BrianMDTX

Just getting back into bass fishing, the choices (can be) overwhelming. Other than pros, I never saw anyone 30 years ago with dozens of rod/reel combos set up for one particular presentation. Most angler had two or three rigs and used them for various baits. Maybe a BC with a MH for TR, Rapala plugs and other crankbaits and topwater baits, and a spinning rig for smaller baits (I never heard the term “finesse” used back then). So any new angler today can be challenged by the myriad choices in rods, reels, lines, etc. I’m trying to keep it simple. I have four rigs: a BC on a MHF rod and one on a MF; and a spinning rig on a MHF and another on a MF. I’m trying to fish a few certain baits and get proficient with them vs casting anything and everything and not really learning much about the do’s and don’ts. And if I get no bites in 20 minutes, I’ll stick with it until I’m fairly confident that bait just doesn’t work. Which may not actually be true for an angler with more experience than I have, but I’ll keep at it to learn the process. I’ll never start a day casting a 5” Senko WR. I’ve probably caught 75% of my bass since I got back into fishing in May on that bait. I know I can catch at least one bass on that if cast it long enough. But it’s not helping me learn other presentations if I constantly fall back on the reliable. Taking time to learn how and when to fish new baits can be frustrating. Many give up after 5-10 casts and say the lure’s no good. Most of the posters here know that’s untrue...because they’ve stuck it out. I’ve seen the same exact thing in bowhunting. You can teach a new bowhunter how to shoot a bow, read sign, play the wind, set up good stands, etc. But many hunt an hour or so, see no deer and pack up and leave, and spook a nice buck that was just approaching their stand. Patience and perseverance are something many find hard to master in many aspects of life. Including fishing.

I have cast a weightless TR Senko on both my Aird X rods. One a 7’ MHF and the other a 6’6” MF. Both will cast them but I find the MH better on hooksets. Plus, I don’t really bomb cast TR as a rule. Maybe 60’-90’ on average. But in a pond that’s about all I need. If that lol

I cannot address the Washington state location as I’m in Texas. But I have a suggestion. I gather from the info provided that you are using a 5” Senko on a weightless Texas rig. If so, try a wacky rig. I use a Gamakatsu 1/0 octopus hook (you can use a circle hook but I prefer an octopus) and an O ring. You can opt to simply put the hook through the Senko but your Senkos will last longer using O rings. Get 1/4” ID ones at HD to try. Rather than casting as you have been doing (which will catch bass), walk the shoreline slowly and quietly looking for tree limbs overhanging the water, as well as any submerged branches, logs, stumps, etc. Many of my casts when fishing from the bank are no longer than 10’-15’. Flip the Senko out and let it sink. If no strike, raise it up a bit and let it sink again. If no strike, reel it in and recast. Work those areas with several casts in the same spots before you move on. It’s amazing how some times that bait can cross a bass’ nose 3-4 times and nothing...and cast #5 gets a strike. If you’ve never fished a WR, don’t set the hook. When the line starts running, lift the rod about 45° and reel in the slack tight and the hook will set itself. I also fish 5” Senkos on a weightless Texas rig at times. I am a big Texas rig guy. But I have probably caught 75% of my bass this year on a Senko wacky rig. I may catch several or only one or two, but so far (knock on wood), every trip this year using a 5” Senko WR has produced at least one bass. Good luck!

I’m sure I’m like most here. If I get a snag that’s not gonna release, I cut the line while holding the line to the lure, then pull it until the knot breaks. Then I’ll pull the line in and toss it when I get home (unless a trash can is near). Maybe those using straight 65# braid have difficulty with that.

I don’t have any docks to skip under, but I do have a lot of tree branches that overhang and leave holes to skip a Senko in (either weightless TR or WR). One of my favorite ways to fish.

I do not know how their baitcasting rods are, but I really, really like the Daiwa Procyon spinning rod I just got. The cork grips are very nice for the price and it’s pretty sensitive.

I have a Daiwa Revros LT2500 and a Daiwa Aird X 661MFB (not a combo- the Revros is on a Fenwick and a Black Max is on the Aird X). I really like the two Aird X rods I have (one M and the other MH), and the Revros is a hidden gem. A Revros on a MF Aird X would be a great combo for weightless TR Senkos.

