bulldog1935

@redmeansdistortion Good to know. There's a big difference in the tolerance and fit of high-torque and run-of-the-mill Allen (hex) bits. And part of it, you need a dedicated tool with a fixed handle, because gunsmithing bit + handle won't fit inside a handle knob. If you go to a place like McMaster, the quality Allen tools are sold as High Torque. The fit is so tight you have to align them very straight just insert into the socket. Back to that fit, if you try cheap tools on solid hex sockets, especially alloy screws, you'll end up rounding out the hex socket.

I remain a fan of my Lew's Super Duty, enough to buy a second. But at that price, Daiwa Zillion is Do Not Pass Go.

Going with what you know and are comfortable with (again) is acceptable. Recognizing what's The Same between different brands is the first step in the right direction. Understanding what differences make your choice better for your specific niche is best. Being brand loyal is sort of like not trying, being obstinate without reason, or simply doing what marketers tell you to do.

Here's my daughter fishing the same rod with Penn 4200SS on Fulton Beach Pier (chilly Spring Break) this was about a month before we replaced it with 7'6" solid-tip and 7'9" tubular-tip XUL Japanese Rockfish rods, and moved up our game. These were $100 rods that compare to Major Craft 2nd-tier rods, and they're still fishing a dozen years later.

I use a square-tipped sable art brush. Then use a toothpick to lift whatever excess folds from the pinion gear.

and they also had friction drags such as Williams and Pflueger Cub, but no anti-reverse, and you had to hold the handle still to use them. and imitating squid with a jig is still the bait

almost never more than 5 lbs - offshore, I only need 7 lbs. If I push the black button, I can get a little more. The reel is capable to 35 lbs, but one-fourth of the 30-lb test line is 7 lbs. You should always set at one-fourth of your weakest link, line, leader, or rod max line rating.

if you don't mind doing the math conversion, this one is 11 lbs https://www.amazon.com/Ajax-Scientific-ME505-5000-Plastic-Capacity/dp/B00EPQGXUQ/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Ajax+Scientific&qid=1662513165&sr=8-18 If you search, the same vendor offers more accurate in the same size with 6.6 lbs. Here, the conversion, lbs to g https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=lbs+to+g This old 8-lb Salton spring balance has me covered - never need more than 7 lbs

BFE has Nikko Okiami in stock https://baitfinesseempire.com/product/nikko-okiami-shrimp-m/ orange glitter - pretty shrimpy color

a couple more shrimp finesse lures Jungle Gym Yuri - stick bait with a kick Duo Ebikko on bottom is a glow lure for dock fishing. There are always little crabs and shrimp swimming around the lights. Here's how I rig a Nikko Okiami to finesse fish below a small clicking cigar cork. Done the same thing for decades with 1/4 oz Stazo jigheads and Hogys. On the snap, it doubles over like a tail-kicking shrimp, and settles down head-first like a shrimp swimming with its legs back into the grass. This fishes really well on spinning tackle. The Nikko lures are made from krill, so the taste is built in.

That's on a size 6 2x-long Mustad stainless - you could go to size 4. Shrimpy thread Tail (antennae) is a mix of krystal flash and bucktail Bead chain pair outside the hook bend Palmered rooster hackle to keep everything open A pair of pheasant crest feathers on one side (Ally's puts them on both sides) Pheasant rump soft hackle collar - nothing looks more like shell in the water, and it's loaded with iridescent red, blue and green. Looks totally strange and totally behaves like an evading shrimp with a line strip. It works for a crab, as well, and is generic crustacean food-thingy on the flats.

The fly I added, I derived from Ally's shrimp, which is a west-coast chrome salmon lure. Second cast of the morning thrown into jumping shrimp. First cast was a bigger spec that tore the hook out on her second run.

That is MagBite Mimiq, it's a shrimp and I used the Vanfook single-loop hooks tied with red PE braid, because the attractor adds to the evading shrimp lure action - tail and antennae. I am dying to wade a salt lake and sight-fish redfish with it. Here's the equivalent lure I would use on a fly rod. We have a dozen kayakers in a redfish rodeo late next month, and the lake just above will be on the venue.

@redmeansdistortion When I did the same thing, Jun or Kayo (son) told me they weren't set up to add, but make a note in your second order, and they'll refund shipping. Since I'm showing lures, Jackson Bottom Magic is a mudball machine. Vanfook sells VANZ that's a pre-tied woolly booger, here on Mukai Max spinner it's an inline spinner you can bottom-bounce because the hook rides up.

