bulldog1935

Sorry, haven't been playing on this forum page for awhile, too busy cleaning off my work plate and staging for the annual fall Redfish Rodeo (last week). Here are my best results. First day on Estes flats with Lou (only good weather day). Lou's thick trout, my redfish limit (only limit for the group/week) Fried Feast from our host Next day, on and off Dagger Flats before the front and monsoon rain hit Last day, Lighthouse Lakes before retreating in 30-kt wind (trip-fish for the group/week) a lot can happen in a minute seventeen Last nite shrimp boil And consider all the fish gravy - the point of this week was spending time with the brothers you choose - those you want be with when doing what you'd always rather be doing, like this.

I like racing out the old ones, this '77 4500C set up for fishing 1/8 to 1/2 oz. Full ball-bearing LW race, and Avail internal mag brake set up casting 3 g (to 90')

Centrifugal is for preventing start-up backlash with big weights. Linear mag is for preventing mid-cast (wind) backlash casting lighter weights. Primer on 3 types of backlash and 4 types of brakes.

@king fisher there are good tutorials on FFR Rod Tinkering page that will show you how to repair that with spigot ferrules.

Spigot ferrules on a J. Kennedy Fisher multipiece rod, which have always been considered the closest thing to a one-piece rod. Tip-over sleeve ferrule on a Phillipson - also copied by Orvis, and the style that first replaced metal ferrules. Fenwick's Ferrulite patent, considered the 2nd-deadest dead spot. The worst is butt-over-tip ferrule, which makes a hinge with the Deadest spot, and only found on Cheep rods.

Spigot ferrule has a continuous bulk modulus change through the joint. It's no accident multipiece rods choose the configuration. Sleeve ferrule, because of the larger O.D., has local higher MOI and a dead spot in the taper. I probably tackle this differently from most people, but my rods in bass finesse niches are 1-pc. or offset handle for round reel w/ 1-pc blade

The thing that helps most casting light lures is keeping loaded spool mass and inertia down. For deep spools, I back halfway with 20-lb mono (20-25 yds) and top with my thinner working line. no problem casting 1/8 oz on this reel.

Japan is the place to look for BFS parts for Ambassadeur, Avail, Kagawa, Valleyhill. Mike's Reel Repair in BC makes his own line of full-BB level wind, light alloy LW rider, and zirconia pawl for mid-frame Ambassadeur. There's also AMO on Express website, spools and alloy frame (BR won't link this website, but pm-me if you're looking for a BFS spool for C3). ereplacementparts sources all the parts that Abu still supports, and their customer service is tops. @redmeansdistortion and I have each built reels from scratch, entirely from parts. You can get a small-frame Ambassadeur down to 6 ounces with the light alloy parts, and slick enough to fish 1/16 oz. Left is a CIAR drive conversion using Avail parts. Right is '77 4500C with Mike's BB-LW parts and Avail internal mag brake (only needed on light end). UK and EU build the heavy duty aftermarket parts aimed at surf and tournament casting. RocketReelCo., Akios, Zzeta, and many small shops, Black Dog, ManFish. My customs, 5500CT on the left, 6500CS Rocket on right. The CS Rocket has full-BB LW, and a 5-mm-deep Avail spool for PE#2.5 braid (45-lb). SurfCastProShop in MD tries to source all the Zzeta parts, but lately, he's been OOS, waiting on the Italians to deliver. As far as the rabbit hole goes, I've filled every niche that I need in LP reels, and anything I add from here on will be round reels with offset-handle rods. _____________________________ Editing in this information. Yes, you can spend $1000 to get to a fully raced 6-oz CIAR - the biggest part of this is getting the reel frame and drive weight down (beyond the spool swap, about $200/oz). But every place you reduce spool/LW inertia, beginning with just the spool, improves cast distance and reliability. A spool swap is $40 - $90. A 5-mm-deep spool has working capacity for 12-lb mono, uses your same centrifugal, and changes the nature of the reel. Jun Sonada at JapanTackle is the smartest guy in the world at this stuff. Here's his link of Tackle Topics essays. In this chart, he prioritizes the possible cast inertia upgrades, and ranks their effectiveness. You can improve your reel step-by-step.

There are very nice stainless 6.3 gears machined in UK - yes, they're proud of them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126043533006 Another place to check for the brass 6.3 gears is Mike's Reel Repair in BC https://www.mikesreelrepair.com/6-3-1-high-speed-gears-for-abu-ultracast/ another finesse '77 4500C recently off my bench - don't take finesse the wrong way - this reel will fish 1/8 to 1+ oz. Even setting up with 8-lb YZH, I'm consistently getting 90' casts on 3-g JH. If you do the math, this compares to new LP reels.

Editing my friend here, because what he meant to say is USM and US bass fishers tend to lump BFS and UL together. Most bass rods are para taper - fast para taper - with fast tip, and flex in the mid and the butt. This is also true of traditional UL rods, though they have a very slow para taper. Para taper rods have a narrow lure weight range. Casting increasing weight, para loads more of the total rod length. Progressive taper loads in a band moving progressively down the rod length with increased casting weight. You can tell them by a wide, often extreme lure weight range. This is what makes a good finesse rod. The 3-power S-glass on the right is the best 1/8-oz skip-casting rod I've ever tried. One way they get here in graphite is with the newer Solid Tip rods (S in the Kurodai BF above), which also makes a great finesse rod choice.