Just ordered a few things today from TW. Wanted to get some tackle for setting up Carolina rigs and ventured into other areas lol. Gama Octopus Circle Hook Offset Point 1/0 WG Green Low Profile Steel Sinker 3/8 Owner Micro Hyper Barrel Swivel Vike Force Bead Green Pumpkin Fish Lab Soft Bio Gill Weedless Ghost Bluegill 4.5" Yama Fat Ika Fading Watermelon w/ Bk Flk KVD Dream Shot Dirt

If I was shooting a 2020 Hoyt Invicta target compound with X10 shafts and Jesse Broadwater was using my old Buckmaster 2000 with Gamegetters, he’d shoot the pants off me. I’ve said it before- only those with the skills that separate the great from the average truly benefit from top-of-the-line gear. I would wager that most bass anglers could not get that much more benefit out of a $500 rod or reel than they would out of a $150 reel or rod. The technology is there, but the skill to put it to practical use is not. I’m sure in my case it’s likely not. Having said that, new top-shelf gear can make things easier and more enjoyable (as much as I like my 50 year-old Garcia Mitchell 300, even the $49.99 Daiwa Revros LT2500 or <gasp!> $24.99 Shimano Sienna 2500 is a lot easier to use and so much quieter) than older but still serviceable gear. I can just imagine the difference I'd feel fishing with a truly silky-smooth upper end spinning or baitcasting reel. But I don’t know if I’d catch more bass.

I fish weighted and weightless TR...a lot. It’s one of my favorite baits to cast. I’m getting some sinkers, swivels and beads to set up some Carolina rigs with worms and creature baits. I know they are different rigs, so what I’m asking is, what situation(s) make you choose to fish a CR over a TR? Water temps? Depth? Structure? Aggressive vs non-aggressive bites? Time of year? And do you use the same hooks as with a TR (on the same bait) or something different?

I agree. I caught my PB (over 6 lbs) on a #4 Eagle Claw baitholder hook. I was fishing for panfish. The bass thought otherwise lol. I see no benefit with large hooks in small baits.

That’s a nice bass! Something to get excited about!

I tried a new pond this morning. I stopped by earlier this week to take a look at it and it looked bassy. Wow. Nothing but snags! No topwater and lost two Senko WR to snags. Very disappointing. I left around 10:00 and headed to the pond near my house where I’ve fished all year so far. Nothing of size, but caught four in the 1 to 1.5 lb class so it ended up well. Caught two on a Texas rig with a Zoom Bait Mag ribbon tail worm in purple and a 1/8” bullet weight, and one on a weightless TR with a green pumpkin Zoom trick worm. The last fish was on a 3.8” Keitech in sungill that I was casting and reeling in slowly between pauses. First catch using one of those!

I believe a Rage Craw with a 1/8 oz. bullet weight is within the weight range of your rod. I have a Garcia Black Max with 12 lb YZH on a Daiwa Aird X MH/F rod and I can cast that rig a decent distance.

I’ve been skipping a lot lately, but with a Senko WR. I’m surprised how deep under overhanging trees (like the cover you fished) you can reach skipping a Senko. And I think you are spot on. Bigger bass feel safe there and will attack anything that gets dropped right in front of them. So far my biggest is 4 lbs, but it is a fun way to fish!

Great story! It’s amazing how some fish are so lightly hooked and get landed, and others are textbook perfect and they throw the freakin’ hook!

I think you are turning him into a fishing machine!

I have 12 lb YZH on my baitcasters. It casts well and I have no issues with it on topwaters, spinnerbaits or T rigs.

Not sure how old your kids are, but I’ll tell you something my dad (who passed away last year at 86) told me several years ago. He said “Son, I wish when I first took you and your brother fishing, I would have left my rod home and just let you guys fish”. When I taught my daughters how to fish, I gave up on the concept of trying to fish myself. It’s basically impossible to do while untangling lines and answering a thousand questions. Let ‘em fish and have fun.

You ain’t kidding! Look at his forearms straining! Great bass!

I’m with you. But...in the spirit of the choices given lol, I’ll take mono. Why? Simple. I have 1,000’s of hours of experience fishing with mono, vs a couple months with braid and none with FC. I’m comfortable with what it will and won’t do and it holds no surprises. It would not kill me as of today to use nothing but Trilene XL or Big Game from here on out if I had to.

I primarily (well, only) fish shallow ponds. So I perceive no benefit from casting a weighted Senko when a weightless one will cast clear across the pond and sink to the bottom in less than 5 seconds. And pick up much less pond muck to boot.

I have line stained like that as well. My line is more greenish-brown than this, but still stained. From algae.

I would tie a 3/8 oz lure (or weight) directly to the braid and cast for distance. That will eliminate any potential leader issues. If that casts well, tie on a leader that remains outside the tip guide (3” as suggested by WRB). Cast again. If good, try a leader that’s longer and is inside the tip guide and see what the results are. I had 20 lb braid and a 8 lb leader on my Daiwa Revros LT2500 on a Fenwick HMX66MH-FS-2 rod and it casted well. Your rig should, too.

I have never had poison ivy/oak/sumac. As a hunter, I know I’ve been exposed, but I’ve never had a single reaction. Knock on wood. Stinging nettle? OMG! That’s another story!