bulldog1935

Same-same in a 6'7" bass rod. And I'm pretty sure the topic is BSF, not SFB. Since I'm here, the difference between para(bolic) and progressive rod tapers. Casting increasing weight, para taper loads more of the total rod length. They're characterized by a fast tip and increasing flex through the mid and butt, narrow lure weight range. Para taper is how rod designer gets maximum cast distance from the shortest rod, since they're loading more of the total rod length. (and note you can get the same line speed from a longer progressive rod) Progressive taper loads in a band moving progressively down the rod as you cast more weight. They're characterized by a short, soft tip, long fast mid, and powerful butt, wide lure weight range. Characteristically more forgiving and accurate. Hopefully you see the Perfect For BFS here. The two rod curves are both (Smith) 5'5" bass rods, the same light-end rating. The progressive rod on the curve caught the bass in my first post. In practice, no rod is completely para or progressive, but rod design mixes elements of both, so rods are really more-para or more-progressive. Nobody buys a rod to fish it full time at the high-lure-weight rating. I buy all my rods to fish at the low-end rating. E.g., this MH rod fishes 1/4 oz most of the year, and I'm happy to have the 1 oz capability for big winter topwaters - it shines on both ends and works both on a winter day - yeah, other than progressive, it's off topic - I don't match this rod with a BFS reel.

This is the erroneous equation that gets repeated on BR. BFS is a vehicle to fish threadline on baitcast tackle. If you read this article, the first and last points I got in were about threadline. https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/finesse-101.html Threadline is any line with diameter in the ballpark of #1 silk thread. The silk braid test is 4-lb. The diameter is also equivalent to 4-lb mono. Good fluoro is about 6-lb test here, and PE braids here range from 10-lb to 25-lb (yes, there's that much variance in PE braid). The range of BFS spools out there will give you working capacity from PE#0.4 (2-lb mono) to PE#2.5 (10-lb mono) What we call spinning reels were introduced in Britain in the 30s. They were all UL size by modern standards, but their work was very far from panfish on a short para UL rod. They were all called Threadline reels. CAP on the left was introduced in 1936 (1947 4th model w/ A/R - you might recognize the Mitchell 304 it became in 1954). The only example I have loaded with original threadline is the Allcock-Stanley on the right. From design to production, these reels were intended for Atlantic salmon on long progressive cane rods fishing 4-lb silk braid. What you gain with BFS is the ability to fish lines of comparable diameter on shallow lightweight spools. Yes, BFS gives you the ability to cast lighter lures farther (farther than equivalent spinning tackle if it's set up right). The rods that take advantage of BFS are progressive taper - extreme wide lure range on both ends. Very different from the short para rods with narrow lure range in the US postwar tradition (and micro rods really came on in the late 70s). Even 1 to 7 g in a 5' stream trout rod is a wide lure range - and baitfinesse rods go much further. here, 1.5 to 20 g in a 7'3" rod. What that high lure weight end tells you is this rod has the backbone to turn a big fish. In comparison, para UL rods flexing deep into the butt are made so you feel outclassed turning a bluegill. Does it cost an arm and a leg to try BFS? Well no, you may be able to find a $30 spool that swaps into a reel you already have - even your Black Max. Get some thin line, pick a decent ML rod that will cast light lures off its soft tip and knock your lights out.

My experience filling spools, Sufix 832 is always thicker than the reported diameter. (Japan X-braids tend to be thinner than reported diameter). The advantage is perfectly flat line lay and a perfectly full spool for max cast distance. (Deeper spools add up greater total line lay error as you fill them) This is 6-lb 832 on a C2000S(HG) spool - and the empty spool.

more mag brake - the backlash you're trying to prevent is mid-cast. Dial it down to find incipient backlash, then add 2 notches, and you'll get the balance between distance and reliable casts. Tension knob needs to be relaxed to incipient side play.

good place to start - if it makes a difference, there are a lot of good aftermarket handles out there.

What it sounds like you're describing is 1x handle rotation. Three possible things. A bad handle knob bushing can always show up at the same rotation spot because of the way your hand loads the handle (e.g., bad bicycle pedal always clicks when it's at the top). Second possibility is bad A/R roller bearing. If the position (phase) of the bump changes after you cast, it's in the main gear.

A/R roller bearings need Grease - oil can cause them to lock up. a drop of oil doesn't hurt them, in fact, the sleeve that rides on the rolling elements should get a drop of oil. But if there's nothing inside the roller bearing but low-viscosity oil, the surface tension can lock them so they don't release. The perfect viscosity to lubricate A/R roller bearings is about 30wt or Phil Tenacious.

umm C3000MHG is the only medium frame they offer in this model.

Very clearly, this is an Anti-BFS thread - the only BFS you talk about is what other people purchase. What you're trying to talk about is Bass Spin Finesse, and you should do that without talking about other people and BFS. I'm not saying I caught this bass because I was fishing BFS when my other two kayak buddies were fishing UL spinning tackle, but it worked out that way. No, Bait Finesse System is the reel modification - a combination of lightweight shallow spool, low inertia spool bearings, and threadline.

Compared to Blue, Gold is harder, thinner, and lower memory. Nothing wrong with Blue. I just recommended Gold to a friend asking for a braid-to-leader choice for salt.

