casts_by_fly

surely he meant jeans pocket.

I bet the charger is common negative to the boat. Instead of running wire from all points back to the battery it’s cheaper to connect all negative terminals to the metal boat and then the boat to the battery. However if you’re touching the boat while you turn power on to something, it might be easier for the charge to exit through you then going back to the battery.

yep. iPhone does it so you have a personalized map of where you took your photos. In photos you can look at a map view.

carry two next time and you’ve got chopsticks.

For a spinning or casting reel?

the nasty green sounds like an algal bloom (HAB). We get it here too in places. If I have to fish a lake with it, black and blue seems to be the ticket. this was some funky water.

Definitely depends on the specific boat, but 7 in the back is a lot if the boat isn’t designed for it. 4 is about the limit for a lot of setups. You probably won’t have all 7 on deck and ready to go. If it’s a frog and punch day the your spinning rods and light gear aren’t going to play and vice versa. In that case, put the others in the front rod locker and keep them out of the way.

same here. I have 10lb 832 on one. It’s still pushing the limits though as the OP is seeing. Not all reels will handle it.

A phone has a GPS track on you. Most phones have location services enabled for photos. It will put the information in the meta data for the phone (EXIF data) if it is enabled. However- if the photo is altered in another program, that program might strip EXIF data from photos. The app I use to resize on my ipad doesn't carry over EXIF data I don't think. Not that I care about others seeing that data, I just think its a paid feature for that app and I'm cheap. So that's super cool. I've been fully apple since 2007 (aside from my work computer) and I've never seen this. thank you!

I'll second that. On 50 lb braid I've pulled up full trees and some heavy crap when I've hung up I've never bent one and I've never broken 50 lb braid. I've tipped the kayak by about 15 degrees though while pulling.

Personally, I'd just do this and be done with it. That's plenty of capacity based on what you're seeing/using. You're going to spend $25 a battery for 8 cheap ah lead acid and you'll be $43 for duracells. By the time you buy 3, you're $75-$125. For $160 you can get the battery plus the charger. It will fit in your box if you need to keep using it. And if you really need to in the future you can add another of the same for 40 AH capacity. https://ampedoutdoors.com/collections/lifepo4-battery/products/20ah-lithium-battery-lifepo4?variant=43383602872551

I don't fish tournaments, but I do fish that style. I find that 5 is usually enough for me in practice, even if I think I want more in planning. I don't usually carry a spinning rod and that's what my 6th should be. Sometimes I'll throw it in the rear well (two piece rod) if I think I might use it. Usually wanting extra rods means I don't know what I'll be fishing as well as I should so I want to carry extra rods. This time of year I can be pretty confident that I'm throwing a crankbait, a lipless, a chatterbait, a heavy spinnerbait, and some form of jig/plastic. And in fact those are the rods rigged right now to fish tomorrow. Its still just a bit cold for topwaters here, swim jigs turn on when the grass is more grown, and some more specialist things aren't in play yet. Come May and June anything is on the table and I'd carry 12 rods at times.

It will vary by reel and by manufacturer so you're not going to get a clear cut answer. That said, 8 lb is light for a baitcaster so you're pushing the limits a bit to start with. If you're going to keep on with the 8 lb you're going to have to learn to deal with it or swap back to a shimano.

TB and bankc covered it pretty well. There is a chance you've burned them out by hooking up different batteries together. if you have one bad battery in the batch the other batteries will be continually 'charging' it and overworking those batteries. The voltage at the multimeter just means that what lead is in there is showing the right voltage. That's just chemistry and if you had an ounce of lead in the same medium it would show that voltage. The ability to deliver current is a function of how much good lead is there. You'll hear about lead plates in batteries. In side a lead acid battery there are sheets of lead separated by a medium (usually straight sulfuric acid). For the same weight of lead, you can use thick sheets which will provide power over a longer time (the lead is actually removed from the sheet and put into the solution as you use the battery) or you can use thin sheets and more of them. The former is a deep cycle, the latter is a cranking battery. The risk is when you deplete the lead sheets too far (run it down too much in a day) the sheets are not able to reform when you put a charger on them. This is battery degradation. Eventually the depleted sheets will get covered in the sulfate ions and the lead in solution will drop out as lead sulfate (I think that's the right chemistry). At that point its very hard to separate them and get the lead back on the plates. Some chargers have 'repair' mode which is a higher than usual voltage hit to the battery to try and separate the lead sulfate. if your charger has that mode then you can try that across all three batteries. if it works, great. Ultimately though, I think you're going to need to pick up more and/or better batteries for your use. If you need the power of three 8 ah then you'll be a lot better off long term to get a single 20-25ah batter. If you can swing a 15-20 ah lithium all the better.

