bulldog1935

With an anchor, you probably want an anchor trolley to be able to aim the aspect of your boat, relative to the wind and shore. Boats tend to windcock perpendicular to the wind, which also makes them less than stable. The most stable boat has the keel line parallel to the wind. More often than an anchor, I use a drift sock, with the trolley. Here's my buddy Josh drifting a very narrow boat, and in a beating 18-kt wind. He can only do this because he has drift sock deployed at stern using his trolley.

If you want the Really small stuff, YGK Olltolos Finesse in PE#0.5 is 12-lb, 0.12 mm diameter. You won't find any smoother. This is the smallest braid I use, and tough to see. It's smaller than 832 in 6-lb, and the same reported diameter as Sufix Nanobraid in 8-lb. My experience loading spools, Sufix is always a little thicker than they report, and YKG is always a little thinner.

I vote for Malwarebytes, and use on my Android phone. Also on home computer with great results.

Inshore, I fish this neutral-density TSL Grasswalker ad infinitude. On the expanse shallow flats, it finds the zone, right on top of the grass, and dog-walks with any retrieve. Also weedless, and fishes right through the grass. I've tried Owner, VMC, and stuck with Trokar 140. My buddy Tobin designed this lure after 1000 prototypes, and per his recommendation, I bend every hook so the point aims at the eye. On his website, some guys are also reporting bass catches, especially using weighted swimbait hooks.

it's not the fish we mind ? It's more like the redundancy. There's a retired guy on a local coast website who, every day, posts the same photo of him holding a speckled trout really close to his camera short focal length. Same expression, same knuckles, and can't really tell if it's a different fish.

All fair enough, but giving up spool bearing mass reduces inertia, which adds up in the light lures, cast distance, and especially backlash control considerations - making the low-inertia bearings both easier to start and easier to stop. (really has nothing to do with a 175-lb cyclist bouncing along potholes - his concern comes from weight-weenie imagination) You might notice between the spool bearing grades shown, there are notable differences between bearing-ball size, composition, and overall mass. I think it's fair to assume the bearings made just for light lures improve that task, and are under-qualified for throwing meat and spider-weights - there's certainly a difference in contact stress on the bearing balls and races. As far as Japanese language and limited ability for it to transliterate into English, it makes more sense to them if it stays in their language, and when they beta-google us, we sound just as silly to them. They're just nicer about it. Bearing oil viscosity - well, my surf reel with full zirconia spool bearings, there's a notable response difference in mag-brake effect (lost a bit of Lenz there) - though virtually mass-less and low inertia, and they otherwise don't need any oil, I have to use a higher viscosity bearing oil to get a backlash-free 100-m cast with meat and spider-weight. The real purpose of this bearing choice is the reel getting washed in surf slurry.

maybe he misses replacing A/R dogs every season

The example I had to show was Lami 8'6' MTC - this is for getting away from hull slap drifting the coast flats in a power boat, or casting across a cut - it throws 1/8-oz with aplomb, btw. Another friend uses this same rod for lures in the surf. The answer is in ballistics. For the same rotational velocity on the rod, every 20% increase in rod length doubles your cast.

The answer is because braid is so limp - it just doesn't have any stiffness. If you hold a length of mono/fluoro up, it points up by itself - braid won't do that. I know everybody loves Tatsu fluorocarbon, which is low memory (it doesn't coil badly), but it's not limp. I did the test holding up a piece of Tatsu and a piece of Blue Label leader of the same diameter - the Tatsu was stiffer, and the Blue Label was limper. Same 10" floppy ends, all were rubbed so they laid straight and parallel on the paper before I taped them. The curves you see now are from gravity with the paper taped on the end. Tatsu, Blue Label, Sufix 832, all the same diameter.

As I mentioned, the only time it made a difference for me was cranking a fly reel against a charging 30" Kenai rainbow - LHW came up short and cost me a fish. Otherwise, I'm so left/right brain, I don't really care, though my muscle memory is trained for rods to fly- and bait-cast LH, and cast a spinning rod RH.

Not only that, but any time you have plugs or any treble-hook-lures sharing a tackle box slot, they want to birds-nest all the hooks together.

I see a reverse cone in that line lay. I'm sure it will fish fine. Here's a good flat Shimano result this Tica hour-glassed with backing and braid working line, and it will fish ok but it got perfect line lay with Tatsu on the other spool - and this is what it was designed and rated for btw, a problem you can get with both hour-glassing and reverse cone line lay, is line digging in at the bottom of the spool with high drag load. If I'm loading a spool that shows this tendency, every fourth oscillation or so, I'll use the spool drag to add a wind at the spool bottom to help fill the gap. Neither Shimano I show in photos will ever have a problem with line dig.

late to the party, yes, you need ball bearing line roller with braid. But any shallow spool is intended for braid, if you notice JDM, they make a gang of spools for every home market reel - Shimano numbers their spool by braid size and capacity. You can't get this quality of line lay on a deep spool with backing, only on a shallow spool made for braid: this is a Shimano 1520 spool, 200 m of PE#1.5 Daiwa offers a range of spool depths for their higher-grade models through SLP Works, and if you look at a reel like Luvias, it was intended for braid from go.