The reel is BFS - Bait Finesse System is the combination of a shallow lightweight spool, low-inertia spool bearings, and threadline. From there, you match the rod to what you need to fish. The right rod can range from stream trout to shore micro-jigging. Here's a good reservoir bass example, basically a 3-power with a soft tip, though this rod is fast, and you really can't tell it's intended to fish 1/16 oz until you try it. This one for river kayak fishing is 5'6" 2-power S-glass, won't quite fish down to 1/16 oz, but has the butt power to keep a respectable largemouth from going under the boat. Inshore ML, where fishing more than 1/8 oz JH brings up grass instead of sow trout.

yes, we approve

You have stripped threads on that joint. Highest odds, the stripped threads are in the hex-shaft female, which is probably a softer metal than the stainless steel male threads on the handle cap. you can buy new hex-shaft handles (w/ screw cap) on both ebay and amazon, relatively inexpensive. (the one I linked on amazon is actually pretty nice, folds forward like a Daiwa whisker) The example I threw up in the top is the expensive kind, e.g., using an IOS hex shaft adapter to attach an SLP Works handle to a hex-shaft reel. Here's how that new Tica came out.

Spinning reel handles are 2 types - those using internal hex shafts always tighten CW. They join on both sides, and the hex shaft fits through the reel main shaft. Those that thread directly into the reel main shaft always tighten in the direction of winding the reel pick-up. They have two different thread diameters. Left-side wind has LH threads, right-side wind has RH threads.

The top one is going on a 5-day salt kayak redfish rodeo in 3 weeks. You can see my rod leash clip here. (swivel hook glides on trolley line)

I reached the point, think I've bought my last LP baitcaster (6) and already overstocked on spinning combos. But my bench is calling for more Ambassadeurs to tune, and I'll follow Yahoo in Japan for those very rare (about once/ or twice/yr) good buys on Isuzu. My favorite Ambassadeur bench result is on '77 4500C For the curious, the most valuable reel collection in the world is paring down and has a For-Sale list. The website is Ron Gast, recent past president of ORCA. https://luresnreels.com/fs/forsalecasting.html

Inshore, the only time we fish more than 3/8 oz is winter 7/8 oz corkys and 1 oz topwaters. Most often, we're fishing 1/4 oz and 1/8 oz - heavier lures haul up grass v. fish. While a BFS-mod reel gives into-next-week casts with 1/8 oz, basic linear mag brake like Lew's Super Duty also takes that light weight to town. You simply use more mag brake dialing out mid-cast backlash with light weights, and of course, dial-out end tension to zero. You can improve the spool mass/inertia by backing a bit more than halfway with heavy mono (20-lb) and using a light working line. I've mentioned before, in 1980, I was fishing weightless with Ambassadeur variant, and could blow spinning tackle out of the water, but this was done with no brakes, a fancy centrifugal cast and all about thumb.

On Sunday bike rides, my friend Tim is always playing modern cool jazz - I've asked him before to bring 60s R&B - likewise, Van seems to always be playing the Turtles. I asked them both last week - Hey, does that thing play Iggy Pop? 1969 punk

odds are, you're aiming your sidearm more up, while your overhead release is timed more horizontal. So your sidearm gives you a longer ballistic cast. Overhead works best as a 2-hand cast, consciously aiming up.

https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/finally-shimano-announced-new-20-twin-power-is-tough-style-spinning-reel/ yes, all 3000 sizes have the same drag

Hi friend, that's a jewel of a rod. I'm not sure you have a question there - go rip their lips. If you want to get down, instead of weighted flies, consider hunting a spare spool, and add a Teeny T200 spliced shooting head. I sight-fished this endemic bass 6' deep in a tannin plunge pool. If you want to find out more about your rod, visit this forum: https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/

US Customs queue is a USPS ISC Center issue - related to mail, and some of the ISC centers are notorious black holes. The couriers are also their own Customs brokers, and most shipments clear US Customs while they're still in the air. They simply get checked-off in passing by Customs when they arrive on the ground. If you get a delay from the couriers, they're usually holding to load up their flight to the next hub. Tracking may show Customs delay as an excuse for this choice the courier made.

Thanks @Hulkster The big spec (my lifetime 28" fish from this May) is on an Omen Green 7'1" ML - I've heard they're closing out and I say do not pass go if you have an ML casting niche. This is the least expensive rod I fish, and will just never be without one. A friend on TKF forum who moved to the area last year, spent the summer into the fall with good time in the flats and bays, and with no results. When he bought one of these on my lead and could fish 1/8 oz, he's been tearing them up ever since. Same redfish in the post you quoted, peeling drag (from my buddy Josh's camera), shows the long fast mid on this rod. And if you're asking about the 28" rainbow buck (which I think you were asking above) that was on a 1918 FE Thomas Special light-ferrule 4/5 wt.

naah, there's nothing brutal about kayak fishing - how you take care of your tackle is a choice. @MN Fisher yes, form follows function, and buying for function and build quality, you may get the form. Since you have it, you can match it.

these look right