I use the G-power flip and punch hook from gamakatsu in a 4/0 for what you're talking about. Its a little too big for a bandito bug but I don't like them and won't fish them after this pack is gone. For a rage bug its perfect. I also picked up some sixth sense hooks that were marked down on a prior order and they look good also. The 5/0 sixth sense is about the same size as the g-power 4/0.

I base which rods come in the boat based on which lake and what time of year. I don't normally bring any rods that are single purpose rods. In march/April/May I will bring a dedicated crankbait/lipless rod (my trapcaster) because I know I will have either a lipless or a DT6 type on all day regardless of the lake I'm on. It will go down to a DT4, OG tiny, or a 1/4 oz RES as needed and I can also throw a small keitech on it pretty well (1/8 oz head plus 3.3 SIF). I have a dozen or so rods that I'll pick a subset from and the trapcaster comes for these three months and then sits at home. My head turner comes on every trip as its my primary rod for vibrating jigs, spinnerbaits to a half ounce, and swim jigs. It will throw a half ounce walking bait just fine (though I have other preferences for that) and in heavy cover its a good squarebill rod. Other rods are similar in that they aren't 1-trick ponies. Even my frog rod doubles as my heavy spinnerbait/chatterbait rod (with a change in line when frog season comes around and the grass gets thick). In your case it sounds like you've sussed it out. See how that set plays for you and then go from there.

We have a bunch of alewife lakes. This is what they look like.

Depends on the action you prefer on them all. I tend to prefer a little faster side of things, so I lean mf for crank baits and fast for bladed baits. But, I do occasionally drop to a mf for bladed baits for the same reason as you in that I only carry 5 in the kayak. depending on how heavy you’re throwing on the blade baits and how deep on the cranks, the falcon expert Hudson special is a good choice. 7’3” medium heavy moderate fast. I’d maybe even class it on the slower side of moderate fast but definitely not a true moderate action. I use mine as a catch all rod a lot. In the spring I’ll throw crank baits on it like dt6/10, lipless, etc. Soon after that it will start with either a buzz bait or plopper for most of the summer, but if I find on the day I want to throw a bigger crank bait it still gets it (up to a dt20). Great treble hook moving baits rod. It’s also a decent chatter bait rod if you want the moderate fast side of things. It is great for 3/8 plus trailer. It’s is a little under powered for a full 1/2 oz plus zako (total bait weight just under an ounce). It’s also too heavy to throw dt4 or small bombers all day. With a good reel you’d be okay in a pinch, but not my preference. if you’re sticking to 1/2 oz bladed baits or bigger and throwing a dt10 or bigger then the falcon bucoo sr 7’ 6 power is a surprisingly good rod. It’s called the lizard dragger 1. It’s a speck more power than the Hudson and a touch faster, but not much. It will absolutely fling a 1/2 oz chatter bait with a zako. That was my standard setup for that rod when I carried it all the time. It would then double duty for big crank baits as needed.

actually, battery powered vehicles is a lot simpler topic in this regard. You’re not choosing the battery for the vehicle. You aren’t determining what capacity of battery will give you what range. The vehicle has a range and it either works for you or it doesn’t. In this case, there are multiple options depending how you fish and what you want to spend. You can pick a bigger battery, you can add another in parallel, etc. but that’s not the topic of this thread.