The topic comes up on every forum. Fly tackle and traditional bait tackle, the idea was change hands, both cast and retrieve with dominant hand. If you go back 200 years to the origins of this tackle, people weren't in a hurry, and they also didn't cast a lot. (a lot of it had to do with 30-oz, 12-15' wood rods) With the newfangled spinning tackle, especially if you look at postwar Mitchell - a reel you couldn't manual-bail - also with prewar early spinning tackle with no form of anti-reverse - you can't let go of the handle without losing all your line. So the idea was full-time cast right and reel left to be able to retrieve as soon as possible. As far as personal preference, here's what I wrote about it last time it was polled on a different forum My daughter changes hands to both cast and wind with right hand on all tackle. Have to keep her spinning reels set up for RHW. (she's all grown now and wrestling for Lady Aggies) I was writing with both hands in 1st grade, and the teacher rubber-banded the pencil to my right. There's no rhyme or reason to my preferences and muscle memory, throw left, bat right, etc. Like most south paws, don't really have a dominant hand. So I grew up using all tackle the way it came off the shelf, casting and winding with either arm/hand. What most people don't get with fly casting until they begin using haul, is that your line hand is more important than your rod hand, because that's where you feel the rod load through the line, and where you modulate timing and power. Night fishing, vertical back-cast, change-direction cast - all need haul, and it should become natural in all casts. I did notice catching 30+" Kenai rainbows with guide's rod, I can't wind as fast with LH as RH. In general, my left arm is power, and my right hand is finesse.

you can also pick your spool bearings to make sure that it can cast the weight: (these are Hedgehog spool bearing grades)

Fair enough. Probably the best standing boat is Diablo Adios, and the smaller Chupacabra, both offered in ABS, which makes them light to single-hand. They paddle well, and also offer a skeg, which helps offset windcock. There was a very good episode of KT Diaries where they floated the Devils River on these boats, and fly fished standing for bass. Another really nice river boat I demo'd with Steve when he bought his Coosa was the KC-12, which is now the Kysek 12 (the cooler manufacturer bought the boat company). Also ABS, pretty versatile set-up, but the price has gone through the roof. Here's the photo I was looking for earlier with my buddy in the Coosa - you can see why it spins so well.

Three years ago, there was a mountain lion in and out of Freidrich Wilderness Park NW San Antonio. It was seen one morning before daybreak on IH-10. The park is loaded with both trails and a greenway, and people take their dogs to walk them there. They did shut down the trails. Another sighting in the town of Castroville, W of San Antonio 5 years earlier. The most recent was reported not far from me, and again, toward suburban San Antonio.

My buddy has the Coosa - tall freeboard, good storage, and the best-handling river SOT I have ever seen. (he's also boat-rich, with the Redfish, Kahuna, Revo 16, Outback, sold an X-Factor, and gave away an Emotion Fisherman to our buddy Lou) Right now, you have one of the most wind-slick boats ever made (also a good pedigree, designed by the same naval architect who designed Wilderness boats). Just above, you may notice my daughter in an orange Redfish 10, and my buddy's daughter in a red one. My daughter has beat me up at the coast chasing her Redfish up to 6 mi (at least until I got my Werner paddle) . My buddy made the mistake of taking his Coosa to the coast once, and the wind beat him to death. However, I think you might find the Coosa FD drive to move you more efficiently than paddling, and help you overcome wind issues with the tall freeboard and sit-high position. It doubles up with the same good river handling and a paddle. If pedal drive sounds inviting, I'd also recommend you compare the Coosa FD to the Hobie Compass, and decide which pedal drive fits your seating comfort better. The shorter Revo 13 isn't terribly stable, but has a big fan club for Mirage drive on salt and lake, combined with good river handling and paddle.

Others have posted in DC discussions that the DC improves reliability, but costs distance. I'll be in the camp that low loaded spool mass and good spool bearings to match your weight niche are the way to get max distance. Almost off topic, no LW baitcaster is in the league with my custom Abu CT's - they double the distance of any LW reel.

The only Lew's reel that has disappointed me is the Custom Inshore. Spool mass with the old centrifugal brake add-on is excessive, especially for the 1/8-oz niche where I wanted it, and I can't get flat line lay. Seems every other reel they offer at the same price point makes a better inshore reel. My Super Duty G is a workhorse in 1/4+-oz niche. The mag brake also gives a clean spool with no mass added for brake, and best reel I have for casting into the wind. My favorite double knobs are these EVA from SDS that replaced the paddles on my Tourney Pro

here's one I picked up years ago from the same vendor Marble's Woodsman A-2 (tool steel - it's freaking sharp)

Then there are 5-color braids offered by YGK and Duel They are marked every meter and change bulk color every 10 m. Can measure right off your spool should it float your boat.

the unshielded bearings will free-spin for well more than twice as long.

I always set with spring scale to 1/4 of weakest link - line, tippet, or rod max line rating. Heck, I have the spring scale. Not using it would be like having a beaver hat in the closet and out on a cold rainy day. If I need more on the water (say with a determined hook set), will thumb the spool (same with spinning reel), but can't really think of a time fish taking drag wasn't part of the fun.

I'm pretty proud of my clean Allbright knots, here attaching fluoro to small braid on new Lew's SP. The fluoro and knots fit flush in the spool groove.