bulldog1935

One thing everyone experiences with a spinning rod is getting the bail rotation (line roller to top center) for proper line-finger position and bail open, it's possible to bring the lure too close to the rod tip trying to get there. This is where partial bail open and let out one line loop sets up your cast. People winding lures and rigs into their rod tips and shattering rods is simply being too excited or too dense to be aware. I have these Tica reels with optional A/R and, again, the only time I use it is when I'm aligning the handle to put them in a reel case. Noteworthy, these are bulletproof loaners.

@GetFishorDieTryin it's mostly the sealed salt reels that have disposed of trip-bail-close already, e.g., Tsunami TSS, and it's a genuine liability in the surf where a mid-cast bail close is a disaster. The use of braid makes it a bad-habit wind-knot liability (loose braid behind the spool, etc). It took one generation for everybody to forget optional A/R switch ever existed on baitcaster. With the drive for light weight and improved reliability, I'll stand on my prediction. I replaced 3 bent A/R dogs on this reel. It gets pretty exciting landing a redfish without a free hand.

humor, of course, should be humorous, and everybody screams for giant drag, but most people don't use 2-lbs on their spinning reels (or even their bait reels). Quoting myself out of context this time, this was the correct answer since your free hand is so familiar with the bail, it's nothing to partially lift the bail and let out a single loop of line. @A-Jay The credit I get to take on Susie's two-50-yd-run 25" male schoolie was handing her a rig with a spring-balance-preset drag.

if you're using these reels correctly, you should be using manual bail technique. since your free hand is so familiar with the bail, it's nothing to partially lift the bail and let out a single loop of line. If your drag is set properly, pulling against the drag is incorrect, but if you know which direction the spool turns to pay, you can turn the spool by hand. The reels I own with optional A/R, the only time I use it is when putting a cover on the reel. btw, crank-auto-bail-close is a weight dinosaur that will go away in this generation. Nobody misses (or even remembers) optional A/R and bent A/R dogs on their baitcasters.

I've only used YoZuri braid for backing (offshore). Same company, their X-braid is sold as Duel X-wire, and is among the very best, with hard coating for baitcast reliability.

Well, there's the rub - I'll never be in the context of that video. Given our OP's synopsis, that he called Nasci a Power reel - die-cast zinc main gear riding in a plastic "bushing" that's part of the frame - that videographer is loopy. Won't let him control 10 s of my time.

@GetFishorDieTryin - all fair statements. If we want to limit to entry-level reels, TackleAdvisors admits he's a Daiwa fanboy, and like him, I would lean toward Daiwa entry level reels to get durability over in-store smoothness in Shimano's bottom-end reels (covered in his video I linked on the previous page). At the same time, TackleAdvisors dubbed the '19 Stradic introduction, "The Best $400 Reel You Can Buy" (comparing to Exist). If there's any way to swing a JDM Stradic, it would not be a mistake fishing through the decade. @garroyo130 I'll give you this - Twin Power XD is a different reel than Twin Power. XD has the forged-version of the lighter-weight sculpted composite rotor used on Vanquish above.

That looks like fun, and looks very nice with the round reel. At the other extreme, a few Japan vendors show current stock of Megabass Pagani Trad offset grips and rod blades for round reels. While I'm hooked on round reels, I like my straight cork offset grips. Another problem with pistol grips, they don't fit in kayak rod holders.

@WRB Except for good drag, all the baitcast patents we expect came from 1918. Baitcaster design is simple - spinning reel design is complicated. The most expensive reel ever made in current-day dollars was Hardy Altex, and owned the flip-bail patent from 1932 to 1954 (wartime patent rights extension, which most everyone ignored after 1950). it really was the Space Shuttle of fishing reels Postwar saw a manufacturing/marketing surge of cheap spinning reels aimed at common folks, along with development of better spinning reels. Stresses on the internal mechanism produced by long levers (spindle, rotor) were not understood in spinning reels before CAD in the last decade - everything before that was built by trial and mostly error. Spinning reels self-destructed from their own internal mechanisms. (The '90s is where spinning reels bottomed-out, trying to make them lighter weight, longer spindle, bigger rotor dia.) Even after a decade offshore, the best spinning reel made, Penn, didn't understand the contact loads on their gears. @garroyo130 - look again, you're mistaken. Twin Power is the bad-boy Power reel, and Vanquish is the All-Time Finesse reel. As far as Shimano using the same design across their full worm-gear line - yes, and the parts interchange, but they use Different parts (MOC) in the different roles. The cost difference is based on the MOC fabrication cost - e.g., it costs more to forge a Twin-Power rotor than cast a Stradic composite rotor, etc. And Stradic remains the all-time best-buy in a spinning reel.