Smith split ring tweezers on top that work everything down to 0, Jeweler's split ring pliers down to 2, and TTF sprit ring pliers limited to 4. Lures 4" to 35 mm And yes, I have an Ott magnifier and lamp... @redmeansdistortion if you throw any finesse spoons, Vanfook Twin Dancer hooks are a game-changer that also improves the spoon action. My last river spotted bass trip. the "clear chartreuse" Rodio Craft spoon was the day's lure.

They knew that in the '30s, when the only drag was a leather thumb pad. (offshore squidding reel, squid is the bait) The braided silk and linen lines then would also pick up sand and become a saw, which was why they used agate guides.

Since we switched to single plug hooks, the very best I've used is Vanfook ME-41MB, recently replaced by MEB-41F (same-same) BaitFinesseEmpire stocks these. The shank is so short for the gap, it lets you go up a hook size on tiny plugs. The 45-mm Smith Gunship (pink) has #3. Even the 36-mm Gunship will fish #6. Last winter, landed a couple of 18" snook on 38-mm Ryuki-S with Cultiva #8 single plug hooks. I've gone to Vanfook #6 on those, too. Here on the Cultiva hooks, you can see the difference in shank length. I'll also add tiny plug hooks foul on the line 3/4 casts on spinning finesse, but almost never foul on BFS.

Don't need it. It's simply blue loctite already in the threads from the factory. The trick is tighten it a little before you try to loosen it. It's very important to have screwdrivers that fit well, though. Wiha is a good choice for a mini screwdriver set. or for a single, #1 Phillips or JS-S, 4 mm. BTW, Daiwa uses some 1.5-mm hex socket heads in their handle screws. Only the Daiwa tool will work for them - without stripping the hex. https://japantackle.com/tools-and-others/tools/tog0000048.html

We've discussed this before on the forum, the risk might be over-rated, and probably doesn't apply to a beefier spool like Avail or @FishTank's Silver Wolf. They still have the center support spokes and full-ring side flanges that give support. Plus the spool tube itself is without cut-outs and adds support. That said, I've seen heat-exchanger tubes that flattened to ribbon from low internal pressure instability, with cooling water surrounding the outside flashing to steam and creating steam pressure that crushed them.

no, it's actually the opposite. Mono/fluoro stretches, and if it's loaded onto the spool under tension, it can relax and crush the spool. Since braid doesn't stretch, that can't happen. When I found the same question on a thread by @desmobob since we both fly fish, I was able to use the example of fly reels loaded with mono, which can blow the side flanges out of fly reel spools when the mono stretch relaxes. We can't link to the Express website on BR, but if you check AMO spools they specifically warn against mono, and recommend braid. Come to think of it, I guess there's nothing against a screen capture: This is PE#0.8 being spooled on a Roro-X spool, which I've fished 18 months now, landed specs, redfish and snook.

@Cbump that's how we used to kill A/R dogs on Lew's BB-1. I'll rather kill an A/R dog than a pinion gear.

A spool in freespool is not engaged to anything, because the pinion gear is disengaged from the spool by the clutch lifting the gear from the spool pins and locking - that's what makes it freespool. Turning the crank engages the spool to the drive by releasing the clutch, allowing springs to push the pinion gear back into the spool pins. You can hurt the pinion gear if this doesn't re-engage fully, or if you try to engage it against a moving spool.

It's more like General Gas Law, PV=nRT The volume is fixed and constrained gas expansion with increasing temperature rapidly increases pressure (much greater than thermal expansion of solids). Note the change in pressure with temperature is a straight line. BTW, plastic does the opposite of thermal expansion. Increasing temperature causes the polymer chains to coil up and shorten (this is what makes multi-viscosity oil work). You always notice with your kayak rigging that the dyneema lines are shorter in the summer and longer in the winter - and why you need a bungee in your rigging. you really see the length change in deployent lines

You can upgrade shipping on most Amazon.jp orders to DHL for only $5 more, and it arrives in 4 days. Amazon.jp ships from both their warehouses and individual sellers, the latter may charge much more for shipping, so look closely at your cart and shipping cost before you buy.

ok, here it is again. Analyzing when backlash is occurring is very important to solving it. Primer on 3 types of backlash and 4 types of brakes.