MikeK

For rod in picture remove fighting butt, remove damaged rear grip, clean residue off blank, and replace grips from butt. For other rod you may be able to repair with Winn Tape wrap, otherwise replace grip. Plenty of experience here with the step-by-step details to help you through the process.

Looks clean! Wasn't thinking about up-locking hidden thread hood when you were asking about winding checks in split grip area.

Look at the silicon rubber colored winding checks from Mud Hole. My personal preferences for that reel seat are that I don't like the way it feels in my hand and I don't like the way it looks without the insert. With the insert it is definitely heavier than a Fuji DPSM17 and without the insert it may be slightly heavier. Heavier helps make the finished rod a little less tip heavy (neat how all this interacts!). That's why we build custom!

That reel seat leaves the blank exposed? For best appearance you may want to figure out the size and position of your poly arbors and glue them on the blank cleaning up the inside edge of each one well enough so glue doesn't show. Don't scuff the blank between the arbors. If you use Fast Set Gel Epoxy you should be able to glue the reel seat about 1 hour after the arbors. You then will still probably need to do some inside cleanup with cotton swabs after the reel seat is glued. Hope that makes sense! What are the pieces of the fighting butt?

Hand ream and go slow. Remember several inches of a Point Blank butt is straight (not tapered).

My point was more about picking a blank for a specific purpose. How does the OP know what CCS power to look for in a blank? Start with some measurements on existing equipment and relate it to fishing experience. Then get info from builders like you who have measurements on a wide range of blank models, not just the few with manufacturer provided info.

I've enjoyed following this thread but buying a blank based on manufacturer ratings is a crap shoot. Manufacturer blank weights are pretty accurate so getting the lightest blank is not that hard. Action and power are all over the place and are way more important than weight for the ultimate use of the rod. Unless you can handle a blank before buying (I'm about 7 miles from Mud Hole ?) you need to use something like CCS or maybe the Mud Hole Deflection chart to identify what you are looking for then poll other builders to get recommendations.

Like for casting rods but not for spinning rods because I hold them differently for 2-handed casting.

Where's your pull loop?

The reamer sets that can be chucked into a drill are useful if you are limited to preshaped grips.

Take a look at the Mud Hole virtual classes. You'll build a rod to learn the basic process and you'll get a decent hand wrapper, rod dryer, and small supply of essential materials.

It seems to be a common belief among rod builders that weight added to a blank lowers sensitivity and the effect is more pronounced the closer the weight is to the tip. If this is correct, the process that Mick has developed is the only simple measurement I've seen described that correlates to that.

I use P-Line CXX 6# copolymer with DVTs 20H, 10H, 5.5M setup and it works very well. It is a bit limper than a lot of the fluorocarbon. Sunline FC (Sniper I think) is comparable but so much more expensive.

The grips are 1-1/2" long which is comfortable for the way I hold a spinning reel with stem behind ring finger. The CFX grips from Mud Hole are textured which is also fine with me. I haven't used any other brands.

Shimano Vanford is a pretty light reel. Fuji DPSM 17 with a short CFX carbon fiber front/rear grips is a little lighter than Fuji VSS with either cork or EVA. For the guide train Sea Guide Titanium/Si Nitride reduction guides with Fuji Torzite runners is the lightest overall combination. What you proposed is a quality setup but don't be so dismissive of folks who answer the actual question. ?

Average of 15 blanks 7' or under with this power range = 2.00 oz Lightest 7' I've measured MHX NMB843 1.75 oz, 592 IP Lightest overall I've measured MHX MB752XF 1.64 oz, 575 IP, 6' 3"

What would you consider the IP range that matches the OP techniques?

Yes, shortest thread wraps possible with size A thread. A thin coat of permagloss is more durable than a single thin coat of epoxy but both will still show the thread texture rather than be smooth.

Mick, this is where power measurements like CCS IP shine. I'm not familiar with the techniques the OP describes. What would be the power range he is looking for?

These sizes are for SSR guides. M is match style, Y is typical NGC which makes nice transition, and R are single footy fly style.

Not sure what sizes are in the guide set. For a 2500 size reel look for 20M, 10M, 6Y, multiple 5R to the tip. I prefer a ceramic ring tip over the SSR.

I like to be able to do one coat of finish for repairs so I go with high build even if it is lazy.

Look at Fuji ECSM exposed blank reel seats. They need to be sized to fit the blank and come in 1/2 mm increment sizes. Measure the blank OD where you want the reel seat to be to get the correct size.

x2 . .. material got sticky after a few months and came off when I tried to clean.

Currently all MHX blanks are manufactured in China.