GetFishorDieTryin

The Wildeye Shads were good when they first came out. The started using lower grade hooks and cut the number of baits in half per bag but still charged the same price. I like to throw them for stripers, but if there are blues or any other toothy fish around, one hit can ruin a bait.

I dont use M power spinning gear for freshwater bass either, but inshore is a different story. The exception would be Loomis, there mediums are closer the most other companies ML. I used to throw a lot of heavier tubes, like coffee tubes on an XF ML. There were so many times I felt like I needed more power for a better hooksett, I was losing way to many fish. Eventually I just started tubes with a thinner plastic plastic and that made a huge difference.

Post frontal conditions, cold water or when your fishing pressured water, losing the skirt on a spinnerbait or bladed jig can make a difference.

Two has them on sale I think

I saw that the TW Bass Mafia Money Bags were on sale, I like the 6th sense bags so I figured I would try the TW BM bag. After it had arrived I opened the zipper and tried to open the seal in the bag and it wouldn't open. I tried it again with a fair amount of force and it wouldn't budge, I feel like I'm going to tear it if I keep trying. I feel dumb asking how to open a Ziploc bag, but it is what it is. So how do you open it? Anyone else have this issue?

As long as its out of the sun and hasn't been exposed to high and low temps for years, it should be fine. Tests a length of it for breaking strength if you want to be sure it hasn't been damaged. If the line coils DONT throw it out. Soak it in a bucket of water overnight or for 24 hours, it should take most of the memory out of the line. Spool it up after you soak it.

Its not the frame that has issues its the internal parts that see wear that need to be replaced. There are exceptions, but once the parts aren't being manufactured anymore the price increases. If your spending 80$ on parts to fix a 100$ reel your probably better off buying a new reel.

Lol, I remember those. I think I have a bag of the 4.5 in tequila sunrise in an old tackle box. I dont remember who made them, but I used to buy them from Kmart.

There really isn't a wrong way to fish them IMO. I fish them a few different ways. Just like a crankbait, I grind them through rip rap at a decent pace. When I bang into a rock I pause it for a second or 2 and go back to grinding it. Usually the hit comes on the pause or as you start to move it again. I think they call that "bottom buggin." Other times I fish it the same way I fish a FB jig in the winter, slowly dragging it a few inches at a time. I havent done this with swing heads, but Ive had success wacky rigging stickbaits on a jig. I wouldnt see why it wouldn't work on a swinghead.

I buy target loads from Cabelas once a year if there is a good sale, but other then that they really mark up prices on steel, Tung/Bismuth and lead game loads. The people they have working the desk aren't exactly knowledgeable. They had sent out a flyer with a Rem V3 on sale and I had asked the salesmen at the counter if they had any V3s, he looked at me like I had 2 heads. I grabbed a flyer form the stack of them on the counter and showed him the gun. He said oh, that must be a misprint. At that point walked away.

There's still a couple good fly shops in Pa. Your not going to get anything for a bargain, but if you need it they have it. The Wal Marts up here really dont carry anything good and BPS/Cabelas are overpriced and good luck trying to find a common item in a Cabelas store. I went to the Christiana, DE store Spring of 2019 and needed a list of like 8 or 9 common items. I didnt expect to find them all, but they had 0 of them, no DS weights at all, no Keitechs no #8 #10 or #12 Blue label....if it wasn't a BPS or Cabelas Item odds are they don't have it. Theres a small Pro Shop about 15 mins from me that's an excellent shop. They're still in business because they carry good gear, have really good prices and have been around for a long time.

I think it varies from state to state, if your in an area that is known for excellent fishing or hunting the money from people traveling to the area to fish or hunt can go a long way. The state taxes and are a big factor as well.

The dials on the Curado and SLX DC can be a little tricky but I've never had one stick....yet. Is your reel full of hardened slime/ debris? Have you used it in salt water?

I prefer dart heads to ball heads unless I'm dragging. I like to use darter heads with a longer collar, I think it may help keep the jig horizontal on the fall. I like 1/16 #1 Owner Ultra Darter Heads, I can use them for Keitechs, Hair Jigs or just about anything else I want to swim. I like the Gami 211 for an AP ball head for micro hair jigs.

It depends on what you want to do with it. Ive never had the chance to get my hands on a 7'6 H Curado but I would be conscience about getting a reel that would balance well with it. The rod I throw bigger FB jigs on is tip heavy but most of the time I fish it tip down so its not a deal breaker.

Its Trilene Big Game, it's a decent mono especially for the price I think it's about 7$ per 1k yards.

The heaviest FC ive use on it is 15lb and it's handled it well. I think braid is far and away more sensitive then FC but I hesitate to use it unless its absolutely necessary. If you want to use jigs from 3/8-1.5 oz check out mag tapers.

It's going to be tough to find a rod that performs well with a range of weight that size. 3/8-1 or 1.25 would be more realistic. I love my Met B for just about anything, but it does well with jigs. I think my JDM pitches a little better then my USDM Met B because the JDM has a smaller spool.

I think the TRDs have a different salt content then the zinkers but the TRD and big TRD are the same. The idea of the TRD is to be subtle. If you want action from a zman bait the turbo craws, boar hogs, trd hogs, finesse shads and finesse worms have more action. I've never had issues with any of the zman plastics tearing with standard jig heads. The hogz seem to wear out the fastest out of all of them but I still get over a dozen fish before they have to be replaced.

If you dont like catching bass on a fly I don't want to business with you. A 2lb bass on a 3wt is really fun. There isn't as much gear involved overall in fly fishing. Just like anything else it takes practice to become proficient and it can take years to perfect a cast. I didn't fly fish for years and took a trip with a buddy to try to catch the green drake hatch and it took me a couple hours to get my timing back.

Yeah, its super easy. I use fly tying wire and it works great. Thread is a little cheaper and works really well, but I would suggest getting a bobbin to make things a little easier. If the bands have completley disintegrated and the skirt has fallen apart Boss makes good replacement skirts for the money.

There are exceptions, but Ike has put his name on some products that I wouldn't use if they were free. The Ike approved VMC weedless wacky may honestly be the worst hook I've ever used. On the other end are the Neko and the Rugby head which I really like.

The longer handle just requires less exertion to turn then a shorter handle under load. If there is a direct connection from the handle to the spool, then yes a longer lever would make a difference. The longer handle doesn't create a larger contact surface between the main and the pinion. The distance your hand travels has nothing to do with IPT or output of the gear when there is a mechanical advantage.

Maybe I just don't understand it What does a pic of a red have to do with anything? Actually now that I look at the fish a second time I completely understand.

Right but that doesn't give the reel anymore torque, it just gives you move leverage which makes it easier to turn. Yes you move the gear, but it doesnt matter how much force it takes to turn the gear, the ratio stays the same.