Also keep in mind that a pier might be 30’ off the water so you need some way to get the fish up. Some use a basket net. Some a flying gaff hook. Some just use the rod to pull up little ones. surf rods can be a heavy bass rod but it could also be an 8 and bait size rod which is a lot more rod. and inshore rods are often more like a longer and softer bass rod. long story short, know what you want to do with each and where any limitations are for the specific rod you’re looking at.

this is basically where I settled as well. I don’t know if he can use a 12v setup, but based on all of the info I’d get a pair of either 60 or 80 ah lithiums. I also did the spare battery thing, though what I actually did was up spec my fish finder battery to a 30 ah for a just in case scenario. I actually had to use it this year first trip because I don’t think I charged my batteries fully ahead of time.

I run amped batteries. They have a decent faq page you can start with. https://ampedoutdoors.com/pages/faq The main thing is understanding just how much power you’re drawing. If you’re pulling 20 amps at 24V, that’s a lot of capacity needed if you’re not recharging on the water. You’d get about 2 hours of that draw out of a 50ah 24v lithium. You will be able to take a lithium down to 10%, maybe more, maybe less depending on the BMS. For planning a setup I would plan to 20% so you always have a little reserve left. Of course if you want to go bigger you can, the only difference is money. That said, I don’t think you’re drawing 20 amps the full time. I don’t know which motor you have so I’ll use mine as an example. I’m in an autopilot kayak, 42 lb thrust 12v with spot lock. I’m pulling 32A on max setting to hit right about 4 mph. That would translate to 16A on a 24V setup. That’s my transit speed and power. Actual fishing current draw is negligible. With a 10 mph wind and chop I’ll be on a setting 2, maybe 3 which is drawing low single digit amps. If there is negligible wind I don’t even factor the fishing current draw into my day. It just how far I want to run. I have an 80 ah and I’ve never burned it out in a day. I’ve taken it down to 9 or 12% (I forget which) once when I fished from 4am to 4pm on the big lake on a windy day. I think I covered 15 miles that day. You can save battery by turning down the motor one or two notches. If I want max range, I can run it on 8 instead of 10 and it draws 25% less power but you only lose about 10% speed. you can Google the voltage curves for lithium vs lead acid. Long story short, they will output at 12.5-13V from full to about 10% (or wherever the bms is set) and then shut off. Lead acid will start at 12.7 I think it is and then steadily drop over use. That means lithium will feel like a freshly charged lead battery all day whereas the lead will steadily slow down. plenty of chargers available for 12v but just get a noco genius. Great chargers. Work for any battery. Small footprint. If you go a 24v battery then fewer options. Amped includes the charger with the battery. Some batteries have built in Bluetooth monitors. Some have digital displays. You can add a shunt style meter to lithiums for cheap. That’s what I have on mine and it will show voltage, capacity (absolute a percentage left) and current draw. I wouldn’t leave home without it.

hard to estimate cca on a run down battery but a couple online charts are showing about 100 cca per 10 ah. That’s for capacity, not run down, but using that estimate you’d have dropped about 20 ah in 3 hours which would be about 200 cca. If that was the deka group 27 cranking battery, you started with 650 cca. That would have put you around 450 cranking amps. however, the drop in cca with ah estimate would be based on the battery at full charge voltage. Your voltage would have been lower too so I’m guessing it might be even lower than that. Either way, the group 27 clearly wasn’t enough. The oddesy you bought is 925, so you have and extra 300 cca to work with. since you already own both, if you can fit it I would keep the 27 as the cranking battery only and use the 31 as the house battery.

A helix 9, 8, and 360 is going to draw about 6amps on full power. A group 27 is going to be around 70 Ah. You’ll take the battery from full to half in about 7 hours. The question becomes how many cranking amps will your battery deliver at half charge. also, how full was the battery when you started? Did you charge it fully before starting the day or are you relying on the motor? best course would be to keep the group 31 as a house battery and pick up a group 24 cranking battery.

You don’t say where you are, but at that temp the fish are a bit slow regardless of location. The answer is ‘yes, go fishing’. This time of year, the sun is going to start warming things quickly as it gets more direct. I’d look for shallow fish that get warmed up and active. If no love I’d fish the deeper edges near shallow water.