll get added assurance, plus it'll put less wear and tear on your battery since you won't be draining it as far, so it should last longer. I use a 50Ah for my kayak (trolling motor only, the sonar runs on a separate battery). It'll run all day for me, but my motor is a 30 amp. The Xi3 is a 52 amp motor. And the only reason I didn't go with a 100Ah battery, even though I don't need it, is because it's too big to fit in my front hatch.

I keep the Z-man Elaztec plastics in their original bag. For all other soft plastics, I keep them in a single 3600 box, sorted by color (because sometimes the colors can bleed). I keep the rest of my soft plastics in their original bags at home. Before going out for a day of fishing, I'll load up the 3600 box with whatever I think I might need for the day. It saves room, weight, and makes it easier to find what I need. Yeah, in theory I'm limiting my choices on the water and might be missing out on a bite. But, the way I see it, what are the odds that I would ever try a bait that I didn't think enough of to even bring?