MikeK

What are your top 3 for the following (Please copy and paste) Top 3 blanks: 1-MHX Elite Pro 2-Point Blank 3-NFC Top 3 Guides: 1-Fuji KR/KT 2-American Tackle TSH with matching runners Top 3 Grips: 1-Custom shaped EVA 2-Custom shaped cork 3-Carbon fiber Top 3 reel seats: 1-Fuji DPSM 2-Fuji ECSM 3-CRB Palm Swell Top 3 pieces of advice for anybody who builds or wants to start: 1-Take a class or 2-Find someone local you can learn from

Use some type of consistent measuring system to evaluate the rods you already have in terms of power and action. You can relate your likes and dislikes to those measurements then use those measurements to help select blanks. Internet search Common Cents System for info on one such method.

NFC blanks are good. Use their CATALOG (on-line) for a more complete and accurate listing of specifications. They sell only manufacturer direct and their periodic sales have very good prices. Do you understand rod action and power? Descriptive terms like fast and medium-light are pretty hard to compare. Describe your fishing style and ask for help with blank selection and a lot of the folks here will be able to make suggestions on specific blanks. No idea. As we say at work . . . because we've done it that way since the Apollo program

Usually there are a lot of good sale prices for Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

Cork? Hand sand lengthwise with sanding block. Easier if you can put on a mandrel and use a lathe to hold. EVA same but more effort. Won't have contours but will have offset bore. IMO preshaped cork grips end up looking pretty bad when you sand out the filler.

Mud Hole class in Taunton MA mid April https://mudhole.com/pages/rod-building-classes#calendar-910f384f-1a98-4d26-9bf2-096b5d34c818-event-dec58924-44ad-404c-bba6-a3ed0d1a38aa

I gave CCS power and action and for the broken rod. By definition since the rod is now 78" deflection will be to 26". I think I have another NP844 that I can measure at with its manufactured 7' length so deflection will be to 28". Tip angle will be higher than for the broken rod.

And designed to relate fly rods to fly lines. But it is another piece of information that can help select a blank to match an existing rod or fit a particular fishing technique if the info is available. To me the NP844 is a weird design to be called a popping rod because it is so fast. I think I have one in the rack that I can measure the full length tip angle on if you are interested. I agree with the generalization that removing so much tip will probably make it useless but the CCS measurement may disprove that. Mick, the TNF for the rod with a new tip added is 490.

Mick, the two descriptions I gave are the same rod. CCS is as useful for stuff like this as it is for selecting a blank. Without CCS measurements or direct experience with the rod the OP is talking about I'm not able to make any inferences about how it has changed or might be put to another use.

I'm gonna be a little contrary this morning and give two descriptions of a rod I have . . . 1. I broke off 5-3/4" from the tip of a 7' spinning rod, right at the second guide from the tip. If I install a new tip what would the rod be good for? 2. I have a 6' 6" spinning rod with no markings. The CCS IP is 664 grams and the CCS action angle is 73. What would the rod be good for?

Measure the CCS action and power of the broken rod and post up the numbers and someone may be able to make some recommendations.

Looks like Fuji KSKSS. Agree with spoonplugger1 . . .

SB720-4 CCS power 275g, action 70.

ACSM and ECSM are both designed to fit on the blank without arbors and leave a cutout for finger contact with the blank. ECSM fits my grip much better than ACSM but it's obviously personal preference. ECSM is about a tenth of an ounce lighter than ACSM.

Good reminder of the importance of ergonomics. Unfortunately it's hard to evaluate from a catalog or website picture. At least rod builders can fix the situation!

This is way easier to demonstrate than try to explain. In the time it took me to type this reply we could have worked in my shop and figured out the guide placement for your rod. If you are just planning to replace the guides with the same size and number, put the new ones where the old ones were. If you want to improve the rod, look at the Anglers Resource (Fuji distributor) website, decide what layout to use (NGC or KR), use their calculators for suggested sizes and positions, and use the 2-line static load test to figure out final positions.

anglersresource.net

ECSM 16 with KDPS 16 hood. Can be cut quite a bit shorter.

Fuji ECSM has ID sized in 1/2 mm increments to glue with blank exposed and no arbors. I don't know the others.

Don't know . . . ERN is for fly rods ?

X2

I have an 841-3 in the blank rack. Measured weight is 1.87 oz and CCS IP is 355 grams.

Don't change anything until you fish with it. To me the biggest detriment to having too long a handle is having the butt get caught in my clothing, especially when wearing a jacket.

How did you determine your guide spacing?

Unless they are loose they don't need epoxy adhesive. I leave mine alone but they look good coated. Mick posted a picture earlier in this thread showing a foregrip that has a coated winding check. Going back to the title, remember everything you've done added weight and "lightest" can be quantified with a scale.?