@waymont Some see the forest, others climb the trees and fall out of the trees.

rather than generalize, cut to the specifics - For fishing braid, would want the SA/SHA model to get the braid spool. https://www.okumafishing.com/en/product/Ceymar-HD-Spinning-Reel.html 2500 and 3000 are the same frame - small frame is 1000. The weight is the same, the capacity is the same, must be spool diameter that makes the difference between 2500 and 3000. Throwing in the silk thread scale PE braid chart https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ I have a large-frame Shimano in especially good match with St. Croix Legend Glass MM. In lighter rods, I would go with medium frame. I save my small-frame Shimano for finesse, which includes light-in-hand ML rods.

also don't think all spinning reels are created equal.

most everyone handling spinning reels in the tackle store gets baffled by smoothness.

Cutesy answers are also incorrect. @T2DM nailed it with Shimano's help. For power, frame, spindle and rotor stiffness matter, especially for useful life and long-term line management. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/finally-shimano-announced-new-20-twin-power-is-tough-style-spinning-reel/ Check the rotor flexure animation in the 3rd image on the page. The life factor, which is Never off topic - I fished through my Penn 4400SS catching king mackerel off the S. Padre jetties in the '90s, and the result was reverse-cone line lay. For finesse, low drive inertia matters, so the reel doesn't keep winding itself. Shimano presentation did a good job dividing the two in their reel lines.

Different leagues, Vanquish is the all-time finesse reel by any maker (C2000S), and Twin Power is the bad-boy power reel (3000MHG).

My buddy lost his Twin Power/ Omen combo off the back of his kayak earlier in the month (it was in a rod holder, but out of sight and out of mind). Yesterday, I made him a pair of quick-release rod leashes with a gang of rod-end bosses.

Mag Z was made generally for fishing bigger weights. The mass of the inductor rotor is greater. SV uses a lighter inductor rotor and the next generation of stronger magnets, keeping top end lure weights, and making the light lure end wider. (Less mass = less inertia - less inertia needs less brake force for the same brake result). There's also a difference in the rate of the spring that returns the inductor rotor to linear mag. But because of the lower brake force at mid cast, Boost casts all weights farther. This spool works great casting 1/8 oz on 12-lb mono. I asked this question specifically to Jun Sonada a few years ago, and his reply was SV spools wouldn't have enough brake response when matched with older Mag Z magnets.

Before you send it back, think how you want to fish. It may be true the ML rod was listed improperly. That rod should fish a 1/10-oz loaded Ned and finesse spinnerbaits perfectly. Should also be versatile fishing a range of crankbaits. It probably won't cast a 1/15-oz Ned, and probably not weightless plastics. "BFS" gets used improperly - it's the reel, and too often gets jammed into a limited peg hole. The rod is Baitfinesse You can use BFS reel on many set ups, to take advantage of the threadline you have loaded.

Close, but not exactly true. The spool diameters will be the same (spool capacity dictated by spool depth), ...But... the reel pitch will match the frame - small frame, medium frame, large frame. C2500 will interchange spool with small frame reels - same pitch. 2500 will interchange spool with medium frame reels, etc. C3000 is med-frame with large frame dia

Actually, the rod will be faster, and will give away a little light end on the lure weight range. Shouldn't affect anything else.

Well, mine has a "few" upgrades - I bought Akios barstock frame on Yahoo, lighter and stiffer than brass, drops the spool 8 mm closer to the rod - also full-BB level-wind and Avail 5-mm spool https://noppin.com/yahoos/detail/d1099807623 I set this up for my surf-lure rod.

hmmm

@FrnkNsteen Sorry, I just gave away a Livre handle to my bud Tony when I lined his new Stradic last week. (Tony brought me a 6'er of Green Flash West Coast IPA) Also had one of these waiting for Tony, no words for how functional this Tsubaki hook and line keeper - rotating hook keeper, o-ring stack grabs line My small-frame Shimanos in salt finesse also have the MTCW mods, including dual-BB titanium line roller and all-metal drag cap with internal spring and amazing fine-adjusting drag range. Also lets you add finger drag. I had enough of this stuff stashed away, I traded my original Shimano handles and a few Livre knobs for a '77 Ambassadeur 4500C that was on my want list for BFS tinkering. kinda funny, swapping pm's with my friend and admin on FFR today about being "hosed" on a custom rod. I'll plead niche-specific function to go with my hose-down.

I'll say something about Tica. Try fishing your micro-frame reel 7 hard years in salt finesse, then see if there's enough of it left to give to a friend. It came with karma, including doubles with snook and redfish.

I'll bet you guys dollars to donuts, on any rod over 4 ounces, you can't tell the difference in 1 ounce of reel weight. and if the rod balances well, you can't tell the difference with 3 ounces more reel