MikeK

Over epoxy or in place of epoxy?

Ouch! Heat isn't necessary for a good finish but it can help bubble release by lowering viscosity and removal of excess epoxy by causing it to sag/drip. With an alcohol lamp hold the flame close to the side of the work as it rotates a couple of times on the dryer. Learn to not need it.

I don't have any experience with 42wt fly rods ?

PB761XXHF Length: 7 ft 6 in Action Angle: F • 64-degrees (RDA) • 74-degrees (CCS) Power: XX Hvy / 1150gr (RDA) • 42.0 ERN (CCS) Weight: 3.35oz. Butt Dia: 15.92 mm Tip Size: 2.25mm (6.0) Lure Wt: 2 to 5oz Sugg Line Wt: 12 -20 mono 20 – 60lb braid I don't know how an ERN number is measured but RDA power x 1.3 will get you pretty close to CCS IP Sure looks like a beast!

Try two thin coats of finish. First coat applied quickly and brushed into threads so you can still see thread texture. Let cure long enough to be able to shave off any thread stickups. Second coat applied quickly to flow out and completely cover thread texture then just let it level itself. To complicate your question about blank prices, it costs St. Croix way less than $60 to produce that blank for the $160 rod.

What specific problems are you having with finish?

I've never had problems with any 5 minute epoxy packaged as tandem syringes that get pushed together and mixed after dispensing per manufacturers instructions.

Ouch! Had a friend with a similar situation this summer. He contacted the vendor and they contacted Batson and arranged a warranty replacement. Got replacement through vendor very quickly.

Just numbers from blanks I've measured.

PB661MLXF 478g ccs power, same action as PB691MLXF.

CCS Power SB822.5 438g PB691MLXF 504g ETES610MXF 248g ETES is slowest action of the three PB691MXF 575g

Using mostly ProWrap size B. I seem to use a lot of 510 Sage or 513 Guacamole with metallic silver, gold, or lime green for trim.

What size reel and line? Consider using whatever method you choose for the first guide, then moving it towards the reel a couple of inches. Put the second reduction guide +7 inches and third +6 inches then runners equally spaced to tip. Static test and cast and move as needed.

My process . . . apply finish to completely cover wrap get all wraps done quickly use warming heat to allow excess to sag for removal (optional) don't mess with finish once applied allow to turn until remainder in dish is almost tack free

Don't know your exact setup or routine . . . I have three different wrappers and all apply the tension to the thread spool and then run the thread through a ring on the end of a flexible tension rod. Lets me gauge the tension, keep tension on the wrap even with hands removed, and backup a few turns if needed. I start a wrap with good tension, pack or move the initial wraps almost none especially up the blank, and make about a dozen wraps over the tag end before cutting the tag.

CCS IP 340 grams, AA 63, TNF 390. Hopefully Mick will chime in here on uses. I like it for small spinnerbaits worked slow and lipless crankbaits like small rattle traps.

Thought driving factor was looks?

What color thread you gonna use?

ProKote high build resin is very thick and difficult to dispense with syringes. I use ProKote regular. That's what you'll get with the MudHole kit. Try it before you buy more.

Take your class to see what goes on then ask the instructors. Generally Mud Hole has sales around holidays and Labor Day is coming up.

In the class you get the reamers for the rod you make, not a full set. Yeah Huntsville to Mobile is a long haul!

In the class you'll build a decent rod, learn a process that will apply to all types of rods, and get the tools and equipment (except a reamer assortment) to build more. You can also get a ton of information through questions to the instructors. There is an in person class in Mobile in August too.

I'd prefer something around 550-600 for those lures like the MHX SJ842 but it is not moderate. From my measurements . . . AT842-3 (several years old) IP 760 No idea about your measurement source for power for the AT844-3 but if it's correct it would be way too powerful for me.

MB704HM and MB705HM as overall versatile bass built as casting rods. SB683 X-ray built as spinning for unweighted plastics both FW and open SW. MB665 IM built as spinning for 1/4oz jigs in SW.

Specs cited are manufacturer. I posted them in response that tip and butt diameters were a good way to distinguish. I don't have weights and agree that is important but a measuring system like Micks CCS is more useful to me than any manufacturers system even if I can decode it.