Yes, we can call these ubiquitous patents "paradigm design changes" Ambassadeur freespool, centrifugal brake, and drag that slips main gear. Lew's Speed Spool "un-synchronizing" freespool from level wind. Most people here have never seen a reel without these. There was one older, Marhoff's level wind patent, 1909 - still on every baitcast reel made today (except, of course NLW). Patent rights expired in 1928, then Marhoff LW showed up on every reel made after, here a Meek 30 (very nice benchmade Marhoff copy made up to 1941). (I still say Daiwa MagForce patent will be just as ubiquitous)

Do not pass go. Here's the same spool in Twin Power with PE#1.2 braid, 25-lbs.

At that price, seems like a no-brainer. Which spool are you looking at?

Throwing up a show and tell from a friend's recent score. '78 4600C, near mint, and replaced a reel just like it that he grew up with. Good follow up discussion on his FFR thread. https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=76370&view=unread#p425207 From my tinkering, this age is the best low-inertia Ambassadeur configuration period, with simply a spool swap. I also referenced this priority list from Jun Sonada, rating the effectiveness of possible upgrades to all Ambassadeurs. https://japantackle.com/Tackle_topics/abu_tuneup.htm

if your presentation is more natural and you feel more subtle touch, it makes all the difference to both you and the fish. @Cbump TSL Grasswalker - neutral density subsurface dog-walker. Everybody is going to have their own sweet spot, but matching the rod length, action, and line pick-up affects how many fish buy into this lure. You can tune your personal sweet spot with handle length. This thread (and this topic in general) has more wrong answers than any other in the history of BR

A reel is a gearbox. IPT is constant. What the reel does is reduce torque into speed - you're the motor. But a longer handle has the effect of SLOWING the reel, not speeding it up. Because your hand is traveling farther to make one turn. You are increasing torque with a longer handle and can keep the reel turning against stronger fish. You also gain lure finesse. I know of people who put a long handle on a low-geared reel and couldn't keep up with charging fish. If you want the effect of speeding up the reel, you put on a SHORTER handle. The shorter handle winds faster because you use more wrist and less arm when you wind. (you may have to pump the rod to gain line against a strong fish) Selah.

Have you tried manual bail technique? Rather than casting out and closing the bail with crank-auto-bail close. Keep your free hand close to the spool, feather the line with your fingertips, very much like thumbing a baitcaster at end of cast. Use the same hand to close the bail manually. Turn slightly with the rod to take up slack before you retrieve. Any time I loan a spinning outfit to a friend, I go over this. They will end up with the line behind the spool. Then we'll go over it again, and this time it takes. Using proper manual bail technique, the spool can be completely full. Manual bail technique solves every complaint about spinning tackle - wind knots, runaway line in the wind, line twist.

Thanks for taking off the blinders (at least for most people). The USM dictated the China-made reels when they relegated round reels to cheap nostalgia niche. (the soapbox is worn through) I'm sure the China reels were never sold in Japan, UK and EU. As our friend pointed out previously, Japan remains the prime market for Abu round reels, closely followed by Europe and Britain. Noteworthy, Tica has made reels in Taiwan since 1960 beginning with offshore (currently make Daiwa that's not made on Japan bench), and 80s inflation forced the Japan bicycle industry to move to Taiwan - most everything mechanically techy today comes from Taiwan.

@GetFishorDieTryin Never heard of them, but just googled their website. On the TX coast, Waterloo rods are renowned, and my buddy Josh fishes nothing else. Come to think of it, this high-$ marina where I'm staged to launch below carries nothing else in their pro shop. I'm really pretty set on tackle, and don't expect to be in the market for awhile with a new truck payment.

@FryDog62 In that rod series, I have the 7'5" MH that's rated 1/4 to 1 oz, and it fishes both ends perfectly, I'm fishing 1/4 oz neutrual density TSL grasswalker to winter 7/8 oz Corkys and 1 oz topwaters. My other Valleyhill rod also fishes both ends of its rated range perfectly, so I would say it's probably perfect for 1/16 oz.

ps - just out of your price range with rod shipping added, here's an inch-longer Valleyhill bad boy. https://fishingshop.kiwi/VALLEY-HILL-Cyphlist-HRX-Pro-Spec-Hard-Rock-Edition-CPRC-72LS-RFF/ Note this vendor has always had the Valleyhill stock edge, and with discounted prices.

Except for USM 13Fishing Omen Green I don't think any of my JDM favorites have current stock. Valleyhill Odessa Abu Salty Stage XKRC Prototype.

@JNorman Since the day I first tried in the salt, I said it makes fly rod obsolete for everything but moving water.

Bait Finesse System, coined in print in 2000 by Mr. Motoyama, is the reel. The combination of shallow lightweight spool, low-inertia bearings, and threadline. Finesse rods are aimed at specific niches, stream to offshore, and everything in between. .

@Bass Rutten you're close - the origins of BFS for bass fishing in Japan were first for shore/bank fishing. How it's applied from a boat in a reservoir is one application. My applications on bass are wading headwaters creeks, and kayak in wide slow spots downriver. And I do a little of the reservoir from kayak stuff. (rivers and salt flats are my fishing love) The salt thing, I do shore, surf and kayak with different-length finesse rods.